Replacement speaker suggestions
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My particular favorite for your application: polk db651s. Great bang for the buck and runs well off head unit power alone. You can spend a whole lot more for only marginal gains. Got mine here: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9110_Polk-Audio-db651s.html
Also do the tweeters up front. Well worth it. The OEM tweeters are virtually worthless.
Also do the tweeters up front. Well worth it. The OEM tweeters are virtually worthless.
I used the Infinity 1031t. Good choice if you like crisp. They can be a little harsh sometimes on certain songs. They will take a little bit of tuning to get the balance as you like it but that is to be expected.
There are a lot of good tweeter choices and just about any of them will be a vast improvement.
I replaced my door speakers with Kenwood 6.5inch KFC1665s from Crutchfield. They were cheap, came with free brackets, free wire adapters and solid instructions.
I replaced my tweeters with Cadence Acoustics ZRS75T 1inch tweeters. They fit near perfectly and made a HUGE difference in sound quality in the truck. And they were cheap. (got them from amazon).
I replaced my tweeters with Cadence Acoustics ZRS75T 1inch tweeters. They fit near perfectly and made a HUGE difference in sound quality in the truck. And they were cheap. (got them from amazon).
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175 Posts
Thanks guys.
If I look at the Crutchfield site there are many tweeters available but they are of different sizes. I do not want to cut stuff if I can help it. What size or brand will give me this option?
I am also thinking I will add a small amp to power my existing sub like soccerdad has done.
I really don't want to add a box or more expense. I am not a big bass lover so just looking to fill in the lows a bit.
Any thoughts?
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115698
Oh and a silly question...but...where is the sub located?
If I look at the Crutchfield site there are many tweeters available but they are of different sizes. I do not want to cut stuff if I can help it. What size or brand will give me this option?
I am also thinking I will add a small amp to power my existing sub like soccerdad has done.
I really don't want to add a box or more expense. I am not a big bass lover so just looking to fill in the lows a bit.
Any thoughts?
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115698
Oh and a silly question...but...where is the sub located?
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5,671 Posts
Having such a nice head unit replacement, why not, just get components, a small 4 channel amp, to drive the fronts and the sub bridging 2 channels.
This may be too much for some but maybe some may want to do it.
JBL Gto 608C component set for $72 on sale at sonics, the tweeters should fit under the factory dash grill.
Either the kenwood Kak M3004 or the Soundstream Picasso 4 channel either could fit, next to the glove box or Dash. Both exceed power ratings. Under $110.00
The JBL passive crossovers placed somewhere behind the HU, new wire to dash tweeters from passive crossover, maybe two 3 ft RCA cables from HU to amp, amp speaker wire to passive crossover, Passive crossover out to aftermarket harness speaker wire from there to factory speaker wire for 6.5" door drivers. The components being 2 ohms, the amps will can potentially deliver close to 90 watts max to the components.
It will be all back there. Then with ch 3-4 bridged from amp speaker wires connect to the sub harness. The HU rear speaker wires to the after market harness to factory rear speaker wires and done.
All behind the dash or next to the glove box, no need to wire anything to the back or install an amp in the back.
A little extra work compared to the coax and tweeters, but not that much, and just an extra few dollars.
This may be too much for some but maybe some may want to do it.
JBL Gto 608C component set for $72 on sale at sonics, the tweeters should fit under the factory dash grill.
Either the kenwood Kak M3004 or the Soundstream Picasso 4 channel either could fit, next to the glove box or Dash. Both exceed power ratings. Under $110.00
The JBL passive crossovers placed somewhere behind the HU, new wire to dash tweeters from passive crossover, maybe two 3 ft RCA cables from HU to amp, amp speaker wire to passive crossover, Passive crossover out to aftermarket harness speaker wire from there to factory speaker wire for 6.5" door drivers. The components being 2 ohms, the amps will can potentially deliver close to 90 watts max to the components.
It will be all back there. Then with ch 3-4 bridged from amp speaker wires connect to the sub harness. The HU rear speaker wires to the after market harness to factory rear speaker wires and done.
All behind the dash or next to the glove box, no need to wire anything to the back or install an amp in the back.
A little extra work compared to the coax and tweeters, but not that much, and just an extra few dollars.
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175 Posts
Laserguy.
That was the info I needed :act035:
Thank you so much mate!
That sounds like a great system. And quite achievable for me to DIY.
So you think the stock sub will do it for me? Like I said earlier...I'm not a big bass lover. Just want it to get down there a bit.
I think I am going to pass on steering wheel control. I hardly use it.
I will be adding a backup cam though.
I'm assuming the Metra harness and dash kit is the way to go. Will I need an antenna adapter? Any relays?
Big mahalo to you!
That was the info I needed :act035:
Thank you so much mate!
That sounds like a great system. And quite achievable for me to DIY.
So you think the stock sub will do it for me? Like I said earlier...I'm not a big bass lover. Just want it to get down there a bit.
I think I am going to pass on steering wheel control. I hardly use it.
I will be adding a backup cam though.
I'm assuming the Metra harness and dash kit is the way to go. Will I need an antenna adapter? Any relays?
Big mahalo to you!
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175 Posts
Laserguy.
I've never heard JBL car speakers. How do they compare to some others. Is that your top choice? I listen to a lot of classical, jazz and progressive rock/jazz stuff.
They look like a great deal for sure. I noticed that Crutchfield say the new version GTO 609C do not fit due to the depth size.
On the amp. I am not a big switching fan so I like your class A/B suggestion as long as it will fit.
Also...is there a difference between the Metra or Schoshe dash kit? Or are they about the same.
I think I will go to Sonic for everything and they give the Schoshe kit for free.
Hope you don't mind all the questions!
I've never heard JBL car speakers. How do they compare to some others. Is that your top choice? I listen to a lot of classical, jazz and progressive rock/jazz stuff.
They look like a great deal for sure. I noticed that Crutchfield say the new version GTO 609C do not fit due to the depth size.
On the amp. I am not a big switching fan so I like your class A/B suggestion as long as it will fit.
Also...is there a difference between the Metra or Schoshe dash kit? Or are they about the same.
I think I will go to Sonic for everything and they give the Schoshe kit for free.
Hope you don't mind all the questions!
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388 Posts
The antenna adapter will come with the harness kit, make sure when you hook up the antenna wire, do not use blue wire on metra or schosche harness, tap into 12 volt power supply.. You don't need a relay, that is all preference.
I find it easier to use relay, for simple fact that you will be able to power amp, antenna adapter, steering wheel control if needed..
I like the metra kit.. Just use some ca glue to attach pocket and kit to ejother, if you want it not to come apart. I glued bolts and kit together so no flexing would happen..
I find it easier to use relay, for simple fact that you will be able to power amp, antenna adapter, steering wheel control if needed..
I like the metra kit.. Just use some ca glue to attach pocket and kit to ejother, if you want it not to come apart. I glued bolts and kit together so no flexing would happen..
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5,671 Posts
Yes, hi.
I'll do what I can, to cover most info.
For the money, and wanting factory locations, that jbl set is hard to beat.
Jbl is made by Harman, same company that makes infinity. Here is the link, Amazon also has extra reviews,
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...dium=paid&utm_campaign=criteo&utm_content=JBL
you can spend $100 raise the stage get some extra midbass, or you can spend up to $1000, on a set from hertz, like the MLK line, or a Morel brand with the Elates model, but having larger tweeters, it makes it difficult to place them on factory locations, and the installation needs sound deadening on the doors, maybe close inner door openings to get the most benefit from an expensive set, besides way more power. It does not cost too much to improve factory sound, if you want to take it to a much better level then, there are other options.
Several users here have used the factory sub, with a better amplifier, with acceptable good results, it is hard to know until you try it or know if you are willing to spend more for better or more bass.
If factory locations are important, it may be worth trying the OEM sub, Currently there are not any shallow aftermarket subs that can be placed in factory locations, unless fiberglass or .5" thick MDF wood is used to build a box, maybe some pioneer models and Dayton at parts express are the only choices for boxes that may fit behind the seat.
If you are willing to utilize some space under the rear seat, you can go with
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SBRS84/Alpine-SBR-S8-4.html?search=alpine_8_box&skipvs=T
Maybe sonic will also have it . It's a ported 8" and just seats under the rear seat, with minor strapping needed, maybe with an extra piece of wood, the seat posts can hold it and keep the box from moving or flipping, JL also makes almost an identical box version that just fits there.
Also as the sub and boxes get bigger, more power or an extra amp may be needed to get the most from them.
I share the same thoughts as Optimus on the relays use.
I'll do what I can, to cover most info.
For the money, and wanting factory locations, that jbl set is hard to beat.
Jbl is made by Harman, same company that makes infinity. Here is the link, Amazon also has extra reviews,
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...dium=paid&utm_campaign=criteo&utm_content=JBL
you can spend $100 raise the stage get some extra midbass, or you can spend up to $1000, on a set from hertz, like the MLK line, or a Morel brand with the Elates model, but having larger tweeters, it makes it difficult to place them on factory locations, and the installation needs sound deadening on the doors, maybe close inner door openings to get the most benefit from an expensive set, besides way more power. It does not cost too much to improve factory sound, if you want to take it to a much better level then, there are other options.
Several users here have used the factory sub, with a better amplifier, with acceptable good results, it is hard to know until you try it or know if you are willing to spend more for better or more bass.
If factory locations are important, it may be worth trying the OEM sub, Currently there are not any shallow aftermarket subs that can be placed in factory locations, unless fiberglass or .5" thick MDF wood is used to build a box, maybe some pioneer models and Dayton at parts express are the only choices for boxes that may fit behind the seat.
If you are willing to utilize some space under the rear seat, you can go with
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SBRS84/Alpine-SBR-S8-4.html?search=alpine_8_box&skipvs=T
Maybe sonic will also have it . It's a ported 8" and just seats under the rear seat, with minor strapping needed, maybe with an extra piece of wood, the seat posts can hold it and keep the box from moving or flipping, JL also makes almost an identical box version that just fits there.
Also as the sub and boxes get bigger, more power or an extra amp may be needed to get the most from them.
I share the same thoughts as Optimus on the relays use.
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175 Posts
Many thanks guys.
This info is priceless.
I am going to order up the gear today...probably from Sonic as they have the great deal on the JBL's and the Soundstream amp. With you guys around I don't need the Crutchfield crutch!
I know Harman very well Laserguy. I own a pair of Revel Ultima Salon 2's. They are a great company to work with.
I use the rear seat area of the truck constantly thus I'm loath to put a sub box there right now. So factory set up for now at least. But should I change my mind...will the Soundstream power a sub like the Alpine you suggested?
Lastly, can you guys please explain what the relay achieves.
Very excited indeed.
Mahalo and Aloha!
This info is priceless.
I am going to order up the gear today...probably from Sonic as they have the great deal on the JBL's and the Soundstream amp. With you guys around I don't need the Crutchfield crutch!
I know Harman very well Laserguy. I own a pair of Revel Ultima Salon 2's. They are a great company to work with.
I use the rear seat area of the truck constantly thus I'm loath to put a sub box there right now. So factory set up for now at least. But should I change my mind...will the Soundstream power a sub like the Alpine you suggested?
Lastly, can you guys please explain what the relay achieves.
Very excited indeed.
Mahalo and Aloha!
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11,315 Posts
mauiliner
You should post big pics of your Ridgeline (if you haven't already). Very interesting paint job.
Maholo!
You should post big pics of your Ridgeline (if you haven't already). Very interesting paint job.
Maholo!
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175 Posts
Should I get this wiring package for the Soundstream?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_98687_TruConnex-TC4KIT-44B-by-Metra.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_98687_TruConnex-TC4KIT-44B-by-Metra.html
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5,671 Posts
It's always good to try what we have, and upgrade later if we think we want to.
If possible I would try to set the power voltage gains around 160w or less for the factory sub, just to be safe.
The video on the test done here shows about 260W with 4 ch bridged. Bridging just 2 channels should deliver similar power, either sub alpine or JL sub should work fine with 250 watts and will deliver way better sound compared to the factory sub.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_79530_Soundstream-PN4.520D.html
About relays.
The way I understand it, and I do not claim to give the best explanation or know more than the average user, a relay reduces the heat generated if a power source is used by many devices, keeping from blowing a factory fuse, or in some cases damage the remote wire circuit from the replacement HU, if say the remote wire is used to turn on 3 or 4 amplifiers and a sound processor, etc. usually 2 amplifiers is a safe guide to use, with more devices used a relay may be needed.
The relay grounded gets constant power, and gets triggered by switched power, then out to devices properly grounded.
If only 1!or 2 amps will be used a relay is not needed, in the dash, you have constant power to the HU, and switched power, and using that to turn, the steering adapter, antenna adapter plus the HU, can generate some heat if the current exceeds the fuse rating of the switched power source being used.
If possible I would try to set the power voltage gains around 160w or less for the factory sub, just to be safe.
The video on the test done here shows about 260W with 4 ch bridged. Bridging just 2 channels should deliver similar power, either sub alpine or JL sub should work fine with 250 watts and will deliver way better sound compared to the factory sub.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_79530_Soundstream-PN4.520D.html
About relays.
The way I understand it, and I do not claim to give the best explanation or know more than the average user, a relay reduces the heat generated if a power source is used by many devices, keeping from blowing a factory fuse, or in some cases damage the remote wire circuit from the replacement HU, if say the remote wire is used to turn on 3 or 4 amplifiers and a sound processor, etc. usually 2 amplifiers is a safe guide to use, with more devices used a relay may be needed.
The relay grounded gets constant power, and gets triggered by switched power, then out to devices properly grounded.
If only 1!or 2 amps will be used a relay is not needed, in the dash, you have constant power to the HU, and switched power, and using that to turn, the steering adapter, antenna adapter plus the HU, can generate some heat if the current exceeds the fuse rating of the switched power source being used.
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5,671 Posts
That should be fine, since it is a short run and it comes with a 60 amp fuse.
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175 Posts
Here is the original build thread.
It sure did polarize some forum members
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33885
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175 Posts
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1,817 Posts
mauiliner,
Without reading thru the thread to understand the application, generically speaking... relays function as remote high current switches, triggered by a lower current source. They can be used to switch + or - current or reverse polarity. You'll find ample info using google terms "bosch relay wiring".
Pretty sure in the context of this thread: head units typically have two 12v + output wires turning on when the unit powers up (amp trigger & power antenna). Those circuits are have very low current capabilities, so if you are hooking up something (or a bunch of somethings) needing more than ~300mA (which is very small), you need a relay to carry the load.
Same goes for lights, motors, heaters, horns, ETC. Even heavy duty switches are limited to 20A, so relays are used to carry 30A or more.
BTW: I agree with the suggestion to post photos of your RL. Your avatar image is a tease! Let's see it!
Without reading thru the thread to understand the application, generically speaking... relays function as remote high current switches, triggered by a lower current source. They can be used to switch + or - current or reverse polarity. You'll find ample info using google terms "bosch relay wiring".
Pretty sure in the context of this thread: head units typically have two 12v + output wires turning on when the unit powers up (amp trigger & power antenna). Those circuits are have very low current capabilities, so if you are hooking up something (or a bunch of somethings) needing more than ~300mA (which is very small), you need a relay to carry the load.
Same goes for lights, motors, heaters, horns, ETC. Even heavy duty switches are limited to 20A, so relays are used to carry 30A or more.
BTW: I agree with the suggestion to post photos of your RL. Your avatar image is a tease! Let's see it!
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