He did see the thread below.
Here is the original build thread.
It sure did polarize some forum members
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33885
Replacement speaker suggestions
21 - 40 of 69 Posts
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11,332 Posts
I think it's cool! I am big on self expression!Here is the original build thread.
It sure did polarize some forum members
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33885
I remember the thread now I saw it again.
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175 Posts
Anyone have experience with this insulation material? Way cheaper than Dynamat.
http://tinyurl.com/hnsm6hk (50mil)
or
http://tinyurl.com/huhrzj5 (80mil)
http://tinyurl.com/hnsm6hk (50mil)
or
http://tinyurl.com/huhrzj5 (80mil)
Joined
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5,676 Posts
Top 3 CLD butyl based type deadeners needing only 1/4 metal coverage are SDS ( only available at their website) Knukonceptz Kolosos ( not the resonace control version)
Dynamat Xtreme, if you can get a very good deal second skin damplifier pro going down the list in performance.
The best performance and value is Knu Kol. I can write many reasons, not to use anything else other than the names mentioned, either for being relabeled roof products made for flat horizontal surfaces and being asphalt based, making no difference if any in midbass response, and reducing resonance even using more or doubling the layers. There are other good ones like STP silver, it is just harder to find and not a lot of deals can be found.
1/3 coverage is all you need with any of these.
If you want to read, a lot of good info, here
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
Joined
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175 Posts
Thanks to all for you the invaluable help with this project.
On the way......
Pioneer ACIC-5100NEX
JBL JBL GTO608C component speakers
Soundstream Soundstream PN4.520D amp
Metra 40-HD10 Antenna Adapter
Metra 70-1729 Receiver Wiring Harness
Metra 95-7870 Dash Kit
Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter
Metra TruConnex TC4KIT-44B amp connection kit
Kno Knoise Kolossus Edition insulation sheets
Just don't tell the wife!
Let the fun begin :unwrap:
On the way......
Pioneer ACIC-5100NEX
JBL JBL GTO608C component speakers
Soundstream Soundstream PN4.520D amp
Metra 40-HD10 Antenna Adapter
Metra 70-1729 Receiver Wiring Harness
Metra 95-7870 Dash Kit
Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter
Metra TruConnex TC4KIT-44B amp connection kit
Kno Knoise Kolossus Edition insulation sheets
Just don't tell the wife!
Let the fun begin :unwrap:
Joined
·
5,676 Posts
Looks like a nice list of upgrades.
You may want to close the inner door openings, remove the plastic moisture barrier since you are treating the doors, for even better midbass response.
There are only 2 big holes in the front doors, the small one can be just covered with the same dampening material, the big one, you can cover it in many different ways depending on the material you choose.
Galvanized roof flash sheet metal or aluminum is the cheapest, ABS Plastic or plexiglass is another one 1/4" thick, and if you want to get fancy rivet nuts after drilling and touch painting the drilled areas. SS sheet metal screws if not using rivet nuts.
Gaps filled with closed cell foam, camper seal window seal with good adhesive, the bottom part of the the big long opening has a huge gap, maybe non hardening clay or caulk rope will be needed to fill the gap as I did mine. Or many layers of CCF.
Cover inner door edges and cover can simply be closed with the same dampening material or aluminum tape. Treat one side of the cover with the same 30-35% coverage of Knu Kol, in or out, no need to do both. leave space for cable and wire runs, a bit of CCF and duct tape around the cable, if the metal is sharp will help to seal and protect the cables.
The main thing is easier access to the motor or window assemblies in case service is needed.
If you decide to go with a layer of CCF and MLV (closed cell foam and Mass loaded vinyl)
there is no need to close the openings with sheet metal, the velcro and flexibility of the 1/8"CCF and MLV will mold to the areas and provide equal or similar function, according to the SDS site and direct response I had from the owner, the benefit of the MLV is less noise while driving but that is just another level door deadening and it is hard and time consuming with a lot of improvisation involved getting the door panels to snap properly in place, I went through it with my rear doors only.
If you have any other questions feel free to post them, good luck and I am glad I was able to help, other members also gave great information and contribution, and I hope others can benefit from the info from this thread.
Here is a recent video and if possible watch video on the link he recommends, this guy makes great videos, worth watching.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlm3gXwrvxI
Usually the the adapters supplied by the after market speaker manufacturer are not quite thick, leaving a big gap between the door panel and the speaker, a 3/4" thick spacer will work for our doors, closing the gap or reducing most of it to keep sound from staying between the panel and the inner door. The F.A.S.T. rings are not needed for our doors, although some may still want to pay the high tag and use them.
If you decide not to make your own baffle spacers and use the JBL ones, by all means, the F.A.S.T. rings will be worth the high price tag, since ABS, or HDPE plastic is expensive
You may want to close the inner door openings, remove the plastic moisture barrier since you are treating the doors, for even better midbass response.
There are only 2 big holes in the front doors, the small one can be just covered with the same dampening material, the big one, you can cover it in many different ways depending on the material you choose.
Galvanized roof flash sheet metal or aluminum is the cheapest, ABS Plastic or plexiglass is another one 1/4" thick, and if you want to get fancy rivet nuts after drilling and touch painting the drilled areas. SS sheet metal screws if not using rivet nuts.
Gaps filled with closed cell foam, camper seal window seal with good adhesive, the bottom part of the the big long opening has a huge gap, maybe non hardening clay or caulk rope will be needed to fill the gap as I did mine. Or many layers of CCF.
Cover inner door edges and cover can simply be closed with the same dampening material or aluminum tape. Treat one side of the cover with the same 30-35% coverage of Knu Kol, in or out, no need to do both. leave space for cable and wire runs, a bit of CCF and duct tape around the cable, if the metal is sharp will help to seal and protect the cables.
The main thing is easier access to the motor or window assemblies in case service is needed.
If you decide to go with a layer of CCF and MLV (closed cell foam and Mass loaded vinyl)
there is no need to close the openings with sheet metal, the velcro and flexibility of the 1/8"CCF and MLV will mold to the areas and provide equal or similar function, according to the SDS site and direct response I had from the owner, the benefit of the MLV is less noise while driving but that is just another level door deadening and it is hard and time consuming with a lot of improvisation involved getting the door panels to snap properly in place, I went through it with my rear doors only.
If you have any other questions feel free to post them, good luck and I am glad I was able to help, other members also gave great information and contribution, and I hope others can benefit from the info from this thread.
Here is a recent video and if possible watch video on the link he recommends, this guy makes great videos, worth watching.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlm3gXwrvxI
Usually the the adapters supplied by the after market speaker manufacturer are not quite thick, leaving a big gap between the door panel and the speaker, a 3/4" thick spacer will work for our doors, closing the gap or reducing most of it to keep sound from staying between the panel and the inner door. The F.A.S.T. rings are not needed for our doors, although some may still want to pay the high tag and use them.
If you decide not to make your own baffle spacers and use the JBL ones, by all means, the F.A.S.T. rings will be worth the high price tag, since ABS, or HDPE plastic is expensive
Question, why different speakers front and back?
Joined
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52 Posts
With the 4-channel amp bridged do the rear speakers get any additional amplification? Or just the fronts?
I'm thinking of doing the JBLs in all the doors, adding the sound stream amp and adding two additional tweeters if that is even possible. I want to keep the stock head unit. I like the look. Any help is appreciated. I used to do this stuff to my cars (30 years ago) but not sure if I can do it anymore.
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5,676 Posts
I am not sure I would also do component separates on the rear, it is extra work, and gets complex placing the passive crossovers, unless you place them on the door panel, coax would be fine and easier. Not sure what you mean by extra tweeters, you may want to just add coax and then a set of tweeters with their passive crossovers.
If Keeping the factory receiver, I would make sure the amp has high level inputs or speaker wire inputs. HU speaker wires to amp, and amp to speaker factory wire.
New speaker wire from the passive crossover to the dash factory grills will simplify things.
Maybe Amp speaker terminals to passive crossover, using new wire to the passive, then new wire to tweeters, and connect factory speaker wire to the xover output speaker terminals. Cutting the factory wire is inevitable but it simplifies things.
I am thinking for you it may be easier to put 4 coaxials, and add a tweeter with their little passive connected to the factory wiring. And simply place the amp between the HU speaker wires and the other end of factory speaker wires and done. Much simpler than the earlier suggestion
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13 Posts
I just put in 6.5" infinity reference 6032cf. They sound great. Super loud off head unit power.
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175 Posts
Just getting started on the installation...at last!
I have seen several different applications of sound deadening/vibration control material on this site.
I have 3 sheets of Kno Knoise material about 1.75 sq ft each........ 23" x 11"
If I cut two of them into three strips about 4 inches wide is this enough to cover the outer skin?
The 3 spaces between the reinforcement bars are actually about 7" wide.
Some installs I've seen here cover the whole outer skin...others just use a few strips.
I have seen several different applications of sound deadening/vibration control material on this site.
I have 3 sheets of Kno Knoise material about 1.75 sq ft each........ 23" x 11"
If I cut two of them into three strips about 4 inches wide is this enough to cover the outer skin?
The 3 spaces between the reinforcement bars are actually about 7" wide.
Some installs I've seen here cover the whole outer skin...others just use a few strips.
Joined
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1,817 Posts
There is no wrong way to apply - or amount of - deflex materials to be used in open metal door skins. Most recommendations out there have more to do with maximizing value - or getting the biggest bang for the buck - by minimizing the use of costly materials - than it does about max_noise reduction. In other words, lots of material is not bad - but there is a diminishing return on investment. I did mine like this - which is what I think you have in mind. Sheets cut to fit below and above the door brace running full length front-to-back.
Aside from ambient noise reduction, there was a noticeable (and measurable) effect on the sound of door closure - changing from thin to thick. A hard sound to describe. Perhaps higher quality, almost like a class upgrade.
Make sure to give the inner door skins and good wipe down with alcohol.
You are in for a treat!
Joined
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175 Posts
That looks like you have pretty well filled the spaces between the bars.
I was hoping to get away with putting a 4" strip in each aprox 7" section.
But common sense tells me I should buy more and fill it completely like you have.
Can't tell you how stoked I am to get this done.......I'm a HiFi nut and this is gonna be a treat!
I was hoping to get away with putting a 4" strip in each aprox 7" section.
But common sense tells me I should buy more and fill it completely like you have.
Can't tell you how stoked I am to get this done.......I'm a HiFi nut and this is gonna be a treat!
Joined
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1,817 Posts
Follow your original plan - you'll do well. Most obvious will be at lower speeds - less rumbling from the door skins flexing with road vibrations. And door closing will actually be something that'll make you go WOH.
When I lived on Oahu, most driving was low speed so you'll be in the sweet spot. Your system will breath easier and have more head room by not having to overcome road induced irritants.
21 - 40 of 69 Posts
