[62caster]

So I recently had a major service done on my 07 RTL (timing belt, serpentine belt, tensioner, water pump, plugs), and I can't tell if it's actually running funny, or just in my head.

Here are the only absolutely real things that have happened:

One time everything seemed to bog down and all my lights on the dash lit up. My mechanic said it was showing a crank position sensor error, which he said could happen since some of the coolant from the pump spilled on the sensor. If it happens again, he'll replace it for me.

Coolant reservoir is very low - mechanic added water and said to watch it, but most likely it was just air leaving the system and needed to be topped off. Again, he will help if needed.

Aside from that, it just seems like maybe it's running a little less smooth? I've noticed at top gear going about 40 mph it is at 1200 RPMs and seems to droan a bit. It also seems like MAYBE it's idling a little rougher? There is no severe shaking or anything. No apparent loss of power, either. I can't tell if I'm just looking for something wrong since it was such a large sum of money ($900), or if something is actually different about how it drives.

 

[bigdogrod]

i wonder if it's just the belt/ bearings being a little tight when new. i noticed a bit more vibration when they did mine, but they also replaced an engine mount that "mysteriously" broke just after they did the belt. i would have pitched a fit except for it was covered under warranty...

 

[62caster]

i wonder if it's just the belt/ bearings being a little tight when new. i noticed a bit more vibration when they did mine, but they also replaced an engine mount that "mysteriously" broke just after they did the belt. i would have pitched a fit except for it was covered under warranty...

Yeah maybe that's it... I don't know, it just sounds a little rougher to my ear. Not rough, but not what it was with the 10 yr old belt on there.

 

[Carsmak]

Engine Mounts IMHO are a weak point. That's something which I wish there were and aftermarket replacement for. They all seem to fail but the replacement looks identical and not necessarily any better. And failed or failing, to me they can cause other issues...

 

[62caster]

Engine Mounts IMHO are a weak point. That's something which I wish there were and aftermarket replacement for. They all seem to fail but the replacement looks identical and not necessarily any better. And failed or failing, to me they can cause other issues...

Interesting... would failing mounts cause what I'm seeing?

Also for details sake, the code that came up was P0389 after the TB change.

 

[OldNorske]

So I recently had a major service done on my 07 RTL (timing belt, serpentine belt, tensioner, water pump, plugs), and I can't tell if it's actually running funny, or just in my head.

Here are the only absolutely real things that have happened:

One time everything seemed to bog down and all my lights on the dash lit up. My mechanic said it was showing a crank position sensor error, which he said could happen since some of the coolant from the pump spilled on the sensor. If it happens again, he'll replace it for me.

Coolant reservoir is very low - mechanic added water and said to watch it, but most likely it was just air leaving the system and needed to be topped off. Again, he will help if needed.

Aside from that, it just seems like maybe it's running a little less smooth? I've noticed at top gear going about 40 mph it is at 1200 RPMs and seems to droan a bit. It also seems like MAYBE it's idling a little rougher? There is no severe shaking or anything. No apparent loss of power, either. I can't tell if I'm just looking for something wrong since it was such a large sum of money ($900), or if something is actually different about how it drives.

Did a Dealer do the work?

I suspect the timing belt was installed one tooth off.

 

[62caster]

So I recently had a major service done on my 07 RTL (timing belt, serpentine belt, tensioner, water pump, plugs), and I can't tell if it's actually running funny, or just in my head.

Here are the only absolutely real things that have happened:

One time everything seemed to bog down and all my lights on the dash lit up. My mechanic said it was showing a crank position sensor error, which he said could happen since some of the coolant from the pump spilled on the sensor. If it happens again, he'll replace it for me.

Coolant reservoir is very low - mechanic added water and said to watch it, but most likely it was just air leaving the system and needed to be topped off. Again, he will help if needed.

Aside from that, it just seems like maybe it's running a little less smooth? I've noticed at top gear going about 40 mph it is at 1200 RPMs and seems to droan a bit. It also seems like MAYBE it's idling a little rougher? There is no severe shaking or anything. No apparent loss of power, either. I can't tell if I'm just looking for something wrong since it was such a large sum of money ($900), or if something is actually different about how it drives.

Did a Dealer do the work?

I suspect the timing belt was installed one tooth off.

Independent mechanic... I thought maybe the same but I feel like from what I've heard, wouldn't it be REALLY rough and noticeable if that was the case? Almost not driveable?

 

[OldNorske]

My neighbor had in independent do the timing belt on his Pilot several years ago. It idled rough and hesitated sometimes. Plus was getting terrible mileage. Upon rechecking they discovered the belt had been installed just one tooth off. They did not do the procedure of rotating the engine both ways after installing the new belt to make sure everything was properly set.

When the belt was moved to the proper timing position the engine ran fine again.

 

[skelley521]

First things first. you said "...all my lights on the dash lit up."
This would be a flag for me to check battery/charging system and faulty grounds.
Test the battery, if old possibly replace.
Clean battery connections and I like to wire brush/anti-seize the body grounds.
Ridgelines are picky about battery/voltage/ground connections IMHO.
Good Luck.

 

[62caster]

First things first. you said "...all my lights on the dash lit up."
This would be a flag for me to check battery/charging system and faulty grounds.
Test the battery, if old possibly replace.
Clean battery connections and I like to wire brush/anti-seize the body grounds.
Ridgelines are picky about battery/voltage/ground connections IMHO.
Good Luck.

Appreciate it.. It threw a code for a faulty crank position sensor, which I was told by the mechanic was because coolant spilled on it. No issues since it was cleared out.

Independent mechanic said I have to bring it into Honda to have them reset the PCM since my old TB stretched out. Honda was confused about how this could cause the rough idling, etc.

I'm taking it to another mechanic tonight - a 25 yr Honda service tech. Hopefully he can fix it. I'm not sure what to do about the independent guy since he's a friend. Thinking maybe I'll ask for a refund on part of the labor.

 

[Carsmak]

First things first. you said "...all my lights on the dash lit up."
This would be a flag for me to check battery/charging system and faulty grounds.
Test the battery, if old possibly replace.
Clean battery connections and I like to wire brush/anti-seize the body grounds.
Ridgelines are picky about battery/voltage/ground connections IMHO.
Good Luck.

I completely agree with Skelley, I've had my my dash light up, I didn't think about that aspect when I first read this thread. Ultimately, I had a cell fail, amazingly it was still able to start, but it kept losing the auto down memory for the driver's window (like every other day). When I went to remove the battery, there was battery acid everywhere, battery tray, under the battery tie down and so on. I'm going to add the image with the ground locations, if they are loose or corroded, that could cause issues, you can see them once you know where to look

As for the first mechanic, If the guy is a friend I may give him a second shot, possibly have him test the battery, or DIY, it with a new one, then maybe get a crank position sensor(I'm going to check the FSM) or test it, you may need him to pull it. Unless you really are already "on the hook" with the 25yr Honda Mechanic, I might put that on hold. Also ask your friend if he would call the other mechanic or have you setup a three way call, sometimes guys that have done it for so long are willing to suggest other stuff to test or replace. If your on the call, you could even run our thoughts by him or both of them, (2 heads are better than 1)?

 

[62caster]

Well, I'm beyond confused now. My buddy is super confident it is not off time, the independent 25 year specialist said it was off time, and Honda said everything was completely fine, and any difference in the way he drives might just be related to how the motor mounts were put back on, or just because it was such a major service done. Honda said they could dive into it more, but I would be wasting my money. Maybe it is in my head.

 

[62caster]

Just to resolve this... brought it back to Honda and they reset the CKP and it's running great! Not sure what this did, but everything seems back to normal.

 

[62caster]

Well, I jinxed myself. Stalled out this morning with the same crankshaft code. Also started chirping/whining. I'm really considering taking it to Honda and having them redo the work. Found a dealer who will do everything for $750, which would mean my overall cost for the entire service would be $1,500. Awful, but I can stomach it if it means the work is done right.

Opinions?

Note to self: it's not worth saving a couple hundred bucks.