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Looks good Swish
The install also tells me I need to run my wires for a set of rear lights at the same time.
anyone thought about adding a power outlet in the bed?

I'm going to order the bed cover also.
Should I install the lock before the cover?
 

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Hmmm... Running the signal from the cab to the gate seems very involved... Since the trunk locks and unlocks with the remote key and interior locks, can't you tap off of that, which should be much closer and require less effort to install... Just a thought.

Thank you for posting the instructions for the manual version. Very helpful.

I am very interested in your cover(s) also. Are you intending to put out a set of instructions for those also? Easy to remove is a key for me... (Where are you getting the electrical for the "H"?)

Also, any hints as to the new products? Dash plate, dress bars?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Aloha said:
Hmmm... Running the signal from the cab to the gate seems very involved... Since the trunk locks and unlocks with the remote key and interior locks, can't you tap off of that, which should be much closer and require less effort to install... Just a thought.

1.Yes that is how its connected.

I am very interested in your cover(s) also. Are you intending to put out a set of instructions for those also? Easy to remove is a key for me... (Where are you getting the electrical for the "H"?)

2.Yes ASAP

Also, any hints as to the new products? Dash plate, dress bars?
3.Coming Soon
 

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That looks like a nice setup, but, I am confused. Why would you want to lock your tailgate?
 

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I have the Access cover which locks from below. When I travel and have items of value that don't fit in the trunk or cab I have them in the truck bed. When I stop to eat it is nice knowing the tailgate is locked. Yes, someone can cut through the top to get to the bed--however this keeps out the overly curious. I have ordered but not yet received the manual lock--I will let everyone know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hello good folks at BasicKoncepts!

I just wanted to let you know that I've installed your electric tailgate lock today and that I'm very happy with your product! The installation took a long time since I was doing it myself plus I had to remove/install an access cover. Your instructions were good but I noticed a couple of errors/omissions that you should consider adding to your pdf file:
Page-5: There are 7 bolts vice 4 that need to be removed (4 shown in your photo but 3 more are just under the tailgate trim with the 18 clips).
Page-15: You need to remove the seatbelt bolt before you can remove the center pillar cover.
Page-16: You need to remove the seatbelt bolt before you can remove the rear pillar cover.


Again, thanks and keep up the good work!

Regards,
(SixOpRidge)

Errors on pages are fixed. (Thank You :) )
 

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Re: Ridgeline Tailgate Lock Instruction (my results)

I installed my BasicKoncepts electric tailgate lock today. It went fairly well, with a few issues. I would have to suggest that these issues be addressed before recommending this product or its installation to anyone.

First, the sheet metal used for the mounting bracket is way too thin in my opinion. After examining how the lock works, I believe that the sheet metal should be replaced with some 1/16" steel in order to be strong enough to hold up. Just during the course of testing the installation I could see some bending in the lock mechanism, specifically the lock arm. Unfortunately, that bending was in a direction that would eventually cause the lock to fail -- in a 'tailgate stuck closed' state.

[NOTE: Second comment removed, as the instructions were initially misread.]

Third, because of the thin sheet metal used, the whole mechanism, but mostly the lock arm itself moved quite a bit. So much so that when the tailgate was closed it was not able to move to the unlock position; it got caught on the release mechanism and prevented the tailgate from being opened at all. It would work fine when the tailgate was dropped down, but as soon as it was closed the lock arm moved out of position far enough that it could not be unlocked. Fortunately I tested this before I put the tailgate back together, otherwise I would have had a real mess on my hands, not being able to open the tailgate at all. I was able to solve this problem with a couple extra screws in the bracket, to properly hold it in its required position. I would not recommend installing the electric tailgate lock to anyone without doing this! The two factory bolts are just not enough to hold the bracket in its proper position, especially with the thin sheet metal used.

Fourth, the recommended location for running the wires from the tailgate to the truck is not ideal. In the recommended position, the cable moves and bends an awful lot when the tailgate is opened, especially in swing mode. It may or may not eventually cause wire breakage, but I am not really comfortable with the amount of wire slack required inside the tailgate for this system to work properly, or the resulting rubbing of the tailgate against the wire. If you install the wires in the recommended position, I would check them periodically to make sure the outer sheath is not wearing away. Honda routed the wires for their reverse camera on the other side of the hinge for a reason... they won't move and bend as much there. The wires for the electric tailgate lock should be routed on the outside of the hinge as well.

Fifth, the rivet holding the lock arm to the mounting bracket is not my idea of a reliable connection. Rivets aren't designed for connections where movement is expected. At some point this is probably going to give way. Fortunately, if there is a failure here the tailgate can still be opened.

Sixth, the installation instructions are mediocre at best. They quite often refer to parts of the truck or the kit without giving pictures as to what they are talking about. The pictures are too small as well. The instructions are at times difficult to follow as a result.

One item in particular is the way they recommend removing the trim at the top of the tailgate -- it just plain the wrong way to do it. (This trim is actually very easy to remove and replace if done properly. With people mentioning broken clips I can tell it is not being done right. The proper way to remove the top trim is to remove the four screws, then hit the trimpiece with a rubber mallet so it slides to the right, and it pops right off without even risking breaking any clips. Takes maybe two minutes tops if you go slowly.)

Also, while talking about the instructions, it is not actually necessary to remove the front wall (the instructions call it the back wall) to install the wires. Save yourself some time and just leave this panel in place.

Seventh, in most cases, if the lock system fails in a locked state, the tailgate cannot be opened. A release cable or something similar should be provided, just in case. Or a different design with 'fail safe' operation. I would highly recommend getting the manual lock option just in case.

Eighth, the current design works by blocking the movement of certain parts of the release mechanism. This can put a lot of strain on parts of the truck that were not designed for it, such as the two tailgate release handles. They don't seem to be made to withstand pressure someone might put on them if their movement is being restricted -- they are just made of plastic. If someone were to pull on the handle(s) hard enough, they could break. (This is mentioned in the instructions, thankfully.) A better design would have used the existing disabling features of the tailgate release mechanism (allowing handle movement, but preventing it from opening the tailgate) instead of attempting to prevent handle movement in the first place.

Overall, the design of the lock seems to be alright, but the build quality seems questionable. I hope that our friends at BasicKoncepts can address these issues and provide us with an updated and better product before long. As of right now, I am still left wondering about the long-term durability and security of the current product. If you purchase and install this product, at a very minimum, make sure to install a couple extra screws to hold the bracket in its proper position, taking care that these screws are not installed somewhere they would interfere with movement of any part of the mechanism.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Re: Ridgeline Tailgate Lock Instruction (my results)

djdj said:
I installed my BasicKoncepts electric tailgate lock today. It went fairly well, with a few issues. I would have to suggest that these issues be addressed before recommending this product or its installation to anyone.

First, the sheet metal used for the mounting bracket is way too thin in my opinion. After examining how the lock works, I believe that the sheet metal should be replaced with some 1/16" steel in order to be strong enough to hold up. Just during the course of testing the installation I could see some bending in the lock mechanism, specifically the lock arm. Unfortunately, that bending was in a direction that would eventually cause the lock to fail -- in a 'tailgate stuck closed' state.

Second, the instructions indicate that you should not tighten down the mounting bolts too tight to prevent bending the bracket. (The bracket is bolted in place using factory bolts that hold the release mechanism in place.) Personally, I would really rather not have the tailgate release mechanism rattling around because it isn't tightened down properly. The proper solution here would be a bracket made of thicker steel, and small standoffs to space the bracket in the proper location instead of relying on loose bolts to hold it in place.

Third, because of the thin sheet metal used, the whole mechanism, but mostly the lock arm itself moved quite a bit. So much so that when the tailgate was closed it was not able to move to the unlock position; it got caught on the release mechanism and prevented the tailgate from being opened at all. It would work fine when the tailgate was dropped down, but as soon as it was closed the lock arm moved out of position far enough that it could not be unlocked. Fortunately I tested this before I put the tailgate back together, otherwise I would have had a real mess on my hands, not being able to open the tailgate at all. I was able to solve this problem with a couple extra screws in the bracket, to properly hold it in its required position. I would not recommend installing the electric tailgate lock to anyone without doing this! The two factory bolts are just not enough to hold the bracket in its proper position, especially if you are not supposed to tighten them down.

Fourth, the recommended location for running the wires from the tailgate to the truck is not ideal. In the recommended position, the cable moves and bends an awful lot when the tailgate is opened, especially in swing mode. It may or may not eventually cause wire breakage, but I am not really comfortable with the amount of wire slack required inside the tailgate for this system to work properly, or the resulting rubbing of the tailgate against the wire. If you install the wires in the recommended position, I would check them periodically to make sure the outer sheath is not wearing away. Honda routed the wires for their reverse camera on the other side of the hinge for a reason... they won't move and bend as much there. The wires for the electric tailgate lock should be routed on the outside of the hinge as well.

Fifth, the rivet holding the lock arm to the mounting bracket is not my idea of a reliable connection. Rivets aren't designed for connections where movement is expected. At some point this is probably going to give way. Fortunately, if there is a failure here the tailgate can still be opened.

Sixth, the installation instructions are mediocre at best. They quite often refer to parts of the truck or the kit without giving pictures as to what they are talking about. The pictures are too small as well. The instructions are at times difficult to follow as a result.

One item in particular is the way they recommend removing the trim at the top of the tailgate -- it just plain the wrong way to do it. (This trim is actually very easy to remove and replace if done properly. With people mentioning broken clips I can tell it is not being done right. The proper way to remove the top trim is to remove the four screws, then hit the trimpiece with a rubber mallet so it slides to the right, and it pops right off without even risking breaking any clips. Takes maybe two minutes tops if you go slowly.)

Also, while talking about the instructions, it is not actually necessary to remove the front wall (the instructions call it the back wall) to install the wires. Save yourself some time and just leave this panel in place.

Seventh, in most cases, if the lock system fails in a locked state, the tailgate cannot be opened. A release cable or something similar should be provided, just in case. Or a different design with 'fail safe' operation. I would highly recommend getting the manual lock option just in case.

Eighth, the current design works by blocking the movement of certain parts of the release mechanism. This can put a lot of strain on parts of the truck that were not designed for it, such as the two tailgate release handles. They don't seem to be made to withstand pressure someone might put on them if their movement is being restricted -- they are just made of plastic. If someone were to pull on the handle(s) hard enough, I they could break. A better design would have used the existing disabling features of the tailgate release mechanism (allowing handle movement, but preventing it from opening the tailgate) instead of attempting to prevent handle movement in the first place.

Overall, the design of the lock seems to be alright, but the build quality seems questionable. I hope that our friends at BasicKoncepts can address these issues and provide us with an updated and better product before long. As of right now, I am still left wondering about the long-term durability and security of the current product. If you purchase and install this product, at a very minimum, make sure to install a couple extra screws to hold the bracket in its proper position, taking care that these screws are not installed somewhere they would interfere with movement of any part of the mechanism.

What !:confused: No one ever said to not tighteen the bolts back like they came. :confused:
we need comments but be realistic. NO SCREWS!! OK we'll check things out. Thank You
 

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Re: Ridgeline Tailgate Lock Instruction (my results)

swishman said:
What !:confused: No one ever said to not tighteen the bolts back like they came. CAN YOU READ. :confused: And the 26GA sheet metal is for clearing hondas lock, more than strong enough. :eek: If your not and engineer dont try to be one. we need comments but be realistic. NO SCREWS!!
Lack of professionalism is why I cancelled my cover order with basickoncepts and ordered from Retrax instead. Par for the course.
 

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Re: Ridgeline Tailgate Lock Instruction (my results)

swishman said:
What !:confused: No one ever said to not tighteen the bolts back like they came. :confused:
My apologies. I misread step 6. Tightening the bolts down did move the unit out of its proper position and bent it slightly, though.

Could I suggest changing the instructions for tightening the bolts to include steps to temporarily remove the actuator from the bracket? Doing this made tightening the bolts a LOT easier.

But I do stand by my statement that screws are needed. The unit moved around way too much without them; the two bolts are not enough to hold this thin metal in position. Like I mentioned, without the screws, my tailgate would have been stuck in a locked position if I hadn't spent a good half hour testing.

I am not trying to be overly critical. I'm glad I ordered my unit. But there are a few things that bothered me about it, and I felt that anyone considering buying one should be aware of them.
 

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Re: Ridgeline Tailgate Lock Instruction (my results)

swishman said:
What ! No one ever said to not tighteen the bolts back like they came. CAN YOU READ. And the 26GA sheet metal is for clearing hondas lock, more than strong enough. If your not and engineer dont try to be one. we need comments but be realistic. NO SCREWS!!

Wow... if Retrax does sell the locks, I think I'll order from them.

Not a good way to gain customers Swishman. I can only imagine what any warrantly claims would be like.
 

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Aloha said:
Hmmm... Running the signal from the cab to the gate seems very involved... Since the trunk locks and unlocks with the remote key and interior locks, can't you tap off of that, which should be much closer and require less effort to install... Just a thought.
The trunk 'lock' is actually accomplished in a different way. The handle on the trunk doesn't actually unlock the trunk; it is just an electronic button that sends a signal to the vehicle's computer that you are trying to open the trunk. If, at that point, the drivers door is currently unlocked, the computer then sends a signal back to the trunk that opens it. (This is how you can lock the trunk from the switch in the glovebox; it interrupts the 'open the trunk' signal.) Because of this design, there are no lock/unlock wires anywhere near the tailgate. The location selected by BasicKoncepts is the closest providing the necessary signals.
 
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