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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a Pioneer AVH4200 NEX ,2 DIN, entertainment/Navi radio in my 2006 Honda Ridgeline, then I was told that I would have to purchase a separate sub-woofer to install with this system as my Bose OEM sub-woofer was not connect able/ attachable
Was wondering if anyone has run across this same problem? I wouldnt mind installing a second aftermarket sub-woofer but it just doesnt make good Sence to me since my Bose is one of the best sounding Subs.
Just wondering if anyone found a way to include our built-in OEM Bose Subwooders to these Pioneers aftermarkets
 

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I didn't know that our factory sub. was a Bose. If it is, Bose factory systems sometimes use weird circuitry that will not work with other head units. That said, if you unplug the sub and run dedicated wires from your new head unit to a small amp, then from the amp directly to the speaker, there's no reason for the speaker not to work. Just have to bi-pass the Bose circuits.
 

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Thanks so much. I'm not positive that the OEM Radio installed was a Bose or the Sub-woofer for all that matters, and I'll continue to research that. I do know that the Radio was made/installed originally in Mexico, however. I discovered that when installing the new aftermarket Pioneer radio Model AVH4200nex. about 1 1/2 years ago and couldn't figure out why the wiring was not the same as the instructions called for. I finally found a Pioneer Professional who informed me that there was a note in their instruction booklet that the installers in Mexico had wired the radio BACKWARDS and all wiring on the rear of the harness was opposite? Go figure? Can't wait for Industry to fully return our production back to the Good Old United States. {I digress}.
But I do remember, now that you mentioned it, that I would need an AMP and that was the only thing stopping me from connecting the Sub-Woofer to the aftermarket Pioneer.
I guess my next question would have to be , "Where do I locate my Sub-Woofer in my 2006 Honda Ridgeline". I've already taken apart the underneath seat of the rear driver side rear pax seat and found nothing. And I understand the Sub could be in one of several places? Any ideas?

And thank you so much for returning a response so quickly. I think I lost interest in installing an AMP for the sub-Woofer when I couldn't find the sub-woofer! lol
 

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mecajunboy01, Are you driving a 2006 US market Ridgeline? Are you the same person as Larry Gulliot??
A 2006 US market Ridgeline was made in Canada. Ridgeline production shifted over to Alabama around 2008/2009 (I'm not 100% sure when)

The OEM headunit (non Navi) is made by Pioneer (I dont know where it was manufactured) and as far as I know, Bose has nothing to do with the subwoofer. There is no special circuitry built into the factory sub.The OEM head unit has a built in amplifier for the rear sub which aftermarket head units typically do not have, so you will need a separate amplifier for the factory sub with your new head unit. The factory sub is behind the seat back of the rear passenger seat.

I have no idea what you are referring to about the reversed wiring for your head unit; your headunit should be wired just like every other 2006 Ridgeline with the same trim level as yours.

If you search this forum you can find a number of threads on what people did to keep their factory subwoofer with an aftermarket head unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I own a 2006 Honda Ridgeline. I installed a aftermarket Pioneer AVH4200NEX head unit , 2 DIN, in the truck . That head unit doesn't allow for us to continue using our original factory Sub-woofer, so we lose at least 60% of the quality sound without a sub. I was told by a trusted poster here that he installed very much the same way and wanted to keep his factory sub-woofer, so he also installed an AMP with his aftermarket head unit.
It is my understanding that he connected the factory sub-woofer to the amps Input then connected the AMP's output to the speakers at the back of the head unit. Would anyone be familiar with this type of transition? Is this effective and will it work......If I hook everything up properly???

HELP
 

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Discussion Starter #7
mecajunboy01, Are you driving a 2006 US market Ridgeline? Are you the same person as Larry Gulliot??
A 2006 US market Ridgeline was made in Canada. Ridgeline production shifted over to Alabama around 2008/2009 (I'm not 100% sure when)

The OEM headunit (non Navi) is made by Pioneer (I dont know where it was manufactured) and as far as I know, Bose has nothing to do with the subwoofer. There is no special circuitry built into the factory sub.The OEM head unit has a built in amplifier for the rear sub which aftermarket head units typically do not have, so you will need a separate amplifier for the factory sub with your new head unit. The factory sub is behind the seat back of the rear passenger seat.

I have no idea what you are referring to about the reversed wiring for your head unit; your headunit should be wired just like every other 2006 Ridgeline with the same trim level as yours.

If you search this forum you can find a number of threads on what people did to keep their factory subwoofer with an aftermarket head unit.
Im referring to the wiring from the aftermarket radio connecting to the Factory OEM wiring inside the dash..... I original harness left inside the dash with the 20+plus color coded wire of speakers and other accessories like woofer, etc. We discovered, myself and an intelligent electronics tech with Pioneer Corp, electronics, discovered, after I hooked up a few wires my new aftermarket head unit from Pioneer Corp. , we realized that the color-coded wiring (and numbered on Pioneers chart diagram), was not in the color order that he kept telling me had to be on the right or left of another color coded wire. Do you realize how confusing that can be to an average non -technical person trying to install aftermarket products. That's when the tech told me he read a notation at the bottom of the schematics that told him my radio wire harness was in fact, installed in reverse in the harness nest.

Anywho, this is where I'm at now at this stage of the game

Just took my rear seat out of the truck, and im looking at the factory OEM sub-woofer, that im trying to incorporate back into my sound system . (The sub-woofer was disengaged for two years because the Pioneer AVH4200NEX amp built into the radio, could not handle the factory Honda sub-woofer and I hasnt looked into purchasing a new AMP to boost the aftermarket Pioneer head unit until today, 2 years later.
Question: I have the Boss1100 AMP, I'd like to hook up to the factory OEM subwoffer AND run the wire from output from Amp to the head unit to regain sound from OEM subwoffer.....
Where is best place to mount new BOSS 1100 AMP? Should I put it with the subwoofer, if it fits behind the seat or should I mount it under the driver or passenger seat for ease of access?
Will this BOSS 1100 suffice IF all wiring is done properly?
 

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I installed a aftermarket Pioneer AVH4200NEX head unit , 2 DIN, in the truck . That head unit doesn't allow for us to continue using our original factory Sub-woofer, ......

........ Would anyone be familiar with this type of transition? Is this effective and will it work......If I hook everything up properly???
While the HU you installed doesn't include an amp for subwoofer power, it does have complete provisions for adding an external amp to power and control a sub:
AVH-4200NEX.png

The thumbnail:
  1. TURN YOUR HU VOLUME TO MINIMUM before you power it off and disconnect your vehicle battery to do the following
  2. Connect the above pictured RCA OUT from the HU to the low-level RCA IN on your added sub power amp
  3. Connect the speaker OUT from your added sub power amp to the connections on your subwoofer (the wires to the OE sub)
  4. Connect power (with appropriate fusing) and turn-on leads to the added sub power amp
  5. Set gains and filters on the added sub power amp
  6. Reconnect vehicle battery
  7. Turn-on the HU, carefully and slowly ramp-up the volume with music playing, adjust gains and filters according to what you hear
See the instructions on page 59 of the AVH-4200NEX Owner's Manual: "Connections > Power amp (sold separately)"

See the instructions for the power amp you buy

If you're not absolutely comfortable setting it up, seek a local installer's professional help to avoid damaging anything.

BTW, IF "via 1100 amp" in your post title happens to mean the BOSS R1100M (400+ WRMS, @ 4 Ohms) amp and you are using that to drive the OE sub, there's a very good chance of causing OE sub damage unless you seriously limit the amp output via its gain controls (even though that's not the real purpose of gain controls), IMO.

Note that the amp used in the example linked by @eurban was rated at 150 WRMS @ 4 Ohms to drive the OE sub. If you over-drive the OE sub, you will cause it to fail. Installing an amp with a bit of extra overhead power is fine, but installing an amp that's far more powerful than the expected speaker capability can invite unnecessary complication, IMO.

Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I didn't know that our factory sub. was a Bose. If it is, Bose factory systems sometimes use weird circuitry that will not work with other head units. That said, if you unplug the sub and run dedicated wires from your new head unit to a small amp, then from the amp directly to the speaker, there's no reason for the speaker not to work. Just have to bi-pass the Bose circuits.
You were right Donuteater, the Sub-woofer behind the rear seat has no identification on its casing and I'm gonna try to leave it like that. The two wires exiting on the outside rear riverside of the box appear to be speaker wires.
I mounted the Boss1100 monoblock amp under the front driver seat ,(ha, like there's a rear driver's seat...only when my wife is back there), and ran the speaker wires to the under dash to rear of my Pioneer AVH4200nex head unit. But with the auto volume remotely box connecting to the AMP, I'm certain I've hooked something up wrong. Pretty much everything else is commonsensically hooked up. Power to battery, ground, and remote , and then speaker, but I'm still not getting the sub-woofer working. I may have to dismount it and ascertain that I have the speaker wires, but one of the wires exiting the Sub has the same bright green stripe that I've seen on back of my head unit. Just gotta run through the wiring again. But the good thing is, I have no hot wires or overheating of AMP.

I wish I could find a tech who's familiar with Hinda G-1s and can walk me thru this.
When I hooked up my AVH420O head unit , it took me 3 weeks to get it right and set it up. Because I found out later that the wiring coming from the Original harness was colored backwards, but I stay firm when expkaining the color coded wiring until I found a tech who researched it for me and called me to tell me I wasn't crazy and since the OEM Pioneer radio was installed in Mexuco, that he found a note that that particular year all those radio harnesses were wired backwards in sequence.
 

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A competent audio installer, even lacking specific knowledge of the Honda G1, can do a simple continuity test to determine which pins on the vehicle harness behind the dash correspond to the wires at the subwoofer. That's where you should connect the SPEAKER WIRES from the Boss Amp if you are not going to run directly from the Boss Amp to the wires at the sub.

I mounted the Boss1100 monoblock amp under the front driver seat ,...., and ran the speaker wires to the under dash to rear of my Pioneer AVH4200nex head unit.
So, you have a long pair of RCA cables running between the RCA OUT on the HU (pictured above) and the RCA IN on the Boss Amp, is that correct?

Boss Amp.png
 

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The Ridgeline's subwoofer is Pioneer. All other speakers are Pioneer as well in the RTL-T and below and Panasonic in the RTL-E and up.
He has a GenI so there is no RTL_E. As far as I know all the speakers in all the trims are the same with the following exceptions:
Sport and RTs (maybe RTX??) don't have a subwoofer at all.
My 14's Sport's tweeters were different (and MUCH BETTER!) than the tweeters in my 06RTS. Not sure when Honda made the change?


I wish I could find a tech who's familiar with Hinda G-1s and can walk me thru this.
When I hooked up my AVH420O head unit , it took me 3 weeks to get it right and set it up. Because I found out later that the wiring coming from the Original harness was colored backwards, but I stay firm when expkaining the color coded wiring until I found a tech who researched it for me and called me to tell me I wasn't crazy and since the OEM Pioneer radio was installed in Mexuco, that he found a note that that particular year all those radio harnesses were wired backwards in sequence.
None of the above makes sense. Your radio was not installed in Mexico. It was installed in Canada. FWIIW, I still have my 06 original busted up OEM radio (smashed by something that flew forward from the back seat during a panic stop) and it was made in China and installed in Canada where my Ridgeline was assembled.
 

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He has a GenI so there is no RTL_E. As far as I know all the speakers in all the trims are the same with the following exceptions:
Sport and RTs (maybe RTX??) don't have a subwoofer at all.
My 14's Sport's tweeters were different (and MUCH BETTER!) than the tweeters in my 06RTS. Not sure when Honda made the change?
Whoops. Sometimes I forget the 1G ever existed. Thanks for catching that. :)

All speakers in the 2006-2014 Ridgeline were Pioneer-branded. The RT, RTX, and Sport used "standard" tweeters and had no subwoofer. The RTS, RTL, and SE used "premium" tweeters and a subwoofer.

It's interesting that the standard tweeter sounded better to you than the premium tweeter.
 

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Honda apparently changed the tweeters late in Ridgeline production and I have my doubts as to the accuracy of your info on the tweeters themselves being different between the trims. The tweeters in my 06 RTS produced almost no sound and when removed for examination looked and felt (weighed almost nothing) exceedingly cheap. Hence the long and popular thread on "pimping" your factory sound by swapping the tweeters with aftermarket. I have never seen any evidence of this forum that there was any trim deviation to the tweeters themselves.
On my 14 Sport, the tweeter's produced ample sound and when examined are a poly cone type with some real heft to them. It must of been a production change late in the GenI life cycle. Here's a pic of the tweeter that came out of the 14 when I was upgrading the sound system a while ago.
IMG_1034.jpeg
 

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Honda apparently changed the tweeters late in Ridgeline production and I have my doubts as to the accuracy of your info on the tweeters themselves being different between the trims. The tweeters in my 06 RTS produced almost no sound and when removed for examination looked and felt (weighed almost nothing) exceedingly cheap. Hence the long and popular thread on "pimping" your factory sound by swapping the tweeters with aftermarket. I have never seen any evidence of this forum that there was any trim deviation to the tweeters themselves.
On my 14 Sport, the tweeter's produced ample sound and when examined are a poly cone type with some real heft to them. It must of been a production change late in the GenI life cycle. Here's a pic of the tweeter that came out of the 14 when I was upgrading the sound system a while ago. View attachment 400675
The "premium" tweeter (part number 39120-SJC-A11) was used in 2006-2014 RTS, RTL, and SE. It was also used in the 2007-2011 CR-V EX-L.

The "standard" tweeter (part number 39120-SJC-A41) was used in the 2006-2014 RT, RTX, and Sport.

I can find no evidence that Honda ever changed tweeter designs on the 2006-2014 Ridgeline. Neither of these part numbers appears to supersede any other.

EDIT: It looks like this has been discussed before...

 

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Discussion Starter #16
A competent audio installer, even lacking specific knowledge of the Honda G1, can do a simple continuity test to determine which pins on the vehicle harness behind the dash correspond to the wires at the subwoofer. That's where you should connect the SPEAKER WIRES from the Boss Amp if you are not going to run directly from the Boss Amp to the wires at the sub.

So, you have a long pair of RCA cables running between the RCA OUT on the HU (pictured above) and the RCA IN on the Boss Amp, is that correct?

View attachment 400670
It is my understanding that I cant use RCA hookup without an RCA converter. The minute I went to an aftermarket head, i lost the option to use RCA wires, correct?
He has a GenI so there is no RTL_E. As far as I know all the speakers in all the trims are the same with the following exceptions:
Sport and RTs (maybe RTX??) don't have a subwoofer at all.
My 14's Sport's tweeters were different (and MUCH BETTER!) than the tweeters in my 06RTS. Not sure when Honda made the change?



None of the above makes sense. Your radio was not installed in Mexico. It was installed in Canada. FWIIW, I still have my 06 original busted up OEM radio (smashed by something that flew forward from the back seat during a panic stop) and it was made in China and installed in Canada where my Ridgeline was assembled.

So, NONE of what I said doesn't make sense to YOU, Correct? One word mistake. I noted that the tech with Pioneer Corp. was the one who advised me that the radio was "INSTALLED" in Mexico. I should have said that the Tech with Pioneer Corp. finally discovered a notation when we were trying to figure out why the wiring colors weren't matching, and told me that the OEM factory "RADIO" was built Mexico and I was also told that it was assembled in California. That's what my original purchasing papers show also; the fact that my radio was installed in California....
I digress.
None of what you're questioning has anything to do with my question, however.
I'm going in to the wiring for the second time as I left the dash and rear seat out of the Honda Ridgeline, so that I could retract my wiring specs. and try to get all hooked up.
I"m also guessing that since the original Stereo/ Radio form Pioneer that was installed OEM, had
Whoops. Sometimes I forget the 1G ever existed. Thanks for catching that. :)

All speakers in the 2006-2014 Ridgeline were Pioneer-branded. The RT, RTX, and Sport used "standard" tweeters and had no subwoofer. The RTS, RTL, and SE used "premium" tweeters and a subwoofer.

It's interesting that the standard tweeter sounded better to you than the premium tweeter.
Sometimes you forget the G1 ever existed? lolol...Now that's funny, because more and more ppl. are buying the G1 with over 200,000 miles than ever.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
While the HU you installed doesn't include an amp for subwoofer power, it does have complete provisions for adding an external amp to power and control a sub:
View attachment 400621
The thumbnail:
  1. TURN YOUR HU VOLUME TO MINIMUM before you power it off and disconnect your vehicle battery to do the following
  2. Connect the above pictured RCA OUT from the HU to the low-level RCA IN on your added sub power amp
  3. Connect the speaker OUT from your added sub power amp to the connections on your subwoofer (the wires to the OE sub)
  4. Connect power (with appropriate fusing) and turn-on leads to the added sub power amp
  5. Set gains and filters on the added sub power amp
  6. Reconnect vehicle battery
  7. Turn-on the HU, carefully and slowly ramp-up the volume with music playing, adjust gains and filters according to what you hear
See the instructions on page 59 of the AVH-4200NEX Owner's Manual: "Connections > Power amp (sold separately)"

See the instructions for the power amp you buy

If you're not absolutely comfortable setting it up, seek a local installer's professional help to avoid damaging anything.

BTW, IF "via 1100 amp" in your post title happens to mean the BOSS R1100M (400+ WRMS, @ 4 Ohms) amp and you are using that to drive the OE sub, there's a very good chance of causing OE sub damage unless you seriously limit the amp output via its gain controls (even though that's not the real purpose of gain controls), IMO.

Note that the amp used in the example linked by @eurban was rated at 150 WRMS @ 4 Ohms to drive the OE sub. If you over-drive the OE sub, you will cause it to fail. Installing an amp with a bit of extra overhead power is fine, but installing an amp that's far more powerful than the expected speaker capability can invite unnecessary complication, IMO.

Good Luck.
Thank you so very much for the diagram, instructions. I can see that you know exactly what you're doing and instructing as you have displayed my Pioneer aftermarket rear unit hook-ups and plug-ins.
Also, thank you for reminding me to use my Pioneer AVH 4200 nex. instruction and application book.... I had forgotten that they do have all I need to know in connecting a new added AMP to my aftermarket 4200....
Thanks again and if you ever need anything, feel free to call on me as I'm alway around and happy to do surveys, and send in Thanks to companies your represent or are employed with....and drop a name for extra efforts as you have done here.
 

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It is my understanding that I cant use RCA hookup without an RCA converter. The minute I went to an aftermarket head, i lost the option to use RCA wires, correct?
Your understanding is 100% WRONG, it is based on having the OE head unit.

BECAUSE you have installed the AVH-4200NEX, and its specific requirements combined with the specific capabilities of the BOSS R1100M, you must use a standard RCA cable pair/stereo cable (two RCA male plugs on each end) to connect the units as I describe above, with no additional 'converter' required.

FORGET / IGNORE what others have done using the OE HU, RTFM and follow the instructions for the specific HU and Amp you have installed. That's what I have done for you in my posts above to "walk you through" the installation based on the specific components you say you have.

EDIT - just saw your post #17 - now you're getting it ;) :)
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited by Moderator)
Your understanding is 100% WRONG, it is based on having the OE head unit.

BECAUSE you have installed the AVH-4200NEX, and its specific requirements combined with the specific capabilities of the BOSS R1100M, you must use a standard RCA cable pair/stereo cable (two RCA male plugs on each end) to connect the units as I describe above, with no additional 'converter' required.

FORGET / IGNORE what others have done using the OE HU, RTFM and follow the instructions for the specific HU and Amp you have installed. That's what I have done for you in my posts above to "walk you through" the installation based on the specific components you say you have.

EDIT - just saw your post #17 - now you're getting it ;) :)
  1. please understand me. We get our information for those who are supposed to be experts here on Ridgeline/Honda/Forums and we don't just pull this out of our asses . While you are correct you are also incomplete with your own info. There are two ways to hook up this unit. I have accessories and wiring and attachments to do this one of two ways.
 

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