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@trentj1234: A lot of the process is part of regular maintenance. Vehicles with over 150K or over 7 years, would start to show their age in areas where there is a lot of use and action. In this case, the cooling system. Typically, in most cases, the rubber hoses and plastics on the end tanks of the radiator, start to lose their integrity slowly. At that point, you are sitting on a time bomb.

Truth be told, you can essentially do this whole process for the similar financial exposure of four new rotors and pads.

When I changed mine couple of years ago, I believe I had 190K miles on it and the radiator looked fine. Since I use the truck heavily and take trips from NJ to Canada and SC often and also commute around 60mi a day, it was an investment for me. I did not see any potential for failures on mine when I replaced it and the temps have always stayed around the 170/175deg on the coolant.
I guess at 320,000 miles on my 2006 RTL, and my radiator just now showing wear, I can't complain, lol.
 

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Welcome to ROC.

If you are sitting on a time bomb with no fancy digital count down, just because it has not blown yet, I am not going to say I cant complain; if you see what I mean.
You could be the only one who has been safe until now and thus lucky, but nothing to find comfort it.

For me, few hundred dollars and few hours of work, I know I can rest easy.
make no mistake, I will be replacing, I have a lot more miles to put on this one. And since the new Ridgelines look feminized to me, I can't upgrade t a newer model.
 

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While on the subject, it appears the mouse in my trunk that originally brought me to this forum, lol, broke my odometer and I no longer can read my mileage. My mechanic didn't even bother to offer to troubleshoot, any insights on where to start and if a novice mechanic aka a 71' Roadrunner mechanic might even have the skills to replace the cluster and or radiator himself?
 

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You have no other issues? No check engine light or weird behavior? The gauge cluster on these trucks, from what we been told, is not just an easy swap in and drive. You can do a gamble on getting a cheap working one off Ebay or a salvage yard and see if it behaves just fine. I am under the impression that once the cluster is swapped, the PCM needs to be programmed. @zroger73 , can you confirm this> (my memory is a bit sluggish now).

Changing the radiator is not hard, but it is messy so make sure you have a water hose, rags and buckets/pans available to catch the coolant.
I had just flipped to 15% on the maintenance on 1k road trip and tried to get around a suburu blocking traffic in the fast lane when the engine cut lost power on acceleration. the check engine light came on along with the VTM-4 light. Pulled over and did not see anything leaking, drove the remaining 10 miles home and took i to the shop 2 days later. Maintenance was a B6 and it turned out I was low on oil and the accelerator mash sent sludge into the oil sensor and caused the drop in power. None of this has to do with the display, after the service I was driving home is when I noticed the odometer was reading flat lines. Went back on Friday when the correct oil sensor was in and asked about the odometer and was told they could not get a mileage reading cause it was not working. They failed to ask me about this. They also didn't offer much on fixing it. So between youtube and Internet research, the recommendation I was able to come up with was Tanin Auto Electronix Replacement LCD Screen | 2006-2008 Honda Ridgeline Instrument Cluster | Odometer Display Screen which I found on Amazon for $75.00. I know the odometer was working on my last fill up Sunday, sometime between then and Tuesday it died.
I am purchasing hoses, clamps etc. Any suggestions on what to use to block off the AT cooling lines?
 

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Done!! I was trying to figure out where I could install an oil pressure gauge, cause I really have never been a fan of idiot lights, thank you for that tip.
 

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First off, it would be in your best interest to own an OBD2 scanner that is bluetooth. Many are available online, and I use this >> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This helps you to learn more about what the trouble could be, prior to relying on someone else.

Low oil is an issue and being that low in oil, should have given you an oil warning light. When I do my oil changes, I change out oil and filter and if you are doing the same, rather than doing the recommended one through the MM, then you should have been fine with the sludge. The PCV valve is something that many never change. I changed mine last year and I already had over 230K miles on it. I noticed a ton of build up on the front bank valve train and valve cover, than the rear bank. If you had not changed it, I would say change it out.

The Odometer reading can be picked up from the PCM if I am not mistaken. My old OBD scan tool picked up my VIN and ODO automatically. If you are not getting any ODO reading, but your speed and RPM are fine, then disconnect the battery completely, wait few minutes and reconnect it (if you are using stock entertainment unit, keep the code handy). I wont jump into buying any LCD panels yet as the problem is not the panel as it is displaying everything else (I presume).

What do you mean block off the ATF cooling lines? I just left mine unhooked and just caught the drips on a pan. I was changing my ATF anyway, so it did not matter what drained out. Changing out those old rubber lines with a 3/8" braided rubber hose meant for Transmission fluid. Either reuse the OEM clamps or use a fuel hose clamp.
Correct, the rest of the instrument panel is working, it is only the odometer. Will try disconnecting the power

up until this point, the dealership has been the only mechanic to touch my truck. Up until this last visit I have no complaints. This has been the most economical 320k miles I could have imagined and I am a lead foot, this truck cruises at 90 and I have a hard time keeping below that speed.
Clamping AT lines was to prevent drainage, it would be just as easy to refill. I was thinking about changing out the lines, you just made up my mind, will do.

Working on my roadrunner is one thing, I am a moderate mechanic at best, so, taking my Ridgeline apart is a bit intimidating. After the last service, it is going to be happening more often
 

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You should consider a new radiator if you've upgraded the car engine to produce more power. A more powerful engine gives out more heat so it will need an upgraded radiator to handle the higher heat output effectively. A properly maintained radiator should last at least 3 years, and up to 8-10 years.
I have not upgraded the engine, replacing the radiator is a necessity at this point.
 

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Correct, the rest of the instrument panel is working, it is only the odometer. Will try disconnecting the power

up until this point, the dealership has been the only mechanic to touch my truck. Up until this last visit I have no complaints. This has been the most economical 320k miles I could have imagined and I am a lead foot, this truck cruises at 90 and I have a hard time keeping below that speed.
Clamping AT lines was to prevent drainage, it would be just as easy to refill. I was thinking about changing out the lines, you just made up my mind, will do.

Working on my roadrunner is one thing, I am a moderate mechanic at best, so, taking my Ridgeline apart is a bit intimidating. After the last service, it is going to be happening more often
First off, it would be in your best interest to own an OBD2 scanner that is bluetooth. Many are available online, and I use this >> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This helps you to learn more about what the trouble could be, prior to relying on someone else.

Low oil is an issue and being that low in oil, should have given you an oil warning light. When I do my oil changes, I change out oil and filter and if you are doing the same, rather than doing the recommended one through the MM, then you should have been fine with the sludge. The PCV valve is something that many never change. I changed mine last year and I already had over 230K miles on it. I noticed a ton of build up on the front bank valve train and valve cover, than the rear bank. If you had not changed it, I would say change it out.

The Odometer reading can be picked up from the PCM if I am not mistaken. My old OBD scan tool picked up my VIN and ODO automatically. If you are not getting any ODO reading, but your speed and RPM are fine, then disconnect the battery completely, wait few minutes and reconnect it (if you are using stock entertainment unit, keep the code handy). I wont jump into buying any LCD panels yet as the problem is not the panel as it is displaying everything else (I presume).

What do you mean block off the ATF cooling lines? I just left mine unhooked and just caught the drips on a pan. I was changing my ATF anyway, so it did not matter what drained out. Changing out those old rubber lines with a 3/8" braided rubber hose meant for Transmission fluid. Either reuse the OEM clamps or use a fuel hose clamp.
Disconnected both terminals on my batter for about an hour, reconnected and still have no odometer reading, maintenance minder reads 100% and all the other gauges are working
 

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Time to track down whats preventing the display from working. Use an OBD reader to see what is happening. If no home solutions are found, then you may need to get some professional help on this.
I ordered the oen you recommended, and it has arrived at my Amazon locker, will pick up shortly. can you point me in the direction as to where I plug it in?
 

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I received the ODBII connected it and it found nothing. No codes, no apparent wrnings, being I am still learning to use this thing I could be missing something obvious. I have however lost my back up cam since my last post and it occurred to me that on my road trip 2 weeks ago, 100 miles were spent on NF-30 and NF-90, otherwise known as national forest routes. While they were paved, they were pretty darn bumpy so I am thinking I just loosened things up under the dash. Will pull apart today and see what I can find. Tackling the radiator tomorrow. Any advice or instructions on either task would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The most irritating thing about the odometer issue is, they always greet you at the car and get the mileage. Since covid all service related courtesies are gone. Honestly, I am surprised I did not notice the lack of odometer readings, however sunny days can be scarce in the NW so I like to enjoy the sites including a mamma bear the other day. So when I took it back on Friday and was greeted by one of the regular service managers and asked about the odometer being disconnected, he gave me a "huh."
He got in and looked and said he had never seen that before. After the service was done and I was paying, the mechanic was standing there looking confused quite frankly, the service manager asked if he tried disconnecting the battery and he said no, it would not fix it.

today, I ran the self diagnostic test a couple of times to no avail. I pulled the cluster out and frankly did not see any issues, did resolve my backup cam issue. Was thinking about trying another mechanic but at this juncture, I don't know what flashing the ECU is, flash PCs all the time, lol.

A more pressing question is, what do I need to remove to locate the coolant bleeder, need to replace radiator tomorrow and I can not see that little valve?
 

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yes, I was able to see it looking up at the passenger side rear of the block, I was behind the tire looking up, insane positioning really.
 

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That makes more sense to me, being on my 3rd timing belt, I am certain the block has been flushed a time or two. What is fascinating is the hoses appear to be original after 320k miles. the position of the clamps were completely inaccessible, ended up cutting both ends of the hoes just to remove, they were seared on. ATF coolant lines looked to be the same, replacing those as well. The funny part is, the engine has never even gotten hot, much less overheated. Thank you to all of you for the info, much appreciated. This makes my Roadrunner engine seem like a walk in the park
 

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I ran the self diagnostics feature 3 or 4 times and I never received any error messages. The odometer / trip meter showed turned to illuminated squares vs lines. I am curious, is it possible a fuse is blown? I was looking though the manual for the 2nd time and noticed there are far more fuses than I am accustomed to seeing, then again I stopped working on cars when I started driving Honda's in 96'.
 
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