Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 51 Posts

·
Registered
2020 RTL-E
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I would like to install turn signals in my mirrors. I would appreciate your opinions positive or negative on this idea. I have looked at the parts manuals for both a 2020 Ridgeline RTL-E and a 2020 Pilot Elite. The Pilot Elite does have turn signals in the mirrors. The parts comparison between the two appear identical with three exceptions. The Pilot has the turn signal lights , a different part number for the upper housing and a different part number for the wiring harness. I’m thinking about ordering the respective turn signal lights for each side and the respective upper housing for each side (the housings are painted to match the same color as the Ridgeline). I’m not going to order the harness because I don’t want to tie into the body control module which may not recognize the new lights or in some way damage the system. Instead I would run the positive wire from each side under the carpet to the module for the trailer wiring harness (which is located behind the rear seat). I would connect to the left and right turn signal wires at the module. This should not create any issues with the body control module. I would ground the negative at an already existing ground point under the dash.
Thank you in advance for your constructive feedback.
 

·
Registered
2019 RTL
Joined
·
77 Posts
I have done a ton of research and come to the exact conclusions as you have. I really want to try this as well but just haven't pulled the trigger. I saw exactly what you did. It looks like the physical parts, cap and light assemby should be all that's needed. It looked to be about $150 in parts. I believe that tying into the turn signals at the trailer box is the best option so well. I was planning on following this Thread by @jdpal , which I'm guessing you have already seen.

The worst part of this whole project to me is running the wire through the door. I have done this in the past to other cars. For speakers and adding power locks/windows, it's just never fun task. Luckily is should just be one single wire a door and I believe since its just an led it could be an extremely thin guage wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I would like to install turn signals in my mirrors. I would appreciate your opinions positive or negative on this idea. I have looked at the parts manuals for both a 2020 Ridgeline RTL-E and a 2020 Pilot Elite. The Pilot Elite does have turn signals in the mirrors. The parts comparison between the two appear identical with three exceptions. The Pilot has the turn signal lights , a different part number for the upper housing and a different part number for the wiring harness. I’m thinking about ordering the respective turn signal lights for each side and the respective upper housing for each side (the housings are painted to match the same color as the Ridgeline). I’m not going to order the harness because I don’t want to tie into the body control module which may not recognize the new lights or in some way damage the system. Instead I would run the positive wire from each side under the carpet to the module for the trailer wiring harness (which is located behind the rear seat). I would connect to the left and right turn signal wires at the module. This should not create any issues with the body control module. I would ground the negative at an already existing ground point under the dash.
Thank you in advance for your constructive feedback.
Another option is to use after market signal mirrors. They replace your factory mirror glass with signal mirror glass. You can check with Burtman Industries

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
Get the Honda Pilot’s Elite side mirrors, they have turn signal/motorized folding mirrors/heated mirrors.

My 17 Sport AWD did NOT come with heated mirrors. I bought the BE mirrors only (not the whole housing) ($56) and have bee lazy to install them because I have to fish the wires for the heating element thru the door grommet since they aren't pre-wired.

From my research, the heated element is plug and play IF your trim has heated mirrors already, you will have to fish the wiring for the turn signal and folding mirror part from the Pilot Mirrors.

At this point I might cut my looses and see if my local junk yard has any Pilot mirrors, since I will be needing to fish the heating element wire might as well do the LED turn signal and power folding mirrors but don't wait on me hahaha I've had the heated mirrors since January lol
 

·
Registered
2020 RTL-E
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have done a ton of research and come to the exact conclusions as you have. I really want to try this as well but just haven't pulled the trigger. I saw exactly what you did. It looks like the physical parts, cap and light assemby should be all that's needed. It looked to be about $150 in parts. I believe that tying into the turn signals at the trailer box is the best option so well. I was planning on following this Thread by @jdpal , which I'm guessing you have already seen.

The worst part of this whole project to me is running the wire through the door. I have done this in the past to other cars. For speakers and adding power locks/windows, it's just never fun task. Luckily is should just be one single wire a door and I believe since its just an led it could be an extremely thin guage wire.
I spent time today rechecking the parts diagrams for the Pilot Elite and the RTL-E. I could only find the three differences noted before. I then took apart the drivers side mirror apart and compared the parts to the diagram. Then I placed an order for the led light and upper housing for both sides. I should receive the parts in about two weeks. I’m going to start with the wiring from behind the rear seat and work my way forward so once the parts arrive I’m ready to complete at the mirror end. I’ll take photos as I go. The mirrors did not come apart like all the videos I watched on different Honda vehicles, but it wasn’t that difficult. The only terrifying moment was the amount of force I had to use to pop the mirror off the actuator. Wish me luck and if you have any helpful advice, please share it with me. 👍
 

·
Registered
2019 RTL
Joined
·
77 Posts
Eagerly looking forward to your next posts! What was your successful method for removing the glass from the actuator? I found the diagram below and tried it yesterday, hoping to see how to get the painted cap off. The actuator kept clicking into different spots and I felt like I was flexing the mirror holder a ton. I got nervous and stopped. My wife already thinks I'm nuts for everything else I've taken apart. Explaining why I had a broken mirror was not an enjoyable thought.

20200826_175122.jpg
 

·
Registered
2020 RTL-E
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Eagerly looking forward to your next posts! What was your successful method for removing the glass from the actuator? I found the diagram below and tried it yesterday, hoping to see how to get the painted cap off. The actuator kept clicking into different spots and I felt like I was flexing the mirror holder a ton. I got nervous and stopped. My wife already thinks I'm nuts for everything else I've taken apart. Explaining why I had a broken mirror was not an enjoyable thought.

View attachment 405053
LOL. this is exactly how I felt. My success was following the directions you have. I stuck my fingers in as far as I could then pulled way more than I felt comfortable doing. The mirror is backed by a plastic backing plate so I made sure I kept the pressure on the plastic and not the glass. I told my wife that if I broke the drivers mirror, then I would upgrade to the extended view mirror like she has on her Acura. I figured I was rolling the dice on $40 for the mirror. Once it pops loose and you see how it mounts it not so intimidating. Good news was putting it back on is a snap (pun intended)!! It did take a bit to figure out how to separate the upper housing from the assembly I ended taking out the actuator to see all the clips. I also did this with the mirror mounted on the truck, it may be easier to do this when the door panel is removed for running the wires to the new lights. If memory serves me right there were a total of eight screws inside the mirror assembly and four or five clips that you have to squeeze together to get it apart. All the clips were plastic and were parts of the housing, in other words if they break you’ll be buying new housing parts the clips are not a separate item. Also getting the part of the housing loose from the pivot area was tricky I wasn’t sure exactly what I did to get it loose but I really took my time so nothing got broken.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Well on a good note this possibly won’t work on rtl-t due to the lack of the traffic warning light and will save me money.
On a negative note I can’t have turn signal mirrors lol 🤷🏾‍♂️
 

·
Registered
2020 RTL-E
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thought I would provide you with an update. Still waiting on the mirror covers and lights, but I have completed the wiring to make them function. I decided not to go with the option mentioned by jdpal by removing the rear seat and accessing the turn signal wiring going to the trailer lights. Since I had previously made a jumper harness between the factory wiring and the front parking lights and there were positive wires for the turn signals in each harness. I decided to connect the wire for the mirror signals to that harness. The distance was approximately the same as behind the rear seat, but with a lot easier access. Start by removing the kick panel and under dash panel and small panel by the dash side next to the door. To remove the door panels remove the small plate located behind the door handle there are two Phillips head screws there. There is one more Phillips head screw located in a pocket about 2/3 the way from the bottom of the door. Using a plastic pry tool wedge it between the door panel and door frame and pop the fasteners loose. Once you have a few of them loose grab the panel and pull straight out and then carefully slide it up by the window. There are a couple of electrical connectors to disconnect and the door handle will pop out and you can let it hang from the door while you run the wires. I watched several you tube videos about upgrading speakers and running wires into the doors. I found the wire harness between the body and door has a lot of room for extra wires. Removing the rubber boot from the door side is very easy. Removing the other end of the boot from the body side is slightly more difficult. You can get the plug most of the way out with the door wide open, but then you need to slightly close the door to totally remove the plug. I used a long plastic wire tie to assist with fishing the wires through the boot so that I didn’t damage any wires. There are two connectors in each boot on the body side LH and RH. It takes a little effort to reach the release buttons on the connectors, but it is doable. There is a white sponge rubber protective grommet on the inside of the body behind the kick panels that easily pops out and gives access to the connector release buttons. Once I fished the the wires through the boot and into the door I zip tied the wires to the factory harness inside the door panel and followed it up to the harness going into the mirror. I found it is easier to disassemble the mirror while it is still attached to the door. Pop the mirror off and remove the wires to the heated mirror. Remove 4 T15 torx screws around the outside edge of the mirrors housing. Remove 3 T15 torx screws from the mirror actuator and two connectors that plug into the actuator. There are spring type fasteners that hold the mirror halves together. Once you have them released then pivot the mirror to free it from the pivot point. The last T15 torx screw secures the upper part of the mirror to the lower part of the mirror. At this point you should just have the mirror frame. The cover on the inside by the mirror mount has one tension fastener and one alignment knob. The cover can be easily popped off with a plastic pry tool. There are 3 10mm nuts and 1 10mm bolt that attach the mirror to the door. There is also a tension fastener on the outside of the mirror holding it to the door. Pop the mirror off and pull the connector through the square hole. You can now see the factory wires coming up through the mirror pivot. There is a sponge grommet in the housing to keep the wires centered. I used a 90 degree oring pick to gently fish out the sponge grommet. Now looking into the mirror pivot you can see the wiring coming in from the connector. I again used a plastic wire tie to fish the new light wires through the mirror. It helps to peel back the gasket material where the mirror mounts to the door to better visualize how the wire goes through there. I routed the wire beside the factory wiring and left about 12” of wire rolled up in the mirror head until I receive the light and top cap. I left about 16” of wire coiled at the bottom of the doors in case there is ever a need to get into the door wiring there will be plenty of extra wire to make a splice if required. I connected the ground wire for the mirror lights to the ground both that is just below the hood release on the inner kick panel. I reassembled all items and then reinstalled all the removed panels from the drivers inside area. I ran the positive wire through a plastic grommet that is located just above the rubber boot going from the body to the door. I used black plastic irrigation tubing to protect the wire from the door down inside the fender and connected to the jumper harness I had made for the parking light modification. The irrigation tubing was just the right size for 18 gauge wire to slide into and its OD was just small enough to slip between the plastic panel and the body just in front of the door hinge. The passenger side is very similar to the drivers side. I watched you tube videos about removing the glove box and the access was pretty similar. The only OH Shit moment I had was when trying to remove the RH mirror it shattered, so a new mirror is also included with the order for my other parts. Once the new parts are received I should only need to disassemble the mirrors and attach the wires to the new signal lights.
Overall this part of the installation has taken about 8-10 hours mostly because I wanted to make sure everything was going to fit as planned. If doing it again or using the description I have mentioned a capable person should be able to do this in 4-5 hours. Attached is a photo showing the wiring going from the body frame toward the front of the vehicle.
I’ll send a follow up with photos of the signal lights once it is completed. CDD0E263-C05D-48FF-9BCE-9A0530D27ED7.jpeg
 

·
Registered
2019 RTL
Joined
·
77 Posts
Nice work. Sounds like you got all the time consuming work out of the way. Good idea using the front signals as the source. So will you have to disassemble the mirrors one last time to get the factory painted covers off when the new parts arrive? That's kinda a bummer but usually things go much quicker after the first time learning curve.
 

·
Registered
2020 RTL-E
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Yes one more time. I can only hope the LH mirror comes off easy again. I’ve had it off twice already with no issues. I taped up the broken RH mirror and put it back on. I’m sure that one will be a breeze to get off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
No no no 👎🏾 thumbs down delete thread delete thread! Moderator where are you!! Lol 😂
This is not fun anymore I can’t keep this up. Y’all are going to make me go broke. I knew this was going to work and here we are. Zero complications except mirror removal. This is ridiculous 🤣😂🤣 thanks @Pairofkings for your efforts and making the truck slightly better as it should! Any thoughts of install for my Rtl-t doable or not?
 

·
Registered
2020 RTL-E
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
If the RTL-T has the small amber led light on the sides by the DRL, then yes. It would be easy to add parking light function if not already there and probably the turn signals in the mirrors. To make sure check the parts manuals for the RTL-T and the Pilot Elite to see if all the parts for the mirrors match except the lights and upper mirror cap. I was able to accomplish both upgrades and only had to tap into two wires on the factory harness. Provided you don’t break a mirror like I did you can have two very unique features for about $200. It’s also the perfect time to upgrade to leds for the front turn/parking light. Good luck with your project.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Well theoretically we are simply adding turn signal lights in that empty gap of the side mirrors right? So tapping into the turn signal lights shouldn’t be difficult. The parts u bought should work the same for mine
 

·
Registered
2020 RTL-E
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
SUCESS!!! Received the lights and upper mirror cap today along with a new RH mirror. Completed the wiring to the turn signal lights by using “red” butt connectors. The pins in the light are fairly small and recessed in the light assembly. I cut the plastic off one end of the butt connectors and crimped the end a little at a time until it would snuggly slide on. I then used heat shrink tubing to seal the butt connectors and then filled the cavity with hot glue to protect the terminals from corrosion. I had also replaced all bulbs with LED’s. Other than the RH mirror casualty it all went fairly well. The mirror housings have several plastic tension clips that hold parts of the mirror together, these can be a pain to get free. The only worrisome part is removing the mirrors. Good luck to those who want to make your truck unique. 👍
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
SUCESS!!! Received the lights and upper mirror cap today along with a new RH mirror. Completed the wiring to the turn signal lights by using “red” butt connectors. The pins in the light are fairly small and recessed in the light assembly. I cut the plastic off one end of the butt connectors and crimped the end a little at a time until it would snuggly slide on. I then used heat shrink tubing to seal the butt connectors and then filled the cavity with hot glue to protect the terminals from corrosion. I had also replaced all bulbs with LED’s. Other than the RH mirror casualty it all went fairly well. The mirror housings have several plastic tension clips that hold parts of the mirror together, these can be a pain to get free. The only worrisome part is removing the mirrors. Good luck to those who want to make your truck unique. 👍
Awesome job man thanks for the write up
 
1 - 20 of 51 Posts
Top