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Pulled the trigger...what did I mess up?

6K views 18 replies 8 participants last post by  JRalphers 
#1 ·
I starting reading these boards two weeks ago and knew nothing about tires/wheels/lifts when I started. I didn't realize how hard it would be to find the right combo for me. For better or worse I made a decision and everything is on order to be installed next week. There's so much information on this board it would take me a year to go though it. Pease tell me of any potential issues I should bring up to the installers since very few people have experience working on Ridgelines around here.

2017 Black Edition

Truxxx 1.5 leveling kit

Black Rhino Barstow 17x8 30mm offset

Continental Terrain Contact A/T 255/65/17

I remember reading something about adjusting the camber -.5 degrees when doing the lift but I can't seem to find that post again.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Check the "Recommended Reading" at the bottom of this thread for some of the information you might be looking for.

My personal opinion is that Honda spent a lot of R&D developing the Ridgeline to work as a complete package albeit with compromises for comfort/safety/clean operation. That said, I have had a personal automotive history of fixing schit that ain't broke with the resultant consequences. I think your modifications are modest and the result shouldn't be negative but there have been some reports of drive and handling issue with suspension/wheel modifications. Your result may vary.
 
#3 ·
Doing anything that is non OEM Accessory on a vehicle that is under 5 years old/has majority of its warranty still intact, is always against my book. So is lift. I have watched too many raised vehicles handle funky and given that they always perform poor than their OEM counterparts, I do not advocate lifting a truck. Many argue that it is a personal choice, but for me it is safety. I would much rather lower a vehicle and lower its roll center & center of mass, rather than raise it and increase the roll over factor.

I believe leveling kits are different than lift kits, but have not cared much about them to look into it deeply.
255/65/17 is a 30.1" tire and the max one would run on OEM setup is a 245/70/17, which is a 30.5" tire. So the diameter is fine on your setup. However, what concerns me is the +30mm offset. I am not sure if I would want to venture past +35mm offset. If it was me, I would not go past +40mm offset, since I am already deviating around +15mm from OEM. A lot of times, this is a numbers game; what works for you, may not work for others as they have a different tire profile or suspension setup.Depending on who your installer is, it would be wise to have them take responsibility on the R&D of it. If it rubs, you want the shop to switch out to a different wheel/tire package with no cost to you.

Customization has its perils, so be cautious. Good luck.
 
#4 ·
However, what concerns me is the +30mm offset. I am not sure if I would want to venture past +35mm offset. If it was me, I would not go past +40mm offset, since I am already deviating around +15mm from OEM.
Thanks for your input. Is that 35 mm limit documented anywhere as an acceptable deviation or just a rule of thumb people are using? With a 255 on a 30 offset my outer edge will be the same as a 265 on a 35 offset and the inner edge is that same as a 245 with a 35 offset. I’m not sure if that means anything but if those combos are safe maybe this is too?
 
#6 ·
I lifted my "06" and Truxx sent the new specs for alignment with the kit just give it to alignment guy. That said I kept the stock wheels on for the 13 years I had it, so couldnt tell you if a different offset wheel changes that. Truxx is very good if you have questions on there lift, and parts if needed. I had to buy new links after 8 years and had it aligned after any new tire purchase (twice) never had a issue. Just make sure your install is done by someone you trust. Mine was done by a 4x4 shop that installs lifts all the time.
 
#7 · (Edited)
All these number combos are enough to make your head explode.

Another measurement I haven’t seen discussed is wheel width. I initially was set on 245/70/17 but they have a rim width range of 6.5-8” still acceptable for the 17/8 wheels I wanted but I didn’t want my tires at their max allowed width. I changed to 255/65/17 that puts me right in the middle of their 7-9” rim width.
 
#8 ·
All these number combos are enough to make your head explode.

Another measurement I haven’t seen discussed is wheel width. I initially was set on 245/70/17 but they have a rim width range of 6.5-8” still acceptable for the 17/8 wheels I wanted but I didn’t want my tires at their max allowed width. I changed to 255/65/17 that puts me right in the middle of their 7-9” rim width.
Maybe not in this thread, but it has been discussed many times. The recommended wheel width changes from tire manufacturer to another. the same width tire, 245/255/265, could have a different recommendation on the widths. Looking up the tire manufacturer's website and selecting the tire size you prefer, would have the table for the recommended wheel width.
 
#11 ·
Another thing to consider is that the Barstows in the 17x8 size come in at 32lbs a wheel. Your stock wheels are around 25lbs at the most so you are adding enough unsprung weight to have a modest (negative) impact on things like ride, acceleration, handling and fuel economy. . . .
 
#12 ·
I appreciate all the feedback. I've definitely learned that customizations are all about compromises. There is no perfect set up. I'm glad to see that "modest" has come up a couple times. That's what I was going for. I may be pushing some comfort levels a little but I'm not going crazy. Another thing to consider is driving habits. I'm a speed limit driver with lots of space between the cars ahead of me, and I may only go off road a couple times in Florida the flattest state in the US.

This set up is 11 lbs per wheel over OEM or an increase of 19% in load. I don't know much about cars and suspensions but I do know some things about airplanes after 21 years of flying them. Weight limits of airplanes are set at 30% below the beginnings of metal fatigue. I'm guessing there is a similar safety margin built into what the struts can handle.

Keep the inputs coming.
 
#17 ·
I appreciate all the feedback. I've definitely learned that customizations are all about compromises. There is no perfect set up. I'm glad to see that "modest" has come up a couple times. That's what I was going for. I may be pushing some comfort levels a little but I'm not going crazy. Another thing to consider is driving habits. I'm a speed limit driver with lots of space between the cars ahead of me, and I may only go off road a couple times in Florida the flattest state in the US.

This set up is 11 lbs per wheel over OEM or an increase of 19% in load. I don't know much about cars and suspensions but I do know some things about airplanes after 21 years of flying them. Weight limits of airplanes are set at 30% below the beginnings of metal fatigue. I'm guessing there is a similar safety margin built into what the struts can handle.

Keep the inputs coming.
Unsprung weight and in particular rotational mass is more than just a suspension issue. You will pay a price in acceleration, braking and fuel economy. Tire weight will have the greatest impact as it is rotational weight that farthest from the center. 11lbs per wheel is actually a fairly significant weight gain for a vehicle the size of the Ridgeline. Definitely expect some noticeable impact on driving dynamics, acceleration and economy.

If you choose AT tires you will almost cetainly experience greater rolling resistance which will impact fuel economy as well.
 
#14 ·
@Goos3 ; you do not have to worry about fatigue but need to be aware of rotational mass. Unlike the airplane suspended in air where weight balance and differences become apparent, vehicles' 4 tires are on the ground. Due to the increased corner loads, you will experience varied shock stroking and the compression and rebound on the OEM struts/springs will feel different. Since you seem to be a docile driver, the difference would not be aggravated unlike someone that is me and the way I drive. I believe you would be just fine.
 
#15 ·
^^^One has to wonder what range of performance Honda built in to the RL suspension. It would be unreasonable for them to assume that all owners will choose replacement tires that weigh exactly the same as the stock Firestones. I would think the suspension tuning is designed to accomodate some amount of variation in tire weight, but there's no simple way to know how much increase in rotational mass or unspring weight the truck can take on without noticeable changes in handling or performance characteristics. For insight on that, all we have to go on is the subjective experiences of Forum members, which is better than nothing I guess. Certainly Honda had to consider a range of other conditions that would challenge the suspension, most notably payload and towing weights.
 
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