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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So back in March, I fell victim to the SMOD...

Had the radiator replaced and the transmission rebuild at a recommended local shop to the tune of $3,200.

After a couple months, I noticed ATF on the driveway. Took it back to the shop and they said the connection to the radiator was leaking; so the tightened it up.

Week or so later, leaking again..took it back again.
And again...
And again...
And again...
This time they swapped out the radiator for a new one. Promising me that this issue was taken care of.

That was last Monday...so far no ATF leaking...but during on oil change on Friday the dealer said my PS pump was leaking (that's another thread). So today I'm looking around trying to see if I can figure out where the PS is leaking and I notice...



Call me crazy...but that's not the solution I expected....
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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Well that's an interesting solution. I'll be curious to learn what the shop says about their "fix" when you bring it to their attention.
 

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Yeah, definitely an eyebrow raiser.

That radiator hose clamp looks pretty rusty. If I paid to have a new radiator installed on a 2006, particularly if the hoses and clamps are the originals, I would be leary of the shop that didn't replace them.
 

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2006 Ridgeline RTS in Steel Blue
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WOW, That a solution that some have suggested. Unsure how many have attempted that.

How's it been shifting, any other issues, lights???
 

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So I have to assume they put a union on the transmission lines bypassing the cooler and they're just recirculating?
No, Having changed mine out twice, It would just be a change of where hoses were connected. Since I've yet to determine the flow direction it's a little difficult to describe without just getting under there and looking at it. If you look at the attached image from BernardiParts.com, Hose 22 would be connected to the Transmission, (It's a very standard size, easily replaced at what ever length necessary) Hose 25, would be connected where Hose 22 was removed.


Red, they have also lost some parts which will be necessary to put it back in order.
Specifically:
Image# #021 Part#25210-RJE-000 Desc: PIPE C (ATF) MSRP:$42.77 Save:$12.75 Price:$30.02


I'm with CCC, I'd ask for my money back, although I think that may be difficult to achieve with out a small claims filing or attorney.
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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That is absolutely not a "fix". Bypassing the fluid transfer assembly inside the radiator will not allow the transmission fluid to warm up as quickly as it should. Technically, it could cause excess wear on the transmission (especially in a very cold climate), but I honestly don't think it would be a long-term problem. Now, a shop that bypasses this OEM design and DOES NOT TELL YOU ABOUT IT... that's a whole other story altogether. I would be absolutely livid. That should not happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, so I had a chance to talk to the shop today. Was busy at work all last week.

According to them, they added a larger aftermarket external cooler. ($150 upgrade)

He says he intended to tell me, but wasn't there when I picked up the truck. And it slipped his mind.

He also said there's no external cooler on the truck...which if I recall from posts here isn't true. There is a factory installed external cooler, and the part inside the radiator isn't really a cooler but more of a heat exchanger / warmer.

I don't have the SM available at work, I have it at home. But if anybody know's the pages to reference showing (naming) the piece inside the radiator and external cooler I'd appreciate them.

Also, anybody happen to have the dimensions of the factory external cooler?

I may make some screen shots and take a trip down there.

When I talked to him on the phone, he offered to put it back to the factory config. But insisted that this was better. As Carsmak mentioned, I know some here suggested exactly this fix. But unsure if anybody is actually running with it.

I haven't noticed any detrimental effects. Though the truck is throwing a P0128 (Coolant Thermostat). But it was doing that before, which is why I had them replace the thermostat during the last visit when they said they were going to replace the radiator. However, it seems both fans are running more than they should be. As I understand it, the AC fan shouldn't run at all unless the AC is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The trans cooler is pictured in the SM on page 14-242, no dimensions though.

The 2nd fan will also run if the defroster setting on the HVAC panel is chosen.
Thanks!

Yeah, I'd expect that. But I had HVAC turned off completely and both fans were kicking on at the same time.

What temp should the engine cooling fan kick on at?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Should be about 206°F.

May want to check the wiring connection at the coolant temperature sensors (both are located near/in the thermostat housing).
OK, I'll do that...seems they were kicking on about 180 or so which didn't seem right.

Truck doesn't seem to be warming up like it used too. Which explains the code, and if the fans are kicking on when they shouldn't be...
 

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OK, I'll do that...seems they were kicking on about 180 or so which didn't seem right.

Truck doesn't seem to be warming up like it used too. Which explains the code, and if the fans are kicking on when they shouldn't be...
The truck isn't warming up as fast or as well because it's likely that the new thermostat that was put into the truck isn't the stock 205-210 degree one - more likely a 180 degree one. This is an old trick used in performance cars which keeps the engine cooler during operation. The downside is the vehicle takes much longer to reach operating temperature and never really gets up to that 205-210 degree temp.

The tranny fluid exchange unit inside the radiator serves the purpose of warming the tranny fluid from a cold start quicker so that the fluid reaches operating temp and, therefore, its most efficient viscosity, faster. It is NOT a cooler. The actual cooler is located on the front side of the radiator. If this shop supposedly installed an "upgraded cooler" without your knowledge or blessing, I think I'd be throwing an absolute fit with them to return the truck to complete OEM spec. I think I'd also take it as far as going to the BBB because that is simply an unacceptable practice.
 

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