Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Know of any guides on replacing the rear main seal on a Honda Ridgeline (06)?

Looks like my rear main seal needs to be replaced. I've tried Lucas Stop Leak about 2 months ago with not much luck. My local Mieneke repair shop quoted about $1,600. My other honda mechanic replaced the timing belt, motor mounts, etc totaling about $3,000 in January. The rear main seal didn't start leaking until after that. (He's now recovering from heart surgery so can't help me with this unfortunately.)

I'm thinking about helping my brother-in-law buy a lift for his shop (he does resto-mods on 1960's mustangs) and he will help me install the rear main seal. So, what I'm hoping to find is a guide on what all is involved with replacing this seal. A video would be great! I can't seem to find anything on replacing the seal for a Ridgeline. We are considering making a video on repairing it if we decide to do it ourselves.

Know of any guides on replacing the rear main seal on a Honda Ridgeline (06)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
302 Posts
I've seen on here in the past where others have questioned on how to do this because of a leak, and I've read through the manual on how to do it. I apologize that I don't have it in front of me now but I will do my best to explain to you the steps that are needed. I have done this on simpler engines and I know the Ridgelines engine very well, but I have never done this to my truck or anything like it...This is not all inclusive and I'm sure others will chime in.... there are a few different orders you can do this in but some of them have to be done in certain spots.

0.5 Unhook the battery. :)

1. unhook the front and rear exhaust cat converters. You may or may not also have to remove the Exhaust J-Pipe under the truck, if so you will also have to remove the cross brace on the frame.
2. remove the intake air filter box and hose (up to the throttle body)
3. remove throttle body but leave the coolant lines connected. secure it out of the way.
4. remove intake vacuum hose at the rear of the intake manifold.
5. remove the electrical harness assembly (this will by far take the most time and will likely include removing the intake plenum and power steering pump)
6. Since you have to remove the power steering pump, remove the accesory belt. You can remove the lower hose on the power steering without losing any fluid, tie it (the pump w upper hose) off out of the way, and keep the upper hose attached.
7. The rear part of the harness will be the hardest part to get out of the way, especially towards the right rear (as you face the truck).
8. once the harness is completely removed (the upper portion) you should have enough room to lift the engine.
9. Connect an engine lift to the top of the engine to support it.
10. put a little tension on the lift and remove the bolts connecting the "bell housing" to the transmission.
11. Remove the bolts to the transmission inspection cover and then the bolts to theflex plate (flywheel) that are attached to the torque converter.
12. Unbolt all three engine mounts, you should be able to just remove the top bolt on the front mount and you should be able to leave the left one attached to the engine.... if not, be prepared to remove the water pump cover. The rear should be simple, it's just in a blind spot.
13. Lift up the engine at the same time you shimy it to the passenger side of the truck, be careful what you pry on, if it doesnt come up easy then recheck all connections and make sure you got all the flex plate bolts.

14. pull the engine up to just enough room where you can see the flex plate, mark it's location in relation to the crankshaft (for reinstall) remove it and sit it to the side.
15. Use a seal puller and pull out the old seal, wipe the inside where the seal was with a clean rag.
16. Lubricate the new seal with engine oil or assembly lube to help with assembly.
17. Tap in the new seal with a large socket (or piece of pipe) and plastic mallet.
18. Reinstall in reverse order. All the bolts have torque specs that you will need to look up.


This is in no way all inclusive but is the gist of what needs to take place.... and now you see why it is quoted at $1600.

This job would likely take me all day long and I do have all the tools to do it, those who attempt this witout all the tools.... God help them.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Bogus919, wow! Thanks for taking the time to talk about all that! It sounds like they earn their money even at $1,600. I am no mechanic. My bro-in-law is (part time) but idk... I'll be reconsidering. This is heavy.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top