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2007 RTL 175k miles as of 8/2022
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've owned this Ridgeline since '18. I don't know if it's the original radiator, but it is stamped Honda and has old trans fluid tube connection. It's been leaking at the top at the seams for months, and I'm finally getting around to doing this repair. Been having to refill the overflow reservoir with about a pint of Honda coolant each week. I had no overheating issues.

Bought Denso radiator (part #221-3249) from Amazon and it took a month to get to me in Hawaii. It had an O'Reilly Auto Parts sticker on the box it shipped in, which was a little damaged. The radiator was packed with a styrofoam piece on bottom and top that fit pretty loose. Styrofoam bits and dusk were all over the radiator. It came with a lower plug and pack of square nuts.

Unfortunately, I didn't closely inspect the new radiator before I removed the old one. I depend on my truck for work so I'd like to get the job done today. (I'm also doing the valve cover gaskets, due to a leaky tube seal at cylinder #1, and have upper intake manifold gasket set on hand. I plan to take care of this repair while I have the radiator and battery out.)

**The opening of the lower trans fluid tube on the left was flattened. The rubber cap it shipped with was damaged. The raised sealing "ring" at the end of the tube looks to be round still. The right side one looks good.

I can return the new Denso to Amazon and get a replacement, but it will take a few weeks to ship. There are a couple of radiators available locally, but not by Denso. Duralast/AutoZone ($236), Murray/O'Reilly ($247), APDI/Napa ($243), Reach/Napa ($243), and Metrix/CarQuest ($280). Should I go with one of these instead?

***After removing old radiator, the original lower mount cushions (HP# 74172-S87-A00) are deformed. None available locally from Honda dealers. Taking old ones to auto parts store to see if universal bushing is available. Napa already said they don't have one referenced for the Ridgeline, and neither does O'Reilly.

Picked up new thermostat/o-ring (Murray Plus+) and radiator hoses (Napa).

****Also, how important is the upper foam seal strip (HP# 19013-PGK-A01) at the top of the radiator? Can I use a similarly sized weather stripping? Concern is heat tolerance...

Is there anything I'm overlooking? Thank you in advance for any input you can offer.
 

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2014 Sport
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The aftermarket Denso radiator you bought was probably made in China or another inexpensive labor location. Quailty of materials and manufacture is likely no better than any of the other aftermarket radiators that you mention as being available locally. Also, you can carefully inspect the local radiators before taking them home from the store.
Simply put Denso OEM is made in Japan and Denso aftermarket are not. There really isn't a good reason to wait another few weeks, get what is available locally and take a good look at it.
 

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2007 RTL 175k miles as of 8/2022
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm about to complete the valve cover gasket replacement job (Fel-Pro gasket, tube seals, and grommets) -- front valve cover done, and about to reinstall the rear one. I found the tear in the cyl. 1 tube seal that was letting oil in the spark plug tube.

With radiator and battery out, there's lots of room to work. Wires still made it difficult to take out the rear valve cover.

Next step will be replacing thermostat, then radiator hoses.

And finally to installing the new radiator. I decided to go with radiator from local Napa store, made by APDI (NRC NR2830B). It cost $189 + tax, couple bucks less than "Denso" from Amazon. And I got to inspect it in the store first, giving me more confidence in how it's been handled.

Also received new lower mount cushions from HondaPartsNow online, along with new clamps for radiator and ATF hoses.

The issue now is that the ATF cooler lines on the radiator aren't oriented in the same direction as the old one, so the ATF hoses won't fit nicely. Can I safely turn these lines without compromising the seal?
 

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2007 RTL 175k miles as of 8/2022
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In case this is helpful: when I got to replacing the valve cover bolt grommets, I was a little stumped on how to do it without damaging things.

First I separated the washer from the rubber and then cut off the old grommet with a nail puller/cutting pliers. No need to cut the washer as it slides past the bulge no problem.

I then used a c-clamp and a deep socket to push the new grommet back onto the bolt past the bulge. I also sprayed a little silicone lube to the grommet to help it slide easily. I had to hold it with one hand to keep it from rocking, but otherwise it was pretty simple and quick to do all 10 bolts & grommets.
 

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2007 RTL 175k miles as of 8/2022
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Replaced thermostat tonight with one by Murray (Plus, 4127) along with new housing seal. I was surprised how much coolant gushed out from behind the old thermostat -- a quart, maybe more. The old one was fit in there really snug that it required using a pliers to work it out. Old one looks to be OEM thermo. with OEM o-ring.

The new one sat pretty loose. I was concerned the seal wouldn't seal tight with the thermostat cover back on. I went ahead and put it all back together and fit on new upper and lower radiator hoses (Napa) with new Honda OEM clamps.

I also cleaned the throttle body, which had a lot of carbon buildup along the edges of the butterfly. I was careful to not move butterfly and used a rag soaked with throttle body cleaner. I also used an acid brush dipped in cleaner to take care of the stubborn areas. It cleaned up nicely. (I learned my lesson on cleaning Honda TBs, when I cleaned the one on my 06 Odyssey by spraying TB cleaner heavily inside and moving the butterfly gently with my finger. I ended up needing a new TB to resolve TC P2716 throttle body actuator malfunction issue.)

I moved next to begin installing new radiator, but I wasn't comfortable with how the ATF hose assembly connected to the cooler lines on the new radiator (Napa/APDI). I posted another thread asking if the cooler lines orientation is adjustable. Or if I should swap the radiator with one that has lines pointed more like the old Honda rad. See that post here.

In the meantime, I got setup to proceed on installing the new rad once I resolve concerns about the ATF cooler assembly/lines. The intake is still off, battery still out. Really looking forward to having this repair done by the weekend. And hoping everything works as expected.

I recently changed oil and flushed coolant. Trans fluid was serviced by Honda a year ago. Should I just top off or flush and refill?

I also have a power steering problem. Fluid is leaking at the pump, and it whines when I first start the truck until engine warmed up. I see the fluid residue on the underside of the hood. And the reservoir is low. I was hoping it was simply an o-ring needing to be replaced on a hose. But, I need to troubleshoot this. Probably something easier to do now with the intake off. But I just want to be done with repairs for now and get 'er back on the road.

Glad to think out loud and document things here. Appreciate all the support. Much love.
 

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2007 RTL 175k miles as of 8/2022
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
With the help of members here, I was able to adjust the cooler lines on the rad with confidence. It only took a few minutes to complete.

Now I'm contemplating the power steering repair...

Gonna check the service manual, research here. I'm not sure of the best way to troubleshoot this.
 

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2007 RTL 175k miles as of 8/2022
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Radiator challenges continue.

After adjusting the cooler lines, I sized up the fans before proceeding to install the new radiator (Napa/APDI).

Glad I did so, because the lower mounting bolts for passenger side fan didn't line up. The outside one is a good half inch inside where it should be.

Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Bumper

Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Gas Cable


Should I drill a new hole in the fan mounting bracket? Or look for another radiator fan locally...or order "oem" through local Honda dealer??

Frustrated to say the least. I really hoped to have this job done today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Found a Duralast radiator in stock locally at AutoZone, on a Sunday evening. Took a chance and picked it up, checking the spacing of the lower mounts before purchasing.

Got it home and sized up the fans, and now the top mounts for the driver side fan don't line up. And the fan has no flex to force it in place.

Even more frustrated. I've now gone through 4 radiators: (2) shipped from Amazon (Denso, Murray) that got manhandled, (1) local Napa/APDI, and (1) AutoZone/Duralast.

Seems my only option left is to order the OEM replacement from Honda.

Or drill a new hole in the fan's lower mounting bracket and use the Napa rad. Tho I'd still need to check fit of the other fan mounts.

Any ideas what else I should do?
 

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Are your fans original? There were two radiators for the GenI. One part number fits 06-08. The other fits 09-14. Make sure you are asking for the correct year and that they are giving you the radiator for the correct year. Should be the Duralast B2830 for your 07. Duralast C13065 would be for the 09-14s. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are your fans original? There were two radiators for the GenI. One part number fits 06-08. The other fits 09-14. Make sure you are asking for the correct year and that they are giving you the radiator for the correct year. Should be the Duralast B2830 for your 07. Duralast C13065 would be for the 09-14s. Good luck.
Yes, confirmed it's the B2830
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, confirmed it's the B2830
Fans are not original OEM...both are Dorman brand. I replaced condenser fan Dec '20 and radiator fan Aug '21. They installed into the OEM Honda rad no problem.

I might be able to make the radiator fan (plastic shroud) fit. I'm concerned it may break the seal of the rad, tho.

The condenser fan (metal shroud) lines up no problem on the Duralast radiator. Short on options
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Found one by CSF at a specialty rad shop called Performance Radiator for $215. Bringing the fans with me to size up. Hoping this is the one! Here's some pix of how the Dorman fans lined up on the OEM. The plastic radiator fan top mounts are a little off.
 

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man @anotherdude I'd of drilled a hole or two and called it a day. I'd have no problem paying $215 if the shop would pressure test it while they had it. I did that it was a worthy investment.

And I used Home Depot foam weather strip for the bumper/cushion on the top of my tank without issue. just get something similar thickness, it is suppose to cushion the movement not force it forward into the engine compartment...

Also that lower trans "metal" line check it out a few have had issues with rust and it failing shortly after all this movement.. One work around is just new lower trans line hose and skip the metal line...

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Fluid Bumper



Good Luck
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
man @anotherdude I'd of drilled a hole or two and called it a day. I'd have no problem paying $215 if the shop would pressure test it while they had it. I did that it was a worthy investment.

And I used Home Depot foam weather strip for the bumper/cushion on the top of my tank without issue. just get something similar thickness, it is suppose to cushion the movement not force it forward into the engine compartment...

Also that lower trans "metal" line check it out a few have had issues with rust and it failing shortly after all this movement.. One work around is just new lower trans line hose and skip the metal line...

View attachment 428740
Good Luck
Thanks for the reply. I wish it was that easy. The plastic radiator fan has metal bushings shielding the bolt holes. The metal cooling fan lower mount bracket I could have drilled a hole, but that rad (Napa/APDI) is gone. And I didn't check how the plastic radiator fan lined up.

I picked up foam tape from HD. Thanks for sharing your experience with it. Now just to find the right rad.

Good tip on the pressure test at the rad specialty shop. I'll ask if this is something they offer.

The ATF cooler line assembly looks solid still. Would be more work to replace with straight fuel line at this point. THANKS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was starting to doubt a quality aftermarket radiator actually exists. Thankfully I found one yesterday at Hawaii's Performance Radiator. ATF cooler lines oriented right. Mounts for fans all line up. Packaged better than any of the other radiators. Includes a limited lifetime warranty. Hope to have time after work this evening to install this and put everything else back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Repair 99% complete, only the final lower body panel to reinstall. Last night, reinstalled intake manifold and throttle body, and reconnected every hose and wire terminal. I also changed the power steering high pressure hose O-ring (black one; the other orange O-ring was replaced a couple days ago) and setup for installing radiator in the morning.

Oh, I wasn't confident in the Murray thermostat (#4127) and seal I had installed, so I replaced it with OEM I picked up from Honda earlier in the day. Cost me $90, but, from what I read here, it is worth the extra cost. I could have ordered off Amazon for $63, but I really wanted this job done.

This morning, I was able to install the radiator/atf cooler and fans with only a couple issues. The upper hose from Napa turned out to be too short. Thankfully I still had the old Honda hose which is still in good shape. And I misplaced two bolts for the a/c fan. Fortunately I had two bolts and lock washers on hand that worked out perfect. I used some new clamps on the radiator hoses and a few spots on the atf cooler.

After double-checking the radiator installation, I reinstalled the battery, air filter box, and trim piece along the front edge of the engine bay. Next, the coolant reservoir and radiator were filled to the top.

I knew the power steering would need to be burped, and lifted the front tires off the ground with a jack. With the ignition on but before cranking engine, I turned the steering wheel lock to lock twice.

With the radiator cap loose on the radiator to burp the cooling system, I started the engine. It started up no problem. I turned the a/c heater on, and the fan turned on. In a minute or so, the cooling fan turned on. There was some whirring at the power steering pump, and I noticed the fluid was low in the tank. Looking in from the top, the fluid was swirling around in there fast. With the engine running, I added fluid to the tank to midway between high and low. I turned the steering wheel lock to lock again 3-4x.

A little coolant was bubbling out from under the radiator cap, which I soaked up with a shop rag. The check engine light was on, and at that point I used a scan tool to run diagnostic -- codes were present for throttle position (P2176), and several "pending" misfire codes (P0300, 0305, 0303). I turned off the engine at that point and looked everything over under the hood.

Coolant level was still good, so I tightened the radiator and coolant reservoir caps. The power steering fluid level also good, so I capped that and replaced the gray tank cover. Everything looks good!!

I lowered the jack and got ready for a road test next. Before starting the engine again, I ran another scan then cleared the codes. I also pushed on the gas pedal as my wife listened for the throttle body butterfly to open and close -- all good. CEL now gone, I cranked the engine and it started right up. I switched the A/C to cool temp and let the engine idle for a couple minutes.

No power steering whine. Engine running smooth with correct idle. Coolant temp gauge just below halfway. CEL off. Ready for test drive.

Test drive went great. Didn't notice any issues, except the wheel well plastics rubbing on the tires. Throttle running smoother than before. Steering, too. Drove a couple miles around the neighborhood before returning home.

I'm stoked! Thanks to everyone for your input and encouragement throughout this repair. I learned A LOT. My wife (aka chief mechanic) and 8yo daughter ("bro"-chanic) gave a lot of help, too, that I so appreciate.

Here's a list of repairs completed:
replaced radiator (CSF from Performance Radiator Hawaii), lower hose (Napa), thermostat and seal (Honda OEM), lower rad cushions (OEM), high and low p/s o-rings (OEM), complete valve cover sets (Fel-Pro), intake manifold gasket set (Fel-Pro), cleaned throttle body, brand new coolant in rad (Honda), added p/s fluid (Honda).

To fully complete this repair, I will be checking the coolant level and topping off as needed (so far, only about 1.5 gallons added). I will also check transmission fluid and add more as needed (I had flush at Honda in Aug '21). I also plan to replace a bunch of worn out plastic clips holding the body panels together, and a few wire retainer zip ties. I also want to rinse out the lower engine near the thermostat housing where a bunch of coolant spilled.

Time to also wash down the carport and clean up otherwise. I took video throughout the repair process and will try to edit and upload when I find time. Much love and God bless!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Happy to report that after two days of driving, my Ridgeline's running great. The power steering whine is gone. No issues with new radiator. No more shaky or erratic idle when at stop or park. The throttle and acceleration is smooth.

Glad I cleaned the throttle body. Only issue now is trouble code P2279 intake air system leak. I don't notice any throttle problems. Looking for answers here, I found a post that shared a service article that addressed this issue and recommended throttle position relearn procedure. Looks like the closed throttle position needs to be relearned.

I'm having issues with my Foxwell scanner not working properly, so I can't do this procedure myself yet. Working with Foxwell customer service. The scanner is only a couple months old.
 

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Happy to report that after two days of driving, my Ridgeline's running great. The power steering whine is gone. No issues with new radiator. No more shaky or erratic idle when at stop or park. The throttle and acceleration is smooth.

Glad I cleaned the throttle body. Only issue now is trouble code P2279 intake air system leak. I don't notice any throttle problems. Looking for answers here, I found a post that shared a service article that addressed this issue and recommended throttle position relearn procedure. Looks like the closed throttle position needs to be relearned.

I'm having issues with my Foxwell scanner not working properly, so I can't do this procedure myself yet. Working with Foxwell customer service. The scanner is only a couple months old.
Thanks for sharing. Did you just use a sprayer cleaner for your throttle body or something else. There is always a nice sense of satisfaction when you get your Ridge running like a top. Congrats!
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for sharing. Did you just use a sprayer cleaner for your throttle body or something else. There is always a nice sense of satisfaction when you get your Ridge running like a top. Congrats!
Cleaned with CRC throttle body cleaner sprayed on a rag and short acid brush dipped in cleaner in the tight spots. Made sure not to move the butterfly. Learned my lesson after spraying cleaner directly on our 06 Odyssey TB and pushing open the butterfly. I was told as long as I didn't let it slam closed I was ok. Ended up needing a new TB for it...a remanufactured OEM by Cardone.

Thanks for the kind words.
 
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