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Discussion Starter #1
First of all, big thanks to Silgen and RZRPilot for figuring a lot of this stuff out for us. There are others that provided missing pieces to this puzzle, but I can't remember them all, so I'll just say thanks to everyone that has posted about his subject. Anyway, I just finished upgrading my 2019 RTL head unit to the Sony AX7000. It's a little on the expensive side for a non-GPS unit, but it was the best fit for my needs and preferences. Here are a few notes on the install:

1. You don't need an additional steering wheel adapter for this unit even though Crutchfield says you do. All my steering wheel controls work perfectly, both radio and hands-free controls.
2. This unit is 100w x 4, so I not going to mess with an external amp unless I add a sub woofer. It sounds great right out of the box.
3. The user interface is very simple and OEM-ish. It really matches well with the existing interior lights and controls.
4. I used a SPDT three-position switch to maintain the three different views for my rear view camera.
5. This unit comes with two USB ports so I added an addition USB port in the lower part of the dash near the existing port.
6. I have attached the wiring diagram that I created for the install below in PDF format. The only thing I didn't include was the XM module. That is kind of self explanatory anyway.
7. The diagram is in 11x17 inch format, so it might be a challenge to use if your printer cant print that large.
 

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Great news, another G2 owner with an aftermarket hedunit setup.

Can you post a link of the SPDT three-position switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is the switch that I used. I got it from Amazon. Center lead goes to ground, lead one goes to bit 0 and lead two goes to bit 1. I mounted it in one of the blank switch plates to the left of the steering wheel.


397394
 

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Since you started this discussion, I thought it might be best to continue our discussion here, as it is more on topic.

1. I received my second 70-1729 Honda adapter plug today. Now I need to pull some wires from it. To avoid the risk of breaking any of them off, what is the best way to extract the wires? I thought grabbing the pin side with needle nose pliers and pushing through might work best to avoid pulling the wire off the pin if doing it from the wire side. I am hopefully going to have time tomorrow to solder and heat shrink all the connections together after work tomorrow preparing for a Saturday morning install.

EDIT: I found the large pins proved very difficult to pull (the two flat ones needed for the SW). I tried from the pin end, bent the first one into a mess but managed to straighten it up. The smaller pins pulled easily. Just had to bend the "hook" back out to grab when re-inserted into the other connector. Should be good here now on #1.

2. I contacted my Honda dealer regarding OEM 3 way switches that are a direct fit in the dash. The gentlemen I spoke with said he could get them, but at $35 a pop. Ouch! I think I will go with your solution for this after all.

3. I believe you mentioned in a thread somewhere that you installed the Sony microphone where the factory microphone was located. How big of a job was that? Care to do a play by play or point to one that may already exist? It would be nice to be able to use the built-in one, but seems that is really not possible as it appears to be phantom powered. Perhaps you used the in-place factory mic wiring?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
LexRidge, good call on moving this to a more appropriate thread . I'm surprised we did get yelled at for being off-topic in the other thread. lol.

1. As for de pinning the Metra connector, I ordered the following tool from Amazon:

Those pins are held in by a tiny sliver of metal that sticks out from the side of the pin itself. As the pin is pushed into the connector, that tiny spring loaded sliver of pops up and keeps the pin from backing out. The above tool is used to push that locking piece down so the pin can be removed without damage. This is plan "A".

Plan "B" is to take a pair of diagonal cutters and just cut the connector open and remove the pins. I have seen some people on YouTube do it this way. Do not, however, just pull the pins out. If you damage that little piece of metal that locks the pin in place, you will not be able to get it to lock into the new pin location. In that case you might be able to hot glue it in, so I guess that could be plan "C".

2. $35 FOR A SIMPLE SWITCH!!?? Good grief. I'll keep looking.

3. As for the mic, this was the procedure:

a. Remove the overhead console. If I remember correctly, you don't have to remove the whole thing, just the part with lights and homelink buttons etc. I think this part is black. I'd go outside and look, but it's farking cold out there. Anyway, you'll see what I'm talking about. I'm pretty sure this part is just held up there with clips so I think i used a trim removal tool to pop it out. Start with the front (windshield side) and pull down. I was a little surprised at how easily this came out.

b. After you drop down the console module, unplug the wires and remove the microphone from the module. Two screws hold the microphone cover in place. It's pretty easy to tell which one it is. It has a little grill over the bottom. After you remove the cover, the mic just pops out. I put mine in a anti-static bag and boxed it up with the old radio.

c. Hold on to the plastic cover for the factory mic, because this will be where the aftermarket mic will live. The cover has a hole in it just big enough to fit the aftermarket mic through. I used the stick-on mount for the aftermarket microphone that came with my radio to mount the new mic inside the old microphone cover. I used Tesa tape (love this stuff, see link below). to line the inside of the little plastic cover and to cover the gap around the the opening where the mic cord goes through. The idea was that this will cut down on echo and wind noise from being so close to the roof sheetmetal. Does this work, I have no idea, but it sounds like a good theory so I did it.

d. I then just tucked the wire up over the headliner and behind the A pillar trim then back to the radio. Reassemble and a voila, factory looking install with no ugly microphone sticking out where it shouldn't.
 

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@sil3ns I am close to having it all wired. I am stuck on how did you tie the video ground (Pin 19 Axxess conn) to ground? Since it is an RCA connector. Should this not automatically be grounded once plugged into the HU? Or was this actually illustrating this?

I do not have a CD player. Where else can I get my illumination signal from? What is the MX34016UF1?
 

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I got it installed today. It all mostly went very well. Looks great with the flat black dash kit! I lost one of the dash clips under the dash somewhere. That sucked! I do have a few issues however:

1. I did not connect the Parking Brake wire, as everything I read said it only prevents playing videos while driving. Well, I never plan on watching videos with this HU anyway, so I didn't bother. However, now it will not run Android Auto. It tells me I must be stopped with parking brake set in order to run it. That just seems very odd to me. Maybe I just do not have something configured correctly?

2. Steering wheel phone controls do not work, but the volume/track selection buttons do. I am at a loss here. I am not sure if the voice control button is even suppose to work without the stock head until. It also does nothing, which I kinda expected.

Anyway, if I can find some solutions, I will rip into it again next weekend and try to repair what is not working.

Oh, I did find the missing CD connector. I assumed since I didn't have a CD player the cable would not exist. But I was able to tap into the Illum signal from there as you described. Besides the above mentioned items, it's working very well, looks spectacular in the dash too! Woo hoo!!
 

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On your diagram does "(NEW PIN)" mean you added something that wasn't there?

First of all, big thanks to Silgen and RZRPilot for figuring a lot of this stuff out for us. There are others that provided missing pieces to this puzzle, but I can't remember them all, so I'll just say thanks to everyone that has posted about his subject. Anyway, I just finished upgrading my 2019 RTL head unit to the Sony AX7000. It's a little on the expensive side for a non-GPS unit, but it was the best fit for my needs and preferences. Here are a few notes on the install:

1. You don't need an additional steering wheel adapter for this unit even though Crutchfield says you do. All my steering wheel controls work perfectly, both radio and hands-free controls.
2. This unit is 100w x 4, so I not going to mess with an external amp unless I add a sub woofer. It sounds great right out of the box.
3. The user interface is very simple and OEM-ish. It really matches well with the existing interior lights and controls.
4. I used a SPDT three-position switch to maintain the three different views for my rear view camera.
5. This unit comes with two USB ports so I added an addition USB port in the lower part of the dash near the existing port.
6. I have attached the wiring diagram that I created for the install below in PDF format. The only thing I didn't include was the XM module. That is kind of self explanatory anyway.
7. The diagram is in 11x17 inch format, so it might be a challenge to use if your printer cant print that large.
 

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That is exactly what it means.
What I did was buy two wiring harnesses. Then carefully remove the extra pins you will need. If you just pull them with needle nose plyers, you will need to pull the locking burr back out with a small screw driver or pocket knife, otherwise they will not in place. You could also just put hot glue to hold them there too.
 

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What I did was buy two wiring harnesses. Then carefully remove the extra pins you will need. If you just pull them with needle nose plyers, you will need to pull the locking burr back out with a small screw driver or pocket knife, otherwise they will not in place. You could also just put hot glue to hold them there too.
Thank you. How do you like your deck? I like that Sony doesn't make it all flamboyant and flashy. I have no where in my area that sells it. All the places say Sony sucks... But this is the only deck that has swc and a decent sub Amp built in.
 

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Thank you. How do you like your deck? I like that Sony doesn't make it all flamboyant and flashy. I have no where in my area that sells it. All the places say Sony sucks... But this is the only deck that has swc and a decent sub Amp built in.
I love it! It is not really "flashy " or "flamboyant" for that matter. I posted some photos of it a few days ago: https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/radio-install-kenwood-dmx7706s.220434/#post-3094193
I don't know anything about Sony car stereos, but I have had a few of the home theater units and quite frankly they were not impressive. I would not ever buy another one. One was out of warranty (by less than a month) and they would not take it, so me, being an electronics engineer proceeded to do the repair myself. The circuit foil used on the main board was so thin that it literally pull up from the board, and I was even using a low temperature iron. That was some really cheap construction, but also that was several years ago to be fair. I have no idea if the Kenwood is better built or not, first time I have owned one. I am quite happy with it so far.
 
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I love it! It is not really "flashy " or "flamboyant" for that matter. I posted some photos of it a few days ago: https://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/threads/radio-install-kenwood-dmx7706s.220434/#post-3094193
I don't know anything about Sony car stereos, but I have had a few of the home theater units and quite frankly they were not impressive. I would not ever buy another one. One was out of warranty (by less than a month) and they would not take it, so me, being an electronics engineer proceeded to do the repair myself. The circuit foil used on the main board was so thin that it literally pull up from the board, and I was even using a low temperature iron. That was some really cheap construction, but also that was several years ago to be fair. I have no idea if the Kenwood is better built or not, first time I have owned one. I am quite happy with it so far.
I had a dvd HU in my Subaru and I liked it. I like that you don't have to mess with relays for the video and parking brake. You just ground the parking brake wire and your good to go. Not needing the ASWC and all the PITA that comes with it probably is the major decision maker. I only use Sony for personal/home audio. I feel the sound can't be beat by Bose/Beats crap that are way overpriced. But I know that they have been falling on hard times recently, and I haven't used full stereo systems, only soundbars of recent. Found out the Harley guys love these AX5000 units and the AX7000 units seem to have been designed with them in mind as the the physical buttons are water sealed.
 

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I got the stock subwoofer to work without an amp using this AX7000 headunit. I added a pin to the wiring harness so pin 1 (gnd) and pin 2 (Sub +) were connected to the left and right rear speaker wires of the headunit. I then wired the front and rear speakers to the front speaker leads. This method is diagrammed in the manual to allow subwoofer control from the headunit w/o an amplifier.
You then need to make sure the impedance on the unit is set to 2 ohms not 4, like manual says. (in order to change the subwoofer direct connect settings your source has to be "off" not just stopped)

The downside is that you have to have the volume pretty loud as its powering 4 speakers and a sub. But it gets more than loud enough. Being that the stock sub is small and cheap, its only really noticeable at higher volumes, but you would definitely feel it in your butt in the seat its under.

I am happy as I have fully functioning stock sub without having to buy and mess with an external amplifier. Also saves money and hassle as the included steering wheel wire harness works perfectly after you program the buttons.
 

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I know nothing about car audio, but I'm interested in replacing the stock touchscreen/Nav head unit in my recently acquired 2011 RTL/Nav. My research has brought me to strongly consider the Sony AX7000 referred to in the previous post, largely because of the extra power and the fact that it will power and control the existing OEM subwoofer, as well as all the other speakers, without the need for any extra extra amplifiers. I do have a few questions.

1. Is there any reason this unit would NOT be a good choice for a G1 2011 RTL w/Nav? Or can you suggest a different unit that I should consider? My main criteria are 1) 7" touchscreen, 2) Support for Apple CarPlay and 3) simplicity of install and lack of need for additional amplifiers. I"m also concerned with the glare resistance of the screen and the overall cost. I"m open to other brands, including Kenwood and Pioneer.
2. In the post above by j22abe, he states that the steering wheel harness that comes with the Sony AX7000 worked perfectly for his truck. I'm assuming his is a G2 RL, so I'm wondering if that included harness would also work for my 2011 G1. The two places I've talked to about installing this unit so far both want to sell me an additional steering wheel harness/interface. One of them specced the Maestro ADS-MSW, for $60.
3. Lastly, does anyone have an opinion about whether BestBuy would be a good (safe) choice for installation. My initial inquiry suggests about a $300 savings out the door using BestBuy versus a local car audio specialty shop. I know the specialty shop is good, as they installed a stereo in my dearly departed 2006 RL. But I have other things I could do with that $300 at the moment.

Thanks in advance for any advise you may have!
 

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I know nothing about car audio, but I'm interested in replacing the stock touchscreen/Nav head unit in my recently acquired 2011 RTL/Nav. My research has brought me to strongly consider the Sony AX7000 referred to in the previous post, largely because of the extra power and the fact that it will power and control the existing OEM subwoofer, as well as all the other speakers, without the need for any extra extra amplifiers. I do have a few questions.

1. Is there any reason this unit would NOT be a good choice for a G1 2011 RTL w/Nav? Or can you suggest a different unit that I should consider? My main criteria are 1) 7" touchscreen, 2) Support for Apple CarPlay and 3) simplicity of install and lack of need for additional amplifiers. I"m also concerned with the glare resistance of the screen and the overall cost. I"m open to other brands, including Kenwood and Pioneer.
2. In the post above by j22abe, he states that the steering wheel harness that comes with the Sony AX7000 worked perfectly for his truck. I'm assuming his is a G2 RL, so I'm wondering if that included harness would also work for my 2011 G1. The two places I've talked to about installing this unit so far both want to sell me an additional steering wheel harness/interface. One of them specced the Maestro ADS-MSW, for $60.
3. Lastly, does anyone have an opinion about whether BestBuy would be a good (safe) choice for installation. My initial inquiry suggests about a $300 savings out the door using BestBuy versus a local car audio specialty shop. I know the specialty shop is good, as they installed a stereo in my dearly departed 2006 RL. But I have other things I could do with that $300 at the moment.

Thanks in advance for any advise you may have!
I'm sure the included phono plug for the steering wheel controls would work for yours, you would just need to figure out the correct wires to connect too. I guess compare Sil3ns wiriing diagram to one of the G1 harnesses. But if you have the Nav unit, you might need the Maestro. The G2 Nav unit has a lot of different settings, i.e. walk away door lock and other car system stuff that are controlled through the H/U. If you replace it you will lose the ability to change these settings and I think that's where the iDatalink stuff comes in. I don't know I specifically got the Sport because it was "dumbed down" without Nav, leather, and Sun roof.

I think best buy depends on your shop. I installed my own because I know that any installer would not take the care I would when tiddying it up, and I did some other small modifications such as cutting out and replacing the USB port and adding extra wiring pins for the Subwoofer and three way reverse camera switch, and adding a 3 way switch into the dash for the camera.

The downside to the extra power is that it requires you to hook up the sub to the rear and the 4 speakers to the front, this greatly decreases the power supplied to the speakers i think. I have my volume at around 30 out of 50, to be loud but not blast the block loud. My old Sony unit in my old car had the same volume around 20/50. If you are really into blasting music I think you would likely begin to want an external amp anyway, but the AX7000 is even great for that as it has twice the preamp of comparable units from competitors. Also, from the looks of pictures on this forum the G1 stock sub is significantly weaker than the G2. It looks like a cheap 6" round speaker as opposed to a cheap 8" sub woofer that is in the G2. So while I can definitely notice the sub at higher volumes, I can't really at low volumes, and your's might be pretty underwhelming I feel, but I have never heard the G1 audio. The Sony H/Us also have another option that turns the rear door speakers into "subs" by a changing a setting on the headunit. I have not tried using this in this car or even the 8 year old H/U that was in my Subbie, but even back then they had this function.

I really don't mind, but there is absolutely zero flash to the Sony interface. It's simple, plain, and there's zero customization other than the 5 or 6 different colored wallpapers that come stock. So if you want something pretty then Kenwood or others would be the way to go.

Sony units don't need a parking brake bypass relay like an Alpine or Pioneer does. But with this Android Auto crap it doesn't matter because Android Auto/Carplay won't let you watch video at all, and the USB video support on the this unit is basically worthless. It's nothing like my old DVD H/U. In that respect USB music support is terrible as well, you can't browse like you would your iPod, and I just play the drive on random shuffle all. But, all the other brands are worse at this...All due to preventing distracted driving. ...I really honestly would prefer the 8 year old H/U that was in my old car.
 
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