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I need to replace my 06 ridgeline rtl engine. Can I only put in a 2006 ridgline engine or can I place an later yr ridgeline engine in? I was even wondering about putting a pilot engine in?

Thanks
 

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I'm fairly certain that you can only use a '06-'08, the engine was updated in '09 so new computers and other parts would be required. You wouldn't want a Pilot or Odyssey as they have cylinder deactivation and those have there own issues
 

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2006-2008 is your only true "drop-in" option if you're talking about the whole engine (which I'm sure you are).
Anything else would require more trouble than it's worth.

Now if you're just talking about 'parts' of the engine (your own shop doing a rebuild), then that's a different conversation.... not sure where the "lines" are that you don't want to cross, but the block itself 'might' be the same. Would require some research, but really there's no point, unless you just have free access to a particular engine you want to consider.
Otherwise, stick with '06-'08.

Hope all goes well for you


:)
 

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When I needed the engine replaced in my '08, it was difficult/impossible to find a used, low mileage replacement. I had an ATK remanufactured engine installed. After 6k miles, all is great. It's smooth, quiet, burns no oil, and I get 21 mpg at 70-72mph.

Also, the engine came with all new timing components, so that's money I won't have to spend anytime soon. The engine required regular, non-synthetic oil (Castrol 5w-20) for the first 5,000 miles. I'm now running Mobil-1. ATK recommends Wix filters. At 500 miles, it got an oil change and valve adjustment.
 

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That's interesting that you did a valve adjustment at 500 miles. Was that recommended by ATK? What were the valve measurements when they were adjusted?
 

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yes, valve adjustment and oil change at 500 miles. All intake valves were perfect, but all exhaust valves were tight at around 0.006".
 

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I'm fairly certain that you can only use a '06-'08, the engine was updated in '09 so new computers and other parts would be required. You wouldn't want a Pilot or Odyssey as they have cylinder deactivation and those have there own issues

Ignore the Ody engine and Any 06-08 engine from a FWD Pilot due to VCM.
AWD pilots 06-08 did not have VCM.
 

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When I needed the engine replaced in my '08, it was difficult/impossible to find a used, low mileage replacement. I had an ATK remanufactured engine installed. After 6k miles, all is great. It's smooth, quiet, burns no oil, and I get 21 mpg at 70-72mph.

Also, the engine came with all new timing components, so that's money I won't have to spend anytime soon. The engine required regular, non-synthetic oil (Castrol 5w-20) for the first 5,000 miles. I'm now running Mobil-1. ATK recommends Wix filters. At 500 miles, it got an oil change and valve adjustment.
You didn't mention what it cost.... ??? This would be good info even just for comparison. I didn't know ATK was still out there. I got one of their engines way back in the 70s or early 80s (I really don't even remember now). It was great to just drop it in, and it wasn't very expensive either.
The story back then was, they had a readily available, inexpensive & steady supply of fairly low mileage engines to rebuild from salvage yards in Japan (these ATK rebuilds came from Japan back then), due to fairly short driving distances and fairly neglectful maintenance practices on the part of many owners over there (I can attest to that from my time there in '72 .... many folks just drove 'em & added gas 'til they died, and then replaced them when they died).
 

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Any reputable salvage part company will have a decent warranty to cover a used motor. Should be 12 month or 12k miles. Start at car-part.com.
 

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Any reputable salvage part company will have a decent warranty to cover a used motor. Should be 12 month or 12k miles. Start at car-part.com.
True, but you really don't want to have to exercise one of those warranties..... ESPECIALLY if you are paying someone else to install it. No great thing even if you're doing it yourself.
 

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You didn't mention what it cost.... ??? This would be good info even just for comparison. I didn't know ATK was still out there. I got one of their engines way back in the 70s or early 80s (I really don't even remember now). It was great to just drop it in, and it wasn't very expensive either.
The story back then was, they had a readily available, inexpensive & steady supply of fairly low mileage engines to rebuild from salvage yards in Japan (these ATK rebuilds came from Japan back then), due to fairly short driving distances and fairly neglectful maintenance practices on the part of many owners over there (I can attest to that from my time there in '72 .... many folks just drove 'em & added gas 'til they died, and then replaced them when they died).
COST? a freaking lot. including a new radiator, diagnosis, etc., around $7k. The remanufactured long block, including timing gear, water pump, oil pump, was around $3.5-$4k.
 

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yes, valve adjustment and oil change at 500 miles. All intake valves were perfect, but all exhaust valves were tight at around 0.006".
I'm really surprised that the valves moved that much in 500 miles. All the more reason to have a valve adjustment done with the TB/WP change, imo. And yes, the tight exhaust valves are to be expected... but still... 500 miles? Wow.
 

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the intake valves were all so perfectly in spec, but the exhaust valves were all so perfectly the same out of spec, I figured that the engine was built that way.
 

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the intake valves were all so perfectly in spec, but the exhaust valves were all so perfectly the same out of spec, I figured that the engine was built that way.
Sounds right to me..... it would be interesting to measure a new truck's valves to see if exhausts don't come tight from the factory. It would explain the consistent finding of exhausts being tight when members have 'done' this service. Not likely that's going to happen (opening up a new engine).
 

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It's smooth, quiet, burns no oil, and I get 21 mpg at 70-72mph.
I just wish I could figure out how you guys are getting 20 or 21 MPG at 70 mph. I get somewhere between 17 and 18 with cruise set at 75 usually making runs between Memphis and Nashville, Knoxville, Roanoke, or Birmingham.

I'd be happy to hit 19+ consistently on the highway.

Can imagine how guys are squeezing out 22-24 in some cases.
 

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I just wish I could figure out how you guys are getting 20 or 21 MPG at 70 mph. I get somewhere between 17 and 18 with cruise set at 75 usually making runs between Memphis and Nashville, Knoxville, Roanoke, or Birmingham.

I'd be happy to hit 19+ consistently on the highway.

Can imagine how guys are squeezing out 22-24 in some cases.
BIG difference between 70 & 75.... try it (cruise set at 70) and you'll probably see similar results if you're running flat lands.

Same goes for 65 vs. 70, and 60 vs. 65. Wind resistance a huge factor that gets mitigated by lower speed. Best mileage I believe is between 60 & 65, which of course nobody wants to drive on the open highway (myself included). :(
 

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Logically, exhaust valves should wear tight. As the valve seat erodes, the valve should be sitting lower and lower in the seat... which will tighten up the valve clearance. Any buildup on the intake valve seat should do the opposite and increase the clearance.

I would think (from a logical perspective), that a larger clearance will create noise vs a smaller clearance that would be quieter. Ergo, my continued puzzlement why Honda only calls for a valve adjustment if the engine is "noisy."
 

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As far as used motors, I dealt with many salvage companies when I worked in dealership parts. There are reputable companies and non-reputable but only in regard to their business practices. As far as the quality of the motors, I have found its the same everywhere. There is only so much a salvage company can do to vet a used car or engine and still maintain a viable business model. Some are better than others documenting the mileage and this is the key. I'd say it's about 80/20. As in 20% of the used motors we had an issue with. This was even with the good companies. Once the motor came in we stuck a boriscope in the valve cover, any sludge it went back. That brought it up to about 15% we had an issue with. But it could be a sensor or something. I would say about 5% had an issue that required complete replacement. That sucks, because you can't make money on that job, unless you overbill to begin with. So it's risk vs return. Once it's in the car and running good, chances are you will have no issues for the life of the vehicle.
 

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BIG difference between 70 & 75.... try it (cruise set at 70) and you'll probably see similar results if you're running flat lands.

Same goes for 65 vs. 70, and 60 vs. 65. Wind resistance a huge factor that gets mitigated by lower speed. Best mileage I believe is between 60 & 65, which of course nobody wants to drive on the open highway (myself included). :(
Not a lot of flat land around here. Some stretches in west TN, but as I go east it climbs to the Cumberland plateau and then over towards the Smokies.

I've read the sweet spot is 60-65. The weird thing is that the Ridgeline is the first vehicle where I haven't been able to get the EPA figure on the highway. Got a '98 Suburban that gets 15mpg at 70-75, a '97 Camry 2.2L that gets 30 or 31 at 70-75. Granted, I didn't track the mileage with the Fuelly app like I do with the Ridgeline, so it may have varied more than I knew.

Of course, the Suburban's 5.7 may thing nothing of cutting through a little more wind resistance and the other cars are not bricks like the Ridgeline, so that may be the explanation.
 

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Your Fuelly average is very close to mine. I've never seen more than 21.4 mpg on mine. I'll see high 19's (right at 20 mpg) on a longer road trip running 70-80 mph using cruise control... such as on our recent trip from central NC to Memphis and back. As usual, at any hint of a hill, the RL kicks down a gear or two to keep speed up, so I'm sure that didn't help the overall mpg any. Still got mid to high 19s though.
 
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