I just completed installing an upgraded audio system in my 2008 RTL. I am (was?) a complete newbie to car audio installation, never having pulled off any interior panels or wiring before. I was always afraid I would break something or create rattles or cause some electrical issue. After getting installation labor quotes of $600 to $800 or more from Best Buy and other local car stereo shops, I was motivated to attempt it myself by researching here on ROC and on the Web. After 3 full days taking my time, researching
on ROC and with Crutchfield and taking over 70 pictures, I have fully installed the system and it all works correctly. That said, if I made any errors or you see any dangerous situations in the pictures PLEASE speak up so I can correct it and prevent others from doing it.
First, huge credit and kudos to all of the ROC members here who have shared their mobile audio knowledge and experience (especially with photos!). Without their posts there is NO way I would have attempted this and I would be about $800+ poorer. So, thanks laserguy, rollinhonda, IanRTL, hofffam, norcali_bali, Truckin', htaddict, martinnyc, shovelhd, pgatour2b, tryme1x, nbot, coolbob and others too many to mention. Also, huge thanks to Crutchfield for their amazing tech support available late even on Sunday nights and the 4th of July! I am writing this experience to pay it forward and hopefully help any other Ridgeline owners who are considering upgrading their audio systems.
Here is the link to all of the pictures with descriptions of each: http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h257/Soulbender/2008 Ridgeline Stereo/
Here are the system components in order of installation:
Here are the tools I used:
SHOWN:
NOT SHOWN:
Here are some overall tips before you get started:
I will address each of the component installations in separate posts below.
on ROC and with Crutchfield and taking over 70 pictures, I have fully installed the system and it all works correctly. That said, if I made any errors or you see any dangerous situations in the pictures PLEASE speak up so I can correct it and prevent others from doing it.
First, huge credit and kudos to all of the ROC members here who have shared their mobile audio knowledge and experience (especially with photos!). Without their posts there is NO way I would have attempted this and I would be about $800+ poorer. So, thanks laserguy, rollinhonda, IanRTL, hofffam, norcali_bali, Truckin', htaddict, martinnyc, shovelhd, pgatour2b, tryme1x, nbot, coolbob and others too many to mention. Also, huge thanks to Crutchfield for their amazing tech support available late even on Sunday nights and the 4th of July! I am writing this experience to pay it forward and hopefully help any other Ridgeline owners who are considering upgrading their audio systems.
Here is the link to all of the pictures with descriptions of each: http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h257/Soulbender/2008 Ridgeline Stereo/
Here are the system components in order of installation:
- Dynamat: Two 2 Door Kits (10435), each with 4 12" x 36" strips
- Door Speakers: Polk DXi-650S Slim Mount 6.5" Coaxial speakers (2 pair) (includes speaker brackets and speaker harness adapters)
- Amp Wiring Kit: Scosche Revopak8 8-Gauge Revo Series Single Amp Wiring Kit (smaller 10-12 gauge kit would probably have been fine for Bazooka)
- Subwoofer: Bazooka 8" powered (BTA-8250D)
- Subwoofer Control: Bazooka RBCM-250
- XM Receiver: Pioneer GEX-P920XM
- HD Receiver: Pioneer GEX-P20HD
- Traffic Tuner: Pioneer ND-TMC10
- Steering Wheel Controls: Metra Axxess ASWC
- Head Unit: Pioneer AVIC-X940BT (includes dash kit, antenna adapter, wiring harness, and full Pioneer 1 year warranty)
- Parking Brake Bypass: MicroBypass
Here are the tools I used:
SHOWN:
- Posi-products Car Stereo Connectors (for splicing/connecting wires)
- Posi-products Wire Taps (16-18 gauge, expensive and did not work very well on smaller wires such as the Metra ASWC.)
- Wire Tap-In Squeeze Connectors (14-18 gauge, cheaper from Radio Shack and worked first time on smaller wires such as Metra ASWC and vehicle speed sensor tap)
- Tiny flathead screw driver (to pry up various small panels that the no-scratch tools cannot fit such as dash bezel and 3rd brake light screw covers)
- Pliers (to squeeze down the Wire Tap-In connectors)
- Hammer (to hit the prick punch to create pilot holes for speaker brackets)
- Prick Punch (to create pilot holes in door metal for speaker brackets, prevents drill bit from walking)
- 10mm box end wrench or socket (to disconnect battery negative terminal)
- Box cutter (mostly to cut Dynamat, also impromptu wire stripping)
- Philips head screw driver (to remove/attach door panels, head unit and 3rd brake light)
- #10 x 1/2" self-tapping sheet metal screws (useful to create new ground points on the frame wherever needed, only used 2 myself)
- 18 gauge wire (needed to connect ground for Metra ASWC (brown wire from vehicle harness) and to connect to vehicle speed sensor wire (white/red) in passenger kick panel)
- No-scratch Panel Removal Tools (used mostly to remove plastic pop rivets and around headliner, about $15 on Amazon)
NOT SHOWN:
- Drill with 1/8" and 9/64" drill bits (to drill grounding holes into frame (twice) and to drill speaker bracket holes in doors (12 total))
- #10 x 3/4" self-tapping sheet metal screws (need 12 to attach speaker brackets to doors)
- Sharpie pen (to draw out holes to cut on Dynamat)
- Wire strippers (mostly for 16 to 18 gauge wires)
- Dynamat Roller: Part 10007
- Wire Fishing Kit/Rod (to help route amp power wire through firewall, and run wires under B pillar panels between front and rear door sills)
- Duct or Masking Tape (to secure wires to the fishing rods)
- Zip ties (small to medium, to clean up wiring runs under the glove box and possibly in the sills)
- 1/2" Loom (to clean up wiring runs under the glove box and in the sills)
- Double-sided tape or velcro (optional to mount XM and HD receiver boxes under front seat to carpet and Bazooka remote control to pocket cubby under head unit)
- Portable work light(s)
Here are some overall tips before you get started:
- If you are doing this yourself, I cannot emphasize enough how helpful Crutchfield technical support is. Others here on ROC recommended them, I was skeptical, now I am a believer. They are a little more expensive, but their inclusion of the various brackets, adapters, full warranties and unparalleled technical support are HUGE for confidence when you get into a sticky situation where you are uncertain. They are open until midnight EST most days, they answer after two rings, and answered every question without hesitation.
- Another pair of hands and eyes is often helpful, such as pulling fished wires through, reaching hard-to-reach places under the dash, and holding the head unit while you are wiring up harnesses, Metra ASWCs, holding lights in position, etc. Kudos to my wife and son for helping me out.
- Spend a week or two in advance researching the components you want to install on ROC, Crutchfield, Youtube and on the web. Read customer reviews, read forum posts (even when installed in other vehicles) and look at the pictures to see how other people have done it.
I will address each of the component installations in separate posts below.