Man that sucks to hear you had so much trouble honestly I didn't even use the instructions and just did what I wanted for the most part. it was a small reference.
Pop & Lock Install... painful!
DynoLock Install... painful!
EDIT: The following text is actually about the install of the DynoLock product, NOT the Pop & Lock. My apologies to all involved. Any mention by me of the P&L should be replaced by DynoLock.
I figured between the instructions sent with the P&L, as well as the helpful hints at the thread below, this would go pretty easily... not so much.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...ications/168850-pop-lock-install-2017-rl.html
I spent just over 5 hours putting this in my RTL-E (and perhaps that contributed to the difficulty compared to the above thread's RL). Going against the grain, I did not find the instructions as "easy" as many others. Ignoring the incomplete (mallet?) / incorrect (T30 Torx, not T40, and multiple yellow wires, as mentioned in above thread) instructions, it's really difficult to get much from a 1"-high B/W picture that has been through a photocopier. Even after having done it I still cannot make heads or tails of some of the pictures (pic on top of page 3 is so blurry it looks like someone took a pic with their thumb in the viewfinder). Would it have killed them to include an extra 2-3 pages and make the images larger? And shouldn't they at least be updated by now to fix the errors/oversights?
As in the above thread, I chose to run the wire along the fender well and enter the bellows/gland at the rear firewall. I was 1.5 hours in with no luck before I decided to tape it to a coat hanger. Perhaps my RTL-E had more wires in that bundle than ualramper's RL (in-bed speakers, etc.), leading to the difficulty... don't know, I'll let someone else figure that one out. But I quickly ran shy of zip-ties (only 5?) trying to keep the cable in place around the multiple bends... perhaps 10 would have been better?
The biggest annoyance, however, was the solenoid/bracket. Mine was placed in a different location than ualramper's... I ordered the heavy-duty version, so perhaps that was the difference? But the bracket had the bends in the wrong place (close, but not quite), so when you tightened down the bolts, the bracket bent and the locking tab was pushed up/out of place and didn't do any good. The edges of the bracket also needed an upward bend all around to avoid scraping the paint off all around. Finally, one of the plastic bosses on the solenoid jutted out so far, there was no way to get the ratchet in there for one of the two bolts... I had to snug it with the needle-nosed pliers, then get an open-end wrench in there to tighten it down.
Some suggestions on the best place to run the wire rather than simply "route through the tailgate as needed" would have been nice, too. I dutifully removed the seatbelt anchor, as instructed, but it was completely unnecessary. I skipped removing the seatbelt spring/sensor assembly and sound deadening material as that wasn't necessary either.
I have a couple of pics to show the troublesome plastic boss and the different location of the unit compared to ualramper's, so when I get a moment I'll grab them off of my phone and post. It's over and I'm sore, so hopefully this thing lasts the life of the truck...
EDIT: The following text is actually about the install of the DynoLock product, NOT the Pop & Lock. My apologies to all involved. Any mention by me of the P&L should be replaced by DynoLock.
I figured between the instructions sent with the P&L, as well as the helpful hints at the thread below, this would go pretty easily... not so much.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...ications/168850-pop-lock-install-2017-rl.html
I spent just over 5 hours putting this in my RTL-E (and perhaps that contributed to the difficulty compared to the above thread's RL). Going against the grain, I did not find the instructions as "easy" as many others. Ignoring the incomplete (mallet?) / incorrect (T30 Torx, not T40, and multiple yellow wires, as mentioned in above thread) instructions, it's really difficult to get much from a 1"-high B/W picture that has been through a photocopier. Even after having done it I still cannot make heads or tails of some of the pictures (pic on top of page 3 is so blurry it looks like someone took a pic with their thumb in the viewfinder). Would it have killed them to include an extra 2-3 pages and make the images larger? And shouldn't they at least be updated by now to fix the errors/oversights?
As in the above thread, I chose to run the wire along the fender well and enter the bellows/gland at the rear firewall. I was 1.5 hours in with no luck before I decided to tape it to a coat hanger. Perhaps my RTL-E had more wires in that bundle than ualramper's RL (in-bed speakers, etc.), leading to the difficulty... don't know, I'll let someone else figure that one out. But I quickly ran shy of zip-ties (only 5?) trying to keep the cable in place around the multiple bends... perhaps 10 would have been better?
The biggest annoyance, however, was the solenoid/bracket. Mine was placed in a different location than ualramper's... I ordered the heavy-duty version, so perhaps that was the difference? But the bracket had the bends in the wrong place (close, but not quite), so when you tightened down the bolts, the bracket bent and the locking tab was pushed up/out of place and didn't do any good. The edges of the bracket also needed an upward bend all around to avoid scraping the paint off all around. Finally, one of the plastic bosses on the solenoid jutted out so far, there was no way to get the ratchet in there for one of the two bolts... I had to snug it with the needle-nosed pliers, then get an open-end wrench in there to tighten it down.
Some suggestions on the best place to run the wire rather than simply "route through the tailgate as needed" would have been nice, too. I dutifully removed the seatbelt anchor, as instructed, but it was completely unnecessary. I skipped removing the seatbelt spring/sensor assembly and sound deadening material as that wasn't necessary either.
I have a couple of pics to show the troublesome plastic boss and the different location of the unit compared to ualramper's, so when I get a moment I'll grab them off of my phone and post. It's over and I'm sore, so hopefully this thing lasts the life of the truck...
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
I have one on order also and have the mod bug again every time I get a new truck.
Seriously, I was no more than 10 minutes from backing my truck into the garage to begin the project of installing my pop-n-lock. Glad I was late getting out there. Not sure I want to deal with the aggravation you had to endure. Thanks.I figured between the instructions sent with the P&L, as well as the helpful hints at the thread below, this would go pretty easily... not so much.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...ications/168850-pop-lock-install-2017-rl.html
I spent just over 5 hours putting this in my RTL-E (and perhaps that contributed to the difficulty compared to the above thread's RL). Going against the grain, I did not find the instructions as "easy" as many others. Ignoring the incomplete (mallet?) / incorrect (T30 Torx, not T40, and multiple yellow wires, as mentioned in above thread) instructions, it's really difficult to get much from a 1"-high B/W picture that has been through a photocopier. Even after having done it I still cannot make heads or tails of some of the pictures (pic on top of page 3 is so blurry it looks like someone took a pic with their thumb in the viewfinder). Would it have killed them to include an extra 2-3 pages and make the images larger? And shouldn't they at least be updated by now to fix the errors/oversights?
As in the above thread, I chose to run the wire along the fender well and enter the bellows/gland at the rear firewall. I was 1.5 hours in with no luck before I decided to tape it to a coat hanger. Perhaps my RTL-E had more wires in that bundle than ualramper's RL (in-bed speakers, etc.), leading to the difficulty... don't know, I'll let someone else figure that one out. But I quickly ran shy of zip-ties (only 5?) trying to keep the cable in place around the multiple bends... perhaps 10 would have been better?
The biggest annoyance, however, was the solenoid/bracket. Mine was placed in a different location than ualramper's... I ordered the heavy-duty version, so perhaps that was the difference? But the bracket had the bends in the wrong place (close, but not quite), so when you tightened down the bolts, the bracket bent and the locking tab was pushed up/out of place and didn't do any good. The edges of the bracket also needed an upward bend all around to avoid scraping the paint off all around. Finally, one of the plastic bosses on the solenoid jutted out so far, there was no way to get the ratchet in there for one of the two bolts... I had to snug it with the needle-nosed pliers, then get an open-end wrench in there to tighten it down.
Some suggestions on the best place to run the wire rather than simply "route through the tailgate as needed" would have been nice, too. I dutifully removed the seatbelt anchor, as instructed, but it was completely unnecessary. I skipped removing the seatbelt spring/sensor assembly and sound deadening material as that wasn't necessary either.
I have a couple of pics to show the troublesome plastic boss and the different location of the unit compared to ualramper's, so when I get a moment I'll grab them off of my phone and post. It's over and I'm sore, so hopefully this thing lasts the life of the truck...
So if you break down the numbers on my 5-hour install, 1.5 of those was tied up in the bellows on the firewall... removing the electrical tape, trying to jam a wire in it without ripping, retaping, etc. If you go with the coat hanger right from the get-go, you'll save yourself quite a bit of time. Just make sure you file the end so it doesn't have any sharp edges that could pierce another wire. Once I got a hold of the wire inside the cabin, a slow, gentle pull had it through in under a minute.
If I had to do it again, I'd remove a few more screws on the fender liner and get the liner out of the way completely. I would have preferred to have the truck up on a lift with that one wheel removed for space, but it's not terrible.
I think what stuck out to me the most was how folks have said "it took me an hour and 15 minutes, with 30 minutes of that just to get the tailgate cap back on." There's simply no way I could do that in 45 minutes, so people are either not paying close attention to how much time they're actually spending, someone is bending the truth, or I'm just that unlucky (wholly possible). I also see the comment about how great the instructions are.... honestly, they're marginal. I've written install instructions for equipment I designed for my own company... the pictures were big, clear, and in color (you could download larger images, if you so desired)... and those were useful instructions.
I'd still like to know why my version was different than ualramper's... perhaps it is the difference between the standard and heavy-duty version...
If I had to do it again, I'd remove a few more screws on the fender liner and get the liner out of the way completely. I would have preferred to have the truck up on a lift with that one wheel removed for space, but it's not terrible.
I think what stuck out to me the most was how folks have said "it took me an hour and 15 minutes, with 30 minutes of that just to get the tailgate cap back on." There's simply no way I could do that in 45 minutes, so people are either not paying close attention to how much time they're actually spending, someone is bending the truth, or I'm just that unlucky (wholly possible). I also see the comment about how great the instructions are.... honestly, they're marginal. I've written install instructions for equipment I designed for my own company... the pictures were big, clear, and in color (you could download larger images, if you so desired)... and those were useful instructions.
I'd still like to know why my version was different than ualramper's... perhaps it is the difference between the standard and heavy-duty version...
Hummm.....
I agree that the instructions are "sketchy" and could be greatly improved! I used the online YouTube to help guide me on the tailgate stuff. That helped a lot. Toughest part for me was getting from the gate to the B pillar, especially without a lift.
I'm a bit confused. I don't believe that Pop and Lock has 2 versions of Solenoid. I believe that the other brand does. Can you confirm which one you purchased?
Also, I didn't run the wiring through the rear firewall. We came up in the driver's side rear door threshold and then tied the wiring in at the B Pillar. Hole is simple to reach there. Tough part was getting over/around the wheelwell. The later posts on the liner sure would have helped me with mine.
Yes, it took me several hours. Tailgate was a breeze with the video. Cable path was really tough.
I agree that the instructions are "sketchy" and could be greatly improved! I used the online YouTube to help guide me on the tailgate stuff. That helped a lot. Toughest part for me was getting from the gate to the B pillar, especially without a lift.
I'm a bit confused. I don't believe that Pop and Lock has 2 versions of Solenoid. I believe that the other brand does. Can you confirm which one you purchased?
Also, I didn't run the wiring through the rear firewall. We came up in the driver's side rear door threshold and then tied the wiring in at the B Pillar. Hole is simple to reach there. Tough part was getting over/around the wheelwell. The later posts on the liner sure would have helped me with mine.
Yes, it took me several hours. Tailgate was a breeze with the video. Cable path was really tough.
I thought my install was more of a medium intensity install. Does your actuator mount like this one?
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/169-2g-accessories-performance-parts-modifications/169354-dyno-products-locking-tailgate-2017-rl.html
The pictures with the instructions did leave a lot to be desired. I knew where I needed to go I just made my own path.
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/169-2g-accessories-performance-parts-modifications/169354-dyno-products-locking-tailgate-2017-rl.html
The pictures with the instructions did leave a lot to be desired. I knew where I needed to go I just made my own path.
Admittedly I'm pretty sure I got lucky with how easy my wire fed through the grommet with the wire harness, I was fully prepared use a coat hangar as well but my wire was a nice heavy gauge and it fed through like butter.So if you break down the numbers on my 5-hour install, 1.5 of those was tied up in the bellows on the firewall... removing the electrical tape, trying to jam a wire in it without ripping, retaping, etc. If you go with the coat hanger right from the get-go, you'll save yourself quite a bit of time. Just make sure you file the end so it doesn't have any sharp edges that could pierce another wire. Once I got a hold of the wire inside the cabin, a slow, gentle pull had it through in under a minute.
If I had to do it again, I'd remove a few more screws on the fender liner and get the liner out of the way completely. I would have preferred to have the truck up on a lift with that one wheel removed for space, but it's not terrible.
I think what stuck out to me the most was how folks have said "it took me an hour and 15 minutes, with 30 minutes of that just to get the tailgate cap back on." There's simply no way I could do that in 45 minutes, so people are either not paying close attention to how much time they're actually spending, someone is bending the truth, or I'm just that unlucky (wholly possible). I also see the comment about how great the instructions are.... honestly, they're marginal. I've written install instructions for equipment I designed for my own company... the pictures were big, clear, and in color (you could download larger images, if you so desired)... and those were useful instructions.
I'd still like to know why my version was different than ualramper's... perhaps it is the difference between the standard and heavy-duty version...
Anyone doing this can also use a bit of Vaseline to help it through as well.
OH and to get the cap back on all I did was put the clips on the cap and then just pop the cap back on the tailgate, this was after i was trying to reverse it back on with the plastic clips in the tail gate and not on the cap. Once I realized what i was doing and it was wrong it worked out fine.
Did you take any pics of the unit before or during the install ?
This is a recurrent phenomenon on internet automotive forums. The ole unrealistic work time claims. They are notorious. I love the "I did that in 10 minutes" when simply taking the required tools out of your tool chest, even if organized by an anal-retentive OCD mechanic would take up this time allotment.S
I think what stuck out to me the most was how folks have said "it took me an hour and 15 minutes, with 30 minutes of that just to get the tailgate cap back on." There's simply no way I could do that in 45 minutes, so people are either not paying close attention to how much time they're actually spending, someone is bending the truth, or I'm just that unlucky (wholly possible).
Your experience may end up being on the long side due to your struggles with routing the wiring. But, I think all the other parts of the project for a weekend DIYer still would take several hours. After all, you are not racing to get things done either.
Simply make a note of this experience and multiply any internet reports on work times by about 2 or 3.
Paul.
I just ordered mine today I'm a big DIY guy will keep you posted can't wait to tackle it
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ugh! I was all set to order one for my RTL-E.
Between the cruddy instructions and misshaped bracket, I'll wait this one out.
Between the cruddy instructions and misshaped bracket, I'll wait this one out.
Ive had zero issues and install really wasn't that hardUgh! I was all set to order one for my RTL-E.
Between the cruddy instructions and misshaped bracket, I'll wait this one out.
I just ordered mine and thanks for your install notes it will help a lot!Ive had zero issues and install really wasn't that hard
If you have any questions just quote me in the thread or DM me and I'll try and get back to you ASAPI just ordered mine and thanks for your install notes it will help a lot!
You do have other options/brand ! :nerd::wink:Ugh! I was all set to order one for my RTL-E.
Between the cruddy instructions and misshaped bracket, I'll wait this one out.
Did you ever install your dynolock?You do have other options/brand ! :nerd::wink:
soon ~ >Did you ever install your dynolock?
Winter just thaw...there many things I have on my to do list.
Many thanks to the OP for convincing me to pay someone to install the P&L when I have it installed. I'm not a natural at things like this & don't visualize very well how things ought to look. For me it will money well spent & will leave me more time to drive my RL someplace interesting.
Thanks for the pics!
Does yours only unlock when all doors unlock as well?
FYI I would pay for a video of the installation...
Does yours only unlock when all doors unlock as well?
FYI I would pay for a video of the installation...
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums
Honda Ridgeline Owners Club, forum community to discuss reviews, accessories, performance, care, mods, and more.
Full Forum Listing
