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2020 RTL-E, Deep Scarlet Pearl
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Replaced the front speakers in my RTL-T with a set of JL Audio TR650-CSi's. Sound is so much better especially the highs - very crisp and had to set the tremble control down a few points. Do not notice any reduction in the overall volume. Now that these are installed it shows the need for a good sub which will be next. Tweeter install required making the opening in the front pillar but mounting the tweeter from the front cover up any roughness.

Did some sound deadening while I had it all apart and will post some more install pics later as I go through the pictures.

Definitely worth the upgrade.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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In the G1 there is an Airbag , in that A pillar.

Did you remove the A pillar cover, do you have any instructions or pictures on how you removed it if you did? Where did you run the wiring? Did you install a crossover or a low pass filter?

More info the better?
 

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fvg's profile says 2017 RTL-T which has the tweeters in the A pillar already. No wires to run. I believe he says he had to trim the existing hole for the tweeter, but the trim covered any mess.
 

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2020 RTL-E, Deep Scarlet Pearl
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Some more install pictures - there are air bag components behind the A-Pillar - Honda service says to disconnect the battery before removing the A-Pillars which I did.
Installed the door speakers first and tested both sets on the first door including the tweeters since I could do that without dis-connecting the battery.
Speaker door install was very straight forward - remove the door panels, remove the speaker, install the speaker adapter and wiring adapter, and then install the new speaker. I used sound deadening inside the door, around the outside of the speaker, and on the speaker adapter.

I made a tweeter harness from the old tweeters as I do not like altering any factory wiring if I can avoid it. It just plugs into the existing harness in the truck.

These JL audio speakers just use an in line filter for the tweeter so no new wiring to run.
 

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Good work Sir, I just finished this install this weekend with similar steps. I did not do the tweeters yet, but will use your work as a guide. Thank you!

BBQ - You cannot use 2-way Speakers. The ones with the tweeter mounted on the actual speaker. You will need to use components that have a separate tweeter. This is also true for the rear doors.
I do not believe you need "special" shallow mount mid drivers. You do need to trim the back side of the speaker grille ring on the inside of the door panel once removed. I used a drimmel to cut them flush with the grille.

Speaker Ring adapters and wiring adapters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6W7BFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Speakers I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004THAWHG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I dynamatted the outer and inner door skins like FVG, as well as used closed cell foam on the outer door skins to help with road noise. This upgrade alone did wonders for the stock speakers and will really let your upgrades shine.
 

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Thanks, for the info. I was going to buy two-way speakers, you saved me.

I assume there isn't a full signal going to the door speakers?

I was considering adding the Infinity Primus 6 1/2" Component Speaker System adding the tweeter in another location while still using the A-pillar tweeter. If there isn't a full signal going to the door the tweeter would be non-functional.

Something similar to this.


I'm currently waiting on speakers, amp, wiring kit, line out converter carpet and more. I will start a thread when I complete my project.



 

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Hi BBQ,
The door speakers do have some range, but I don't know if it's filtering out the high tweeter frequencies. The speakers did not have any filters on them or near the wiring, so if it's filtering, the amp is doing it. I don't plan to use the crossovers from the Alpine's that I had because I'm just replacing the factory tweeters and assuming the amp is filtering for me.
 

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Does the head unit have 2 sets of front speaker wires coming out of it or 4 sets? You certainly could be right that the head unit is sending a filtered signal to the tweeters but obviously it would need a separate set of wires coming out of it just for the tweeters.

In the GenI, for instance, there is only 2pairs of speaker wires for the fronts. The tweeters themselves have a filter built into them and when you install replacement tweeters, the crossovers are required.

Have fun!
 

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2020 RTL-E, Deep Scarlet Pearl
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wiring depends on the model - the RTL-T that I have feeds a full signal to the woofer and tweeter from the head unit with the only filtering occurring at the tweeter. For the RTL-E and above that uses an external amplifier had separate outputs for the woofer and tweeter.
 

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Ah, very interesting FVG. Thank you for the diagram, it really helps. I did not see a return wire that I'm used to off of the door speaker. The door speaker only had a 2 wire connection (pos,neg) not 4 wires. So it must have been split before getting into the door.
 

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The OEM tweeter in my RTL-T is KILLING ME. Its tinny and shrill.

Does anyone know what speakers can be popped in its place? Not real keen on modifying the plastic holders.

Oh, and if anyone knows the specs i need to follow. Wattage, ohms etc.

D
 

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Great writeup! I am seriously thinking of replacing the front and rear door speakers, and the tweeters. Probably will leave the sub as is for now. This is all great information. Just wondering if 1) would an upgraded amp also be worthwhile ?, and 2) how involved is it to remove the door panels and the A-pillar cover?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Door panels come fairly easily - The A-Pillar is just one bolt but there are air bag component behind it so use caution and observe Honda's warnings. Speakers sound quite good off without adding any additional amps.

Total system is now the JL audio's in the front, Polk Audio DB652's in the rear doors, and a Focal 10" sub under the rear seat. I have dis-connected the ANC as it caused quite a few issues once the sub was installed. All speakers are driven off the stock head unit and the sub off a new amp - tapped the rear speakers for the input to the sub.
 

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Great thread. Thanks. What manual are Honda diagrams you've posted from? Looks like a factory service manual. Is that available online? TIA.
 

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Thanks, for the info. I was going to buy two-way speakers, you saved me.

I assume there isn't a full signal going to the door speakers?

I was considering adding the Infinity Primus 6 1/2" Component Speaker System adding the tweeter in another location while still using the A-pillar tweeter. If there isn't a full signal going to the door the tweeter would be non-functional.

I'm currently waiting on speakers, amp, wiring kit, line out converter carpet and more. I will start a thread when I complete my project.

Do you have any finished pictures of your subwoofer box with amp install?

Thanks

Looks good so far!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Amp and LOC are under the passenger seat and I did get all of it wired without removing the seat.
Remote for LOC is in the center console.

Hardest part of the install was getting the power wire from the battery inside the truck - I used the grommet on the drivers side but getting a hole through it was a bit of a pain. I have a flat wire snake that I filed a point on the end and using that I could poke a hole through the grommet from under the dash
 

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Me and a few buddies helped a girl put a sub under the back seat in her Silverado in college.

We called it the I Don't Need A Man Seat due to the vibrations LOL
 
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