[OhSix]

mauiliner,
Without reading thru the thread to understand the application, generically speaking... relays function as remote high current switches, triggered by a lower current source. They can be used to switch + or - current or reverse polarity. You'll find ample info using google terms "bosch relay wiring".

Pretty sure in the context of this thread: head units typically have two 12v + output wires turning on when the unit powers up (amp trigger & power antenna). Those circuits are have very low current capabilities, so if you are hooking up something (or a bunch of somethings) needing more than ~300mA (which is very small), you need a relay to carry the load.

Same goes for lights, motors, heaters, horns, ETC. Even heavy duty switches are limited to 20A, so relays are used to carry 30A or more.

BTW: I agree with the suggestion to post photos of your RL. Your avatar image is a tease! Let's see it!

 

[OhSix]

Just getting started on the installation...at last!
I have seen several different applications of sound deadening/vibration control material on this site.
I have 3 sheets of Kno Knoise material about 1.75 sq ft each........ 23" x 11"
If I cut two of them into three strips about 4 inches wide is this enough to cover the outer skin?
The 3 spaces between the reinforcement bars are actually about 7" wide.
Some installs I've seen here cover the whole outer skin...others just use a few strips.

There is no wrong way to apply - or amount of - deflex materials to be used in open metal door skins. Most recommendations out there have more to do with maximizing value - or getting the biggest bang for the buck - by minimizing the use of costly materials - than it does about max_noise reduction. In other words, lots of material is not bad - but there is a diminishing return on investment. I did mine like this - which is what I think you have in mind. Sheets cut to fit below and above the door brace running full length front-to-back.

Aside from ambient noise reduction, there was a noticeable (and measurable) effect on the sound of door closure - changing from thin to thick. A hard sound to describe. Perhaps higher quality, almost like a class upgrade.

Make sure to give the inner door skins and good wipe down with alcohol.

You are in for a treat!

 

[OhSix]

That looks like you have pretty well filled the spaces between the bars.
I was hoping to get away with putting a 4" strip in each aprox 7" section.
But common sense tells me I should buy more and fill it completely like you have.
Can't tell you how stoked I am to get this done.......I'm a HiFi nut and this is gonna be a treat!

Follow your original plan - you'll do well. Most obvious will be at lower speeds - less rumbling from the door skins flexing with road vibrations. And door closing will actually be something that'll make you go WOH.

When I lived on Oahu, most driving was low speed so you'll be in the sweet spot. Your system will breath easier and have more head room by not having to overcome road induced irritants.

 

[OhSix]

Hi guys.

I am installing my avc-5100NEX and have a couple of wires I'm not sure about.

Where do the "Reverse Signal Input" and "Car Speed Signal Input" leads go?
Also the green Parking Brake lead.

Where should I place the mic and the GPS antenna?

I want to use my iPhone to play music. What is the best way to do this? USB, line, ?

Thanks for your help.

Dear Mr. MauiMan,

Are you installing rear view camera? If so, there's a fairly easy wire in a densely populated connector near the fuse box. I have images somewhere how I did mine but my info came from this wonderful forum anyway, so you should be able to find it. Green wire, plug behind the fuse panel/foot well cover right.

If you aren't installing a rear view camera, fuggetaboudit.

Car Speed Signal input comes from the vehicle PCM. It tells the Head Unit GPS what the vehicle is doing.

On the parking brake connection, it needs to be connected to the switch located top of the foot pedal assembly. If you don't plan on watching video, don't worry about connecting it.

OR, you could install a do-dad to fool the head into thinking the brake is applied. Search for "MicroByPass". Should be around $20.

On the handsfree mic, this is where I put mine. Others have placed it in the rear view mirror area or on top of the steering column cover in front of the Speedo. What ever you decide, you want it to have air space around it (for noise cancelling) and should be more or less pointed at the drivers mug.

"Best way" to play music from the phone is USB. You've invested pretty good in this set up so don't cheap out now! Having said that, depending on the Bluetooth profiles in your head unit and phone, you might be satisfied with apex or hi-def BT audio. Look into that on your equipment. Its easier to live with than a cable and the latest audio profiles are making lots of people happy. Try it before committing cuz its so easy to change f you don't like it. The head will (or should) control the iPhone too. Either way, it integrates nicely.

And get an air vent mount. Puts the phone right where it should be!

 

[OhSix]

Which air vent mount do you use OhSix?

At the moment using a "Kenu". It's a spring clamp - works well but its a two hand release which is just a bit of a pain. There are magnet mounts that attach and release much easier. I'd recommend going that route. Check out Amazon's selection. Cheap and very handy.

Amazon.com: magnet air vent cell phone holder: Cell Phones & Accessories

 

[OhSix]

Just ordered the Speigen.

Any recommendations for a back-up camera to go with the NEX?
I'm thinking...I've come this far!

License frame cameras are the least intrusive to install, no new holes in body plastic/metal and the location is optimal for backing to a trailer tongue. Most any other option requires drilling or custom work.

Wireless eliminates video cable run to the head unit so that might be something you'd prefer. If you've always wanted to get behind the bed panels to clean up years of accumulated road dust, now would be the time cuz that's what it'll take to run wires the factory way. Or cables could follow structural rails under the truck and route cable into the cab a new way.

If you go wireless, the receiver gets mounted up front, out of sight - easy to do with things apart for the rest of your system.

Either way, you gotta get 12VDC to the camera and/or wireless transmitter - "easiest" way is tapping the reverse light at the rear lens.

FYI: mine is in this thread. Some shots of cable routing might be helpful. BTW: bed panel removal is like most work on this truck. Easy peasy.

 

[OhSix]

There are a few threads in the the Exteriors section on backup cams. I've only glanced at them but you seem to have 2 options.
1. Use one of the license plate cams. It's pretty easy to install.
2. Go with a factory looking option that is more difficult to install but looks like it came from the factory.

IMO the factory camera is perfectly hideous, cosmetically speaking. A big fat ugly box on the tail gate sheet metal. PFFFT.

BUT, I forgot about this one: there is a 2009 tail gate handle that could be purchased which would facilitate an aftermarket body mount camera. Check out this thread - another way to easily hide a cam.

MauiMan: I also forgot to mention: running composite video the factory way requires a lotta interior disassembly. Which might not be too bad if you already have rear seat and trim parts removed.

Can't seem to find a link to factory instructions. I think its on H and A somewhere - its too big to attach.

 

[OhSix]

Mr Lucky Maui Man. The 12V + mentioned yesterday is detailed in this thread.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...-there-easy-way-tap-reverse-sensing-wire.html

Lets see some pics when you're done!

 

[OhSix]

Thanks OhSix.
That was really helpful.

Almost there.
So where did you guys run the amp power line through the firewall?
The amp is going next to the glove box on the left hand side.

Check out the grommet located behind the brake booster, top right corner side firewall just under the fresh air cowl. Large grommet with a nice rubbery space around the factory umbilical running through it. Make a small slit in it with a fresh utility blade being careful to stay away from the wire bundle. Creating a slit smaller than the wire your are pushing thru it makes for a nice dust/water seal. You'll be working mostly blind - by feel from the engine compartment - cuz its back there a ways but you'll get it.

Wire enters the cab up at the top of the e-brake pedal assembly. Make sure to stay away from moving parts and you'll be good.

 

[OhSix]

It's in at last :grin:
I will post picks in a few days.
But meanwhile...... I can't get the sub to work.

I have...
HU front line out to amp front line inputs with a pair of rca's.

Amp Front speaker outs to passive JBL x-overs.
Amp Rear spk outs are bridged R+L- and R-L+ to the stock sub wiring harness. This is where I think I have a problem.

HU rear spk outs via stock wiring harness to rear spks.

Question.
Will the amp send a signal to it's rear speaker outputs if I have only connected rca's to the front inputs?
Should I have bridged these outputs or just connected R/L+ to sub + and R/L- to sub - ?

Dazed and confused!

Mr. Lucky Maui Man, Remind which amp you are using? Based on your wiring description, it sounds like the amps outputs are shorting to ground - which shouldn't cause damage if the amp has robust output protection. There are specific wiring schemes for amps of different topology. Most of the time, "bridging" a two channel amp to mono operation means using R + and L + to connect the + / - of the bass speaker.

Check yer manual or post your amp model.

 

[OhSix]

I have the Soundstream Nano PN4.520D
Interestingly the instruction manual is very vague on the subject and the on line manual does not match the physical one as regards the illustrations!
This is a 4 channel amp and it's just the rear channels I'm using for the factory sub.

Many mahalos for the help OhSix.

Yah, it is unclear! Do this:

Connect Gray to sub +
Connect Green to sub -

Leave the grey/black & green black unconnected, capped or taped off.

That assumes you are using the amps rear channel inputs/speaker outputs to drive the sub.

Sorry, I'm following every part of the thread that closely. Just to be sure, the Pioneers sub output RCAs are connecting to the amps rear channel inputs, yes?

 

[OhSix]

I just connected the fronts up to the rear amp channels and they are working fine...so no blown amp

But I had not connected the sub out to the rear amp in.....DOH!!!!!!

But I tried to run just one speaker wire (pair) to the sub ... amp out right+ and left- ......no sound when I plug the front HU output rca's into the amp rear channel inputs. ( I need to open up the dash again to get the sub out rca's connected.)

I saw that top illustration but could not figure what it was.
I'm assuming it is a generic connector diagram as my amp has screw speaker connectors not a plug.
It seems to indicate that i should connect the RR+ and FL- to the sub?
That seems weird.

So sorry for my not grasping this.....I'm normally way better at this stuff!!!!

Weird day. Time change and all. YOU ARE CORRECT. The color codes I posted are WRONG. GUH!

The BRIDGE is accomplished by R Right positive and Left negative (either front or rear) to a single speaker.

SORRY. It's bed time.

 

[OhSix]

Yippee! You did it. Congratulations!
I've prattled on endlessly about the positive virtues of the factory sub. Very glad it's working for you. Mind if I make a suggestion? If you play around with the cabinet stuffing or bracing or whatever, leave the seat out so you can assess any changes, good or bad before buttoning everything up. IMO the Pioneer designed sub is an excellent design and handles more power than most people think. The port doesn't chafe and it makes nice bass for its size. You might find changing its tuning with extra stuffing and such does more harm than good. Experimenting is the only way to know so have at it. And enjoy!