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Rear End Squat while Towing

5886 Views 9 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  DSRC_WSMP
We bought our RTL-T AWD about a month and half ago and did the proper break-in on the vehicle before considering towing our 17 foot Casita travel trailer, which we did a week back. The tongue weight of our trailer is about 375 pounds and the rear end goes down about 2.25 inches when the trailer is attached. Does this seem excessive? While the Ridgeline tows the trailer nice, with plenty of power, torque and brakes (we use a Prodigy RF brake controller so no hard wiring necessary and works great), are there any recommendations for taking some of the squat out. On my 4Runner I installed Air Lift airbags and they do a great job of keeping the vehicle level, so I would like to do the same with the Ridgeline.

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I will say I really like the pic!

I would be less concerned with the actual squat of the rear and instead ensure the weight is properly distributed to the front of the ridgeline via the hitch.

Setting up the Equalizer hitch, they provide a pretty good method to adjust the weight distribution. I think this method is good for any WD hitch set up. http://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf. See page 16 for details.

Edit - Sorry... It appeared to me you were using a WD hitch, but at 375lbs it may not be required. In that case, I think the best way to reduce the squat is with a WD hitch, if you are not using one already. There may be other alternatives, but I have had great success using a WD hitch.
Supposedly you can gauge tongue weight by the sag of the rear hitch...At least according to page 406 of the full pdf owners manual...Here is the chart...and it would appear you know your tongue weight very accurately...This is the difference in height of the bottom of the hitch when unloaded vs loaded with the tongue weight shown...

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Airbags and WDH do 2 separate things. On the plus side a WDH can also provide sway control. We use a Equalizer 600/6000 which is overkill for our Lance 1475 but it performs beautifully.

We have 0 drop when hitched up to the trailer.

Two links for your entertainment.

Know the Difference Between Weight Distribution and Air Bags to Level Your Load

This can be found for less cost it you look around.

400 / 4,000 lb. Equal-i-zer Sway Control Hitch : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store

Out tongue weight is 420 camp ready/dry per a Shurline tongue scale.

The squashed/narrowed picture makes the trailer look nose up in the pic.

Good to some other RL being used for a tow vehicle!

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as per OM, it is not recommanded to use a weight distribution hitch on the ridgeline, just to let know readers
as per OM, it is not recommanded to use a weight distribution hitch on the ridgeline, just to let know readers
Thought that was only G1?
Thought that was only G1?
No, I saw it in the owner's manual for my G2. Not sure why they don't "recommend" WD hitch. Don't remember the exact wording, but it was something like " Honda doesn't recommend using a WD hitch, but didn't say you "should never use.....".

Seems to me that if you're approaching the 5,000lb tow limit, a WD hitch would be a lot safer.
I certainly wouldn't bother with a WD hitch or bags for a trailer of that size. It looks pretty level to me. That's why trucks are designed with a bit of rake unloaded to begin with.

Edit: Unless you load up the bed or cab with gear and people. Then bags may be a good idea. But as loaded in the picture, there's no need at all IMO.
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The G1 and G2 manuals say different things.

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I agree that a WD hitch needs to be adjusted correctly. Due to the forces of the hitch, the receiver needs to be properly attached to the frame, and I'm sure some receivers are not meant to be used with a WDH. It sounds like Honda isn't saying its a mechanical problem with their receiver's capability of using a WDH. They seem to just state that if you don't set it correctly, it can cause a problem with handling which is absolutely true.
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