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Purchased an inch/pound torque wrench. Setting for my 2006 Ridgeline spark plug cals for 13ft/lb torque pressure. That would convert to 156in/lb. Torque pressure. I've set Guage in wrench for 120, then I need to determine the number dial to forward to 156 in lb.
How do the dialed numbers equate to get from 120 to 156?
 

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Is this a 'clicker wrench' and setting an 'odd' value between the marked increments on the handle what you need to understand? If so, see this:


If your inch-pound wrench doesn't have scale increments above 120 on the handle, you are beyond its design range and settings interpolated above that value will likely be so far off as to be useless. A torque wrench is only valid within it's scale range (its calibrated range) at best. IMO.
 

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Does a pound or two really matter? (Curious)
In this case you're asking if plus or minus 8% to 15% out-of-spec really matters.

Who knows, or perhaps more important, Who wants to find out the hard way?

You're either a proponent of doing each job right, or you're not. YMMV, no worries as long as it's your vehicle, IMO.
 

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It wouldn’t be surprising in the least if a click-type torque wrench was off by 8-15% on its own, particularly near either end of the scale.
 

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Denso actually reccomends more like 18-20 for their plugs -a bit more than ngk (15?) Honda says 13 but due to the tendency for plugs to loosen especially on #5 -i think i would uze densos and torque to 18 or so
 

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Denso actually recommends more like 18-20 for their plugs -a bit more than NGK(15?) Honda says 13 but due to the tendency for plugs to loosen especially on #5 -i think i would use Denso's and torque to 18 or so
Well I wouldn't, I would be concerned of over torquing (which Honda Engineers would be more knowledgeable about there head metallurgy) than Denso or NGK. Especially using a inaccurate torque wrench to begin with.

YMMV
 

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I’d agree with Carsmak, particularly since Honda (wisely) specifies a bit of anti-seize on the threads.
 
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