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I have a 2012 Honda Ridgeline and it has 64000 miles on it. It has never towed anything. It has been in storage for 6 months and when I started it up and ran it for awhile the check emission systems light came on. I took it to the Honda dealer to check it out and was told the charcoal cannister valve needed replacement for the tune of $400.00. I was also told that due to the age of the vehicle, I should have the timing belt system changed for the tune of $1100. Is it too soon to have the timing belt system changed? Thank you
 

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2009 Ridgeline RTL (with nav) in Bali Blue Pearl
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I've never read nor been told that the Ridgeline's timing belt had an expiration date. However, since these belts are typically made of rubber with high-tensile fibers, it is conceivable that they can deteriorate over time. If you don't think you will be pushing your engine very hard (no towing) and you will not be driving in high heat (over 110 F) or very cold (under -20 F) conditions, then maybe you can get away with not changing it until you reach 100,000 miles. Keep in mind that this is a guess for I don't know anything about timing belt deterioration due to simple exposure to the elements.
 

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I really doubt you need to change timing belt this soon- I have done several, all well over 100k - one on a mdx (same engine) that had 157k on orig belt and everything looked close to new-all pulleys still smooth-no visable cracks in belt. Also you might want to drive ridge for a while before comitting to cannister replacement as that is not likely either, probably just a emissions small leak (depending on code?) Might clear after a few tanks of fresh gas -never keep pumping after fuel hose clicks off! Some cars can have raw fuel get into cannister by doing that
 

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if you are uncomfortable about the timing belt, get it done and have peace of mind. It is painful to drive and feeling anxious because you think it will break. Yes, some trucks will run to ~150000 w/o change but others don't...
 

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I remember the requirements as 105K or 7 years which ever comes first. You should do it now - just the timing belt, tensioner and water pump. It's an interference engine. You don't get a second chance.

You don't have to have the dealer do it. Their pricing is about double what an independent garage would charge. This is an easy afternoon job for an experienced mechanic. The parts are readily available and not expensive. Estimated at approximately $450 will probably be closer to $600 bucks all in. Peace of mind - priceless.
 

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The 7-year expiration applied to Honda models from 15 years ago. Honda no longer publishes an expiration date for the timing belt.

Also, if you choose to have it replaced, make sure you are confident in the shop's abilities. I've seen a few reports on here over the years of engine failure after timing belt replacement due to poor workmanship.
 

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The 7-year expiration applied to Honda models from 15 years ago. Honda no longer publishes an expiration date for the timing belt.

Also, if you choose to have it replaced, make sure you are confident in the shop's abilities. I've seen a few reports on here over the years of engine failure after timing belt replacement due to poor workmanship.
Most of the failures I have seen on this forum have been on vehicles that had their timing belts already replaced.
 

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Most of the failures I have seen on this forum have been on vehicles that had their timing belts already replaced.
That does seem to be the case. I wouldn't use that to discourage timing belt replacement, but it would prompt me to do the job myself or make darn sure I was confident in the person who performed the job.
 

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That does seem to be the case. I wouldn't use that to discourage timing belt replacement, but it would prompt me to do the job myself or make darn sure I was confident in the person who performed the job.
Hah, that's the reason I would not have myself do the job, lol, but I see what you mean.
 

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2008 Ridgeline RTS in Billet Silver Metallic
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My 2010 Ridgeline is in the shop at 130k for a timing belt that came loose, and bent some valves, approximate cost is going to be 3K. Think I would have been ahead by changing , Just my experience.
I do believe this is the first instance I can recall of the OEM TB causing damage before being replaced. Anyone else recall another instance? (I'm not talking about the instances where the TB was replaced and THEN broke).

Also, what do you mean the TB came loose? That sounds like a hydraulic tensioner issue rather than a belt issue... although perhaps the same results.
 

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I remember the requirements as 105K or 7 years which ever comes first. You should do it now - just the timing belt, tensioner and water pump. It's an interference engine. You don't get a second chance.

You don't have to have the dealer do it. Their pricing is about double what an independent garage would charge. This is an easy afternoon job for an experienced mechanic. The parts are readily available and not expensive. Estimated at approximately $450 will probably be closer to $600 bucks all in. Peace of mind - priceless.
Not to derail this thread, but what should one expect regarding guarantee-ing repair work, between dealers and independent repair shops. I might have guessed that if for example there was a subseqent failure somewhere in the TB system that a dealer would (have to) stand behind their work, given they represent Honda?
 

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The most-correct answer to that will depend upon the law in the state or commonwealth where you live.

Consequential damages aren't necessarily required to be covered, even if there's a warranty on the thing (timing belt) itself or the labor to install it.
 

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Thanks @bulwnkl I should have inspected my dealer's recent service ticket before posting. My Honda dealer's small print reads:

Warranty Information: The parts checked 'Warranty' on the face side hereof are covered by a manufacturer's warranty, copies of which are available through selling dealer. There are not other warranties applicable to the parts or service furnished in this repair. The dealer is not a party to any such manufacture's warranty. The dealer hereby expressly disclaims all warranties, either express or Implied. Including any implied warranties of merchantability of fitness for a particular purpose, and neither assumes nor authorizes any other person to assume for it any liability In connection with the sale of these parts and/or service. Buyer shall not be entitled to recover from the selling dealer any consequential damages, damages to property, damages for loss of use, loss of time, loss of profits, or income, or any other incidental damages.
In other words, "parts only" really is the way I read this! o_O Not to mention that nothing used in a brake job or CV boot repair recently was even "checked Warranty"!?!?! Yikes.

There is some even finer print about our state's "Bureau of Consumer Protection" which I'll have to search on.
 

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I've found that some local shops carry the NAPA Autocare Warranty which apparently has varying timeframes but this shop claims 36 months. Then when I look deeper into it I find this:

Warranty repair costs shall in no case exceed the costs of the original related repair or service.

I will talk further with the shop about this but expect them to confirm it, in which case a trashed engine owing to a bad timing belt (or related parts) or bad installation would not be covered except to the value of the original service.
 

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Most of the failures I have seen on this forum have been on vehicles that had their timing belts already replaced.
I replaced my TB on my 07 RL at 98k miles for $190, borrowed special tool to loosen the drive shaft pulley bolt, I had a CD repair manual as a reference. The only down side was having to work from the passenger side wheel well. The kit I bought came with all the parts needed. Most critical is to properly position the cam shafts and drive shaft. Starting at the DS I engaged the belt to it and temporarily secured it with a zip lock, I then repeated this process at both cam shafts taking care to taking up any slack. The final steps was to engage the new idler pulley and tensioner and to remove the three zip locks. Be sure to use a torque wrench. You will need to use the special tool to torque the DS pulley bolt. Because this was my first TB replacement, it took me 2 hours. I might add that my training as a jet engine tech in the Air Force helped some, but if you can follow instructions go for it.
 

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The zip ties is a great idea! My R.L. has 88k miles amd I'm comfortable working on vehicles, I do my own oil changes, tires rotations and take on 80% of repairs. But for some reason the timing belt change makes me nervous.

So I'll be reading this forum for steps in the process and running through the timing belt, water pump job procedure step by step on paper before I do the job when the R.L. hits 100k.

Reading encouraging comments like the one from Vacar1 is very helpful (along with educating myself on the process) in getting me over the mental hurdle of this job.
 

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Did mine at 123K, along with radiator, hoses thermostat & serpentine belt. As mentioned before, the parts looked almost new. I believe 105K is very conservative if the vehicle isn't abused.

YouTube videos are very helpful.

Best kit I found (other than direct from Honda) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008EEYTRE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Get the Lisle 19mm socket https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RGNCV1U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Crankshaft holding tool Amazon.com: BETOOLL 50mm Crankshaft Crank Pulley Wrench Holder Tool Removal Holding Spanner kit for Honda and Acura Engines: Automotive

Have a GOOD impact wrench. My old 1/2" Craftsman wouldn't budge the crank bolt. Borrowed a newer MAC Tools 1/2" impact and it was off in seconds.

Don't rush the job and think everything through.
 

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Jakeman, can you provide links to the other parts you replaced , radiator, serpentine etc? I just bought a 2007 Ridgeline with 159,000. Previous owner never changed timing belt...
 
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