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Has anybody on here replaced the power steering hose that goes from the power steering pump to the rack and pinion. Mine has a slow leak where it's crimped on the top end. I got quoted 800 for the dealership to do it with 5 hours of labor. They also said they have to drop the back to the cradle to install it. I'm wondering if I do it myself if it's possible to install without dropping it and also if anybody has any tips on how to change it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Can't answer your question (do you have to drop subframe...), but here's a video link for doing the job on an Odyssey. It should give you a feeling for the level of difficulty... I have no clue as to how similar (or not) this is to the RL. Good Luck.

I'm also seeing that there are multiple hoses in the system. The SM doesn't say a lot about hose replacement... but for the one you're asking about, it doesn't look that difficult (hope you get someone who's done it to respond). I will say that dropping the subframe IS called for when replacing the PS gearbox.... but you're not doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply and the video seems similar so thank you for that as well. I haven't had a chance to put it on the lift yet but from what I can tell the hose that needs to be replaced is part # 53713-sjc-a02. Its does look a little tight trying to go through the underside but I'm wondering if maybe it can be somewhat done from the top.
 

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I'd go with "tight" from the bottom (especially if you have a lift) before I'd try accessing from up above. The top part you can do from above, of course, but the bottom I'd do from the bottom. Just my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info, I still have to order parts n stuff but it's a pretty slow leak I just want fixed before it gets worse.
 

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Did you (or anyone) end up replaceing the pressure hose? Doesn't look like I can reach from above or below. Not sure what all is involved with dropping the cradle or if it's necessary.
 

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I replaced that hose today. One of the most complicate DIY project I have done to my 2007 Ridgeline. Timing belt replacement with water pump and everything included in the 100K was easier than replacing this PS hose. Dealers have a reason to charge that much.Think twice if you planning to do this yourself, be honest with you about your expertise level.No need to drop the subframe or remove any part except for the old hose. The connection to the rack and pinion should be accessed from the top, but you literally have to lay on the motor to reach that connection with your arm, no room to access it from the bottom or from the side taking off the wheel. Everything else should be done from the bottom, except close to the pump of course. Good luck!
 

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I'm thinking about replacing my steering hose and saw your post. Would you please give me some more information or pointers about how to do this. Thanks!
 

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Hello, I replaced mine yesterday. I am making video guide as well, but it will take probably at least a week to edit it and upload it. To me its a lot easier than replacing rack and pinion. You don't need to drop the subframe, but you will need to remove passenger side wheel. First, make sure you have crowfoot, you won't be able to remove the high pressure connector that goes into rack and pinion without it (I think its 19mm). Once that connector is removed, remove 10mm bolt that is attached to metal clamp (not far from the connector). Once that is done, look through passenger wheel opening, there is another metal clamp secured by 10mm bolt. Remove the bolt. Also remove pressure switch connection. Once all that is removed, on the top, remove the connector into the pump. Once that is done, I feed hose from top to the passenger wheel opening and removed whole hose through the passenger wheel opening. When its out, you'll have to transfer pressure sensor to new hose. You NEED thin head wrench or something with thin head as the nut on the sensor is very thin. I also transferred metal clamp from old to new hose. Then put everything back in. When all back, double check everything for leaks and definitely use HONDA power steering fluid, it is a must. Also I recommend using OEM power steering hose, I found it on amazon for $99. Let me know if you have any questions. Like i said, it will take me awhile to upload video guide, but eventually it will be posted.
 

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By the way, for comparison, it took me 3-4 days (maybe even more) to do the rack and pinion. I did the high pressure hose in one day. Also, MAKE SURE you find where the leak is. It could be rack and pinion, could be high pressure hose, or could be pressure sensor. Double check or you may have to do more repairs for nothing.
 

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By the way, for comparison, it took me 3-4 days (maybe even more) to do the rack and pinion. I did the high pressure hose in one day. Also, MAKE SURE you find where the leak is. It could be rack and pinion, could be high pressure hose, or could be pressure sensor. Double check or you may have to do more repairs for nothing.
Did you ever get that video put together? The dealer quoted me $2,045 to replace the power steering high pressure hose and pump. They said they would need to drop the subframe and transfer case.
 

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I just now copied files from camera to computer. Will be starting on working on it soon, but I'll be on vacation for 5 days too. It will take me some time, but I'll get on it right after vacation. Sorry, If you'll wait on it before I do the video let me know so that I'll rush.
 

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Here is video guide for high pressure hose replacement.

Y
Here is also a video on replacing high pressure switch, there is a chance that yours is leaking so check it out before replacing the hose.

Switch Replacement
I changed the high pressure hose this weekend. It's an all day job dirty job (hose has been oozing for a while) that I spread over two afternoons. The video was very helpful.
I would suggest that you should only attempt this of you have slim forearms and strong fingers. It's hard to get your arms through the maze of hoses and brackets whilst you are lying on the motor. I removed two brackets mounted to the edge firewall for more clearance. Getting the two 10mm screws out from the hose brackets takes a lot of time and patience. The driver's side bracket required every socket extension I own. A thin 10mm box end ratchet is useful on the passenger side bracket. I cut off the hose close to the PS fitting using a small pipe cutter (this is where the strong fingers come in) so I could use a box end 19mm wrench to remove the old fitting which I expected to put up a fight. There's not enough space for the pipe cutter to go around the tube, but if partly cut, wiggling tube from the passenger side will break the tube at the weak point. Getting the 10mm bracket screws back into the captive nuts is a real challenge. I used a wire wheel to clean all the bolt threads and ground the ends of the bracket bolts into a bit of point to help guide them into the threaded hole. Check with a 10mm nut that the bolt thread is clean will start easily.
Threading the hard line wasn't too bad. From underneath I snaked it in from the passenger side upside down, and pulled it far towards the driver's side, flipped it over and pulled it back to the passenger side. Hard to describe. There were moments of worry wondering how I would get it back out if the first attempt didn't work.

Bruce
 

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Thank you for this thread and the linked video, they were invaluable! This was a hell of a job that took me 5 or 6 hours over a few days. Much time spent trying to find and then test appropriate tools, and then undoing and doing up nuts with only miliimeter twists at a time. But, it worked!

A crows foot ratchet head was needed to remove and install the drivers side of the pressure line. A hand wrench didn't have enough swing action to do more than crack the nut loose. The replacement hose nut was 18mm while the old one coming off was 19mm. I ended up using 3/4" because couldn't find metric. It was a bit nerve wracking because of the loose fit but I succeeded without rounding the nut..

Tip: re-install the pressure sensor before feeding the hose all the way through and fastening the drivers' side. I did the pressure sensor last, which made it harder than necessary.

I wasn't successful in refastening the lower mounts so I used zip ties instead (outdoor rated), being careful not to overtighten and thus cut or crimp the low pressure line.

...

FWIW, I think what blew the line in the first place was cranking the steering wheel tight for extended periods. I was teaching a teen to drive on ice, drifting in circles, and the pad was smaller than it should have been.
 
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