RL Won't Start Need Neutral

If I remember correctly there is a small cover inside the center console, near the top, forward toward the shifter that can be removed to unlock the transmission if it can't be started. I want to say you have to stick the metal key into the slot or something. Should be in your owners manual.

Thanks, that gives me something to look for now. So off to the CD and look at all 611 pages.
Thanks again,
Craig

Well the RL is all the way in the garage thanks to Skeive and page 570 of the CD that came with the RL.
Page 570 shows you how to release the shift knob when the engine won't start. The page 570 instructions are not for emergency towing, just for releasing the shift knob only.

Thanks again,
Craig

Calicajun21 said:

Well the RL is all the way in the garage thanks to Skeive and page 570 of the CD that came with the RL.
Page 570 shows you how to release the shift knob when the engine won't start. The page 570 instructions are not for emergency towing, just for releasing the shift knob only.

Thanks again,
Craig

Click to expand...

Ordinarily, you should just be able to turn the key to the second position and move the shift knob to N. The emergency release is for when the shifter is malfunctoning for some reason.

So you're saying the RL wouldn't start, AND the shifter was malfunctioning?

I would check the brake switch on the pedal assy. For both a non-start and shifter won't move problem. If the switch doesn't register the brake pedal is being depressed it won't either system work.

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Also I just noticed this is a G2. Take it to dealer. Should be still under warr.

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Found the problem, yea for me.

It was a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box under the dash inside the RL on the drivers side. This truck sure has a lot of fuses but I guess all cars do nowadays. Changed the bad fuse and the RL started up and ran like a champ.

What does surprise me is the fact that one fuse controlling only the back-up lights and cargo lights would stop the truck from running. Makes me wonder what would happen if one to the light bulbs controlled by that fuse were to burn out while driving? Would the truck come to a stop or just not start again after stopping? Well that something for me to look into when I get some extra time on my hands.

For now all is good and maybe I can get some sleep now, our RL is only 11 days old and I was worried a bit to say the least.

Thanks again for all the quick posts responding to my little problem.

Craig

Calicajun21 said:

Found the problem, yea for me.

It was a 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box under the dash inside the RL on the drivers side. This truck sure has a lot of fuses but I guess all cars do nowadays. Changed the bad fuse and the RL started up and ran like a champ.

What does surprise me is the fact that one fuse controlling only the back-up lights and cargo lights would stop the truck from running. Makes me wonder what would happen if one to the light bulbs controlled by that fuse were to burn out while driving? Would the truck come to a stop or just not start again after stopping? Well that something for me to look into when I get some extra time on my hands.

For now all is good and maybe I can get some sleep now, our RL is only 11 days old and I was worried a bit to say the least.

Thanks again for all the quick posts responding to my little problem.

Craig

Click to expand...

So did that fuse just randomly blow?

Calicajun21 said:

What does surprise me is the fact that one fuse controlling only the back-up lights and cargo lights would stop the truck from running. Makes me wonder what would happen if one to the light bulbs controlled by that fuse were to burn out while driving? Would the truck come to a stop or just not start again after stopping? Well that something for me to look into when I get some extra time on my hands.

Click to expand...

A burned out bulb will not blow a fuse and therefore would not inhibit starting the truck. If a wire to those bulbs became grounded because the insulation wore through and contacted a chassis ground, then the fuse would blow and you would have the no-start condition.

I strongly suggest you take your new truck to the dealer and have them look into the blown fuse condition to determine what caused it. Fuses do not randomly blow. There had to be an excessive current flow through that fuse to cause the filament inside to melt and interrupt the current flow to everything in that circuit.

If it happened once, it is likely to happen again.

Dont these have a recall with a shorting out harness in the back....

The short was my fault trying to find which wire was hot and which wire was ground. I'm still shocked that a blown fuse controlling back up and cargo lights stops the RL from starting.

A bulb burning out will not usually cause a short if the bulb filament burns out (breaks) on the inside of the glass enclosure. If the glass enclosure were to lose its seal (vacuum inside) then you would have a direct short and that could blow the fuse (not common, does happen).

To me the saddest part is that I use to own a car alarm company. We (I) use to install car alarms, CB and Ham radios, upgraded radios and other little goodies. Now I'm having trouble finding a hot wire .

Thanks again,
Craig

P.S.
We switch from a 2015 Ram 2500 Mega cab 4x4 short bed to the RL. The Ram had a little more room inside and out and could pull anything on the road. The RL is just so much more fun to drive, easier to park and cost less at the pumps. No regrets getting the RL at all.

njamesj said:

A burned out bulb will not blow a fuse and therefore would not inhibit starting the truck. If a wire to those bulbs became grounded because the insulation wore through and contacted a chassis ground, then the fuse would blow and you would have the no-start condition.

I strongly suggest you take your new truck to the dealer and have them look into the blown fuse condition to determine what caused it. Fuses do not randomly blow. There had to be an excessive current flow through that fuse to cause the filament inside to melt and interrupt the current flow to everything in that circuit.

If it happened once, it is likely to happen again.

Click to expand...

Yes, and this is why it is a bad idea to jump the fuse contacts with aluminum foil or a gum wrapper, or even a larger fuse. It's just asking for a vehicle fire, or even a complete electronics meltdown on these newer vehicles.

I think on some of the old cylindrical fuses, you could swap in a .22 shell casing to get you home. If you weren't very bright, you might even try a full .22 round. That may be one reason mfrs went to the blade style (actually, it was to save space, as they knew they'd soon be packing a lot more fuses into vehicles).