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Discussion Starter #1
Of course this happens right when I put my wife’s Pilot in the body shop for 2 weeks.

I replaced the sway bar links a few years back, and I know the CV joint boot covers are shot. So I’ve got axles in my future.

I haven’t crawled under, but at 127,000 miles and the way I beat on it, I’m expecting it to need some ball joints somewhere, maybe new struts and mounts too.

What are the ordinary suspects for rattles in the front end of a ridgeline?

My noise is clearly coming from the left.


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Discussion Starter #2
I took a video.




I’m not seeing any obvious culprits. Maybe the rear lower control arm bushing?? Maybe the ball joint on the end of the lower control arm? Or just the strut?


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Lower control arms are a PITA to chage but those bushings look rough. Changing those on mine got rid of a shudder type effect after bumps. Get a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a 24 / 22 / 19 sockets for it.

After doing struts, endlinks, swaybar bushings, tie rod ends on mine, the culprit for most of my clunk / noise was a CV joint going bad.
 

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2010 RT - Bali Blue
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Mine does it's usual clunks on rough road at above normal speed, I would say it's the lower control arm as the bushings are probably shot. Mine looks like the 'magic sand' that is being pulled apart.
 

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I got the LCAs for $185 each shipped from usaparts.net - they're dormans, but they seem well built, probably stocks that were refurb'd. Best deal I found in April.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone. My wife had been driving it to work which sounds the worst on the city streets. It wasn’t bad on a 100 mile trip to the beach and back last weekend. I know I need to get it fixed and am definitely wondering what parts to focus on. Tomorrow I need to take a trip through NJ for the day and figure the Ridgeline should be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I still haven’t done anything about this rattle and just figure it’s going to have to be done soon. I talked to my family-member-mechanic and he said to call Honda and ask if there’s a recall on compliance bushings. He says he’s had Honda pick up the costs on a lot of Pilots. Apparently there’s some known issue. I researched and found issues with the 2009+ Pilot, but nothing on the ridgeline.

I’m at the point where I’m ready to buy parts to probably do the job myself and see that compliance bushings are available around $15 or so, and wonder if it would be simpler to replace bushings (maybe not need an alignment) or just replace the whole control arms. I run old worn tires right now, and have no plans of putting anything good and fresh on any time soon (unless I was to take the 17” from my wife’s 2007 Pilot on Acura 17” wheels). I like to run my tires ass long as I can exhaust I’m cheap and also believe that is the most environmentally friendly thing to do.

Anyway, I’ve got access to a lift and trans jack and also have a scissor lift at home and floor jacks. I can use a press at my friends shop, but figure that would require the control arm to be out to use anyway. It seems like the whole control arms and then getting an alignment would be the thing to do.

Any recommendations?


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Discussion Starter #9
I’ve done nothing, and I’m at 130,000+ on the odometer, and the b3 service light is on. I’m running dry rotted tires and just noticed a nail in the front driver. I’m getting near a time to do a major overhaul on the front suspension, and might as well do the brakes and maybe rear suspension while I’m at it. CV boots are shot, and it’s probably time for axles too.

So... time to start collecting good parts for the big job, and to follow it up with an alignment and new tires.


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Summit Racing has very good price on lower control arms. I picked up a set couple of weeks ago. My clunk still happens and the suspension unloads when I travel anything above 75mph. Looks like the years of towing with the truck took its toll. I also pickup new shocks all around and will be replacing the swaybar bushings. I already have all three new engine mounts, end links, and tie-rod ends.
The rears seem to be okay.
 

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I’ve done nothing, and I’m at 130,000+ on the odometer, and the b3 service light is on. I’m running dry rotted tires and just noticed a nail in the front driver. I’m getting near a time to do a major overhaul on the front suspension, and might as well do the brakes and maybe rear suspension while I’m at it. CV boots are shot, and it’s probably time for axles too.

So... time to start collecting good parts for the big job, and to follow it up with an alignment and new tires.


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Check your lower ball joint again. It appears from your video that you have space/gap in the ball joint that should not be there. This could be your rattle or noice?
 

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On my 06 the issue (rattling noise over bumps) was sway bar bushings. Easy and cheap fix. . .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
On my 06 the issue (rattling noise over bumps) was sway bar bushings. Easy and cheap fix. . .
Wow. That does sound easy.

Check your lower ball joint again. It appears from your video that you have space/gap in the ball joint that should not be there. This could be your rattle or noice?
Thank you!

I just figured I’m due for a serious overhaul with leaking CV boots, a rattle, beat tires I got with a $100 wheel set, etc.

I feel the RL is in desperate need of love. Startup seems a little rough occasionally. So I figure spark plugs might be worth replacing preventatively, and to inspect what’s going on in there.

I blew out the original radiator almost a year ago, and dodged a bullet on the SMOD there.

What’s a cat got? 9 lives?

I do love this truck, and need to give it what it deserves. I never find the time just continually beating on it. :)


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Discussion Starter #14
How time flies when you aren’t maintaining your ridgeline!

The rattle has gotten louder, and even the smallest bumps in the road cause it. I am amazed that the truck isn’t pulling to the left or right or seemingly unsafe on the highway or anything.

I am figuring that I’m going to need a front end overhaul including the lower control arms. I wonder if there are other parts I should plan on replacing at the same time before getting an alignment after I’ve replaced all the parts. I might pay my friend who has the lift handle it for me. I just need to get the parts and schedule the time to be without my beloved and so-useful truck.

Time for me to read above.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Mike how are the shocks, springs and the end links?
They all look good. Last night my mechanic friend and I took a look at it and came back to:

“Gotta replace the lower control arms”, and agree that the left lower ball joint is the most likely culprit.

I crawled under earlier and see that the sway bar bushings all look good.

The question is, WHILE IN THERE, what else should be replaced when I finally replace my lower control arms?

Grease coming out of cv-joint boots —> new axles

Might as well do upper control arms too, right?

The front shock/struts seem fine. Is 135,000 miles and 15 years and insane amount to get out of them?

The sway bar links have been replaced in the past (both front and back).
 

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Upper control arms for the rear for sure. Lucky we dont have any in the front
I used the Mevotech LCA for the front and they are holding up well for almost a year. My sway bar bushings were fine as well (240K) so the new ones are still in the box.
Also change out the transmission mounts and the engine mounts, if you hadnt changed them. The rear one is a PITA.
Also have the mechanic inspect the front upper strut mount bearings. If there is binding, you may want to change them out.

Once sorted out, you should be good.
 

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In my experience you can't see a bad sway bar bushing. A rubber mallet whacked on the bar near the bushing will sometimes "show" you if you have a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
In my experience you can't see a bad sway bar bushing. A rubber mallet whacked on the bar near the bushing will sometimes "show" you if you have a problem.
Are we talking about where the sway bar link connects to the sway bar?

I was looking to see if there was any sign of damage to the sway bar bushing where the bar mounts to the frame (paint wear marks anywhere near the bushing since it’s a distinctive metal-on-metal rattle I get going over potholes with the left front wheel).


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Are we talking about where the sway bar link connects to the sway bar?

I was looking to see if there was any sign of damage to the sway bar bushing where the bar mounts to the frame (paint wear marks anywhere near the bushing since it’s a distinctive metal-on-metal rattle I get going over potholes with the left front wheel).


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No, not the connection to the end link. The sway bar bushing is in board where the swaybar is anchored to the body with a 2 bolt clamp that surround the rubber bushing. It's a cheap part. I would replace it to make sure.
 
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