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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy
Not sure if this should go under another section but headlights are on the exterior...
My driver side headlight recently went out and I was going to just have it replaced but realised i always wanted badass aftermarket xenons so now seems like a good time
i was wondering what the brightest kind of bulb is and what company is reputable, how they last, what i need etc etc
please share with me if you have aftermarket lights, i pretty much want the brightest lights and the more blue the better.
thankkkkkss
brandon
 

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You can't have "the brightest lights" and have more "blue tint".

The closest to 4100k the brighter the bulb.

Phillips 81522+ are regarded as the brightest DS2 bulbs available if you do a full HID conversion. (with bi-xenon projector), ballast, ignitor and relay...


However, the H4 halogen housing is quite efficient. Using the brightest available halogen bulb (again 4100k) you will achieve better light output then if you did a "hid kit"

In any event you should know that the Ridgeine's reflector housings are DOT approved for H4 bulbs... nothing else.

You can not have a blue / purple tint bulb and have it be as bright as a 4100k white bulb.

The brighter the halogen bulb (Silverstar Ultra) the shorter the life expectancy.

I think I hit the main points...
 

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Ya, that's the only problem with aftermarket bulbs. They just don't last! Now saying that, it's too bad your stock one only lasted as long as it did!

P.S your thread should read aftermarket Bulbs, not headlights!:act035:
 

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Howdy
Not sure if this should go under another section but headlights are on the exterior...
My driver side headlight recently went out and I was going to just have it replaced but realised i always wanted badass aftermarket xenons so now seems like a good time
i was wondering what the brightest kind of bulb is and what company is reputable, how they last, what i need etc etc
please share with me if you have aftermarket lights, i pretty much want the brightest lights and the more blue the better.
thankkkkkss
brandon
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-3913.html

These GE Nighthawks are not Xenon but they are brighter and clearer than the OEM. Consumer Reports ranked them high for the Ridgeline. They do not last as long as OEM but are easy to replace when they die.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You can't have "the brightest lights" and have more "blue tint".

The closest to 4100k the brighter the bulb.

Phillips 81522+ are regarded as the brightest DS2 bulbs available if you do a full HID conversion. (with bi-xenon projector), ballast, ignitor and relay...


However, the H4 halogen housing is quite efficient. Using the brightest available halogen bulb (again 4100k) you will achieve better light output then if you did a "hid kit"

In any event you should know that the Ridgeine's reflector housings are DOT approved for H4 bulbs... nothing else.

You can not have a blue / purple tint bulb and have it be as bright as a 4100k white bulb.

The brighter the halogen bulb (Silverstar Ultra) the shorter the life expectancy.

I think I hit the main points...
i guess i was wondering what are the pros and cons to and hid kit and a halogen bulb? also what does dot approved only mean? and is a hid kit much more expensive than the other type?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I read a bunch about the ge nighthawk and im going to go with that, but what are the specs for the honda ridgeline, is h4 h11 ? im confused! help!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I read a bunch about the ge nighthawk and im going to go with that, but what are the specs for the honda ridgeline, is h4 h11 ? im confused! help!
also how do people like the piaa white bulb
?
 

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I have the GE Nighthawks and love them.
 

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I have 6000k HID kit it was an easy install. The higher the number the more blue the light will be. So a 10,000k kit would have a blue tint. They're very bright. Its like night and day compared to the originals. They cost me $80 for the entire kit and 30mins to install. If you don't want to get high beamed all the time don't get HID's. Hope some of this helps
 

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I have a set of Nokya lights on Arctic White and they are amazing!!! for $30 bucks.
 

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I've always run Sylvania silverstar ultra and very pleased with them.
 

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I have a set of Nokya lights on Arctic White and they are amazing!!! for $30 bucks.
Two reasons to be careful with any non-OEM bulbs:

1. The filament position may not be identical. Even if there's more total light output, an altered beam pattern will always be inferior to the carefully controlled original patter. It will also probably be out of legal compliance.

2. Wiring, connectors, fuses, and other circuitry may not be able to properly accommodate bulbs of higher power than the stock equipment. For the same supply voltage, these 90W bulbs will draw 1.5 times the current of the stock 60W bulbs, or an extra 2.5 A @ 12 V. The two possible problems there are overheating, and lower local supply voltages due to the increased current draw.

Might be fine on all counts... but these things are important to check anytime you replace bulbs with non-OEM equipment. I have had both of these problems (on my old truck, not my RL). The blue-tinted bulbs are particularly likely to have the second problem, since the tint is created by increasing the power, then using a filter to reduce power at unwanted wavelengths.
 

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Two reasons to be careful with any non-OEM bulbs:

1. The filament position may not be identical. Even if there's more total light output, an altered beam pattern will always be inferior to the carefully controlled original patter. It will also probably be out of legal compliance.

2. Wiring, connectors, fuses, and other circuitry may not be able to properly accommodate bulbs of higher power than the stock equipment. For the same supply voltage, these 90W bulbs will draw 1.5 times the current of the stock 60W bulbs, or an extra 2.5 A @ 12 V. The two possible problems there are overheating, and lower local supply voltages due to the increased current draw.

Might be fine on all counts... but these things are important to check anytime you replace bulbs with non-OEM equipment. I have had both of these problems (on my old truck, not my RL). The blue-tinted bulbs are particularly likely to have the second problem, since the tint is created by increasing the power, then using a filter to reduce power at unwanted wavelengths.
I have used higher wattage bulbs for years. The thing you have to keep in mind when using higher wattage bulb is that you MUST use the high temp harness to protect the OEM wiring. Otherwise, you will have overheating problems.



i am running nokya arctic white (7000k) in the headlights; fogs are OEM so you can see the difference, have the fogs in transit now
 

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Two reasons to be careful with any non-OEM bulbs:

1. The filament position may not be identical. Even if there's more total light output, an altered beam pattern will always be inferior to the carefully controlled original patter. It will also probably be out of legal compliance.

2. Wiring, connectors, fuses, and other circuitry may not be able to properly accommodate bulbs of higher power than the stock equipment. For the same supply voltage, these 90W bulbs will draw 1.5 times the current of the stock 60W bulbs, or an extra 2.5 A @ 12 V. The two possible problems there are overheating, and lower local supply voltages due to the increased current draw.

Might be fine on all counts... but these things are important to check anytime you replace bulbs with non-OEM equipment. I have had both of these problems (on my old truck, not my RL). The blue-tinted bulbs are particularly likely to have the second problem, since the tint is created by increasing the power, then using a filter to reduce power at unwanted wavelengths.
Same here!! I have used higher wattage bulbs for over 10 years and NEVER had a single problem. :act035:
 

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Be careful with how bright you go. If it's too bright, it becomes dangerous to oncoming traffic.

Those blue lights to me are annoying and should be illegal. You can't possibly see with those lights..
 

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I run the Sylvania Silverstars in all my vehicles including the bike. Other than a shorter than OEM life span My wife and I love them. I did try a set of Luminics in the Ridge when I brought it home but they only lasted about 4 months so stay away from them by all means.
 

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I have 6000k HID kit it was an easy install. The higher the number the more blue the light will be. So a 10,000k kit would have a blue tint. They're very bright. Its like night and day compared to the originals. They cost me $80 for the entire kit and 30mins to install. If you don't want to get high beamed all the time don't get HID's. Hope some of this helps
I highly doubt you bought an HID kit for $80. I have seen aftermarket bulbs that are higher wattage and come with some sort of harness, that are incorrectly/maliciously labeled as HID kits on fle-bay. Did your kit come with xenon bulbs, ballast, and harness?

When I was younger I tried all sorts of different bulbs for the cool factor, but when it comes down to it, the more blue/purple/green(yeah, I've even seen those) the less usable light you'll have. Once I went true HID, I've never gone back. All my vehicles have to have HID.

I haven't had anybody flash me with their high beams, even though I have HID's on my RL. I am planning on doing a proper conversion to projectors from the retrofit source.
 

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hello;

If you want the whitest white, you have to get bulbs in the 5000 to 6000 heat range.the more purple the light doesnt mean the the brightest, there actually dimmer looking. I have the the 6000 heat sig range bulbs. there very cheap on ebay (around $5.00) apiece. Ive had my set in for more than 2 years and still burning. buy a extra pair when you buy them.that way you have backups. picture enclosed
wrapper
 

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