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I’ve not replaced the radiator on my ‘13. I don’t plan to any time soon, either (~~105k miles on it now). I live in southern AZ. It’s hot and dry, apart from when it’s wet in monsoon season. (-:
I’ll inspect the fittings from time to time and replace it when it looks like it needs it. Whether I’ll replace with a Honda part or something else is something I’ll decide at that time, I guess.
 

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While on the subject, it appears the mouse in my trunk that originally brought me to this forum, lol, broke my odometer and I no longer can read my mileage. My mechanic didn't even bother to offer to troubleshoot, any insights on where to start and if a novice mechanic aka a 71' Roadrunner mechanic might even have the skills to replace the cluster and or radiator himself?
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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I have 98K on the clock. Did the TB/WP last year. The dealer never mentioned the rad, but did ask about the spark plugs. I plan on having them do both before winter this year. I'm still amazed that so many people have 120K or more on their RL's and still have confidence in their vehicle. I hope to have mine for that many and more as well.
Not sure what you are referring to in regards to having 120k or mile miles and confidence. I have 121k on mine and it might as well be new from my perspective. Changed the radiator, hoses, and thermostat, TB/WP, valve adjustment, spark plugs, etc at 120k miles. Fresh oil change along with tranny fluid, transfer assembly, rear diff and power steering. I'm ready to go another 120k miles. ;)
 
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I guess that may have come across wrong.. I've had many vehicles which I have traded in with less than adequate mileage because I just didn't trust them and was always afraid that I would be stranded. This is the first vehicle, well I did have a Highlander, so perhaps the second that I trust to have well over 100K on it. It's good to know that so many other people keep theirs as well and don't let the mileage bother them.
 
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While on the subject, it appears the mouse in my trunk that originally brought me to this forum, lol, broke my odometer and I no longer can read my mileage. My mechanic didn't even bother to offer to troubleshoot, any insights on where to start and if a novice mechanic aka a 71' Roadrunner mechanic might even have the skills to replace the cluster and or radiator himself?
You have no other issues? No check engine light or weird behavior? The gauge cluster on these trucks, from what we been told, is not just an easy swap in and drive. You can do a gamble on getting a cheap working one off Ebay or a salvage yard and see if it behaves just fine. I am under the impression that once the cluster is swapped, the PCM needs to be programmed. @zroger73 , can you confirm this> (my memory is a bit sluggish now).

Changing the radiator is not hard, but it is messy so make sure you have a water hose, rags and buckets/pans available to catch the coolant.
 

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You have no other issues? No check engine light or weird behavior? The gauge cluster on these trucks, from what we been told, is not just an easy swap in and drive. You can do a gamble on getting a cheap working one off Ebay or a salvage yard and see if it behaves just fine. I am under the impression that once the cluster is swapped, the PCM needs to be programmed. @zroger73 , can you confirm this> (my memory is a bit sluggish now).

Changing the radiator is not hard, but it is messy so make sure you have a water hose, rags and buckets/pans available to catch the coolant.
I had just flipped to 15% on the maintenance on 1k road trip and tried to get around a suburu blocking traffic in the fast lane when the engine cut lost power on acceleration. the check engine light came on along with the VTM-4 light. Pulled over and did not see anything leaking, drove the remaining 10 miles home and took i to the shop 2 days later. Maintenance was a B6 and it turned out I was low on oil and the accelerator mash sent sludge into the oil sensor and caused the drop in power. None of this has to do with the display, after the service I was driving home is when I noticed the odometer was reading flat lines. Went back on Friday when the correct oil sensor was in and asked about the odometer and was told they could not get a mileage reading cause it was not working. They failed to ask me about this. They also didn't offer much on fixing it. So between youtube and Internet research, the recommendation I was able to come up with was Tanin Auto Electronix Replacement LCD Screen | 2006-2008 Honda Ridgeline Instrument Cluster | Odometer Display Screen which I found on Amazon for $75.00. I know the odometer was working on my last fill up Sunday, sometime between then and Tuesday it died.
I am purchasing hoses, clamps etc. Any suggestions on what to use to block off the AT cooling lines?
 

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First off, it would be in your best interest to own an OBD2 scanner that is bluetooth. Many are available online, and I use this >> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This helps you to learn more about what the trouble could be, prior to relying on someone else.

Low oil is an issue and being that low in oil, should have given you an oil warning light. When I do my oil changes, I change out oil and filter and if you are doing the same, rather than doing the recommended one through the MM, then you should have been fine with the sludge. The PCV valve is something that many never change. I changed mine last year and I already had over 230K miles on it. I noticed a ton of build up on the front bank valve train and valve cover, than the rear bank. If you had not changed it, I would say change it out.

The Odometer reading can be picked up from the PCM if I am not mistaken. My old OBD scan tool picked up my VIN and ODO automatically. If you are not getting any ODO reading, but your speed and RPM are fine, then disconnect the battery completely, wait few minutes and reconnect it (if you are using stock entertainment unit, keep the code handy). I wont jump into buying any LCD panels yet as the problem is not the panel as it is displaying everything else (I presume).

What do you mean block off the ATF cooling lines? I just left mine unhooked and just caught the drips on a pan. I was changing my ATF anyway, so it did not matter what drained out. Changing out those old rubber lines with a 3/8" braided rubber hose meant for Transmission fluid. Either reuse the OEM clamps or use a fuel hose clamp.
 

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Done!! I was trying to figure out where I could install an oil pressure gauge, cause I really have never been a fan of idiot lights, thank you for that tip.
 

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No worries. Oil pressure sender, if you are talking about Engine oil, is typically done at the filter. Using a filter sandwich that has provisions for it would be best. However, ensure that the sandwich is not too thick and makes the filter impossible to remove and/or install. Some of them also have provisions for a temperature sensor.
 

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First off, it would be in your best interest to own an OBD2 scanner that is bluetooth. Many are available online, and I use this >> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This helps you to learn more about what the trouble could be, prior to relying on someone else.

Low oil is an issue and being that low in oil, should have given you an oil warning light. When I do my oil changes, I change out oil and filter and if you are doing the same, rather than doing the recommended one through the MM, then you should have been fine with the sludge. The PCV valve is something that many never change. I changed mine last year and I already had over 230K miles on it. I noticed a ton of build up on the front bank valve train and valve cover, than the rear bank. If you had not changed it, I would say change it out.

The Odometer reading can be picked up from the PCM if I am not mistaken. My old OBD scan tool picked up my VIN and ODO automatically. If you are not getting any ODO reading, but your speed and RPM are fine, then disconnect the battery completely, wait few minutes and reconnect it (if you are using stock entertainment unit, keep the code handy). I wont jump into buying any LCD panels yet as the problem is not the panel as it is displaying everything else (I presume).

What do you mean block off the ATF cooling lines? I just left mine unhooked and just caught the drips on a pan. I was changing my ATF anyway, so it did not matter what drained out. Changing out those old rubber lines with a 3/8" braided rubber hose meant for Transmission fluid. Either reuse the OEM clamps or use a fuel hose clamp.
Correct, the rest of the instrument panel is working, it is only the odometer. Will try disconnecting the power

up until this point, the dealership has been the only mechanic to touch my truck. Up until this last visit I have no complaints. This has been the most economical 320k miles I could have imagined and I am a lead foot, this truck cruises at 90 and I have a hard time keeping below that speed.
Clamping AT lines was to prevent drainage, it would be just as easy to refill. I was thinking about changing out the lines, you just made up my mind, will do.

Working on my roadrunner is one thing, I am a moderate mechanic at best, so, taking my Ridgeline apart is a bit intimidating. After the last service, it is going to be happening more often
 

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You should consider a new radiator if you've upgraded the car engine to produce more power. A more powerful engine gives out more heat so it will need an upgraded radiator to handle the higher heat output effectively. A properly maintained radiator should last at least 3 years, and up to 8-10 years.
 

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You should consider a new radiator if you've upgraded the car engine to produce more power. A more powerful engine gives out more heat so it will need an upgraded radiator to handle the higher heat output effectively. A properly maintained radiator should last at least 3 years, and up to 8-10 years.
I have not upgraded the engine, replacing the radiator is a necessity at this point.
 

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I guess that may have come across wrong.. I've had many vehicles which I have traded in with less than adequate mileage because I just didn't trust them and was always afraid that I would be stranded. This is the first vehicle, well I did have a Highlander, so perhaps the second that I trust to have well over 100K on it. It's good to know that so many other people keep theirs as well and don't let the mileage bother them.
Your truck looks immaculate. I still think it is one of these best looking RL's on this site.
 

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Your truck looks immaculate. I still think it is one of these best looking RL's on this site.
Thank you! I appreciate the compliment sir.
 

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Correct, the rest of the instrument panel is working, it is only the odometer. Will try disconnecting the power

up until this point, the dealership has been the only mechanic to touch my truck. Up until this last visit I have no complaints. This has been the most economical 320k miles I could have imagined and I am a lead foot, this truck cruises at 90 and I have a hard time keeping below that speed.
Clamping AT lines was to prevent drainage, it would be just as easy to refill. I was thinking about changing out the lines, you just made up my mind, will do.

Working on my roadrunner is one thing, I am a moderate mechanic at best, so, taking my Ridgeline apart is a bit intimidating. After the last service, it is going to be happening more often
First off, it would be in your best interest to own an OBD2 scanner that is bluetooth. Many are available online, and I use this >> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This helps you to learn more about what the trouble could be, prior to relying on someone else.

Low oil is an issue and being that low in oil, should have given you an oil warning light. When I do my oil changes, I change out oil and filter and if you are doing the same, rather than doing the recommended one through the MM, then you should have been fine with the sludge. The PCV valve is something that many never change. I changed mine last year and I already had over 230K miles on it. I noticed a ton of build up on the front bank valve train and valve cover, than the rear bank. If you had not changed it, I would say change it out.

The Odometer reading can be picked up from the PCM if I am not mistaken. My old OBD scan tool picked up my VIN and ODO automatically. If you are not getting any ODO reading, but your speed and RPM are fine, then disconnect the battery completely, wait few minutes and reconnect it (if you are using stock entertainment unit, keep the code handy). I wont jump into buying any LCD panels yet as the problem is not the panel as it is displaying everything else (I presume).

What do you mean block off the ATF cooling lines? I just left mine unhooked and just caught the drips on a pan. I was changing my ATF anyway, so it did not matter what drained out. Changing out those old rubber lines with a 3/8" braided rubber hose meant for Transmission fluid. Either reuse the OEM clamps or use a fuel hose clamp.
Disconnected both terminals on my batter for about an hour, reconnected and still have no odometer reading, maintenance minder reads 100% and all the other gauges are working
 

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Disconnected both terminals on my batter for about an hour, reconnected and still have no odometer reading, maintenance minder reads 100% and all the other gauges are working
Time to track down whats preventing the display from working. Use an OBD reader to see what is happening. If no home solutions are found, then you may need to get some professional help on this.
 

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Time to track down whats preventing the display from working. Use an OBD reader to see what is happening. If no home solutions are found, then you may need to get some professional help on this.
I ordered the oen you recommended, and it has arrived at my Amazon locker, will pick up shortly. can you point me in the direction as to where I plug it in?
 

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For the Gen 1, the OBD2 port is below the Dr side lower dash panel. See the image below for the circled port where the OBD2 sensor plugs in.

As far as the App to see codes, use Torque Lite (free). This is for Android
- For additional help on the app, look here >> Getting Started - Torque OBD2 Wiki

If you have an Apple based products, some of the following could work
  • Torque Pro
  • DashCommand
  • InCarDoc Pro
I am not familiar with Apple products and the free various on Android may cost money on Apple. Just read some reviews and download something that is best for you. You need an app that can read and display trouble codes and have the option to clear them.

 

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I received the ODBII connected it and it found nothing. No codes, no apparent wrnings, being I am still learning to use this thing I could be missing something obvious. I have however lost my back up cam since my last post and it occurred to me that on my road trip 2 weeks ago, 100 miles were spent on NF-30 and NF-90, otherwise known as national forest routes. While they were paved, they were pretty darn bumpy so I am thinking I just loosened things up under the dash. Will pull apart today and see what I can find. Tackling the radiator tomorrow. Any advice or instructions on either task would be greatly appreciated.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Those OBD2 readers can't see everything. There are some codes that you need the Honda system to read.
 
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