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Anybody know what a dealer charges for this install? This is above my mechanical pay grade.
As they said it's not difficult at all. But if you aren't feeling up to the task the one place I would go get it done is an auto body shop. Find, google, etc, a local reputable auto body shop. They'll do it for you and should charge you 1 hr shop labor so $100 and some change these days.
 

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As they said it's not difficult at all. But if you aren't feeling up to the task the one place I would go get it done is an auto body shop. Find, google, etc, a local reputable auto body shop. They'll do it for you and should charge you 1 hr shop labor so $100 and some change these days.
What scared me was a previous post here about removing the inner door panels. I'm decent with a wrench on my motorcycles but worried about getting in over my head and possibly screwing something up or damaging something. I'll find some video's and maybe give it a go dow the line. Not an immediate issue for me but the narrow opening is a head scratcher. Between that and the non-locking tailgate it makes one wonder.
 

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What scared me was a previous post here about removing the inner door panels. I'm decent with a wrench on my motorcycles but worried about getting in over my head and possibly screwing something up or damaging something. I'll find some video's and maybe give it a go dow the line. Not an immediate issue for me but the narrow opening is a head scratcher. Between that and the non-locking tailgate it makes one wonder.
Same with the bikes. I can tear one down to the frame. The only thing I won’t do is adjust my valves as I don’t want to buy the whole bag of shims for just the few I need. I figure hey I do everything else, so I will gladly pay for valve inspection/adjustment.

Cars not so much as it pertains to interior bits, not my bag either. There is YouTube video. I just watched it twice, then took my time on the first rear door. Took me quite a bit of time. 2nd one I did in 15 minutes. If you can wrench on a bike you can do this quite easily. Just take your time on the first one after watching the video on you tube. Pretty difficult to screw up actually. Even if you bust a clip, it’s a pretty inexpensive part.

The door checkers and the tailgate lock were immediate things for me to remedy. With you there. But the + thing is these parts exist in the first place. 2 and 3 years ago, you were stuck with the doors the way they are and there was no tail gate lock.
 

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The only thing I won’t do is adjust my valves as I don’t want to buy the whole bag of shims for just the few I need.
Are shim-type valve adjustments common on motorcycles? It's been easy to adjust the valves using the screw-and-locknut type adjustment on my Kawasaki and Honda motorcycles. The Ridgeline doesn't need shims, either.
 

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What scared me was a previous post here about removing the inner door panels. I'm decent with a wrench on my motorcycles but worried about getting in over my head and possibly screwing something up or damaging something. I'll find some video's and maybe give it a go dow the line. Not an immediate issue for me but the narrow opening is a head scratcher. Between that and the non-locking tailgate it makes one wonder.
I was worried about them also but I just took a large flat blade screwdriver and stuck it up at the bottom left corner of the panel and pried a little and it came right off. I think I could have probably have pulled it loose using my fingers.
 

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I was worried about them also but I just took a large flat blade screwdriver and stuck it up at the bottom left corner of the panel and pried a little and it came right off. I think I could have probably have pulled it loose using my fingers.
I did the same. If you want to be really careful, use the smallest flat blade you can, AND get a roll of blue painters tape from HD or Lowes. Cut a tiny piece off and tape it on the edge of the flat head to avoid scratching anything.
 

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I admit reluctance in removing the door panels, my past experience with other manufacturer interior clips has not been positive without breaking at least one or two. But, once I decided to do it, I found these on the Ridgeline to be sturdy, easily popped, thus presenting absolutely no problem. However, just remember to remove ALL the screws, (I initially overlooked the one(s) under the door handle :oops: .)
.
Bill
 

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What scared me was a previous post here about removing the inner door panels. I'm decent with a wrench on my motorcycles but worried about getting in over my head and possibly screwing something up or damaging something. I'll find some video's and maybe give it a go dow the line. Not an immediate issue for me but the narrow opening is a head scratcher. Between that and the non-locking tailgate it makes one wonder.
I have removed many door panels in my time and I too, was concerned about removing the Ridgeline panels, but they were the easiest I have ever removed. Stuck a piece of tape down at the lower corner to protect the paint, stuck in my trim removal tool (a large flathead screwdriver would work) and once the corner was loose, the whole panel popped right of. Went back on just as easy.
 

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I picked up a 5 piece trim removal kit from O'Rielly Auto Parts for 10 bucks. Figure it may come in handy down the line. You just need something to pop that one on the corner or get your fingers under the panel to pull it away.
 

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This set from Amazon has come in Handy for me.
The truth is in a kit of this size, you really only need a few. Others you probably won’t ever use, but you also probably don’t need it because you’ve got it. Similar to Murphy’s Law.
 
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