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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need advice on a system I am about to purchase, there are multiple variables so I will be as comprehensive in my description as possible. :act060:


Lets talk about Bass first because that seems to be everyones favorite topic:

I need to know if anyone has ever successfully installed a JL 12w6 underneath the rear seat?

I have done the math on whether or not this will work but it just seems too close to tell. Mounting depth (7.6 in) + MDF box wall allotment (.75 If I recess the sub into the box so I don't have to count the .75 twice) = 8.35' And it has been said that the total clearance underneath the rear seats is 9' . In my opinion I'm cutting it way too close, but I really would like to see if somebody made this work. My less favorable alternative is to just lift the 40% section and sacrifice that seat all-together. Or I could always drop two 10w6's back (but I WANT A 12' dammit!)

Now onto components and system configuration:

I should explain that I am purchasing a used system and it is a deal that I cannot pass up for the price (my sacrifice is trying to find a way to make this work in my Ridge.) I will list the components and please just let me know the best way you can think of configuring this:

Stock System Integration:
Audio Control LC6 -

COMPONENTS:
2 SETS of JL C5 6.5'
1 SET Diamond Audio HEX H600 6.5 (The seller is insistent that they're the clearest speakers he's ever heard & that I should use them and not resell them - but I just am not sure how)

SUB:
1 - JL 12w6
or (depending on space)
2 - JL 10w6

AMPS:
JL 300/4
JL HD900/5

Viper Remote Start which I'm still on the fence about installing because I really could care less about a viper system, but I'm open to input.

He currently has the 4 channel JL running the C5's and half the 900watt running the Diamond Hex's with the other half pushing the 12w6.

If I scrap/sell the diamonds how can I use the hd900/5?
If I keep the diamonds and sell one set of C5's How do I power the rear C5?
If I keep all the speakers where in the world do I put the additional set of components?

I'm lost please help!


Bonus Curveball Question:

Anybody ever use the iSimple iPod Adapter? and if so did you have any trouble installing/having it installed into a radio that has XM and NAV? (I have heard this can cause problems) and for that matter will it cause a problem with the rest of the system I have described above?

Any advice is greatly appreciated and once install is done I will post pics and let you know how everything turned out.
 

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I have a 900/5 with their Stealthbox and Evolution VR components (front) and C2 coaxial (rear). Works well.

I would bi-amp the 900/5 and use it to drive your fronts (150w x2) and your sub(s) (500w x1). Then bridge the 300/4 and drive your rears (150w x2). Make sure you use a large enough power cable (with fuse near the battery!) to drive both amps.

Pay very close attention to the JL Audio level-setting instructions. You will need a digital voltmeter and CDs with 50Hz and 1000Hz sine waves (no MP3 files - must be a genuine audio CD).

You will need to back off on your levels once they're set, as your C5's are only rated for 75w continuous. The Diamond Audios ought to be ok (the website says 150w nominal), but you'll have to back their levels down too, so you'll have a balanced system.

Note that these components are designed for sound-quality, not SPL. So you won't win any loudness contests with your friends.

Suggest you strip the interior and put a layer of Dynamat Extreme inside. Two layers on the doors, to knock down some of the road noise.

Chip H.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have a 900/5 with their Stealthbox and Evolution VR components (front) and C2 coaxial (rear). Works well.

I would bi-amp the 900/5 and use it to drive your fronts (150w x2) and your sub(s) (500w x1). Then bridge the 300/4 and drive your rears (150w x2). Make sure you use a large enough power cable (with fuse near the battery!) to drive both amps.

Pay very close attention to the JL Audio level-setting instructions. You will need a digital voltmeter and CDs with 50Hz and 1000Hz sine waves (no MP3 files - must be a genuine audio CD).

You will need to back off on your levels once they're set, as your C5's are only rated for 75w continuous. The Diamond Audios ought to be ok (the website says 150w nominal), but you'll have to back their levels down too, so you'll have a balanced system.

Note that these components are designed for sound-quality, not SPL. So you won't win any loudness contests with your friends.

Suggest you strip the interior and put a layer of Dynamat Extreme inside. Two layers on the doors, to knock down some of the road noise.

Chip H.
Thanks a lot for the input...
I think your suggesting a similar setup to what the guy is currently running. Diamonds and w6 on the 900/5 and the c5's on the 300/4 (Just scrapping one set of the C5's).

I am worried about running the 300/4 to a single set of C5's I feel like that might be a bit much for those speakers. I know a bit about systems but not enough to understand the hazards (If any) or pros and cons of running a 4 channel to two speakers, and 5 channel to 3. Do you think the C5's can handle that?
 

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No they can't. Which is why you need to follow the level-setting instructions so carefully.

What the JL Audio directions do is set the level coming out of the amp to the maximum it should ever be played. Since the amp, when bridged, is capable of 150w continuous and the C5s can only handle half that (also continuous), once you have the level set, you need to then back it down by roughly half so that you don't burn them out. Otherwise, one slip with the volume control, and .. poof!

Chip H.
 

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Just curious if you've ever had a JL W6 12" before. They're HUGE. They weigh about 25lbs a piece. You're going to need a VERY strong front baffle to handle the weight. Beyond that, they have a very large mounting depth, as you have stated. If you recess the sub, you'll still need to count the 3/4" twice. You'll have the front piece with the sub cutout and the mounting piece where the sub is attached behind the front piece (total of 1.5", but only 3/4" figures in to overall depth). Also don't forget the back piece that is another 3/4". Plus, it's a good rule of thumb to keep at least an inch from the back of the magnet to the back of the enclosure. Even an up-firing enclosure would be a minimum of 9.5 - 10", The W6 12, IIRC, requires about 1.25 cu/ft for a sealed enclosure not including the driver displacement. If you REALLY want the 12" in there, I don't think you're going to have any other choice than to have the back seat bottom up at all times. It simply won't fit under the seat. I had two of them a few years ago and sold them because they were just simply too powerful for the vehicle I had.
 

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Regardless of what you do with the sub, running your components full range is a bad idea. There really is no harm having lots of power as long as you don't risk over-excursion.

I would run the door speakers through a high pass filter - somewhere between 60 and 100 Hz. That not only protects the door speakers from low bass, it is likely to eliminate overlap between the door speakers and the sub. The effects of that are highly unpredictable due to phase and different distances to each driver.
 

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The 900/5 has a crossover built in, with either 18db or 24db slope. Since the door speakers will be 6.5", setting the crossover to 80Hz would be a good starting point.

Chip H.
 

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The 900/5 has a crossover built in, with either 18db or 24db slope. Since the door speakers will be 6.5", setting the crossover to 80Hz would be a good starting point.

Chip H.
I agree with your rec!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just curious if you've ever had a JL W6 12" before. They're HUGE. They weigh about 25lbs a piece. You're going to need a VERY strong front baffle to handle the weight. Beyond that, they have a very large mounting depth, as you have stated. If you recess the sub, you'll still need to count the 3/4" twice. You'll have the front piece with the sub cutout and the mounting piece where the sub is attached behind the front piece (total of 1.5", but only 3/4" figures in to overall depth). Also don't forget the back piece that is another 3/4". Plus, it's a good rule of thumb to keep at least an inch from the back of the magnet to the back of the enclosure. Even an up-firing enclosure would be a minimum of 9.5 - 10", The W6 12, IIRC, requires about 1.25 cu/ft for a sealed enclosure not including the driver displacement. If you REALLY want the 12" in there, I don't think you're going to have any other choice than to have the back seat bottom up at all times. It simply won't fit under the seat. I had two of them a few years ago and sold them because they were just simply too powerful for the vehicle I had.
I have been coming to the same conclusion, I had a feeling it was either going to kiss the bottom of the seat or blow right through it. To answer your question: I have owned a w6 before, and am definitely aware of size, but mathematically it's pretty damn close. I was hoping somebody had somehow made this work.

It seems this w6 is throwing a wrench into the mix. I may part out a portion of this to solve my whole dilemma:

New theory: Keep the c5's and the 300/4 running as one would expect. Sell the Diamonds and the W6. Then buying 2 13w5's

Could I run two 13tw5's from the 900/5HD?

Would I be losing anything by running the two subs from the 900/5?

I know this seems like a lot to go through but I am buying this whole system for less then the cost of the c5's and the 900/5. So I feel like everything else is just an awesome bonus.
 

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I don't think you can run two 13TW5's off the 900/5. While the power handling is there, the resistance is either wrong or borderline, depending on how you wire it up. A single 13TW5 would be fine.

The 900/5 is rated for 1.5 - 4.0 ohms on the subwoofer channel. The 13TW5 is 2.7 ohms. Running 2 of them in series would be 6 ohms, too high. Running 2 of them in parallel would be 1.35 ohms, borderline too low.

Chip H.
 

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One 13TW5 will be PLENTY to fill the cab of the RL with solid bass. Plus, you'll certainly be able to build a custom down-firing enclosure so it will fit under the rear seat. You're going to need to throw about 250-300 RMS watts at it for optimum performance. The W6 is an amazing woofer, but it's power hungry and absolutely massive - not good for trying to fit it in limited spaces. You will EASILY be able to sell the W6 for a good price either on Ebay or your local Craigslist. I sold a pair of two-year-old W6v2's a few years ago for $450 for the pair. That was a really low price because they were my payment for doing some work on my friend's car (i.e. - I got them basically for free) and I really didn't have any need for them. You should be able to sell one for $250 or $300 if it's in perfect shape. The 13WT5 looks to be a great sub, but it's exceptionally expensive. I think you would get pretty much the same sound results from a 12W3v3 for nearly half the price, and you'd likely be able to fit it in a down-firing enclosure, too. It would be tight, but the mounting depth is a full inch shorter than the W6.
 

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I don't see how you can make a downfiring box for a 13.5 inch woofer unless it sticks out from under the rear seat.
 

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^^^ I thought of that, too, but I think it's do-able. I'm not certain of the exact measurements under the rear seat. The 13.5" would be a VERY tight squeeze. It would certainly take some careful planning, but that's an even better reason to go with the 12". It has a better chance of fitting.
 

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I don't think you're gonna fit a 13tw5 under the seat. I bought one and tried to build a box to fit behind the rear seats- not gonna happen. I'm pretty sure I checked into a box for under the seat and it was too big.

You seem pretty set on a 12" or bigger but I have 2 JL 8W7's in a custom box under the entire back seat powered by a JL HD 750/1 and it is WAY more than needed. It also plays very low. Just throwing another idea at you...
 

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I have been coming to the same conclusion, I had a feeling it was either going to kiss the bottom of the seat or blow right through it. To answer your question: I have owned a w6 before, and am definitely aware of size, but mathematically it's pretty damn close. I was hoping somebody had somehow made this work.

It seems this w6 is throwing a wrench into the mix. I may part out a portion of this to solve my whole dilemma:

New theory: Keep the c5's and the 300/4 running as one would expect. Sell the Diamonds and the W6. Then buying 2 13w5's

Could I run two 13tw5's from the 900/5HD?

Would I be losing anything by running the two subs from the 900/5?

I know this seems like a lot to go through but I am buying this whole system for less then the cost of the c5's and the 900/5. So I feel like everything else is just an awesome bonus.
OK... If I were in your shoes, I would do this:

Run a set of C5's in the front and run just the mid/woofer of the other C5's in the rear. Install just the HD900/5 for the whole system. Sell the remaining gear and use the money to purchase your installation accessories and a SoundStream Stealth13BX. You'll have to relocate the regulator for the rear window and trim down the fresh air vent, but it is worth it. You'll get a 13.5 inch sub and more than enough bass to hang with the mids and highs. I do recommend sound deadening the rear bulkhead because you have to remove the factory sound barrier.

If you just gotta use both amps, consider using the Hex 6.5's up front and biamp the separates with 2 channels from the HD900/5 running the tweeters with the 300/4 bridged running the mids. That would leave 2 more channels on the HD900/5 to drive just the mids from one of the C5's for the rear. You'd still have enough equipment left to sell and then purchase a 13BX.

By using the 13BX, you leave the interior looking stock which will help protect against thieves and aid in use of the truck as intended. (i.e. you can carry stuff in the cab) Also if you plan on using both amps, you may want to consider upgrading your alternator as well. :)

Disclaimer: I like sound quality over quantity so the recommendations have this in mind...
 
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