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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. I'm really flustered and would appreciate any advice. I have a 2006 Ridgeline RTS. I was on a long commute when the dash lights began to fade, speedometer/tachometer dropped to zero, AC cut off, and a few miles later I lost all power and the truck cut off. A jump start would only get me a few miles before it died again so I tested the alternator, which turned out to not be generating power. (I also had the battery tested and it was fine).

I bought and installed a high-output alternator (200 amp vs OEM 130 amp), jump started the truck, and it ran for about 5 minutes before dying again. I jump started it again then disconnected the negative terminal. The engine died instantly. Clearly its drawing power only from the battery until it runs out.

I should note that when I got the new alternator in and put the serpentine belt back in place, the belt was significantly looser than it was before. It seems to still be spinning each component at the same speed it did before, and I don't hear any squeaking or see shaking (Not sure if this has any bearing on the issue or not).

Is it possible the alternator somehow isn't getting the power its generating where it needs to go or could the loose belt be creating the issue?

I only have basic repair knowledge so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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The alternator's output is controlled by the PCM. It's possible the alternator isn't being told to charge by the PCM due to a wiring problem or faulty PCM.

Are there any warning lights on?
 

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2019 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E; 2021 Flagstaff EPro e19FD trailer
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Check the charging line from the alternator to the battery for oxidation at the connector. I unnecessarily changed the alternator on a Saturn Vue, and the new alternator tested Bad. Turns out the generic positive battery clamp that I had installed about a year earlier had oxidized under the clamping plate. (Not visible until disconnected.). A quick wire brushing and reassembly, and all was well. Expensive lesson, easy fix.
 

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When was the last time you changed the serpentine belt? If I had those type of problems, I would have my battery checked, then disconnect the terminals, clean them with wire brush, clean posts, check other end of those battery lines. Disconnect those lines, clean those ends. Same with alternator connections, both ends.
Good luck. I had an 06 G-1 also. Now a 2018.
Have you changed all your fluids lately?
Rear end is not as difficult as you think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The alternator's output is controlled by the PCM. It's possible the alternator isn't being told to charge by the PCM due to a wiring problem or faulty PCM.

Are there any warning lights on?
Right before it died for the first time, the "D" light (Drive) was flashing.

The alternator's output is controlled by the PCM. It's possible the alternator isn't being told to charge by the PCM due to a wiring problem or faulty PCM.

Are there any warning lights on?
Would a failing PCM thow and OBD code?

How did you test the battery?
I popped it out and took it to AutoZone.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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@jot0220 a failing PCM might be identified with an HDS (Honda Diagnostic System) most OBD scanners only really check emissions related equipment

If you still have the original alternator, you could have it tested, and you could have the vehicle charging system tested (charge your battery and then drive somewhere close by) and they might be able to identify the relevant electrical systems.
 

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The loose belt tells me you need to remove the pulley wheel on the replacement alternator and put your original wheel on it instead.
However, betting you have already turned in the original as a core.... you now have to figure out what shorter belt fits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey everyone. I'm really flustered and would appreciate any advice. I have a 2006 Ridgeline RTS. I was on a long commute when the dash lights began to fade, speedometer/tachometer dropped to zero, AC cut off, and a few miles later I lost all power and the truck cut off. A jump start would only get me a few miles before it died again so I tested the alternator, which turned out to not be generating power. (I also had the battery tested and it was fine).

I bought and installed a high-output alternator (200 amp vs OEM 130 amp), jump started the truck, and it ran for about 5 minutes before dying again. I jump started it again then disconnected the negative terminal. The engine died instantly. Clearly its drawing power only from the battery until it runs out.

I should note that when I got the new alternator in and put the serpentine belt back in place, the belt was significantly looser than it was before. It seems to still be spinning each component at the same speed it did before, and I don't hear any squeaking or see shaking (Not sure if this has any bearing on the issue or not).

Is it possible the alternator somehow isn't getting the power its generating where it needs to go or could the loose belt be creating the issue?

I only have basic repair knowledge so any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

So I feel really dumb. It turns out when installing the new alternator, I managed to blow the fuse for the PCM (number 18 under the dash). I replaced it and now the truck runs perfectly.

Thank you all so much for your advice and help!!!
 

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Thanks for the follow up @jot0220
Moderator Note: Thread Title Changed
 

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So I feel really dumb. It turns out when installing the new alternator, I managed to blow the fuse for the PCM (number 18 under the dash). I replaced it and now the truck runs perfectly.

Thank you all so much for your advice and help!!!
If this qualifies as dumb, I’ve been dumb a lot of times. Probably safe to say so have many folks on this board. Not dumb, just normal stuff. Glad it worked out.
 
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