Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

Premium Member
3,112 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
NOTE: This applies to ALL G1 model years (’06-’14)

: Customizing and modifying a vehicle is done at your own expense. The process below is to be taken as a recommended means and not an official instructions. I am not responsible or liable for the result of your work as you assume all responsibility on work performed.

  • metallic clunk when shifting from reverse to drive
  • metallic rattling when driving and usually apparent when driving next to a Jersey barrier (Concrete median)
  • loud drone and/or vibration in the steering wheel that mimics a bad front drive axle
  • visual indication of rust, deteriorated U-joint or play in the joint itself.
Parts needed
- Honda Propeller Shaft (40100-SJC-A12) or Dorman (936-034, used in this repair): Qty – 1
o OEM propeller shaft is not a serviceable unit. Dorman uses serviceable u-joints for easy maintenance.
- U-joint Bolts (90113-S3V-A00): Qty – 8
NOTE: The propeller shaft protector bracket & its bolts can be reused

Tools Needed

  • 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, wrenches and sockets
  • Torque wrench
  • Breaker bar
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • Impact drive wrench
  • Liquid penetrant (WD40, Liquid Wrench, etc)
  • Jack stands (at least two)
  • Bottle jack or lift
  • Tire chucks
NOTE: it is easier to do it with a hydraulic lift, but can be easily done while on the ground.

Install Time:

  • 2-hrs approx. without a post lift
  • 1-hr approx. with a post lift
Instructions. (Using the bottle jack & jack stand method)


  • Park the vehicle on a level ground, engage the parking brake, and chuck the leading and trailing side of the rear tires.
  • Use the bottle jack on the front driver side and raise the vehicle enough so that the driver side front tire is off the ground.
  • Secure the jack with a jack stand.
  • Set the vehicle in neutral and ensure it is secured and does not move.
  • Use liquid penetrant on all bolts of the protector brackets and U-Joints.
  • Place a jack stand on the front portion of the propeller shaft close to the front U-joint to gently support it. It need not be flushed against the propeller shaft. The propeller shaft’s tube must be centered on the ‘cup’ of the jack stand.
  • Remove the bolts that hold both the propeller shaft protector brackets in place
  • Remove the four bolts that hold the propeller shaft to the transfer case. You could grab the propeller shaft and rotate it (with the driver side tire off the ground & vehicle in Neutral) to reach the other bolts. Hold the U-joint and gently pull it back to dislodge the joint from the flange and lower it to the ground.
  • Remove the two bolts that hold the center bearing in place. You may need to move the jack stand a bit closer to this part as to not let the shaft hang as you loosen the bolts. If the bolts are removed without support the shaft, you may either strip the bolt threads or get injured by the sudden drop.
  • Slide the jack stand towards the rear U-joint and remove the four bolts. You can spin the joint easily by grasping the propeller shaft and rotating it.
  • Clean the mating surface flange on both the center transfer case and rear differential using a wire brush.

  • Install the rear U-joint with the four new bolts and snug it, do not torque it yet.
  • Install the center bearing by reusing the old bolts and snug them, do not torque it yet.
  • When attempting to install the front U-joint, you may find the U-joint not reaching the flange on the center transfer (technically called the transfer companion flange). Gently pull on the U-joint in the direction of the transmission and then mate it to the flange. Snug the four new bolts in.
  • Torque the 8 (eight) new U-joint bolts to 53 ft-lbs.
  • Torque the center bearing bolts to 29 ft-lbs
  • Install the propeller shaft protector brackets and torque the bolts to 16 ft-lbs.
You are all done at this point.
Pictures (Click to Enlarge)

Bad U-Joints

(The ones with the rust are the rear U-joint and the last one is the front U-joint of the OEM propeller shaft with approx 295K miles)

New Dorman 936-034 propeller shaft
(install pictures and finished product)

Super Moderator
6,940 Posts
Dang, impressed @smufguy, so that’s what you have been up to.
Nice work and even nicer documentation. :D

Premium Member
3,112 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Dang, impressed @smufguy, so that’s what you have been up to.
Nice work and even nicer documentation. :D
Thanks Carsmak. I changed this on June 25th and never got around to do a how-to,though I had taken all the pictures. Funny thing is that it took me almost 40% of the replacement time in writing the how-to.
I am still working on how-to of my major suspension change (that only you are aware of as of now) and that took me almost 8 hrs start to finish. :oops:

Super Moderator
6,940 Posts
Well, dang Smufguy, I knew you were shopping suspension components but didn’t realize that you had both purchased and installed it...

Chop, chop, I need new G1 topics to read, envy and admire.
1 - 5 of 5 Posts