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Discussion Starter #1
my 06 has been the best vehicle I have EVER owned. Now 180,000 miles, bought new. Whenever I fill up the gas tank it will take only a few miles and the check engine light and vtm lights come on. After driving and turning engine off and on for maybe 100 miles the lights go off. The rough idle is a ??. Had the timing belt water pump deal done last year. If I let it idle for to long the lights come back on. I assume the lights are oxgyen sensors but not sure why she is idling so rough. Any thoughts guys? Thanks in advance for any opinions
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The vtm light doesn't stay on long enough to pull code. Check engine is oxygen senson. Just can't figure out about the rough idle. Plugs are tight.
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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Sounds like it might be fuel related. Maybe a clogged injector, fuel pump/filter or something like that? Are you feeling any change in the way the truck accelerates or cruises?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Truck runs just like the day I bought it. Just rough idle. I can give it a little throttle and everything is fine. If I let it sit and idle the vtm and check engine lights come on?? Every single time I fill up thoise lights come for awhile.
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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It's got to be the O2 sensor/sensors. Just sounds like one or more of them are gunked up and causing bad readings. I know Eric the Car Guy has done a bunch of videos on YouTube about rough idles on Hondas. One of those could be your issue. I'll be watching to see if you find the problem.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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There are many things that could cause the rough idle. Clogged injector? Sensor problem? Valves out of spec? I'm sure there are numerous other possibilities too.

Did you have the spark plugs changed when you did the tb/wp service?
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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If you haven't had the valves adjusted, that could well be the issue.

I'll be curious to learn what the actual culprit is, once you get it fixed.
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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If you haven't had the valves adjusted, that could well be the issue.

I'll be curious to learn what the actual culprit is, once you get it fixed.
I have been experiencing the same issue for years. I had the valves adjusted last summer and there was no change. The valve adjustment is certainly a very good thing to do (especially with higher mileage), but it likely won't fix this issue. The truck just has a vibration at idle while sitting at a stop sign/light, but goes away once I press the gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got gas today, both lights came ack on. Stopped at Or and had it tested. All cylinders miss firing and right bank running rich. Nothing about any oxygen sensors. Drove 10 miles and lights went out. Truck runs fine even with lights on. Going to chang PCV valve. ??????
 

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ALL cylinders misfiring?? There's got to be some sort of a sensor that isn't right. Could it possibly be your evaporative emissions system? When you fill up, do you top off the tank or round up to the nearest dollar after it initially shuts off? That is potentially harmful to the system and could cause some sort of fault in the electrical system. Other than that, your issue is extremely strange.
 

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Did this start after the T belt replacement? Could be a cam out by tooth. There are guides on each cam cover to help you confirm. Just do a quick search on timing adjustment.

What would be helpful is some history - when did rough idle start? What repairs (maintenance or accident) have been done? You need to verify that the parts installed (ex. plugs) are the correct part number. Lots of things you can eliminate quickly by answering these questions.

I'm not sure what the fuel fill has to do with it though... A leaking purge solenoid might have been an issue, but would have set an emissions code pretty much straight away. There are a few things on the emissions side that could cause this, but all of them would have set a code easily.
 

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Mine did the same thing. Up to date on everything. Happened for two months. I had all cylinders misfiring codes and vtm, abs and traction control on. Wheels spun but it drove like new. Reset codes three times and it went away. I figured a wheel sensor or something.
 

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Did this start after the T belt replacement? Could be a cam out by tooth. There are guides on each cam cover to help you confirm. Just do a quick search on timing adjustment.

What would be helpful is some history - when did rough idle start? What repairs (maintenance or accident) have been done? You need to verify that the parts installed (ex. plugs) are the correct part number. Lots of things you can eliminate quickly by answering these questions.

I'm not sure what the fuel fill has to do with it though... A leaking purge solenoid might have been an issue, but would have set an emissions code pretty much straight away. There are a few things on the emissions side that could cause this, but all of them would have set a code easily.
I'd think if the belt was off by a tooth that the truck would show signs of not running just right. I will obviously yield to your expertise, my friend. You're way more knowledgeable on the repair and diagnosis side than most on this site.

I suggested the fuel because the OP stated it happened directly after filling his tank. It's been discussed that "topping off" the tank can cause damage to the evap emmissions system and could cause a fault. I may be grasping at straws at this one because it's extremely strange. First one like it I've heard in many years on this forum.
 

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What happens if you keep your fuel level at 3/4 or lower? If you fill the tank until it is full and the problem only occurs until aprrox 100 miles are driven I would try skipping a full fill up to see if the problem goes away.
 

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It has nothing to do with how much gas. I put a new cap on but that did nothing. I also use 15 gallons a week on my commute so rarely fill up. It's something with a sensor.
 

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I'd think if the belt was off by a tooth that the truck would show signs of not running just right.
Thanks for the compliment Ian :act030:
I've run into the the 'timing out by a tooth' on several cars, and the results aren't always the same. A slightly rough idle, intermittent misfire codes, sometimes a hard start... it only takes a minute to set the crank on TDC and to pop the plugs out of the cam covers to check.

I totally agree that the 'filling it up sets the light' seems to be evap related and you are on the right track given the info. But evap codes are sensitive! To have anything fail on the emissions side and not set a code would be a rare one for sure. IF it is related to filling only, the most likely culprit is a bad purge solenoid/valve. As you fill the tank, vapours could be filling the intake side and causing a rich mixture on start up. This would set misfire and/or O2 sensor codes. But when the evap goes into self diag, the purge sol. should set a dtc of it's own.

So I'm not convinced the fill up is the only sign. There might be other factors that we haven't picked up on yet.

Just for giggles, if the OP is convinced this is fill up related, try unplugging the purge valve before filling. Does it change anything?

For my own curiosity (after you've check the timing marks and confirmed when all this started), how about mimicking a fuel stop but not adding fuel? Pull over, wait 3 minutes and then restart. If no change, same scenario, pull the fuel cap off, put is back on and try again... I'm not holding my breath it will act up, but might help with the diag.
 

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