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Well I have been doing a fairly extensive rustproofing job on my 2014 Ridge in hopes of slowing down rusting caused by central NY salt. Started by power washing underneath -inside frame rails-inside subframes , removed fender liners etc. Let all that dry for a day then used Eastwood internal frame coating on inside of subframes (comes with an excellent long flexible spray tube w/360 degree spray head which lets you get up into normally inaccessable areas) Also up into rocker panels and any other frame areas I could resonably access. I then used phosphuric acid on any areas on outside of subframes that had any noticeable rust (not much of that as truck is pretty new w/20k miles) After that I used Eastwood rust inhibitor (black) over those areas.Fender lips were cleaned -rust inhibitor and entire fender well sprayed with Rusfre which is a amber waxy coating similar to what professional applicators use. Inside of doors (lower half only) I brushed on rusfre.(if I could do over I would use the internal frame coat instead as the Rusfre smells for about 2 weeks). Also removed bed fiberglass sides and sprayed Rusfre in there -can get to a lot that way.Also noticed that the rubber seal at bottom of doors traps quite a lot of wet dirt behind it so it is worth cleaning behind that occasionally.At any rate I think It should hold up much better than my last truck(silverado) which rusted very rapidly.
 

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Sounds like you did a very methodical job. Would love to see photos of your work if you have any.
 

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I agree Glider, I was feeling possessed as I did it but our last 2 vehicles 2000 models silverado and subaru were both extensively rusted in less than 10 years even with lots of winter washing of undercarrage. In upstate ny they now frequently use a liquid spray which is even more corrosive than the old salt/sand mix so its only going to be worse. I also have worked on a friends Ridge 06 rtl and it had extensive rust after about 6-7 years. The lower radiator hose clamp had totally rusted through -I pulled it off with my hand! Radiator was about to fail due to corrosion of cooler line connections -so anyway I will attempt to slow down rusting. Also am going to experiment with a product called Salt-away -which is used by many highway depts on their plows -they claim it works very well to neutralize salt/rusting.
 

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Sounds like a lot of work, I had mine Auto Armored for $300.00 before it left the lot over ten years ago and no sign of any rust. A guys gotta do what he needs to do. Many say it dosent need it but I differ, if you live in a snow area now it only makes sence cause of the harsh chemicals they use on the road. I know cause I put them down and see the results after a few years. Good Luck on keepin it rust free for some time.:act035:
 

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I agree Glider, I was feeling possessed as I did it but our last 2 vehicles 2000 models silverado and subaru were both extensively rusted in less than 10 years even with lots of winter washing of undercarrage. In upstate ny they now frequently use a liquid spray which is even more corrosive than the old salt/sand mix so its only going to be worse. I also have worked on a friends Ridge 06 rtl and it had extensive rust after about 6-7 years. The lower radiator hose clamp had totally rusted through -I pulled it off with my hand! Radiator was about to fail due to corrosion of cooler line connections -so anyway I will attempt to slow down rusting. Also am going to experiment with a product called Salt-away -which is used by many highway depts on their plows -they claim it works very well to neutralize salt/rusting.
Hi everyone, I thought I would chime in on this thread. I have mentioned several of these in other rust related threads but will say them again as this one seems active right now. First off, I agree with everyone's points and have and will try just about anything to get rid of salt. Last year before winter I used a product called fluid film. They have a variety of application methods however I just ordered a few of the spray cans and sprayed wheel wells, under my running boards, various parts under the truck, and in any of the tiny holes I could find in the doors, etc. Here is a link to the product. http://www.fluid-film.com/

I also saw the above post about salt away. This is a new one to me, but I will definitely be trying it. Looks to me like this would be a good product to use in the early spring to hook up to your hose and really get rid of all the salt from the winter. If you can jack up the vehicle at all to spray underneath, that would probably be even better. Here is a good link I found for this product too. http://www.saltawayproducts.com/CarTruckPage.htm

The hardest part about doing anything is rust won't begin to show until later on in a vehicles life, so it is hard to tell if the product is working till years down the road. Many people simply just don't keep cars much past 5 years anymore. For those of you who do and are willing to spend a few extra bucks a year to try products like these, I feel rust is inevitable, but if I can delay it by even a few years, it is a won for me.
 

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I've never tried it, but the ol'timers around here swear by adding kerosene to the wash bucket.
Think they mentioned adding about 1oz.
They say it's oil based and gets in all the cracks & crevasses and stays adding a protective coating.
Now I know the car care product guys will flip out, but don't shoot the messenger.
Search & research, might even test on a old vehicle before going all out.
Food for thought.
 

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I'm not in an "at risk" area, but I have lived in them before, and I would think a most-important element of rust proofing would be to ensure all drain holes are open & clear for water to drain from those collection areas where rust frequently begins.

I know there have been various discussions in different threads discussing different drain holes here & there, but it occurs to me that it would be a great idea to create a STICKY thread that identifies all of those drain holes we have in our RLs that need to be kept clear for water to drain out!
Anybody have the info handy on that & feel like putting it up?.... and do our moderators (Speed?) think this might make a good STICKY under washing/waxing etc. ??

Just a thought.
 

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That's a good idea, but frozen water can't drain no matter how big the hole is.
 

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I like the idea of a sticky for the drain hole locations. I do agree frozen water cant drain, but it does get the chance when some of it thaws in the sunshine of those sunny winter days, which would be the days to check and see.

Although the sun trick does work better on darker vehicles...:)
 

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Another great rustproofing that our dealership has used for years is Corrosion Free. Similar to Rust check and Krown. Creeps well and gets where it needs to go and doesn't deform rubber seals and mouldings like other oil based products. Highly recommended. As a side note, rustproofing can only be effective if applied properly. Spraying a ton on visible areas and forgetting the places that really need it is all too common.
 
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