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Have you found moisture under your rear flooring in your 2017+ Ridgeline?

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2021 Radiant Red RTL
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Mine is done, just need to disinfect the carpets and reassemble the back seat area.
Sealed with filling the gaps with elastomeric sealer and topping over with flashing tape.
I had the hose running in the bed for a good 15 minutes without a drop of water inside.
This is the exact same open seam as my original photos and what was sealed on Celltech's truck.

The old-school mechanic in me was going insane looking at some related issues while sealing this leak:
1). There was still water inside several of those crevices 48 hours after water-testing the seam to find leaks. I had to use compressed air to dry them out before sealing. Means some are holding water and some leaked into the cab...fine. Guess what happens to trapped water in a seam below freezing? Usually doesn't end well.
2). Remember the fuel pump recall to install a protective moisture cover? The top of the pump was wet when I unplugged the wiring harness to move the access plate out of the way.
3). Remember the complaints about fuel injector failures? The top of the fuel tank has a 1/2" of standing water on top of the tank surrounding where the pump is inserted into the tank from the topside. How much of that water is leaking into the fuel???
4). Didn't unplug it but would swear the main harness connector involved in the early '17's recall is in the drench zone above the fuel tank and in proximity to that unsealed seam line.

Something tells me there is more water getting into this area than anyone planned...

The tape does look a little cleaner...

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Could you please provide us with a link on where to purchase the elastomeric sealer and flashing tape, in case we decide to take this matter in our own hands? Am I understanding correctly, that the back seats have to be removed to gain sufficient access to this area to perform the repair? Thank you for the pictures.
 

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2017 Ridgeline RTS in Deep Scarlet Red
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Could you please provide us with a link on where to purchase the elastomeric sealer and flashing tape, in case we decide to take this matter in our own hands? Am I understanding correctly, that the back seats have to be removed to gain sufficient access to this area to perform the repair? Thank you for the pictures.
Yes.... removed the back seat, bass speaker, and access panel to the fuel pump. Unplug the wiring harness at the pump and slip the harness & grommet from the cover to get that out of the way. Removing the seat allows the folding back the carpet to observe the entire seam in the vertical panel underneath the rear seat while water testing.

I also wanted open access to sanitize the carpet padding. Cleaned that yesterday by mixing a stronger than normal solution of Oxyclean carpet cleaner (contains hydrogen peroxide) with an anti-bacterial household cleaner (I used Mr. Clean) in very hot water. Poured that directly on the bare floor and laid the carpet back over the solution. Then, walked on top to work that solution through the padding and absorb into the upper layer. Let that sit in the rug an hour, then used bath towels underneath the carpet to blot the excess solution. Then, used a wet extraction carpet machine from the topside. It was a little too cool & overcast to dry that out so used the AC on recirculate with the temp turned way up to draw out the moisture. Hopefully that kills the mildew.

I'm relatively small & skinny and found this to be a flexibility challenge. The truck needed to be lifted slightly to contort into the work area from underneath. I used a floor jack under the center jacking point near the rear drive unit with jack stands under the rear suspension cross frame. Ramps would likely work ok but I don't have enough garage space to safely maneuver onto that arrangement.

Tape --> https://www.menards.com/main/hardwa...93-c-3624.htm?tid=-6803792907482104580&ipos=5

Sealant --> https://www.menards.com/main/paint/...c-sealant-10-oz/wl0003069/p-1444452824496.htm

For the sealant, I only choose black because already had an open tube of black from sealing the upper drain slots near the rear window. Also kept a bucket of clean water and a sponge to wipe clean excess sealant where the tape will get applied.

If I had to do this again...
1). If owned the lifting tools and had more garage space, would consider dropping the fuel tank. Dropping the tank would likely be faster & much easier to gain access to the entire open seam line, and the entire pinch-weld seam with the factory sealant. I can easily see using the ramps under the rear wheels and the floor jack to drop the tank. Then would have decent room to work.

2). On the sealant, I think the same stuff is available in hand-squeeze packaging which would highly recommend. I used a basic caulk gun & tube which was not a good tool for this space. Ended up jamming vinyl tubing onto the caulk tip to be able to work the gun from inside the cab while blindly working the seam by hand-feel through the fuel pump hole. For a couple of gaps, I shot the sealant into the finger of a rubber glove, tied the end & pricked the finger to make a hand dispenser. Don't waste the time & money, get the hand-squeeze packaging if available.
 

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I have played around with a lot of different flashing tapes and the tape used for sealing the joints between the ZIP system plywood sheathing (green and red plywood sheathing that being used throughout the building industry) is some amazing stuff. It sticks tenaciously to anything and you can get it at Lowes and the Depot.
 

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Those flashing tape products are amazing. However, the ones I've used can't be exposed to sunlight so I use gutter seal tape products that can be exposed to sunlight. Came in handy for filling gaps where insects or water could enter. For all you folks that sealed you cabs if the results hold up after a winter of freezing and thawing you should be golden.
 

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2017 Ridgeline RTS in Deep Scarlet Red
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Those flashing tape products are amazing. However, the ones I've used can't be exposed to sunlight so I use gutter seal tape products that can be exposed to sunlight. Came in handy for filling gaps where insects or water could enter. For all you folks that sealed you cabs if the results hold up after a winter of freezing and thawing you should be golden.
Good point. Shopping those tapes I found several that are only rated for adhesion down to about 15F. The tape selected for mine is slightly more expensive but rated to -20F. I'm optimistic that it holds. Figured if it gets that cold, I'm not going anywhere except some place warmer.

Some thought was also given to open exposure. Was considering top-coating with an elastomeric roof coating commonly used on mobile home roofs. However, getting painting tools into that area would be a greater challenge. Concerning sunlight exposure, suppose it's possible. Where this tape is placed, a much bigger problem is happening if that ever occurs.
 

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Those flashing tape products are amazing. However, the ones I've used can't be exposed to sunlight so I use gutter seal tape products that can be exposed to sunlight. Came in handy for filling gaps where insects or water could enter. For all you folks that sealed you cabs if the results hold up after a winter of freezing and thawing you should be golden.
Good point. Shopping those tapes I found several that are only rated for adhesion down to about 15F. The tape selected for mine is slightly more expensive but rated to -20F. I'm optimistic that it holds. Figured if it gets that cold, I'm not going anywhere except some place warmer.

Some thought was also given to open exposure. Was considering top-coating with an elastomeric roof coating commonly used on mobile home roofs. However, getting painting tools into that area would be a greater challenge. Concerning sunlight exposure, suppose it's possible. Where this tape is placed, a much bigger problem is happening if that ever occurs.
According to the Technical Specs of the tape RogersRTS linked to, at -20F the tape's "low temperature flexibility" rated "excellent." And the "UV resistance" rated "no degradation/no loss of peel adhesion."
 

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They took that to heart and sent in their best 6 year old to smear that entire lower seam with goo.

View attachment 413873
This is exactly why I don't take my vehicle to the dealership service department for anything other than a serious recall or TSB.
I'd much rather do the job correctly myself than let some idiot perform a hack job like pictured above.
 

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UPDATE on my 2020: At the dealer now and just came in from the hose down area. Mine was NOT the body seams as I suspected but the center rear window.

The lower seal is all part of the rear window assembly, so the whole rear window is getting ordered ($990 under warranty). My fault for not pulling the back seat but I saw the water trail from the dealer testing.

Going to temp seal and not use the rear window until the new one comes in. They are going to have a glass guy do it when the window is in.

Of course, no guarantee the seam isn't a small factor but the rear window was super obvious with the seat and trim pulled.
 

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Well, add me to the list. Picked up a 2021 Sport last month (built February in Alabama), and still haven't made the first payment or gotten tags. I originally saw this thread (while looking into terrible CarPlay audio) a couple weeks ago. I checked the carpet after a bit of rain, and it was dry.

We had a ton of rain the last couple days. I thought to re-check, and, as you can imagine, the rear foam was soaked underneath. That makes me worried for all the folks saying they don't have the issue... I really think you need to run a hose over the back window/seams, otherwise you might not find out until several weeks or months after a downpour, when your truck starts smelling like mold. :/

You guys are awesome. I could have driven for a year without noticing this. Service drop-off is next Wed.
 

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We had a ton of rain the last couple days. I thought to re-check, and, as you can imagine, the rear foam was soaked underneath.
Welcome to the U-Boat club...at least you have plenty of knowledge and pictures to assist the lowly body shop. Insist on them sealing all the points we have listed in the thread.
 

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That's a disappointing first post to read, but welcome to the Ridgeline Owners Club, @EvanM!

I admit I'm nervous as a whore in church about this considering my experiences with several Hondas the last few years - especially my 2019 Ridgeline.

My initial checks came back dry, although the driver's side felt suspiciously cool compared to the passenger's side. I'm almost scared to check again after the recent rains. If I can just make it until there are better alternatives to the Ridgeline, I'll feel more relaxed. :)

EDIT: Just checked and still dry at two months and 2,500 miles. 🤞
 

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If I can just make it until there are better alternatives to the Ridgeline, I'll feel more relaxed. :)
I went from "this is my lifetime truck" to "maybe this will hold me over until the second or third year of the electric F-150" really fast lol.
 

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Me as well, bought my new ridgeline on 4-15. After 3 days of rain last weekend, found water under drivers side rear carpet. Dropped it off at the dealership last night. Service manager admitted they had another last week where they had to get a Honda engineer to find the leak and make the repair. If it weren't for this forum this issue would of went unnoticed.
 

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In stock market jargon, they say, "a rising tide, lifts all boats." I guess in an indirect way, we are getting our Ridgelines lifted. What a mess. My carpet is not wet on either side, BUT the carpet on one side, in the second row, sure looks strange. My photos did not turn out well, so I will retake a couple.
 

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I went from "this is my lifetime truck" to "maybe this will hold me over until the second or third year of the electric F-150" really fast lol.
I've owned 3 RLs and love the format to the point where family makes fun of me BUT I'm diving in head first to the F-150 Lightning (reservation/deposit made on the intro night). I have enough experience with PHEVs and EVs in the family to know that there are simply less issues with EVs as there is simply less stuff to go wrong. No EV in the family has EVER been back to a dealer (we have NO Teslas to qualify - just Hyundai and Toyota). Hoping to have the Lightning by this time in 2022. I had a Mach-E for an afternoon and have confidence in Ford's EV approach to things.
 

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Just to add to the wetness theme. The seams are a definite issue but after my leak proved to be the seal at the bottom of the rear sliding window, I wonder how common this is as well. Seeing the gasket exposed and the liner fully removed, there are serious issues with the engineering of this gasket. It is a single point of failure and can very easily be kinked and distorted.

You could watch the trickle of water flow straight down behind the seat trim to the floor. I'd imagine the rate of wet floors is higher with sliding rear window G2s vs those with solid rear windows. The whole thing is disappointing and the one benefit of a body on frame pickup is the separation of the bed and cab. I use to EASILY get a water tight tonneau cover fit with a separate bed where the water dropped between the front of the bed and cab without incident.
 
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