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I have posted this in the "Black Navi Paint Problems" and decided to start a new thread based on paint questions and problems. I have some expertise here as I was a body and paint man before and during college (20 years ago) while studying to be an engineer. So, here's what I know about common paint problems...how to identify and how to fix and when to get a professional. :D

Water Spots - Circular ring, usually different sizes and usually found on the upper surfaces. Can usually be washed out or waxed out. In extreme cases, a buffer can be used. BEWARE!!! of burning through the paint with the buffer. If you are not confident, take it to a professional detailer.

Stone Chips - Small areas of broken or chipped paint on the leading edges of your truck or near the bottom behind the tires. To repair, clean each area to be touched up with a cleaner to get rid of the wax (I use rubbing alcohol - wipe on, wipe off) and then dab your touch up paint into the affected chip.

Acid Rain - Like water spots except they won't come off! Take this to a PROFESSIONAL! They will usually wet sand with 1000grit sandpaper and then buff. This sometimes works if the "acid rain etching" is not too deep. By sanding just the clear coat, the paint is not damaged. If this does not work, repainting is another option.

Brake Fluid, Transmission fluid, etc - This fluid will actually dissolve your clearcoat and paint. After it goes through your paint it can etch your body panel material. It usually does not affect the rubber body panels because of the urethane additive to make the paint "flexible". Again, go to a PROFESSIONAL. They will have to sand the paint down to bare metal and then clean and sand the bare metal. I have seen this damage repaired the wrong way and the spots reappeared after a few weeks.

Tree Sap - Usually warm soapy water will take this off. You might have to give the areas with sap a few "baths" to get this off.

Tar - Go to any auto parts store and buy some bug and tar remover. Remember, after using this or any solvent wax should be reapplied.

Bugs - Same as tree sap. For really "stuck on" bugs (painted surfaces only) I just take a really wet soapy rag and lay on the area for a few minutes. This loosens up the suicidal bug's remains enough to just wash off.

Remember! Take the above information as you would anything you read on the internet!(with a grain of salt) Always question and never do anything you are not 100% sure of. I hope it helps some of you with your initial diagnosis of your paint troubles. Most everyone can fix the water spots, the bugs and tar and tree sap problems. Anything else, take to a body or detail shop and remember to get two estimates! ;)
 

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Nice post bro. Definetly helps. I heard 50/50 water and white vinager takes out water spots too. Ever hear that? Thanks

Mike
 

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The last couple washings of my Ridge I’ve been noticing water spots on my glass (not the paint, I believe the polish and wax is protecting that) and couldn’t get them off NO MATTER WHAT I DID. :eek: They appeared to have started etching I presume from something in the water. Last week I ordered “DP High Performance Glass Restorer” from AutoGeek. I received and tried it tonight and it worked extremely well. It’s like polishing your glass. You can feel the roughness on the glass as you are applying and it gets smooth and effortless as the gunk comes off. Then it’s a wipe with a clean cloth and the glass looks like new. :cool:
 

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jch...sounds great. I'm gonna have to try that. Can you find this in auto parts stores? Never heard of it before. I too hate driving with dirty glass. :)
 

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My truck has a paint blemish. The dealer tried to fix it by buffing but it now looks even worse. The dealer is offering to repaint. I have had some friends tell me from past experience that it will not match or the repainted area will not last as long as the factory paint. Do you recommend having them repaint?
 

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My truck was rear-ended with less than 2,000 miles on it, requiring the replacement of the tow hook and rear bumper cover. The color match was perfect. Repainting, if done right, can be as good as factory.

However, I'd propose having them pay for a detailer to look at it before doing something as drastic as repainting.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There are many ways to paint a damaged panel. If the whole panel needs replaced (bumper or fender) the whole panel needs painted. If it is a spot in the middle or somerwhere on the panel, the bodyman might opt to "blend" the paint. This is usually the better choice on high metallic trucks. They will sand the entire panel, paint over the fixed portion and clear coat the entire panel. This way, even if the paint does not exactly match the original, the difference in color will not show up at the edge of the panel...like between the door and fender. My neighbor just got a steel blue Acura MDX last night and there is a big difference between the bumper covers and the body panels. They told him that was normal and I tend to agree. Some colors are the same whether painting the rubber covers or the steel panels. Some colors will be different, due to the different additives required for the flexible paint. Metallic paint is sometimes tough to get right. You could give paint to 5 different painters from the same quart of paint and end up with 5 different shades of color. Air pressure, humidity, etc. play a major role in how the paint turns out.
 

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Thanks! for the really great information here. I'm going out to check mine right now!!
 

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Tex's Ridge said:
jch...sounds great. I'm gonna have to try that. Can you find this in auto parts stores? Never heard of it before. I too hate driving with dirty glass. :)
I found the product on AutoGeek's web site (very informative car care site). I looked for it in the local auto parts store and they didn't carry it so I ordered it from AutoGeek. When I ordered I had the option for a free DP catalog so I clicked on it and it turns out DP has quite the extensive car care catalog of products and a very well done brochure.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I notice a lot of questions in "Washing, Waxing and Detailing" could be answered with this thread. Could you move it Zero to that section and put iti on top? Thanks.
 

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The newer the vehicle, the better chance you have of matching the color. One of hardest things to do is to pseudo-age the fading amount in the new paint mix in a matching attempt. I too used to paint cars for a living and if you find a good craftsman, they will be more picky than your eyes ever thought possible.
 
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hiPSI said:
I have posted this in the "Black Navi Paint Problems" and decided to start a new thread based on paint questions and problems. I have some expertise here as I was a body and paint man before and during college (20 years ago) while studying to be an engineer. So, here's what I know about common paint problems...how to identify and how to fix and when to get a professional. :D

Water Spots - Circular ring, usually different sizes and usually found on the upper surfaces. Can usually be washed out or waxed out. In extreme cases, a buffer can be used. BEWARE!!! of burning through the paint with the buffer. If you are not confident, take it to a professional detailer.

Stone Chips - Small areas of broken or chipped paint on the leading edges of your truck or near the bottom behind the tires. To repair, clean each area to be touched up with a cleaner to get rid of the wax (I use rubbing alcohol - wipe on, wipe off) and then dab your touch up paint into the affected chip.

Acid Rain - Like water spots except they won't come off! Take this to a PROFESSIONAL! They will usually wet sand with 1000grit sandpaper and then buff. This sometimes works if the "acid rain etching" is not too deep. By sanding just the clear coat, the paint is not damaged. If this does not work, repainting is another option.

Brake Fluid, Transmission fluid, etc - This fluid will actually dissolve your clearcoat and paint. After it goes through your paint it can etch your body panel material. It usually does not affect the rubber body panels because of the urethane additive to make the paint "flexible". Again, go to a PROFESSIONAL. They will have to sand the paint down to bare metal and then clean and sand the bare metal. I have seen this damage repaired the wrong way and the spots reappeared after a few weeks.

Tree Sap - Usually warm soapy water will take this off. You might have to give the areas with sap a few "baths" to get this off.

Tar - Go to any auto parts store and buy some bug and tar remover. Remember, after using this or any solvent wax should be reapplied.

Bugs - Same as tree sap. For really "stuck on" bugs (painted surfaces only) I just take a really wet soapy rag and lay on the area for a few minutes. This loosens up the suicidal bug's remains enough to just wash off.

Remember! Take the above information as you would anything you read on the internet!(with a grain of salt) Always question and never do anything you are not 100% sure of. I hope it helps some of you with your initial diagnosis of your paint troubles. Most everyone can fix the water spots, the bugs and tar and tree sap problems. Anything else, take to a body or detail shop and remember to get two estimates! ;)
May I be so bold as to add to this most very informative post?? Thank you!! :D
Many years ago when I drove semi-truck over the road, I hauled a load for a roofing company. When I delivered the products to them, I struck up a conversation ( not being friendly or anything like that ) with a roofer and we talked about tar removal. He handed me this plastic bag with 4 pink handi-wipe looking rags and said "here try these". I did and let me tell you, it was like wiping water off a kitchen counter. Very to no effort required. AMAZING. I have not used them for several years because I have more time to care for my vehicles with one child then when I had five. I have wanted to stop so many times to see if they still carry it. Maybe some of you out there know about it. I never saw anything work so well on anything in my life. I will try to remember to stop and report back.
:p
 

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hiPSI said:
My neighbor just got a steel blue Acura MDX last night and there is a big difference between the bumper covers and the body panels. They told him that was normal and I tend to agree. Some colors are the same whether painting the rubber covers or the steel panels. Some colors will be different, due to the different additives required for the flexible paint. .
I notice that on my white RTL both the front and rear bumper covers look slightly different than the metal body. You can only notice in bright light. Anyone else with a white Ridgeline notice the same? I figgured that metal and plastic show paint slightly differently. But on my Infiniti it is a perfect match.
 

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Ridgeline-Fla said:
I notice that on my white RTL both the front and rear bumper covers look slightly different than the metal body. You can only notice in bright light. Anyone else with a white Ridgeline notice the same? I figgured that metal and plastic show paint slightly differently. But on my Infiniti it is a perfect match.
I see a slight difference on my white RL but it isn't too bad. I reckon it's caused by the additives that make the paint flexible on the covers. I can live with it as long as it doesn't get worse.
 

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Ridgeline-Fla said:
I notice that on my white RTL both the front and rear bumper covers look slightly different than the metal body. You can only notice in bright light. Anyone else with a white Ridgeline notice the same? I figgured that metal and plastic show paint slightly differently. But on my Infiniti it is a perfect match.
I notice the same. It seems to depend upon the light on the Ridge.
 

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Water spots on glass

I have found that the Mother's Clay Bar (or any other) will do wonders on glass for the water spots. It will also make the glass very smooth, just like it does the paint. Give it a shot!

TS
 

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Re: Water spots on glass

troutscout said:
I have found that the Mother's Clay Bar (or any other) will do wonders on glass for the water spots. It will also make the glass very smooth, just like it does the paint. Give it a shot!
Is clay recommended for glass? My glass seemed somewhat rough and etched when I bought the truck so I used DP High Performance Glass Restorer to treat it. It did a fantastic job of restoring the glass to a smooth and spot free condition. I highly recommend this product (it was recommended to me by another ROC-Head). :)
 

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Ridgeline-Fla said:
I notice that on my white RTL both the front and rear bumper covers look slightly different than the metal body. You can only notice in bright light. Anyone else with a white Ridgeline notice the same?
I never noticed the difference on Plain Jane until I came across a similar thread here a while back.
... thanks a bunch! :( :D

Ya ever wonder if the ROC sometimes has too much information? :eek:
 

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Re: Water spots on glass

ridged said:
Is clay recommended for glass?
Apparently... I am trying out the Blackfire products based on recommendations at www.properautocare.com. Last night I was looking at their PolyClay information and found this:

Don't forget your windshield!
Contamination on your windshield can cause wiper blade chatter and poor blade performance. Replacing the blade will not help. Using a clay on the windshield dramatically improves wiper blade performance while reducing skipping and chattering.

I hate that film that shows up after a while, and jumps out at you every time the blade crosses the glass. Thanks for all the suggestions, ROCers!
 
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