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2019 RTL-T Forest Mist Metallic
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I took a picture of the checker i didn't install on the driver side rear. I marked it with "HI" on it to show it is the same checker.
View attachment 401333 View attachment 401334

The only distinction is the driver side has L stamped on the the bracket that attaches to the B-Pillar. The passenger side has R stamped on the bracket.
View attachment 401335
Back to the conversation that was going strong on page 70 of this thread, I agree with the above post that the left and right checker seem to be the same part, but with different part numbers and a different stamp on the bracket at the end of the arm, R or L. The arm itself is marked R on one side and L on the other. I played the kids game "find the difference" for quite a while yesterday when I installed them, and could find no difference!
It is incomprehensible that Honda would create 2 part numbers, mark a bracket R or L if it is the same bracket, and create all the complications with assembly and inventory if it was not necessary.
Is it the same or not? And if it is, why are there 2 different part numbers for the same part? I would really like to know the answer to this mystery!
 

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Back to the conversation that was going strong on page 70 of this thread, I agree with the above post that the left and right checker seem to be the same part, but with different part numbers and a different stamp on the bracket at the end of the arm, R or L. The arm itself is marked R on one side and L on the other. I played the kids game "find the difference" for quite a while yesterday when I installed them, and could find no difference!
It is incomprehensible that Honda would create 2 part numbers, mark a bracket R or L if it is the same bracket, and create all the complications with assembly and inventory if it was not necessary.
Is it the same or not? And if it is, why are there 2 different part numbers for the same part? I would really like to know the answer to this mystery!
It probably has to do with the assembly process. Let's compare a door checker with a lug nut. While the left and right door checkers may be identical, they are installed in two different orientations (one side goes up on the left side, but the part has to flip over for the right side). On the other hand, all 20 lugs nuts have the same part number because they can only be installed one way regardless of which side of the vehicle they're on.
 

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Back to the conversation that was going strong on page 70 of this thread, I agree with the above post that the left and right checker seem to be the same part, but with different part numbers and a different stamp on the bracket at the end of the arm, R or L. The arm itself is marked R on one side and L on the other. I played the kids game "find the difference" for quite a while yesterday when I installed them, and could find no difference!
It is incomprehensible that Honda would create 2 part numbers, mark a bracket R or L if it is the same bracket, and create all the complications with assembly and inventory if it was not necessary.
Is it the same or not? And if it is, why are there 2 different part numbers for the same part? I would really like to know the answer to this mystery!
In the '70s I had a friend who was always looking for "left-handed cigarettes", which confused me (the expression; I wasn't a smoker), but maybe this is the wrong forum for that :).
 

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Now I am a bit worried where I did order the different P/N's, but did I actually install them on their "correct" side? :devilish:

Bill
 

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I'm thinking it would be impossible to mount on the "incorrect" side. The small end/single bolt end (how it mounts to the "B" pillar) is the key.;)
 

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In the '70s I had a friend who was always looking for "left-handed cigarettes", which confused me (the expression; I wasn't a smoker), but maybe this is the wrong forum for that :).
A roofer was throwing away every other nail (while nailing down shingles). The other roofer said "dude, those nails (you are throwing away) are for the other side of the roof".🤦‍♂️
 

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I just got mine installed today. I have had them since December but just never took the time, until now to install them. It is amazing what a huge difference it is. So easy to install too. Way easier than the head unit install I did back in November. ;) All in all it took me about 40 minutes, if that. It went very quickly considering I didn't have anyone helping. I didn't have to disconnect the speaker either, just flipped it around and used the magnet to stick it to the door. I am very pleased with it. Great thread too!
 

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I just got mine installed today. I have had them since December but just never took the time, until now to install them. It is amazing what a huge difference it is. So easy to install too. Way easier than the head unit install I did back in November. ;) All in all it took me about 40 minutes, if that. It went very quickly considering I didn't have anyone helping. I didn't have to disconnect the speaker either, just flipped it around and used the magnet to stick it to the door. I am very pleased with it. Great thread too!
IIRC, there are are other holes in the door skin so that you don't even need to mess with the speaker. I did mine at the same time I upgraded the speakers, so that was a non-issue anyway.
IMG_20200527_132309776.jpg

That black plastic hole cover above the speaker pops right out and provides all the access you need.
 

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It's just easier to go through the speaker rather than mess with the vapor barrier. If you already have the vapor barrier off then the speaker isn't necessarily as obvious a choice.
 

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It's just easier to go through the speaker rather than mess with the vapor barrier. If you already have the vapor barrier off then the speaker isn't necessarily as obvious a choice.
Right! There was no way I was going to peel off the vapor barrier. That would have been way more work than a single screw to remove the speaker. Why would anyone want to remove the barrier anyway? I would assume it also helps to reduce road noise.
 
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It's just easier to go through the speaker rather than mess with the vapor barrier. If you already have the vapor barrier off then the speaker isn't necessarily as obvious a choice.
Ok that's a good point. I had my vapor barrier off anyway to install sound deadening. And you can take it off and reinstall it. But I agree id probably prefer to leave it alone and remove the speaker.
But I highly recommend, if you are going to do this work anyway, to upgrade your speakers at the same time!
 

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Ok that's a good point. I had my vapor barrier off anyway to install sound deadening. And you can take it off and reinstall it. But I agree id probably prefer to leave it alone and remove the speaker.
But I highly recommend, if you are going to do this work anyway, to upgrade your speakers at the same time!
Do you notice a decrease in noise after adding the sound insulation? Road noise hasn't caught my attention, i.e. I haven't detected a problem to solve, but just curious.
 

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But I highly recommend, if you are going to do this work anyway, to upgrade your speakers at the same time!
Also a good point. I thought about replacing my speakers when I pulled the factory head unit and replaced it with a Kenwood. The factory speakers sound quite good with the new unit, especially with the advanced EQ control. It would still be extremely easy to swap out the speakers, as having the right door panel removal tools makes it literally a five minute job, if that, to remove them.
 

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Do you notice a decrease in noise after adding the sound insulation? Road noise hasn't caught my attention, i.e. I haven't detected a problem to solve, but just curious.
I notice that when I close the door I get a nice solid thud. It sounds like a heavy, high quality vehicle door which is kind of cool. And my speakers sound great. Its supposed to help with that but I changed them both at the same time so I don't know how much the deadening helped with that. Normally I have my music playing so I don't hear any road noise at all, but with the stereo off, road noise, honestly, is still there. Maybe a little better but its hard to tell.
 

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My 2017's doors sounded like that - they closed with a firm, well-damped "thud". That was one of the first things I noticed about it after purchasing - it had a very "substantial luxury-car feel". My half-deaf stepfather even commented on the feel of the doors the first time he rode in it. My 2019's doors didn't communicate that same level of quality - they had a looser feel and a more hollow, metallic sound.
 

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My 2017's doors sounded like that - they closed with a firm, well-damped "thud". That was one of the first things I noticed about it after purchasing - it had a very "substantial luxury-car feel". My half-deaf stepfather even commented on the feel of the doors the first time he rode in it. My 2019's doors didn't communicate that same level of quality - they had a looser feel and a more hollow, metallic sound.
I'm starting to wonder if initial impressions may portend the condition of the rest of the vehicle. It seems that Ridgelines that have problems tend to have lots of problems, whereas those that don't, just don't. It's almost like that "avoid one built on a Monday or a Friday" syndrome, except that these things are built primarily by robots.

Perhaps the first dozen or so vehicles coming down the assembly line have a rough build before the robots are able to assay their calibrations into more accurate and precise actions. This could change each time the line is changed over from Pilot or Odyssey productuon to Ridgeline production. Or maybe those QA/QC guys are falling down on the job on Mondays and Fridays...
 

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I'm starting to wonder if initial impressions may portend the condition of the rest of the vehicle. It seems that Ridgelines that have problems tend to have lots of problems, whereas those that don't, just don't. It's almost like that "avoid one built on a Monday or a Friday" syndrome, except that these things are built primarily by robots.

Perhaps the first dozen or so vehicles coming down the assembly line have a rough build before the robots are able to assay their calibrations into more accurate and precise actions. This could change each time the line is changed over from Pilot or Odyssey productuon to Ridgeline production. Or maybe those QA/QC guys are falling down on the job on Mondays and Fridays...
I have a 2019 and my doors are nice and solid and make a nice thud when closing. It is not loud by any means, just nice and warm lol.
 

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Did this awesome mod to my 2019 RTL AWD. So simple and low cost. 5 extra inches on the opening as advertised. I did the the speaker removal method and didnt have to disconnect a single wire harness. 15mns side one 10 on the B side.
 
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