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Discussion Starter #1
Just got an oil change and then the mechanic discovered that my 06 Ridgeline (110K miles) needs the following:

Front & rear sway bar link pins - $390 for all 4 installed (what the....)
Frt axles leaking grease - $290 for each side installed
Complete brakes and rotors - $ 650 installed

History of my Ridgeline - haven't had any previous issues with sway bar link pins ever. Noticed the grease ont he front axles and it was fairly liberal around the axles. I've had rotors done once before, and as they typically need to be done at 50K miles or so this probably needs to be fixed. The prices just seem astronomical for all of this work. Pretty sure sway bar link pins are like $20/each max.....
Anyone else think these prices are insane? :act018:
 

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We can't see where you're from Pwn, so it's hard to say what you might be seeing, depending on where you live (salt on roads, etc.).

But the best way to know if you're getting hosed is to just take it to another reputable independent garage & ask them to check things out & see what they say. If they DON'T cite those same issues at first, then ask them to take a look specifically at those areas to give you an opinion, and even a quote if they say they're marginal.

"Typically" you shouldn't be needing axles at this point, but if you have boots torn & leaking grease, you may want to consider them anyway (pretty expensive to just change the boots). Brakes & rotors should be easy to get competitive quotes. And the sway bar end links can be a common problem (more about age than miles I think), depending on where you live & road conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply! I'm in Chicago and typically driving about 20K miles a year lately. The salt is pretty bad and there are a LOT of potholes near where I live in the city unfortunately.... I'm guessing that's how my sway bars got messed up. I try to drive carefully around them but it can be rough. Anyway, thanks again I'll go check out some more garages.
 

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Your quoted prices actually don't seem that unreasonable. All the issues you have, have needed to be addressed on my 06 with 120k on it except for the rear stabilizer end links.

I'm a DIY person but . . .

650 for all 4 corners including rotors? Parts alone would be around that number with OEM stuff

Front axles are about 160 OEM each and maybe half that for aftermarket, It at least and hour each side IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. $290 would be a good price for OEM axles. Don't be surprised if he says your front control arm compliance bushings are in bad shape. Mine need to be done soon. . .

Endlinks can be had for between $30 and $60 each depending on OEM or aftermarket. They typically need to be cut off which is a PIA. $390 for all four seems OK.

Basically your repair person doesn't seem like a RIP off artist to me but I can't look at your truck myself. Perhaps you should take a closer look and have the issues shown / explained to you from underneath the truck?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Your quoted prices actually don't seem that unreasonable. All the issues you have, have needed to be addressed on my 06 with 120k on it except for the rear stabilizer end links.

I'm a DIY person but . . .

650 for all 4 corners including rotors? Parts alone would be around that number with OEM stuff

Front axles are about 160 OEM each and maybe half that for aftermarket, It at least and hour each side IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING. $290 would be a good price for OEM axles. Don't be surprised if he says your front control arm compliance bushings are in bad shape. Mine need to be done soon. . .

Endlinks can be had for between $30 and $60 each depending on OEM or aftermarket. They typically need to be cut off which is a PIA. $390 for all four seems OK.

Basically your repair person doesn't seem like a RIP off artist to me but I can't look at your truck myself. Perhaps you should take a closer look and have the issues shown / explained to you from underneath the truck?
'

I really appreciate the detailed explanation :). The garage typically has done a good job in the past at illustrating what's wrong with my vehicle when there is a problem. The oil leak thing was for sure obvious. Anyway, thanks again everyone!!
 

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No disagreement on the "price" issue Eurban. I was thinking the OP was wondering if he was getting directed to change out things that didn't need replacing. (new brake rotors come to mind as a 1st indicator to be suspicious). So the "ripoff" question in my mind was the typical "you need a new ___" when you really don't need it.
 

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I have had issues with pulsating brakes (from "warped or glazed rotors") since about 40k. Problem is resolved by turning or replacing the rotors till the next 40k miles or so. I do LOTS of stop and go type driving in my 06, frequently with a decent load.

Basically, in my experience, rotor problems are common on my Ridge.

Also, like I said, all the items his mechanic has mentioned have been things that I have personally had go wrong with my 06 (except the rear stabilizer end links)
 

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I have had issues with pulsating brakes (from "warped or glazed rotors") since about 40k. Problem is resolved by turning or replacing the rotors till the next 40k miles or so. I do LOTS of stop and go type driving in my 06, frequently with a decent load.

Basically, in my experience, rotor problems are common on my Ridge.

Also, like I said, all the items his mechanic has mentioned have been things that I have personally had go wrong with my 06 (except the rear stabilizer end links)
I'm on the original rotors with 154k miles and 10 years old. Do you maintain proper 94lb/ft of torque on the lug nuts? If the wheels are taken off by a shop, most times they'll just hammer the lugs back on with an air gun. The torque will be vastly different from lug to lug. Over time with several heat cycles, this will cause the rotor to warp, uneven pad wear and other braking issues. Every time the wheels have to come off my truck for an inspection, the first thing I do when I get it home is slightly loosen the lugs and re-torque them with a cheapo 1/2" click wrench I got at Harbor Freight. No vibrations, no wobbling, no uneven pad wear. I also clean and re-grease my slider pins once every 18 months or so, too.

OP, to me, $650 sounds like a lot for a pads and rotors if you're not getting OEM parts. Ask if you can source your own parts and have them install them. You can get a full brake kit from Rockauto that includes front and rear rotors and pads (for normal use) from Powerstop for under $200. If you want to piece together all the parts you need with, say, daily driver rotors and performance pads, you're still well under $300 for parts. It should take a shop 30 min per corner to install, so 2 hours of labor.
 
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