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Remote start stopped working

23830 Views 24 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  HankHillF3
Today the remote start on my RTL-E stopped working. It worked early in the morning but in the afternoon I noticed that it doesn't work any more. The other odd thing is that when I press the lock button it used to beep and turn signals used to blink once. Now it when I press the lock key it locks the car but it doesn't beep or blink. Tried with the second remote but it didn't make a difference. Went into the head unit settings and found that the remote start is ON.

I'm wondering if I somehow activated some safety feature that I don't know about?
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The remote start only works twice "remotely" before you have to start the car the normal way with the keyfob in the truck and pushing the engine start button-- then the remote start will reset and work again (twice only)

Could this be your problem?
The remote start only works twice "remotely" before you have to start the car the normal way with the keyfob in the truck and pushing the engine start button-- then the remote start will reset and work again (twice only)

Could this be your problem?
Unfortunately that's not the problem, I know how to activate it and that you can start it twice. I think the issue is that it doesn't acknowledge that the truck has been locked before I press the remote start button. This used to work fine until yesterday afternoon.
-do a lock check:

Lock the doors with the remote, then leave it far from the truck. Walk over and check all 4 doors and the trunk. Be sure they all lock.

Go back to remote, unlock, then check all 5 are unlocked.
-do a lock check:

Lock the doors with the remote, then leave it far from the truck. Walk over and check all 4 doors and the trunk. Be sure they all lock.

Go back to remote, unlock, then check all 5 are unlocked.

Did that. It locks the doors and trunk but doesn't beep or blink with the turn signals any more. Scheduled appointment at the dealer for Wednesday and will report back here. They will also do the harness recall.
Just got a call from the dealer. They said front passenger door latch needs to be replaced.
Remote Start has quit working

So, out of the blue...my remote start that's been fairly reliable has quit working via my keyfob.

I replaced the battery just to make sure it was not causing this to happen.

Any thoughts on what i can do to get it working again? Any cause for this to stop?

I am at a loss....

D
Re: Remote Start has quit working

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Thanks @jimbosr1
Re: Remote Start has quit working



Thanks. I also noticed that when i double click my fob to lock the truck does not flash its lights or beep.

Guess its time to take it to the dealer........sigh~
Did that. It locks the doors and trunk but doesn't beep or blink with the turn signals any more. Scheduled appointment at the dealer for Wednesday and will report back here. They will also do the harness recall.


Harness Recall?
Harness Recall?
There was/is a partial wiring harness recall on the early (2017?) models. Your dealer will be able to pull it up based on your VIN if you are effected. They may need time to order the part in, so give them a call prior to just dropping it off for the lock issue.

As far as the lock goes it could be like the other poster, a faulty electronic latch, a bad lock actuator, etc. they should be able to trace it fairly easy-hopefully you’re still under warranty!
Based on a hunch and what previous posters in this thread have said you should do a quick check on each door to see if the interior lights come on/turn off when the door is opened/closed

The reason I say this is because there is a switch for the open/closed status on each door and if that has failed/stuck/whatever the vehicles computer will not know the door is closed and won't allow itself to be locked until it receives the signal that the door is closed

Hope that makes sense
There was/is a partial wiring harness recall on the early (2017?) models. Your dealer will be able to pull it up based on your VIN if you are effected. They may need time to order the part in, so give them a call prior to just dropping it off for the lock issue.

As far as the lock goes it could be like the other poster, a faulty electronic latch, a bad lock actuator, etc. they should be able to trace it fairly easy-hopefully you’re still under warranty!
Dropped my RL off just moments ago. My RL did NOT have the wiring harness recall :)

Its up to their tech nerds to sort out whats up with my remote. Glad i bought the extended platinum warranty!
Dealer called and said it was something to do with my rear passenger door not locking. Some part went out and has not been locking which keeps the remote start from working.
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Re: Remote Start has quit working

Thanks. I also noticed that when i double click my fob to lock the truck does not flash its lights or beep.

Guess its time to take it to the dealer........sigh~
Make sure the spare key is NOT in or near the vehicle or it will not remotely start.... as info...
My 2018 remote start stopped working. I just got back from Service and they asked if the truck was ever in an accident. I said no. They said the codes they pulled suggested the truck was fixed by a body shop. I was like "huh"? The reason the remote start wasn't working was because the hood latch wire was disconnected and they concluded that the body shop disconnected it. I didn't even know there was one, much less how it would have been disconnected. Last time it was at Service was this Summer for a fuel pump cover recall. Then I took it to my own garage not long ago to get an oil change. I know they wouldn't have unplugged it.
Regardless, they wanted $155 for an hour's worth of labor:eek:. I said no way not for plugging a wire back in. I thought it was a warranty issue, but he said that he can't verify that someone didn't tamper with something so it's not warranty. He reduced the cost to $75.:rolleyes:

How would a hood disconnected wire throw codes suggesting an accident/repair? I assume the codes he got were airbag deployment and others. I'm wondering if the VCM module I have which keeps the truck in 6cyl all the time has something to do with the codes and the remote start/hood wire are totally separate.
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Regardless, they wanted $155 for an hour's worth of labor:eek:. I said no way not for plugging a wire back in. I thought it was a warranty issue, but he said that he can't verify that someone didn't tamper with something so it's not warranty. He reduced the cost to $75.:rolleyes:
Reading that makes me livid. I would refuse to pay a penny and would call the police if they didn't return my vehicle to me. If the police told me to pay the $75, I would do so then demand reimbursement from Honda. If that didn't work, I'd take them to small claims court. They'd need to prove the vehicle had been tampered with.

How would a hood disconnected wire throw codes suggesting an accident/repair? I assume the codes he got were airbag deployment and others. I'm wondering if the VCM module I have which keeps the truck in 6cyl all the time has something to do with the codes and the remote start/hood wire are totally separate.
A disconnected "security hood switch" or an open in that circuit will not set a DTC. It will, however, prevent the alarm from arming and remote start from working because the vehicle will think the hood is not closed. The MICU looks for a ground on an input when the hood is closed. Since there is no DTC for "disconnected security hood switch", the tech must visually and/or electrically inspect each component associated with a condition required for proper operation and/or look at the input state on the HDS for each of these components to determine which one to take a closer look at.
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Reading that makes me livid. I would refuse to pay a penny and would call the police if they didn't return my vehicle to me. If the police told me to pay the $75, I would do so then demand reimbursement from Honda. If that didn't work, I'd take them to small claims court. They'd need to prove the vehicle had been tampered with.
Not to play conspiracy theorist, but how do I know they didn't intentionally disconnect it during the Summer when it was in for the recall knowing that it wouldn't work come cold season, only to screw me out of some money.
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Reading that makes me livid. I would refuse to pay a penny and would call the police if they didn't return my vehicle to me. If the police told me to pay the $75, I would do so then demand reimbursement from Honda. If that didn't work, I'd take them to small claims court. They'd need to prove the vehicle had been tampered with.



A disconnected "security hood switch" or an open in that circuit will not set a DTC. It will, however, prevent the alarm from arming and remote start from working because the vehicle will think the hood is not closed. The MICU looks for a ground on an input when the hood is closed. Since there is no DTC for "disconnected security hood switch", the tech must visually and/or electrically inspect each component associated with a condition required for proper operation and/or look at the input state on the HDS for each of these components to determine which one to take a closer look at.
What's DTC? Where is the hood latch wire located?
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