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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, has anyone rewired the power outlets so they will stay on when the key is turned off?
I'm thinking of running a wire from an accessory in the fuse box .
Thanks
 

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They should have their own circuit with a relay somewhere that you could probably jump out. No shop manual here to confirm with - but if its an underhood compartment (acc. relays tend to be) it could be straightforward with zero wiring.


No ridgeline for me yet, but my shop manual arrives Wed...
 

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This should be fairly easy to do.
The front two sockets are powered via fuse No 5 (15A) under the hood. The rear socket is via fuse No 9 (10A) under the dash. There is a seperate relay for the front and back too. Both relays are energized via the ignition and fuse No 32 (7.5A) under the dash. For the front relay, the yel/red wire is switched, blu/orn wire is live in and grn/orn is live out. For the rear relay, yel/red is switched while yel is live in and wht/red is live out. Linking the live in to out for each relay will bypass the ignition - that's pins 1 & 2.

The rear relay is the easiest to get to - it's the second from the right on the second row up in the relay box above the dead pedal.
The relay pin layout is as below - 3 & 4 will be reversed when looking at the relay socket. Pull the relay and bridge Pins 1 & 2 in the socket.
The front relay is behind the dash somewhere above the headlamp switch.

_ Pin 1
_ Pin 2
| |
3 4

For those with the shop manual, this is from page 22-284/5 and 22-76
I refuse to be liable for the flat battery you will have in the morning :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi, thanks for the info, it is a bit over my head however I will be taking this to the guys doing my remote start next weekend. I will let you know how it works.
I will not be leaving anything plugged in over night but with 2 cell phones and a laptop something is always low on batteries every day.
 

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Boogity said:
I will not be leaving anything plugged in over night but with 2 cell phones and a laptop something is always low on batteries every day.
The difference being the chemistry in these batteries. Car batteries are not made to be discharged, and each time they are drained they lose a LOT of their charge capacity.
 

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Considering the extremely low voltage modern cell phones and PDAs use, one could most likely run one of these devices for well over a month on the battery, with no noticable drain. The only concern would be how efficient the DC converter/charger is.
 

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With small devices like cell phones, etc, battery drain shouldn't be a factor. But if one makes this mod, they'll have to watch out for high current devices being plugged in too long.
 

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I was waiting for someone to step up and be the guinea pig, but either no one has done it or has not shared it with the members, so I decided to do it anyway and make the rear power outlet live. Piece of cake, sort of. I first pulled the second relay from the right in the second row. To make sure I had the correct relay I plugged in the GPS and turned on the ignition. Hmmm, still had power to the outlet. Obviously the wrong relay. I put that relay back in and tried the first one. Voila, no power. There is a place for a relay on the far right, but at least on the RTS, it is not being used (red arrow, picture #1). I made up a jumper wire, got back down under the dash, started to insert the jumper and dropped it. :eek: :mad: :eek: It now resides at the bottom of the kick panel void. I made up another jumper, this time with a longer wire (green arrow, picture #1) so I could hang on to it better and inserted it into the sockets. Turned on the GPS without the ignition on and SUCCESS. :D Live socket 24/7. Picture #2 is the relay that was removed. Picture #3 is the jumper that I made. It really was pretty simple and not too difficult to get to. Thanks Lingered_I for providing the information that made this possible.
 

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You ROC!!! Ya wanna make me a relay oh grand master of 24/7 power. :D
 

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If you would like one, birthday boy, no problem. However, patents are still pending, still looking for venture capital, and have to tool up for the production one. Oh wait, there's already a prototype in the bottom of the RL. Come on over and dig it out. :D

P.S.
Would you like red or blue wire?
 

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Webwader said:
If you would like one, birthday boy, no problem. However, patents are still pending, still looking for venture capital, and have to tool up for the production one. Oh wait, there's already a prototype in the bottom of the RL. Come on over and dig it out. :D

P.S.
Would you like red or blue wire?
I gots me a wyr hanger n sum chewin gum we can git r done.
If your serious about making me one blue would be good it stands out nicely.
 

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Glad to have helped. Are you going to try the front ones too?
No, the rear is sufficient. I just need it for the GPS and I think the rear will work out better than a front would, not to mention being easier to do.
The GPS cord will lay right along side the console and since the speaker is on the plug end of the cord, it will free up that space up front plus put the speaker closer to my ear.
 

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If your serious about making me one blue would be good it stands out nicely.
I get one made as soon as I can find a spare three minutes, Harry. :)
 

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Your jumper is done, Harry. I squeezed it in between brain surgery and teaching a class on the theory of relativity. :D I also added a picture of the jumper with the other photos.
 

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Very nice and clean installation mugen. Good use for "Not an Ashtray". Your stereo battery needs charging. :)
 

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10.2? Wow, 10.5 is considered a dead battery.

The spades go in the vertical slots. If you are using standard spades they won't fit in the horizontal slots anyway as they are narrower spades.
 

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mugen1 said:
You can always use one of these to keep an eye on the battery condition. The one on the left keeps me apprised of the starting battery, while the other one does the dedicated stereo battery in the back. I like these because they are digital, quite accurate, and has the ability to blink when voltage drops at a point that you set.
Hey mugen1 - with those, maybe you can confirm whether or not the main battery stops charging during acceleration as discussed in another thread. I assume that you see ~14v when normal charging is taking place. Do you see any differences between idle, acceleration and decceleration?
 

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Web thanks againfor walking me through that mod. This probably isn't something anyone that isn't a journeyman electrician should attempt w/o supervision.

Web said he may be available via contract to come out and assist with your install.:rolleyes:
 
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