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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I have a 2007 ridgeline and I am buying a 2011 YAMAHA ar210. My Questions are:
1. Do I need mirror extentions when towing the boat since it si 8'6" wide?
2. Will I be able to tow the boat up a hill or boat ramp with it being at around 4,250 pounds including the trailer and half a tank of gas?
Any other info boaut toeing would be great, thank in advance.
 

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1 is personal preference. 2 it will be fine, the only thing you should notice is it hunting gears a bit on highways with hills. Boats tow easy compared to less aero dynamic loads. Just got back from towing a boat for 3 hours, it did fine.
 

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Hello I have a 2007 ridgeline and I am buying a 2011 YAMAHA ar210.
Howdy. I two a wakeboarding boat that, with trailer, fuel and minimal gear is right at 5000 lbs. The Ridgeline can do this job well.
My Questions are:
1. Do I need mirror extentions when towing the boat since it si 8'6" wide?
My boat is 8'2" and the trailer with its somewhat vision-blocking guidepoles is 9'6". Vision is just adequate for me and I'd invest in mirrors if I could find some that are sure to work well and be easy to attach/detach.
2. Will I be able to tow the boat up a hill or boat ramp with it being at around 4,250 pounds including the trailer and half a tank of gas?
Yes, no problem. I recommend putting it into 1st gear and enabling VTM-4 Lock. Without this easy step, VTM-4 system might let the FWD briefly slip before deciding to apply RWD.

If the tires that are on it are more "street" (less aggressive tread) than the original Michelin LTX, you might find yourself slipping on non-optimal surfaces.
Any other info boaut toeing would be great, thank in advance.
Use Octane 91 fuel for significantly better performance and fuel efficiency when under this load.

Is the trailer a single axle or double axle. I highly recommend a double axle for this application and weight.
 

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Yes, no problem. I recommend putting it into 1st gear and enabling VTM-4 Lock. Without this easy step, VTM-4 system might let the FWD briefly slip before deciding to apply RWD.
Do you find this necessary? Starting from a stop as when pulling up a ramp, I'd think the initial rearward torque bias would take care of this. I've used VTM-4 to proactively prevent front slip, but only while already moving (5-10mph sand dunes).

KeS
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The boat comes with a dual axle trailer with a single disk brake. Thanks for all the advise on the trailering with my truck. I have towed two old Yamaha jet skis behind the truck but they weren't heavy and didn't block any vision. I think I am going to invest in some $20 or less mirrors and see how they work.
 

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The boat comes with a dual axle trailer with a single disk brake. Thanks for all the advise on the trailering with my truck. I have towed two old Yamaha jet skis behind the truck but they weren't heavy and didn't block any vision. I think I am going to invest in some $20 or less mirrors and see how they work.
I'd get the rig first. It's a lot easier to figure out what you need once you've seen it hooked up.

KeS
 

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Do you find this necessary? Starting from a stop as when pulling up a ramp, I'd think the initial rearward torque bias would take care of this. I've used VTM-4 to proactively prevent front slip, but only while already moving (5-10mph sand dunes).

KeS
The proactive RWD engagement only happens if you try to accelerate hard enough. Under a light start (such as at the boat ramp), it may only try FWD initially, slip, then engage RWD. It's an optimistic start. The VTM-4 system doesn't know that you are trying to gently pull something heavy. Engaging VTM-4 Lock suppresses this.

I have tried it with and without the lock, and there can indeed be a moment of FWD slippage. I'd rather not have that at all. It's just like in the VTM-4 video that Gary Flint did. Now where is that link... I cannot find it. However, I can point to the critical passage in http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/Variable-Torque-Management-VTM-4-Explanation.html . It's where it says "Rear wheel torque rises smoothly from zero to the optimum setting in proportion to vehicle acceleration". At low acceleration, it is indeed zero to the rear axle.

Loading at the boat ramp is the only routine use case that I have found to use the VTM-4 Lock. The only other time has been to back out of a sinkhole, and I don't plan to make that a habit. :)
 

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I routinely tow a 21'6", 5000lb fiberglass bowrider sitting on a single axel trailier with surge brakes.
The Ridgeline does a fine job and I don't find that I need extended mirrors. In fact, the RL does a much better job as a tow vehicle than my previous one, a Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 5.2 V8.
Since the ramp at my lake house is mostly grass I use the VTM-4 and have never had an issue with slipping, no matter how wet the ramp is.
Since I don't usually tow much more the 10-15 miles (gas is way cheaper off the lake than on) I cannot speak to a difference in fuel milage towing vs not.
 

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The proactive RWD engagement only happens if you try to accelerate hard enough. Under a light start (such as at the boat ramp), it may only try FWD initially, slip, then engage RWD. It's an optimistic start. The VTM-4 system doesn't know that you are trying to gently pull something heavy. Engaging VTM-4 Lock suppresses this.

I have tried it with and without the lock, and there can indeed be a moment of FWD slippage. I'd rather not have that at all. It's just like in the VTM-4 video that Gary Flint did. Now where is that link... I cannot find it. However, I can point to the critical passage in http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/Variable-Torque-Management-VTM-4-Explanation.html . It's where it says "Rear wheel torque rises smoothly from zero to the optimum setting in proportion to vehicle acceleration". At low acceleration, it is indeed zero to the rear axle.

Loading at the boat ramp is the only routine use case that I have found to use the VTM-4 Lock. The only other time has been to back out of a sinkhole, and I don't plan to make that a habit. :)
That is a distinction that I had overlooked until now. I always thought that in acceleration mode, VTM-4 always uses 4wd drive when accelerating from a stop. But in point of fact, it may not use 4wd at all. It all depends on the amount of acceleration used. I assume that if you floor it, you'll have maximum 4wd. If you putter away from a stop, you'll have no 4wd.

However, we have no idea of the parameters where VTM-4 decides to direct power to the rear wheels or not. I would be interested in learning that information.

Thanks for bringing that tidbit to light. ;)
 

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I can vouch for the RL with your parameters...I tow a 2007 Glastron GXL205 on the matching EZ Loader trailer (single axle option with 15" wheels aka a beast of a single axle boat trailer). Total load is approx 4,500 lbs with gas on board. Our cottage is a 250 mile tow with moderate hills and a mix of highway and local roads.

No issue with visibility using the stock mirrors and the Glastron is 99" wide with the trailer being the full 102" width. Fortunately in NY we have 93 octane for premium, so for heavier towing I usually go for the 93 (net/net I get about 0.6 to 0.7 better mpg with 93 than 87 -the better mpg savings is wiped out by the higher cost of the premium but still a better driving experience).

I haul the Glastron out of some rough local launches (sometimes with the wheels buried in the bottom sand) on a slippery ramp and have no issues with pulls outs. VTM-4 locked and smooth application of throttle and no prob. I have the stock Michy LTXs (18's) with 30k miles on them and they offer plenty of traction.
 

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That is a distinction that I had overlooked until now. I always thought that in acceleration mode, VTM-4 always uses 4wd drive when accelerating from a stop. But in point of fact, it may not use 4wd at all. It all depends on the amount of acceleration used. I assume that if you floor it, you'll have maximum 4wd. If you putter away from a stop, you'll have no 4wd.

However, we have no idea of the parameters where VTM-4 decides to direct power to the rear wheels or not. I would be interested in learning that information.

Thanks for bringing that tidbit to light. ;)
It would be interesting to know for sure. I know a few times when getting home from the feed store and coming in the front gate, the front wheels would spin in the dirt/sand. This would be on a slight grade and 1100 lbs of feed in the bed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well yesterday we took the boat for a test drive, we asked the guy who is selling it to us if we could tow it out of the water. He said sure, so we did with absolutely no problem. The boat had half a tank of fuel and 3 people on board when we pulled it out. We also found out we don't need mirrors for towing the boat either. Will post a picture soon, I hope.
 

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The proactive RWD engagement only happens if you try to accelerate hard enough. Under a light start (such as at the boat ramp), it may only try FWD initially, slip, then engage RWD. It's an optimistic start. The VTM-4 system doesn't know that you are trying to gently pull something heavy. Engaging VTM-4 Lock suppresses this.

I have tried it with and without the lock, and there can indeed be a moment of FWD slippage. I'd rather not have that at all. It's just like in the VTM-4 video that Gary Flint did. Now where is that link... I cannot find it.
Found it. Actually, there are two relevant videos and I am not sure if that's Gary Flint in it. Anyway, MikeT provided the links in another thread:

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=666276&postcount=4
 

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to start off with, nice boat! I used to have a 20' pontoon with a 75hp 4s Merc and it towed it no problem, but I did need mirror extensions. Got them at Walmart for $20 a piece. Now I have a 16.5 Lowe and no need for the extensions. Boats tow great behind the Ridge, my Kawasaki Teryx4 on the other hand catches a lot of air and seems to drag a bit more. Still no problem though.
 
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