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Discussion Starter #1
I have read through all pertinent posts in this catagory, but I thought I'd start a new one for my upgrade in case anyone can benefit from it in the future.

I have an RTL-S/R that I will be upgrading the audio system to an audio/video/nav system.

I have settled on the Pioneer AVIC-Z1 as the centerpiece. I already have the speakers from my last vehicle (MB Quart Q - front, MB Quart QSD - rear). I know I'll need the adapters for them. I am going to sell off my old school amps (RF 400.4, RF 200.a2) for something more modern and that will fit behind the rear seat. I do not want components under the front seats. I will also need a sub, that must fit under the rear seat. Ideally, I'd like something that will not take all of the space, but if it has to, I'll go with it. I also like the idea of rear headrest monitors, and will add them if I can afford it. I have always been a big Dynamat fan, but would use another product if it was better or a better value. I am not afraid to rip the vehicle apart.

Some questions which are causing further research:

1) Should I use one or two amps, one for the door speakers, one for the sub, or should I go with a 5 or 6 channel amp? Can two amps fit behind the rear seat?

2) If I power the Quarts with 75W/ch or so, how much power should I have for the sub? What size drivers and how many of them would work best? I'm more of an SQ guy than an SPL guy.

3) Does anyone still use outboard EQ's and crossovers anymore, or can all of this be done well enough inside the Z1?

4) Does the Pioneer Bluetooth adapter work well?

5) Does the aftermarket steering wheel control unit work well?

6) Has anyone reused the XM antenna with a Sirius tuner in a Ridgeline?

7) What are my options for GPS sensor placement? I like the idea of using the dash tweeter area. Is this good enough?

8) Any suggestions for a rear camera? I can always use the Honda part.

TIA for any help.

Chris
 

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In my past experience, if possible you are better off to go with seperate amps for subs and mids/highs. I always felt that the if you are using one amp then the sub could put strain on amp and mids/highs may not be as clear. That's just my .02 worth. However I did do a system with one two channel amp, the Orion 225 HCCA. It's a high current competition amp capable of stereo/mono simutaneaously and it was great. I later added another one and ran one for subs and one for mids/highs and liked it better. If you decide to go with a single amp, the equipment you are using and the new stuff out there is nice enough, unless you are competing or something like that, I think you will be more than satisfied.
 

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I only answered what I know or think within the quote...

shovelhd said:
3) Does anyone still use outboard EQ's and crossovers anymore, or can all of this be done well enough inside the Z1?
Z1 has a built in full spectrum EQ. A few presets and a couple fully user custom settings. If you want more or desire 5.1 surround, you will need an aux unit.... link below
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069679_35804,00.html

4) Does the Pioneer Bluetooth adapter work well?
I like it, however most people on the other end seem to complain about there own voice feedback.. it helps if you turn down the volume. not the best unit, but it is cool to pick from the Nav database & dial any number in the system :)

5) Does the aftermarket steering wheel control unit work well?
It does work. not instant like the factory settings, I didnt care for at first, but now I like!

7) What are my options for GPS sensor placement? I like the idea of using the dash tweeter area. Is this good enough?
Mine is in the dash tweeter spot... works great

8) Any suggestions for a rear camera? I can always use the Honda part.
I used OEM camera as I had it. works good, but heard the pioneer unit is a bit nicer


Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Excellent feedback. Thanks.

Assuming there's room for two amps behind the seat, what two amps would you choose? I tend to be partial to the big MOSFET high current amps, but I'm open to suggestions. I'd be looking for about 100Wx4 and 400W sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Any feedback on the Diamond Audio HEX speakers? Silk tweeter or aluminum tweeter? I really liked the sound of them.

I'd like to go for the AVIC-Z1, but I may settle for the D2. It depends on whether I get laid off this week or not. The main reason I'd choose the Z1 over the D2 is for Bluetooth integration, and I hear the Pioneer adapter doesn't work that well for everyone.
 

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diamond hexs are awesome. I have them in my civic. I would go with the silk domes they sound very natural. Titanium tweeters are good to get real loud. Just depends. I will say though that one of my silk domes blew in the civic. Course they are getting almost 400 watts for the set... so.
 

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shovelhd said:
Assuming there's room for two amps behind the seat, what two amps would you choose? I tend to be partial to the big MOSFET high current amps, but I'm open to suggestions. I'd be looking for about 100Wx4 and 400W sub.
Chris, I have a very similar setup you are proposing. I have the AVIC Z1 with the PAC audio controls and MB Quart separates in the front and rear. I went with a Zapco 1000.4 situated behind the rear seat. It fits well. I had to modify some of the black covering to accomidate the amp but it works. I think you made a good choice on HU...like a previous poster has mentioned, make sure to reduce the volume if using the BT. If the volume is too loud, the callers will hear an echo.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the feedback, both of you. I'm back leaning towards the Z1, because the D2 cannot play DVD-Video discs inside the HU. I am also leaning towards the Diamond Audio HEX with silk tweeters. I really liked the MB Quart Q's I had in the Ranger, I'm just ready now for something a little less forward. I'm looking at the JBL Power Series amps. The Zapco amps are unbelieveable, though, modern old school.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As usual I changed my mind. I've sold off almost all of my old car audio equipment and have started accumulating the new stuff.

I went with the Kenwood DDX-6019/KNA-G510 HU/nav combo (known as the P-NAV6019) instead of the Z1. It just was a better fit for my needs and my budget. The Z1 is awesome, and the Z2 will be even better. CES sucks. :)

I added the Bluetooth adapter, TV tuner, Sirius adapter, and iPod adapter. I don;t yet know where I'm going to stuff all that stuff. Hopefully behind the front of the center console.

I also bought the PAC SWI-ALP steering wheel control adapter.

That's all I've purchased so far. This is what's on the plate for the next round.

Front/rear stage amp: Eclipse XA4000. I can get such a nice deal through a buddy at CC that I have to get this one.

Sub amp: Either the Eclipse DA7122 or something equivalent. What's most important is what will fit. the XA4000 is not small so the sub amp has to go on the right side (facing rear) behind the seat. I need a Class D 1000W+ amp at 2 or 1 ohm. I'm also looking at the Hifonics Brutus or the Alpine PDX-1000.1 because of their small size. The Alpine is pricey and may blow the budget.

Front comps: Diamond Audio HEX S600s. I love the sound.

Rear speakers: Diamond Audio 661s. A decent match, and they won;t be playing very loud anyway. Mostly just for fill when I've got a DVD on.

Subs: (2) Diamond Audio D610, dual 2 or 4 ohm depending on the amp. I like these because they have good SQ, like power, and are less than 6" deep.

Box: I think I'm going to go with that $100 on eBay and see how that sounds.

Input is welcome.
 

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shovelhd said:
The Z1 is awesome, and the Z2 will be even better. CES sucks. :)
Did you see the Z2 at CES? The AVIC forum seems to think there will not be a big difference between the Z1 and Z2. I've read that it is mostly a software upgrade. Someone that attended CES and spoke to a Pioneer rep said that Pioneer plans on selling the software upgrade for the Z1 so that it will behave like a Z2. I understand that at this early stage there will be many rumors running around. Here is a thread on the subject. Here is another link with a couple of geeks talking up the Z2. It biggest difference I see is you get more icons of POIs with the Z2...again this is all software related. I sure wish they improved the iPod interface; it appears that has not changed (the linked video shows the same iPod interface that is available today).
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I ordered up the dual 10" sub box from subthump. Steve is knowledgeable and easy to deal with. I went with the light grey carpet, just to be different, and I had him add some internal bracing.

I changed my mind on the door speakers, again. I could not find a set of Hexes at a reasonable price, and lo and behold a smoking deal on a set of Rainbow CDT245's came my way, so I went with them. They are similar to the Hexes, but handle a little less power, and are about $50 less.

For the rears, I may stick with the SQ format and just use the midbass drivers. I have a nice set of MB Quart QSB 160's sitting on my shelf. I'll try that first, and I can always add the xovers and tweets later. I have those too.

I also ordered all of the install parts. I went with the Scosche dash kit, and I ordered some of the SEM paint to match. I have a nice set of Krystal 6m interconnects on the shelf. I will run two 4G runs from the engine room.

All that's left to get are the amps and incidentals.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
These guys showed up today, Rainbow 265SLC front stage.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Here are some shots of my Subthump box.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here's a few more.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Welcome, Steve.
 

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Some shots of the loaded sub cabinet. No, I wasn't thinking isobarik. :)

The drivers are 10" Diamond Audio D6, 4 ohm DVC, 500WRMS each.

I cut the carpet using the driver as a template, with the seal off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is the start of the power wiring, two 4GA runs to behind the rear seat. I slit the main grommet in back of the master cylinder to pass the wire through.

The emergency brake has sharp edges, so I used 1" loom and routed the wires away from them.

I had to notch the kick panel for the wire. later, I had to remove the loom under the sill plate because there was no way it was going back on without it. I'll route out the insides with a Dremel for the remaining sill plates.
 

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