[laserguy]

Having such a nice head unit replacement, why not, just get components, a small 4 channel amp, to drive the fronts and the sub bridging 2 channels.

This may be too much for some but maybe some may want to do it.

JBL Gto 608C component set for $72 on sale at sonics, the tweeters should fit under the factory dash grill.

Either the kenwood Kak M3004 or the Soundstream Picasso 4 channel either could fit, next to the glove box or Dash. Both exceed power ratings. Under $110.00

The JBL passive crossovers placed somewhere behind the HU, new wire to dash tweeters from passive crossover, maybe two 3 ft RCA cables from HU to amp, amp speaker wire to passive crossover, Passive crossover out to aftermarket harness speaker wire from there to factory speaker wire for 6.5" door drivers. The components being 2 ohms, the amps will can potentially deliver close to 90 watts max to the components.

It will be all back there. Then with ch 3-4 bridged from amp speaker wires connect to the sub harness. The HU rear speaker wires to the after market harness to factory rear speaker wires and done.

All behind the dash or next to the glove box, no need to wire anything to the back or install an amp in the back.

A little extra work compared to the coax and tweeters, but not that much, and just an extra few dollars.

 

[laserguy]

Yes, hi.
I'll do what I can, to cover most info.

For the money, and wanting factory locations, that jbl set is hard to beat.

Jbl is made by Harman, same company that makes infinity. Here is the link, Amazon also has extra reviews,
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...dium=paid&utm_campaign=criteo&utm_content=JBL

you can spend $100 raise the stage get some extra midbass, or you can spend up to $1000, on a set from hertz, like the MLK line, or a Morel brand with the Elates model, but having larger tweeters, it makes it difficult to place them on factory locations, and the installation needs sound deadening on the doors, maybe close inner door openings to get the most benefit from an expensive set, besides way more power. It does not cost too much to improve factory sound, if you want to take it to a much better level then, there are other options.

Several users here have used the factory sub, with a better amplifier, with acceptable good results, it is hard to know until you try it or know if you are willing to spend more for better or more bass.

If factory locations are important, it may be worth trying the OEM sub, Currently there are not any shallow aftermarket subs that can be placed in factory locations, unless fiberglass or .5" thick MDF wood is used to build a box, maybe some pioneer models and Dayton at parts express are the only choices for boxes that may fit behind the seat.

If you are willing to utilize some space under the rear seat, you can go with
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SBRS84/Alpine-SBR-S8-4.html?search=alpine_8_box&skipvs=T
Maybe sonic will also have it . It's a ported 8" and just seats under the rear seat, with minor strapping needed, maybe with an extra piece of wood, the seat posts can hold it and keep the box from moving or flipping, JL also makes almost an identical box version that just fits there.

Also as the sub and boxes get bigger, more power or an extra amp may be needed to get the most from them.

I share the same thoughts as Optimus on the relays use.

 

[laserguy]

It's always good to try what we have, and upgrade later if we think we want to.

If possible I would try to set the power voltage gains around 160w or less for the factory sub, just to be safe.

The video on the test done here shows about 260W with 4 ch bridged. Bridging just 2 channels should deliver similar power, either sub alpine or JL sub should work fine with 250 watts and will deliver way better sound compared to the factory sub.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_79530_Soundstream-PN4.520D.html



About relays.
The way I understand it, and I do not claim to give the best explanation or know more than the average user, a relay reduces the heat generated if a power source is used by many devices, keeping from blowing a factory fuse, or in some cases damage the remote wire circuit from the replacement HU, if say the remote wire is used to turn on 3 or 4 amplifiers and a sound processor, etc. usually 2 amplifiers is a safe guide to use, with more devices used a relay may be needed.

The relay grounded gets constant power, and gets triggered by switched power, then out to devices properly grounded.

If only 1!or 2 amps will be used a relay is not needed, in the dash, you have constant power to the HU, and switched power, and using that to turn, the steering adapter, antenna adapter plus the HU, can generate some heat if the current exceeds the fuse rating of the switched power source being used.

 

[laserguy]

Should I get this wiring package for the Soundstream?
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_98687_TruConnex-TC4KIT-44B-by-Metra.html

That should be fine, since it is a short run and it comes with a 60 amp fuse.

 

[laserguy]

Anyone have experience with this insulation material? Way cheaper than Dynamat.

http://tinyurl.com/hnsm6hk (50mil)
or
http://tinyurl.com/huhrzj5 (80mil)

Top 3 CLD butyl based type deadeners needing only 1/4 metal coverage are SDS ( only available at their website) Knukonceptz Kolosos ( not the resonace control version)
Dynamat Xtreme, if you can get a very good deal second skin damplifier pro going down the list in performance.

The best performance and value is Knu Kol. I can write many reasons, not to use anything else other than the names mentioned, either for being relabeled roof products made for flat horizontal surfaces and being asphalt based, making no difference if any in midbass response, and reducing resonance even using more or doubling the layers. There are other good ones like STP silver, it is just harder to find and not a lot of deals can be found.

1/3 coverage is all you need with any of these.
If you want to read, a lot of good info, here


http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

 

[laserguy]

Looks like a nice list of upgrades.

You may want to close the inner door openings, remove the plastic moisture barrier since you are treating the doors, for even better midbass response.

There are only 2 big holes in the front doors, the small one can be just covered with the same dampening material, the big one, you can cover it in many different ways depending on the material you choose.

Galvanized roof flash sheet metal or aluminum is the cheapest, ABS Plastic or plexiglass is another one 1/4" thick, and if you want to get fancy rivet nuts after drilling and touch painting the drilled areas. SS sheet metal screws if not using rivet nuts.

Gaps filled with closed cell foam, camper seal window seal with good adhesive, the bottom part of the the big long opening has a huge gap, maybe non hardening clay or caulk rope will be needed to fill the gap as I did mine. Or many layers of CCF.

Cover inner door edges and cover can simply be closed with the same dampening material or aluminum tape. Treat one side of the cover with the same 30-35% coverage of Knu Kol, in or out, no need to do both. leave space for cable and wire runs, a bit of CCF and duct tape around the cable, if the metal is sharp will help to seal and protect the cables.

The main thing is easier access to the motor or window assemblies in case service is needed.

If you decide to go with a layer of CCF and MLV (closed cell foam and Mass loaded vinyl)
there is no need to close the openings with sheet metal, the velcro and flexibility of the 1/8"CCF and MLV will mold to the areas and provide equal or similar function, according to the SDS site and direct response I had from the owner, the benefit of the MLV is less noise while driving but that is just another level door deadening and it is hard and time consuming with a lot of improvisation involved getting the door panels to snap properly in place, I went through it with my rear doors only.

If you have any other questions feel free to post them, good luck and I am glad I was able to help, other members also gave great information and contribution, and I hope others can benefit from the info from this thread.

Here is a recent video and if possible watch video on the link he recommends, this guy makes great videos, worth watching.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlm3gXwrvxI

Usually the the adapters supplied by the after market speaker manufacturer are not quite thick, leaving a big gap between the door panel and the speaker, a 3/4" thick spacer will work for our doors, closing the gap or reducing most of it to keep sound from staying between the panel and the inner door. The F.A.S.T. rings are not needed for our doors, although some may still want to pay the high tag and use them.

If you decide not to make your own baffle spacers and use the JBL ones, by all means, the F.A.S.T. rings will be worth the high price tag, since ABS, or HDPE plastic is expensive

 

[laserguy]

With the 4-channel amp bridged do the rear speakers get any additional amplification? Or just the fronts?

I'm thinking of doing the JBLs in all the doors, adding the sound stream amp and adding two additional tweeters if that is even possible. I want to keep the stock head unit. I like the look. Any help is appreciated. I used to do this stuff to my cars (30 years ago) but not sure if I can do it anymore.

I am not sure I would also do component separates on the rear, it is extra work, and gets complex placing the passive crossovers, unless you place them on the door panel, coax would be fine and easier. Not sure what you mean by extra tweeters, you may want to just add coax and then a set of tweeters with their passive crossovers.

If Keeping the factory receiver, I would make sure the amp has high level inputs or speaker wire inputs. HU speaker wires to amp, and amp to speaker factory wire.

New speaker wire from the passive crossover to the dash factory grills will simplify things.
Maybe Amp speaker terminals to passive crossover, using new wire to the passive, then new wire to tweeters, and connect factory speaker wire to the xover output speaker terminals. Cutting the factory wire is inevitable but it simplifies things.

I am thinking for you it may be easier to put 4 coaxials, and add a tweeter with their little passive connected to the factory wiring. And simply place the amp between the HU speaker wires and the other end of factory speaker wires and done. Much simpler than the earlier suggestion