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Many thanks Heli.
That makes a lot of sense.
Question.
I know tweeters have a very narrow angle of dispersion but I wonder of cutting out the stock holder ring and gluing the adaptor ring straight to the grill would be a better solution.
Had considered it....especially as you noted........replacements are quite cheap?
Aloha.
 

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Hey everyone!
I know this thread is old, but its a great thread!

I've owned my RTL less than 2 weeks and this was one of the easiest and cheapest upgrades/modification I found to use.
When I first bought the truck I kind of felt the stereo sounded muffled. So when I saw people raving about the tweeter difference I gave it a shot.
It definitely wasn't 15 minutes for me, but still do able within an hour. Takes so long because of the confined space against the windshield.

Anyway, I decided to record the differences to compare.
I did a PRE recording, with the stock stereo, switching through channels to get a mix of music.
Then a MID recording - with driver side tweeter installed.
Then a POST recording - both tweeters installed and all completed.

A few things to note: On the POST, I messed with the sound levels still trying to find that sweet spot. I think the the MID recording does the best of showing the differences.
Second note, is I recorded with my cell phone (Note 4) and its known to lower the bass when recording. So there are times when the bass sound hollow or off - that's completely my phone, not the truck.

I bought the Cadence tweeters (http://smile.amazon.com/Cadence-Acoustics-ZRS75T-1-Inch-Tweeter/dp/B003PJ6TCQ?sa-no-redirect=1)


So here they are:

PRE TWEETER SOUND CHECK
https://youtu.be/Uc09E0DK3mk

MID TWEETER UPGRADE SOUND CHECK
https://youtu.be/r7pQz9noS8I

POST TWEETER SOUND CHECK
https://youtu.be/2OQyYiNE0lk

Hope that helps anyone on the fence about the upgrade and thanks to laserguy for the thread and everyone else who gave advice and suggestions!
 

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Great work, Frankie. You have the same truck I do - 07 Nimbus Grey RTL non nav. I never did the tweeter upgrade as I just went for a complete audio upgrade from the beginning. Nonetheless, I can pick up the difference in your recordings for sure. The highs are certainly brighter and bring out the highs so much better. The bass of the stock RL system can be very muddy and the terrible highs of the stock tweeters only make it worse. This at least makes the OEM audio usable and can be made satisfactory for most owners.
 

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Nice Idea Frankie ! (audio sampling)

If you decide to do this kind of thing again, can I recommend you use a CD (or MP3 or ??) so that you can use the same audio track from one scenario to the other (start up same song from same place each time). Might make comparison a bit more straight forward.

Glad you're new set up works well! :)
 

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Hey everyone!
I know this thread is old, but its a great thread!

I've owned my RTL less than 2 weeks and this was one of the easiest and cheapest upgrades/modification I found to use.
When I first bought the truck I kind of felt the stereo sounded muffled. So when I saw people raving about the tweeter difference I gave it a shot.
It definitely wasn't 15 minutes for me, but still do able within an hour. Takes so long because of the confined space against the windshield.

Anyway, I decided to record the differences to compare.
I did a PRE recording, with the stock stereo, switching through channels to get a mix of music.
Then a MID recording - with driver side tweeter installed.
Then a POST recording - both tweeters installed and all completed.

A few things to note: On the POST, I messed with the sound levels still trying to find that sweet spot. I think the the MID recording does the best of showing the differences.
Second note, is I recorded with my cell phone (Note 4) and its known to lower the bass when recording. So there are times when the bass sound hollow or off - that's completely my phone, not the truck.

I bought the Cadence tweeters (Amazon.com : Cadence Acoustics ZRS75T 1-Inch 200 Watt Peak Hybrid Tweeter : Vehicle Tweeters : Car Electronics)


So here they are:

PRE TWEETER SOUND CHECK
https://youtu.be/Uc09E0DK3mk

MID TWEETER UPGRADE SOUND CHECK
https://youtu.be/r7pQz9noS8I

POST TWEETER SOUND CHECK
https://youtu.be/2OQyYiNE0lk

Hope that helps anyone on the fence about the upgrade and thanks to laserguy for the thread and everyone else who gave advice and suggestions!
Great Idea, Frankie

I've got audio upgrades planned in two vehicles this year...
 

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After reading this thread and doing some additional research, I replaced my factory tweeters with a pair of JBL GTO19T. Wow! What a difference. It confirms what everyone was raving about...how such a low cost item could improve the sound so greatly. Definitely worth the money.
Btw, it was mentioned earlier within this thread how the XM radio sounds so poor. I read on another thread from Joe that the Honda software is the culprit. To get around this issue, the cd changer needs to be played...then switch to XM radio. This seems to help the sound quality. Unfortunately, this has to be done each time the RL is restarted.
Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this thread and helped me 'Pimp My Factory Sound in 15 minutes'.:wink:
 

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I installed the Cadence
last night. $17.80 on Amazon right now BTW.

All I can say is it is disgraceful that Honda would put such trash in the tweeter spot. These have not broken in yet, and I need to finish sound deadening and still have all factory speakers and head unit. The new tweeters make this system at least 10X better.

DO IT NOW!!!!!!!!
 

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Ordered a pair of Polk Audio DB 1001 - 1 inch silk dome tweaters. 6-60 RMS 180 peak. I'll post up how easy they are to slap into the OEM covers. Excited to get some crispness in the RL. The only thing lacking with the stock sound IMO. At least unless you REALLY want to blast....I'm over those days hahaha.
 

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Just wanted to thank all the members who contributed information to this thread! I went with the JBL GTO18T and even without being broken in, I am SO happy with them. Really does make an icredible difference and really brings the audio system together.
I actually ended up cutting the connectors off and soldering the tweeters in, as the stock harness connectors were so small. Hate doing that but I don't plan on taking them back out.

Thanks again!
 

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I have a question for the people who have installed the Cadence tweeter: did you add in a new crossover, or did you just wire it in without one?

Thanks
 

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I unplugged the stock tweeters, removed them from the housing. Zip tied the Cadence tweeters into the housings and then wired them. Took 10 minutes a side, sound awesome. Had to drop the tweeter frequencies on the EQ in my Pioneer head unit way down.
 

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I am going to be installing a pair of Polk DB1001 tweeters in the stock location. These come with a pair of relatively small inline crossovers. My 06 still has its OEM disc changer head unit. . . .

My question is whether or not to use the crossovers? Is it a full range signal coming to the tweeters or has it already been adjusted for tweeter only output?

Thanks!
 

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I haven't actually put the new tweeters back in my Ridge but they are ready to go!

The Polk DB1001s ended up being a bit of a challenge to install. They are soft dome type tweeters btw. As delivered the tweeter assembly is just about the same OD as the OUTSIDE of the OEM tweeter holder molded into the dash covers. I needed to remove the plastic trim housing and grille that surround the actual tweeters. I used a loose hacksaw blade to gently cut some slots in the plastic and then pried it off. The tweeter assembly underneath fit nicely into the oem speaker holder but it needed to be held out (from full insertion) a bit to keep the dome from touching anything. I used a few drops of hot glue to hold the tweeters temporarily where I wanted them. I then applied epoxy around the entire bottom perimeter to firmly glue them in place. Hot glue is DEFINITELY not good for any long term install particularly one that resides in a hot dash but the epoxy should be good for the long haul.

The wiring going into the DB's inline crossovers is heavy (about 14 gauge!) and didn't seem like it would fit into the oem connectors. I decided to cut off the female connectors from the OEM (POS!) tweeters. Again I used a hand held hack saw blade. I then soldered the tweeters wires to the scavenged connectors and used shrink wrap to insulate and solidify the connections. Figuring out the polarity on the connector was easy (thanks to Laserguys posts at the beginning of this thread!) but I couldn't find any indication as to which wire was positive / which was negative going to the tweeters! Polk's instruction booklet was no help. Thankfully I found the info I needed in the Amazon reviews for the DB's. In case anyone decides to use the DB's the plain gray wire is negative and the gray wire with the red stripe is positive.

I chose the DB1001's because my door speakers are all 6" polk db series coaxials. Hopefully they will sound good; I will give another report tomorrow after I put them in.

BTW, the Polks crossover's have the provision for dropping their output by 3db (I think that is the spec) by cutting the yellow wire in the crossover. Basically if things are too bright you can attenuate the output this way.

Here's a pic of the assemblies ready to go back into the truck. Note the scavenged connectors on the wire ends. . . .
 

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I have had the Polk tweeters installed now for a couple of days. . .

Sound quality is noticeably improved with dash tweeters that actually do something. In particular the "sound stage" has been lifted up with much better imaging.

I used to have the treble up one or two notches and now have it turned down a couple of notches. I haven't yet decided whether or not to cut the attenuation wires on the crossovers. . . CDs sound hugely better. On the other hand I do listen to Pandora radio a good deal in the car and the new tweeters reveal the limitations of that sound source with the highs being a bit harsh at times.

Overall, the $50 I spent here gives a lot of bang for the buck!
 
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