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Hardly any gap is all the gap you probably need. It's a pretty small risk to run with it. I'd say pretty low risk of scratching or cracking a window, and if you do, replace it, and lesson learned. Shattering the glass I seriously doubt could happen. Most likely is years of trouble free life.
Especially considering all the positive reviews of this mod, without one reported case of a broken window that I know of, maybe you are being overly cautious.
Ya know, after two years since the inception of this thread, and hundreds of owners since doing this mod, I just gotta agree with ya! :)

Bill
 

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I ordered the 2020 rear checkers and they have shipped out today. They were out of stock a while ago, but this might be old news now.
 

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I ordered the 2020 rear checkers and they have shipped out today. They were out of stock a while ago, but this might be old news now.
If I were you I would get the 2019 front checkers and send the 2020 back if you can. There was discussion on this thread a couple of pages back or so about how the 2020 checkers don't open quite the same as the 2019 front. The door will close by itself when fully opened if it's nose uphill slightly or in a breeze.
 

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This is simply one of the easiest and most practical modifications I’ve ever done to a car or truck, and I’ve had 33 in my young 51 years of life! I’m 6’-5” and too big around…and I can now stand squarely in front of the rear door opening without feeling squeezed. Plus, the Rear Doors seem to close MUCH easier once they reach a certain point (almost like they are automatic…hard to describe until you’ve done it). We LOVE it!!!

Below are the slightly different step by steps I used (enjoy hope they help others)!

So first let me say, the best photos posted on this thread are on Page 21 by @ValJean9430. HOWEVER, I did NOT want to peel back the white sealed Foam Barrier/Weather Insulation, so instead I removed the speaker…and for me it worked way better.

Also, I would like to reiterate what others have said…Having a helper is GREAT! My very patient wife held the door panels after I’d removed them, so I did NOT have to disconnect wires or balance the panels on a bucket or cooler. ;-)

Parts Needed – (Cool Fun Fact: Honda always makes the Right Side Part# Smaller/Lower Number then a Left Side Part# in the first 5 digits)
  • 72340-TG7-A02 (Right / Passenger’s Front Door Checker)
  • 72380-TG7-A02 (Left / Driver’s Front Door Checker)
Tools Needed –
  • Medium Sized 3/8” or 1/4” Drive Ratchet (I used a 3/8” with a 3/8” to 1/4” adapter which made it a long enough extension)
  • 12mm Socket
  • 10mm Socket
  • Vinyl Pry/Trim Removal Tools (safest to prevent scratches if a person slips) ;-)
  • #2 Phillips (I preferred the hand tool over my drill or Hitachi 3.6V Screwdriver for better “feel”.)
  • Very Small Flat-top Screwdriver
  • Rubber Mallet
These are my Step by Step Instructions (w/PDF) –
  1. Lower the Rear Windows.

  2. Remove the Rear Door Panels…it takes quite a bit of force to “Pop Off” the panels with Vinyl Trim Removal Tools (See Attached PDF ‘Rear_Door_Panel_Removal_-_2017_Ridgeline.pdf’). Plus also, @ValJean9430 has excellent photos on page 21 https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/rear-door-modification-to-increase-opening.204842/page-21

  3. Let your Helper Person hold the panel, there is NO need to disconnect the latch or any wires.

  4. Raise/Close the Rear Windows Again.
    This will give a person more room to reach through the speaker hole later without the glass inside the door.


  5. Remove the 12mm Hex Bolt from the Door Jam (body of the truck).
    The bolt it very tight w/Blue LocTite, I used my Milwaukee 28V Drill set on the Max Torque Clutch and Hold ON with both hands or you might hurt you wrist…unless you have an Impact Driver). ;)


  6. Remove the two (2) 10mm Hex Bolts from the Door.
    I used a medium sized ratchet, my two (2) Hex Bolts did NOT take much effort or torque to remove. So, DO NOT over torque when reinstalling (I have a tendency to over torque things so I try to pay attention when I’m removing bolts, too).

    HERE IS WHERE MY INSTRUCTIONS DIFFER FROM MOST OTHERS (OR MY COMBINATION ANYWAY). :):geek:?


  7. Remove the single Hex/Phillips Screw from above the Speaker (the black plastic ring and foam against the metal is all part of the entire speaker part, it’s one piece together).

  8. DO NOT pull the speaker straight out, or a person might break one (1) or both of the two (2) plastic tabs at the bottom of the speaker (which are positioned at about seven (7) and five (5) o’clock).

  9. My speakers black foam was pretty much stuck on the metal door (we’ve had our truck 3.6 years)…so I tapped on the speakers black plastic ring from the bottom, directly up from the six (6) o’clock position with a rubber mallet. Once it loosened, a person can unplug the speaker or let it dangle.

  10. So, with the speaker out, it allows a person to reach up and pull out the Checker with ease…all without breaking the white sealed Foam Barrier/Weather Insulation. Yea! :)

  11. Hand thread the two (2) 10mm bolts back into the New Checker.
    I just snugged them on.


  12. Hand thread the one (1) 12mm bolt.
    I had my helper move the door back and forth to get the right threading spot, then I snugged it down a lil’.

    Next, I opened the door all the way to extend the Checker to its max length (I needed the door to extend the checker, as I was not able to extend the checker with my barehands). Since I had just snugged the bolts on, the Checker made a lil’ snap/click sound when it extended.


  13. Once Extended…I then, re-checked my placement…opened the door as far as it would go, and then I tighten down the 12mm and 10mm bolts.

  14. Slid the Speaker back down into position and put its screw back in.

  15. Lowered the Rear Windows again (which makes it easer to hook the Door Panels back on).

  16. Reattach the Door Panel in the reverse order of the PDF (making sure the “Christmas Tree” clips are still seated correctly and aligned)

  17. And, BOOM you are DONE!
Again I hope this will be helpful to someone out there, enjoy! You will be glad you did this modification!!!
 

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Great write up.

I didn't lower the windows, but I did go through the speaker hole. Removing the one screw from the speaker seemed way easier that risking tearing the moisture barrier.

Probably took less than 30 minutes to do both doors. Only casualty was a broken clip. If that door panel starts rattling I'll order a new one.
 

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Can someone show a picture of the opening with the new checkers? Are you using the 2020 checkers or the 2019? Can someone please confirm this is not hard to do? My husband is alright at stuff but not terrific lol.
 

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Can someone show a picture of the opening with the new checkers? Are you using the 2020 checkers or the 2019? Can someone please confirm this is not hard to do? My husband is alright at stuff but not terrific lol.
If I were you I would use the older checkers for a 2019 model. The 2020 ones do not work as well IMO on the 2019 and back trucks.
 

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Can someone show a picture of the opening with the new checkers? Are you using the 2020 checkers or the 2019? Can someone please confirm this is not hard to do? My husband is alright at stuff but not terrific lol.
Thanks, can you explain
I realize you both are newer members and this thread is long, but both of these questions have already been answered.
 

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Something about the 2019 front door checks work perfectly with the back doors. The 2020 back door checks on the other hand are a little different and you need 2020 hinges for it to work the same. If you don't get the hinges, then the back door will open wide, but there will not be a detent at the full open position.
I'm just following along a bit. I haven't done this mod or researched it much, so if I said anything wrong, feel free to correct me people!
 

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I almost started my rear door speaker replacement today, then remembered this thread. I ordered the front checks and will wait until they get here to do the door opening mod, speakers, and sound deadening all at the same time.
 

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I almost started my rear door speaker replacement today, then remembered this thread. I ordered the front checks and will wait until they get here to do the door opening mod, speakers, and sound deadening all at the same time.
Tell us about that cargo trailer you're pulling in the picture of your Ridgeline. Is it a cargo trailer to travel trailer conversion? If so pics inside and out as well as information on size/weight would be appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Tell us about that cargo trailer you're pulling in the picture of your Ridgeline. Is it a cargo trailer to travel trailer conversion? If so pics inside and out as well as information on size/weight would be appreciated. Thanks!
I got this, SmilinSteve. RBRTL-E, it's a horse trailer.

I want to say a Trail-Et, but may be wrong.
 

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Tell us about that cargo trailer you're pulling in the picture of your Ridgeline. Is it a cargo trailer to travel trailer conversion? If so pics inside and out as well as information on size/weight would be appreciated. Thanks!
Sorry didn't see your question until now. The trailer in my profile pic is a Featherlight brand 2 horse trailer.
 

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I almost started my rear door speaker replacement today, then remembered this thread. I ordered the front checks and will wait until they get here to do the door opening mod, speakers, and sound deadening all at the same time.
Ordered my door checks from "Honda Parts Now" as given in the link on page one of this thread. Ordered on the 14th, its now the 22nd and my order is still in "preshipment" phase. A little disappointed in that. No emergency, but it is holding up my rear door speaker and soundproofing install.
 
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