[IanRTL]

If you don't have to use a shallow sub, then don't. I have a 10" shallow behind my rear seat in the factory location. It suits my needs as I very rarely listen to loud music anymore. It's certainly light years ahead of the poor factory sub, but it could certainly be better. I didn't want to lose the space under my rear seats, so I went with the shallow behind the seat. If you don't mind losing that space, there are dual sealed 10" enclosures on Ebay specifically made for the RL. Ported enclosures really need to be made with a specific sub in mind. Each sub has different characteristics and if the enclosure doesn't fit those specs, it will not sound right. A sealed enclosure is way more forgiving.

 

[IanRTL]

Can anyone reccomend me a good 1000-1200 watt mono block amp!!! I was looking at jl audio 1000..lots great reviews, but overpriced

Wattage isn't everything. You should be looking for a quality amp from a quality company - not shopping based on wattage specs. It sounds like you want quite a bit of power, so a great option would be the Alpine MRX-M110. It's a Class D with strong output that will run you about $400. Does that fit in your budget?

 

[IanRTL]

That is a great amp..But I'm looking for 2 speaker outputs on amp, not 1..That's how my powerbass amp is..I have my tens hooked up that way

You don't need two outputs. It's all in how you wire the subs. Are your subs single voice coil or dual voice coil? Is each coil rated at 2 ohms or 4 ohms? Depending on your sub setup, you can wire them together to achieve a specific ohm load. Otherwise, you'll be stuck with a 2 channel amp that wasn't really designed to drive subwoofers.

 

[IanRTL]

You don't need to spend $400 to get everything you need. The "AVH" line of Pioneer heads include powerful software and connection options in the under $300 range. For that price you can have:
Adjustable electronic sub crossover control
Individual speaker level control
iPod input and user interface control
Bluetooth phone connectivity
Front and rear camera inputs.
2V pre-amp out to drive the hell out of any amp.
Ample built in power to drive front and/or rear speakers.
A wide range of display options including customization home screen images and backlight color. Might sound silly but thats a pretty cool feature when you play around with it.

Choosing this kind of option would beat the living snot out of a new sub box in your existing system. Depending on where you purchase, an install and wiring kit can be had for free, making it an even greater value.

Personally, I have the AVH-3700 and even though I have nit-picks, I'm pleased with the sonic quality and software control.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_91063_Pioneer-AVH-X3700BHS.html

Completely and totally agree. I spent a shade under $400 on my Pioneer AVH-P4400BH about four years ago from Amazon. It's performed flawlessly for me and has every connectivity or tuning feature I could possibly need. The 2700 and 3700 models are simply a progression of the technology and are incredibly affordable. Just to prove a point, my component set up front, sub amp, 10' sub and enclosure cost me a TOTAL of about $170. $50 for the components, $45 for the amp, $45 for the sub and about $30 in materials to build the enclosure. It may be inexpensive equipment, but they're of a pretty good build quality with solid performance specs. My audio system is way more than adequate for my tastes even with that cheap equipment simply due to the fact that I have a quality, powerful head unit. Food for thought...

 

[IanRTL]

2.5 year old thread revival? Sort of?

 

[IanRTL]

Hey so you fit a 13 behind the seats? Can you please hit me up with some more details? Do you have any pictures? I can't see how it's possible, but i'd like to do that. Thank you!

Welcome to the forum. Being that this thread is quite old and lovestheh2o has not been active here since 2017, I very highly doubt you'll be receiving an answer. The Soundstream enclosure he was talking about is here: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...QP8zs924QqEmCf3RKJbacoCkaaVhK-TX8Zvl5--h5aZoA
However, it's been discontinued for several years now. I, too, have no idea how this thing was made to fit, but I'm sure it's possible. I built my own enclosure for a shallow 10" sub over a decade ago now and it's still going.

 

[IanRTL]

3/4" MDF. Sealed the joints and stuffed the box with Polyfil. Easy build. It's a little fiddly getting the box in place in the stock location, but worth it in the long run. Some have powered their stock sub with a small amplifier and have noted much improved output over the stock setup. The stock sub is powered by a 5th channel in the factory head unit. It has been said it only proves around 15-20 watts RMS to the sub. If you put a reasonable amount of power to the factory sub, it will yield better results. It does have its limitations, though.