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Also for anyone that may find a visual more helpful, this YouTube video does a decent job of demonstrating how vehicles have a sweet spot for ownership that leads to lowest amount spent on a depreciating asset in terms of not taking that year 1-3 rapid hit and on overall maintenance:

Used vs. New

Caveat: this is mostly a visual for used vs the brand new year model. Less attributable to a year end model depending on how good the discounts are. Also, the website he references uses MSRP, meant more just to see the graph, you would need to adjust for the going price in your location, at the time you are buying as that stuff is relative. Thanks siggy for pointing that out :).
 

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I’m working on scoring a new 2019 Sport AWD for around $28k flat, and I don’t qualify for any of the rebates. Maybe one of the finance gurus can walk me through this being a poor decision and I should go used? I oversee accounting and finance for a large distribution company... Dealers around me are wanting $26k for used 2WD Sports with 20k miles. That just seems like a stupid financial decision to go used. All the graphs people are looking at are based on MSRP. Very simply put, if you paid MSRP for ANY mass produced vehicle you’ve done it all wrong. So I’m getting a greater than 20% discount which is generally year one depreciation. This is pretty basic stuff folks.
 

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I’m working on scoring a new 2019 Sport AWD for around $28k flat, and I don’t qualify for any of the rebates. Maybe one of the finance gurus can walk me through this being a poor decision and I should go used? I oversee accounting and finance for a large distribution company... Dealers around me are wanting $26k for used 2WD Sports with 20k miles. That just seems like a stupid financial decision to go used. All the graphs people are looking at are based on MSRP. Very simply put, if you paid MSRP for ANY mass produced vehicle you’ve done it all wrong. So I’m getting a greater than 20% discount which is generally year one depreciation. This is pretty basic stuff folks.
That's a great deal! Year end stuff can be priced really low. I vote go for it.

Context is lost a bit w/ the back and forth from other posts, but it was stated that year end models can be fantastic times to buy and often when buying new makes the most sense ;-). No argument there.

Btw, nobody is basing savings on the msrp, that would be laughable. Back and forth was more in the context of 1-2 year old model vs a 2019 back in July 2019 for example (a bit was also looking at current RTL-E's). We hijacked the thread a bit lol.

Hope you get your deal!
 

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2007 Nimbus Grey Metallic RTL
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I will start this by saying that I haven't read every reply in this thread. However, my first inclination would be that the OP does NOT need to try to make one vehicle fit his woodworking hobby (need for a truck) and large amount of weekly mileage (truck is not the best choice). Hear me out:

Are you getting any insurance money from your totaled vehicle? If so, think about taking that and applying it towards the purchase of a 2014-17 Accord V6 sedan for your travels. My parents have a 2015 and it is a phenomenal vehicle. 280hp and they see 33-34mpg on the highway. It was literally built to eat up highway miles and it's very comfortable to drive - even for larger people like us (I'm just shy of 6'4"). It has many modern conveniences and it a good place to spend a lot of time. You can find a V6 sedan with under 60k miles for about $14-15k. Base model LX sedans with 4 cylinder engines can be had for about $11k if the leather and bigger engine aren't worth it to you.
Then, you can finance a pre-owned RL to maintain your woodworking and other aspects of your life that are nice to do with a truck. You could even look for a G1 if you want to spend even less than a used G2. You then put a lot less miles on the RL and it maintains its value much better while you're paying it off. If you use the truck for your 50k+ miles a year and it's your only vehicle AND you have a lien on it, you will most likely always be upside down on the loan to value.
The obvious downside to this is that you have two vehicles to maintain and insure. The good thing is that the Accord parts are very inexpensive and normal fluid changes are cheap. If you're putting all easy highway miles on it, you can stretch the oil changes out to 8000 miles and the transmission fluid changes to 50k miles or more. Likewise, if you're only putting 8-10k miles on the truck in a year, you have one oil change to worry about and other fluids every couple of years. If the Accord is your regular use vehicle on your insurance, and the RL is a "recreational" vehicle with low miles, the insurance won't be that much more expensive than having the RL only as your normal vehicle.

These are obviously all things you'd need to consider with your financial situation. It may or may not be possible, but it's just a suggestion. Hope you figure it out and it works for you!
 
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I’m working on scoring a new 2019 Sport AWD for around $28k flat, and I don’t qualify for any of the rebates. Dealers around me are wanting $26k for used 2WD Sports with 20k miles. That just seems like a stupid financial decision to go used. All the graphs people are looking at are based on MSRP. Very simply put, if you paid MSRP for ANY mass produced vehicle you’ve done it all wrong. So I’m getting a greater than 20% discount which is generally year one depreciation. This is pretty basic stuff folks.
You are absolutely right. It is basic stuff.
You can do some quick easy math and determine whether new vs. used is a better value.
It is often the case that buying new makes more sense, despite the claim that buying new is "dumb".
 

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Also for anyone that may find a visual more helpful, this YouTube video does a decent job of demonstrating how vehicles have a sweet spot for ownership that leads to lowest amount spent on a depreciating asset in terms of not taking that year 1-3 rapid hit and on overall maintenance:

Caveat: this is mostly a visual for used vs the brand new year model. Less attributable to a year end model depending on how good the discounts are. Also, the website he references uses MSRP, meant more just to see the graph, you would need to adjust for the going price in your location, at the time you are buying as that stuff is relative. Thanks siggy for pointing that out :).
The content of the video you posted is absolutely meaningless.
As I've said repeatedly in this thread, and siggy correctly points out, these calculations are based on the new car MSRP, which makes it completely irrelevant.
That caveat had to be added only after siggy points out the fatal flaw in this video.

1) You claim this video is helpful in showing the "sweet spot for ownership" to avoid "taking that year 1-3 rapid hit."
But that so-called "rapid hit" is largely non-existent when you subtract the $6000-$8500 discounts new Ridgeline buyers are getting.

2) Your statement that "this is mostly a visual" and "meant more just to see the graph" is also completely meaningless.
If you were to use the ACTUAL PRICES paid for the new Ridgeline models (instead of MSRP), then the line between new and 1-year-old would be nearly flat.

3) The graph is even more misleading/exaggerated because the featured website uses abnormally low used car prices.
For the Ridgeline, it show a 2-year-old price of $29,000, which is over $3000 less than you paid for your 2-year-old model!

4) It ignores the incredibly low manufacturer-supported financing rates.
Factor in the 0.9% new rate (a few hundred in interest), versus paying 3%-6% (a few thousand in interest) when buying used, and then see what the graph looks like.
 

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The % vehicle life thing you do makes no sense at all.
I don't care about made up % life left in the car.
I find this ironic.
You scoffed at my vehicle % life left calculation and though it was "made up" and "makes no sense at all."
Then you proceed to promote a Youtube video that features the EXACT SAME calculation...
401532
 

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Interesting, here in New England USED 2018, 2019 Ridgelines are ranging between $28 and $32,000 with average of 18,000 miles. Car.com, Cargurus, Autotrader. Dealers are not giving up left over dollars when used trucks are selling very well, and the tipping point is that they are difficult to even find. That said this may be a local phenomena. (zip 01540) .
In summary, you want it you gotta pay, and used beats new here for value.
 

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Yeah, really depends on where you are. Places vary quite a bit on 2020, left over 2019's, and used. Time of purchase also plays a big factor, such as buying in a world pandemic/recession vs a booming market.

Still find it mind blowing that I was somehow supposed to be able to get 8k off MSRP on a new 2019 rtle last July at 0.9% too. Bonkers I must have just been blind to that deal...oh wait, that didn't exist anywhere in the United States or Canada. But alas, I'm sure I'll just see more incompetence from not being able to understand the difference between buying almost a year ago vs now. Sigh...

Anyways, anyone with half a brain can use the concept from that video and run the math with their own research on depreciation and resale in their local area and make the best decision for them. Not hard to wrap your mind around one would think. Do what's right for you and your wallet, it's your money at the end of the day.
 

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1) As said more than 5 times now...and ignored every time: some of the blow out sales on 2019's are stellar good depending on where you live in the US or Canada. They may make more sense vs used depending on where you are located and your personal needs. Ok? Move on. This was never a point of contention in this entire thread.

2) When comparing used vs a new model year (like buying a 2017 or 2018 when the 2019's just hit the market), well that's all been said before. Do your own research factoring in TOTAL loan cost on each vs resale value when you anticipate it comes time to sell your vehicle. Factor in the depreciation from what you paid to what you get back over X number of years. Based on how much you value the depreciation with your personal used vs new deal is going to differ for each buyer...AND THAT IS OK.

3) Don't assume your lifestyle and vehicle ownership pattern matches that of everyone else and that you know more about somebody's finances than they do themselves...it's just rude and quite frankly childish

4) It's your money, do what you want with it and enjoy your vehicle that is NEW to you
 

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Yeah, really depends on where you are. Places vary quite a bit on 2020, left over 2019's, and used. Time of purchase also plays a big factor, such as buying in a world pandemic/recession vs a booming market.

Still find it mind blowing that I was somehow supposed to be able to get 8k off MSRP on a new 2019 rtle last July at 0.9% too. Bonkers I must have just been blind to that deal...oh wait, that didn't exist anywhere in the United States or Canada. But alas, I'm sure I'll just see more incompetence from not being able to understand the difference between buying almost a year ago vs now. Sigh...

Anyways, anyone with half a brain can use the concept from that video and run the math with their own research on depreciation and resale in their local area and make the best decision for them. Not hard to wrap your mind around one would think. Do what's right for you and your wallet, it's your money at the end of the day.
I've been seeing all kinds of people get 2020 RTL-E's for $36k - $37k on this board all day long. That's about $8k off from MSRP. May not get the .9%, but you'll still get a good rate. I bet if you hold out a couple of months they'll offer .9% on the 2020's. Maybe I just enjoy the hunt more than others.

To be frank, I'm a huge proponent on buying used sports cars, motorcycles, luxury cars, and other quickly depreciating assets. I've scored some great deals on 1-2 year old sports cars (up next will be a C8) with the original owner taking a bath. The Ridgeline holds its value very well, just like my Jeep Wrangler I purchased a few years ago. When you look at it, there are just some vehicles that are better to buy new than used. And people complaining about part of the country is just nonsense. First, I bet if you searched a 200 mile radius (which is more than a reasonable drive) you would find something. And as a last resort you can do a fly and buy. I've done this with several vehicles if the price is right and never had to drive more than 8 hours. Get an early morning flight for $100, get picked up from the airport, and drive home all in the same day - total cost $250. Sometimes my wife and I will make a weekend trip and she'll want to go shopping, dinner, etc. so that cuts down on my savings :)
 

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Ummm you know Nightshade I don't believe you missed out. Honda doesn't make or market enough Ridgelines to create a need, most of us are responding to deep research into midsize trucks before buying. I was impressed by the Toyota marketing schema at least until I drove one. Guess that makes us different from other buyers?
 

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Yeah, really depends on where you are. Places vary quite a bit on 2020, left over 2019's, and used. Time of purchase also plays a big factor, such as buying in a world pandemic/recession vs a booming market.

Still find it mind blowing that I was somehow supposed to be able to get 8k off MSRP on a new 2019 rtle last July at 0.9% too. Bonkers I must have just been blind to that deal...oh wait, that didn't exist anywhere in the United States or Canada. But alas, I'm sure I'll just see more incompetence from not being able to understand the difference between buying almost a year ago vs now. Sigh...

Anyways, anyone with half a brain can use the concept from that video and run the math with their own research on depreciation and resale in their local area and make the best decision for them. Not hard to wrap your mind around one would think. Do what's right for you and your wallet, it's your money at the end of the day.
Remember next you looking for a truck, tell the salesman that you are looking for the unicorn RL for 8-8.5k off you’ve reading about. I’m sure he’ll take you right to it via the yellow brick road at the end of the rainbow next to the pot of gold...
 

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Remember next you looking for a truck, tell the salesman that you are looking for the unicorn RL for 8-8.5k off you’ve reading about. I’m sure he’ll take you right to it via the yellow brick road at the end of the rainbow next to the pot of gold...
That's the beauty of sales, someone will! People were getting those deals all last year on 2019 RTL-E's when the economy was "booming". It just takes a little effort. All that matters is you're happy with your deal.
 

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Ummm you know Nightshade I don't believe you missed out. Honda doesn't make or market enough Ridgelines to create a need, most of us are responding to deep research into midsize trucks before buying. I was impressed by the Toyota marketing schema at least until I drove one. Guess that makes us different from other buyers?
I was actually looking at Tacoma's a lot until someone at work mentioned Honda made a truck. I had no idea and once I looked into it I was hooked! Super cool vehicle. Last July (you know, when the world wasn't in a recession from a Pandemic and the 2020 wasn't out) you couldn't find a 2019 RTL-E for under 38500 anywhere close to me, and I looked across State lines. And at that price w/ tax and interest rates at 3+% back then, the math just did not work out that the 2019 was a better deal than the one I found. And I am super happy w/ my Truck. Now if I was buying now and could get some of the deals I have seen on here, for sure I would have jumped on a new 2019. But I needed a new vehicle last summer, so that's life. Doesn't change the principles I have been stating (and still don't understand how they keep getting yelled out...they are very reasonable and rational shopping tips whether you choose new or used). Oh well, in general I think Ridgeline owners are more down to Earth people, this thread just might be the exception. Never encountered rudeness on this site like this before lol.
 

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That's the beauty of sales, someone will! People were getting those deals all last year on 2019 RTL-E's when the economy was "booming". It just takes a little effort. All that matters is you're happy with your deal.

Um no, nobody in the PNW area was getting a 2019 Ridgeline RTL-E in July 2019 for 34,000 prior to tax and title. That is complete bull.
 

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Remember next you looking for a truck, tell the salesman that you are looking for the unicorn RL for 8-8.5k off you’ve reading about. I’m sure he’ll take you right to it via the yellow brick road at the end of the rainbow next to the pot of gold...
Have you visited the Priced Paid forum?
You can see exactly what types of discounts people are getting.
There are lots and lots of posts noting discounts of $6,500 - $8,500.
 

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Have you visited the Priced Paid forum?
You can see exactly what types of discounts people are getting.
There are lots and lots of posts noting discounts of $6,500 - $8,500.
I’m sure there’s more than one unicorn ? out there, you have made a believer out of me...
 

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I’m sure there’s more than one unicorn ? out there, you have made a believer out of me...
I believe, hallelujah!!!



401536


I believe in the impossible! I ignore nada used guides and kbb on what my 2019 would be worth now vs my CPO 2017 compared to what I paid a year ago. Give me that unicorn, bring me to the light oh great Honda! Oh I believe!!!! I don't agree that a lower cost vehicle at a new rate accrues less in interest than a more expensive vehicle. I don't care that insurance is lower on my used vehicle, I believe oh holy H!! My sales tax at 10.5% is meaningless with a multi thousand dollar difference in purchase. Baptize me in the I-VTM4 oh unicorn!! I repent of my ways, I believe!!!
 
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