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What method did you use when connecting the stock sub to your new HU? Which HU do you have?
I asked this because there are a few different ways to do it. Did you run it directly off the rear channels from your head unit or did you wire in a separate amp to drive it? Either way isn't terribly difficult, but you just have to be careful how much power you send to the stock sub.
 

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Hey guys, new to the site! Just picked up a 2014 SE and absolutely LOVE it!! Is this upgrade compatible with the 2014 SE speakers?

Are these the tweeters that are being referenced and will work nicely?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Infinity-Reference-1031T-1-Inch-Dome-Car-Stereo-Tweeters-300-Watts-Pair-/291170775419?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item43cb21717b

Also, I'm not in anyway mechanically inclined - is this something I can tackle myself? Not sure after reading through the first couple pages. Any specific tools or parts (connectors) I'll need for this job? Any links are appreciated! Thx!!
 

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My head unit is JVC KW-AV70BT. I have my sub separate using the amp and settings suggested:
"Here is what I chose:
Boss Audio R1100M Mosfet Monoblock Power Amplifier, about $55

This solution seems to be working great. The only caution is that the amplifier has enough power to blow out the factory sub if you get crazy, so keep the level on the amplifier as low as possible.

I'm using the Front L/R and Rear L/R amps in my Pioneer AVH-X5600BHS head unit driving the factory speakers (i.e. not a lot of power, no interest in extreme volume). So I was able to set the sub amp level quite low and still get a good balanced frequency response (slight bass boost, which is what I wanted), and the factory sub driver seems to be handling it fine.For reference, here are the settings that seemed to work best:
- Amp set for low pass, not full range.
- Sensitivity on 100mV-2V, not 2-8V.
- Low Pass frequency on maximum (160Hz), but head unit set for 80 Hz Low Pass Filter on Sub and 80 Hz High Pass Filter on door speakers.
- Bass boost Off (0), not +18dB.
- Level set about 20% up from Minimum; i.e. a lot closer to Min than Max.

With those settings, I get great bass response (well, within the capabilities of the factory sub driver) with the head unit EQ set on 0 for bass."
 

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Hey guys, new to the site! Just picked up a 2014 SE and absolutely LOVE it!! Is this upgrade compatible with the 2014 SE speakers?

Are these the tweeters that are being referenced and will work nicely?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Infinity-Reference-1031T-1-Inch-Dome-Car-Stereo-Tweeters-300-Watts-Pair-/291170775419?pt=Car_Speakers&hash=item43cb21717b

Also, I'm not in anyway mechanically inclined - is this something I can tackle myself? Not sure after reading through the first couple pages. Any specific tools or parts (connectors) I'll need for this job? Any links are appreciated! Thx!!
Very easy mod. :act035: I would suggest using posi-tap wire connectors for easy install.
 

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My head unit is JVC KW-AV70BT. I have my sub separate using the amp and settings suggested:
"Here is what I chose:
Boss Audio R1100M Mosfet Monoblock Power Amplifier, about $55

This solution seems to be working great. The only caution is that the amplifier has enough power to blow out the factory sub if you get crazy, so keep the level on the amplifier as low as possible.

I'm using the Front L/R and Rear L/R amps in my Pioneer AVH-X5600BHS head unit driving the factory speakers (i.e. not a lot of power, no interest in extreme volume). So I was able to set the sub amp level quite low and still get a good balanced frequency response (slight bass boost, which is what I wanted), and the factory sub driver seems to be handling it fine.For reference, here are the settings that seemed to work best:
- Amp set for low pass, not full range.
- Sensitivity on 100mV-2V, not 2-8V.
- Low Pass frequency on maximum (160Hz), but head unit set for 80 Hz Low Pass Filter on Sub and 80 Hz High Pass Filter on door speakers.
- Bass boost Off (0), not +18dB.
- Level set about 20% up from Minimum; i.e. a lot closer to Min than Max.

With those settings, I get great bass response (well, within the capabilities of the factory sub driver) with the head unit EQ set on 0 for bass."
That sounds great. I didn't pick up on the fact that the thread you referenced was YOUR truck. My apologies. There's no real reason to keep your sub low pass at 160 if you have your HU set to 80. Then again, it's really not going to hurt anything. If anything, it would give you the ability to bump that frequency to 100 or 120 if you wanted to. With the stock sub being an 8" driver, it could likely play anything from 200 down rather easily. You may want to try it at 100 (and set the high pass to 100 to match) because your door speakers likely won't produce the lower frequencies very well without an amp. If it suits you, leave it alone, but it never hurts to play around a bit. Good work!
 

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Discussion Starter #748
Posi connectors work well. They can be very expensive too. Another option, Solid copper wire, maybe gauge 20-22, It will go in the factory connector and stay tight in place, and can be secured with good high temperature electrical tape, I'd use 3m scotch 88.

And I would connect the other end first after I verify the solid wire fits in the connector.
 

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Thank you LaserGuy for writing this up and everybody that have contributed to this mod!

Just for the fun of it I tried a completely different set of tweeters, Kicker KST25. They are too big to fit in the same hole as the stock tweeters. So I flush mounted them by using a 1-3/4" hole saw and dremel the mounting nut which was kinda wide.

Like others have mentioned it does sound much better. Even appears to be more bass from my coaxial front door speakers. Perhaps that's due to the better tweeter crossover or the wider sound spectrum.

IMG_20140731_075039.jpg

IMG_20140731_080618.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #750
It looks good, it matches.

I am sure it sounds better too, having the tweeters under the grill restricts/blocks some sound even when it is a huge improvement over the factory tweeters.
 

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That's exactly what I did with mine. They're 3/4" soft silk dome tweeters that were too large to fit the way the stock ones do. The trim ring isn't quite as big as those, but they fit nicely like that. They're even on a swivel, so I can aim them in whichever direction I choose.
 

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I just bought the Infinity drivers. Effect was immediate. I chose to mount the speakers on the directional mount:





:act035:
 

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I just bought the Infinity 1031T tweeters and installed in my 07 RTX with the OEM HU. The speakers have a ton of "static" sound coming from them. I can even turn the volume down to "0", and there is no static coming from my door speakers but static coming from the Infinity tweets?????? I turned the treble down but the static is still present. What do you think is causing this?
 

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Are you sure you have the crossover cap still in series with one lead? Note the factory tweet has a tiny crossover cap wired in the housing. I replaced with a larger one but you can use the same one.
 

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Man, that is really helpful. I'm always thankful for someone else tearing into stuff before I do. I have messed up in the past on several installs, having this information is priceless.

thank you again.........
Robert
 

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