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(REPOST FROM THE "EXTERIOR" SECTION OF THE FORUMS, THIS IS A BETTER FITTING CATEGORY)

*EDIT: If you have a buddy to help it will make the process much easier, as a fairly large southern boy it was manageable but exhausting. Winch and mount weigh in at 110-120 lbs with rollers.

Well, everyone around here has sort of been kicking around the idea of installing a winch so I thought, "the National Preserve is re-opening this weekend why not install a winch and do some exploring?" So here it goes, tonight I gave the battery wires a make over, I...I...cut them OFF!!! (well they were loose and wouldn't tighten) so it was time to go, the wires now have a ring terminal soldered on and a "marine" style post to bolt battery adapter, and a VERY large grounding cable has been added to the front frame grounding point. Hopefully tomorrow I will have time to run the positive cable to the rear of the vehicle, it will be 3/0 wire as I have about 30' left over from a previous project and it is cheaper than buying new wire and letting the 2/0 continue to sit around. The mount is a CURT hitch receiver winch mount. The winch of choice is a Superwinch Tigershark 9500, I have never gotten stuck offroading so I didn't go with a big "performers" so to say, if it saves me once its already made up the total cost of install.


First you will need a winch, appropriate wire, hitch mount receiver, and an appropriate connector.

As stated I had some left over 3/0 wire and decided to use that, I ran the wire down the front of the engine bay where the OEM ground cable runs to the bottom of the engine and then it runs in front of the main 2" tube that sits just above the plastic guard, from there it follows the main frame along the fuel and brake lines, then through the cage around the thingy with the honeycomb look on one side, (fuel pump I believe?) then just above the first plate on the rear diff. there is about a 1" hole that I threaded the wire through and then over the back frame of the diff and finally around the trunk and followed the hitch to the towing plugs. (You will want to use LOTS of zip ties or another method to hold the wire up, I did a tie about every 10-12")

For the negative I simply attached a larger grounding wire to the front grounding point next to the battery, then just put a connector on one end of a piece of wire and attached it to one of the hitch mounting bolts and ran the other end to the towing plugs like the positive. (the frame will carry the current)

Now you will need your connector, I used an SB175 normally used on heavy electrical machinery, It fits nicely in between the towing power plugs and safety chain loops. Several zip ties to the wire and connector hold it firmly in place. (these connectors have to be crimped on but if using aluminum wire they can be "brazed" on using a low temp aluminum brazing rod much like soldering, they will not come apart if done correctly.)

Now for hooking up the winch as said in the beginning I switched my OEM battery connector over to marine style connectors and then attached the supplied fuse and connected the positive. (you can see in the video) I used a CURT hitch winch mount and the manual shows the outer set of holes is for the handles but the mounting holes on the tiger shark fit into these outer holes. (don't forget the roller fair lead) You can use any of the hitch holes (on the OEM hitch at least) and it will clear by a few inches even on the shortest hole. On the tigershark wires you will need to cut the ring terminals off and attach the SB175 plugs, these must be crimped on as the winch wires are copper, I use the inside of a pair of bolt cutters (the side where the handles come together) it isn't pretty but its not coming apart.

Now its ready to connect insert the winch into the receiver and properly secure it then connect the SB175 plugs together and its almost ready to go.

You will need a nice straight stretch of land and a secure object at one end to finalize the install, attach one end of the cable to the object(a tree in my case) and slowly have a buddy drive the vehicle until there are only 5-6 wraps of cable on the winch drum, now put the vehicle in neutral and apply the parking brake about 30-50 percent enough to cause a load but not drag the tires, then winch in all the cable guiding it and taking a break about 1/2 way through to let the motor cool if needed. (if putting the vehicle in park during said break remember to put it into neutral again...:act029:)

Now its fully spooled and ready to work when needed, I just put a little tension on the cable and the hook prevents it from going through the fair lead, you don't want to rip the fair lead off just enough tension the cable doesn't unroll. You could also loop the hook back onto the winch or some other thing.

Here is the link to the video of testing it as well as a look at the front wiring.
https://vimeo.com/71608781

Will update a Youtube video in a few...

:act035:
 

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Old thread but I'm wondering if anyone has done the wiring run from front to back on a Gen 2 Ridgeline? I need to run some 4 gauge wires for an auxiliary power and a 12 gauge wire from the ignition signal line to a connection to my RV solar charger which has an input from the tow vehicle. The 12V 20Amp line to the 7-way connector is not going to cut it for my 40Amp charge controller.

Thanks in advance.
John - Colorado Springs
 

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I have not run that length yet, but have had a 1500W inverter sitting in my closest for a few years along with a similar size cables.

Running a 4AWG front to back is no joke. The best way to route is on one of the rails of the enclosed frame rails on the underbody. You can run it where the fuel line goes, or on the opposite side. Then be creative on how to get that cable moved up.
I presume you would have some sort of quick connectors, like an Anderson connectors that are marine grade to combat the elements?
I am curious as to what this will connect to and how you plan on connecting everything together.
 
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