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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So.. I tried to send this in a private message to someone who had asked me a question. The picture doesn't work in PM's.. so I'm posting it here. Maybe others have run into the same problem as me and are looking for an idea.

Okay. Here is what I did to make life WAY easier in the future.

1. I opened up the oil drain hole big time... it wasn't even near enough. I made it open more front to rear because as it is from factory, when you are draining your oil and it slows down to a trickle, the oil lands on TOP of the skid plate and runs all over up inside there. (Ask me how I know!.. I had to remove and clean up all the mess). I took the opening to front about 1.5 inches longer. Then I opened the hole up into a "T" shape so I could actually move the wrench back and forth to loosen and replace the drain bolt.

2. I opened up the transfer case drain hole from front to rear because the drain didn't actually line up correctly with the hole. Would run into same problem as above when I changed it. I took that opening about another 1.5 inches toward the rear of the plate.

I used a 1/2" drill bit and drilled the corners of the outlines I drew with a sharpie marker. Then just used a skill saw with a metal cutting blade and cut out my pattern. Then took a fine gounding bit on my drill and smoothed everything out.

It sounds like a lot of work, but it's easy due to working with Aluminum. It will save you a LOT of frustration down the road (or whoever does the work for you) when it is fluid changing time.
Good luck!
401409
 

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Thanks for posting. Hopefully others will find this good information as well. Looking forward to getting my skid plate mounted up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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So.. I tried to send this in a private message to someone who had asked me a question. The picture doesn't work in PM's.. so I'm posting it here. Maybe others have run into the same problem as me and are looking for an idea.

Okay. Here is what I did to make life WAY easier in the future.

1. I opened up the oil drain hole big time... it wasn't even near enough. I made it open more front to rear because as it is from factory, when you are draining your oil and it slows down to a trickle, the oil lands on TOP of the skid plate and runs all over up inside there. (Ask me how I know!.. I had to remove and clean up all the mess). I took the opening to front about 1.5 inches longer. Then I opened the hole up into a "T" shape so I could actually move the wrench back and forth to loosen and replace the drain bolt.

2. I opened up the transfer case drain hole from front to rear because the drain didn't actually line up correctly with the hole. Would run into same problem as above when I changed it. I took that opening about another 1.5 inches toward the rear of the plate.

I used a 1/2" drill bit and drilled the corners of the outlines I drew with a sharpie marker. Then just used a skill saw with a metal cutting blade and cut out my pattern. Then took a fine gounding bit on my drill and smoothed everything out.

It sounds like a lot of work, but it's easy due to working with Aluminum. It will save you a LOT of frustration down the road (or whoever does the work for you) when it is fluid changing time.
Good luck!
View attachment 401409
you might want to send these modifications to @Venphic. He created the aluminum one and could possibly incorporate your mods into the existing skid plate. I could also see the installation of a cover over each hole that was screwed in place, like you did. Only engraving the covers with “Oil Drain”, Transfer case” and Transmission fluid”. Just a thought! Might be taking installing covers way too far, but a few small screws to remove, is easier than removing the entire skid plate! maybe I’m trying to idiot proof it, but no matter what you do, they will make better idiots!? nice job! On the modification of the skid plate.
 

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you might want to send these modifications to @Venphic. He created the aluminum one and could possibly incorporate your mods into the existing skid plate. I could also see the installation of a cover over each hole that was screwed in place, like you did. Only engraving the covers with “Oil Drain”, Transfer case” and Transmission fluid”. Just a thought! Might be taking installing covers way too far, but a few small screws to remove, is easier than removing the entire skid plate! maybe I’m trying to idiot proof it, but no matter what you do, they will make better idiots!? nice job! On the modification of the skid plate.
News to me! Glad to see you make the changes you want. I like the hatch idea but it'll cost you. lol

I wanted to make it possible to do the fluids but maintain as much coverage as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
News to me! Glad to see you make the changes you want. I like the hatch idea but it'll cost you. lol

I wanted to make it possible to do the fluids but maintain as much coverage as possible.
Hey Ian. Don't get the wrong idea about my modifications to your skid plate... You have the best plate on the market! :) I just made the changes I needed for MY personal use. :)
Now.... PLEASE get your rear skid plate onto your website! (And then get some rock sliders going on) (y)
 
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Hey Ian. Don't get the wrong idea about my modifications to your skid plate... You have the best plate on the market! :)
The comment I heard from the dealer yesterday was how heavy duty and well made this skid plate is, I agree! (y)

Bill
 

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News to me! Glad to see you make the changes you want. I like the hatch idea but it'll cost you. lol
I wanted to make it possible to do the fluids but maintain as much coverage as possible.
Have you given any thought to accessible front tow hooks that don't compromise GC or AoA? The ones on the Rebelle Rally RL look very functional but may require bumper removal to install.
 

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Have you given any thought to accessible front tow hooks that don't compromise GC or AoA? The ones on the Rebelle Rally RL look very functional but may require bumper removal to install.
The problem is that there's not a lot in the front that has enough meat to work without pulling the bumper. I could make a low profile cross bar with d ring mounts that uses the front hitch points. I figured people wouldn't be to crazy about that. Pulling the bumper gives you access to enough stuff I'd feel comfortable being pulled out.

I've been looking at making plates like what's on the the rebel rally rl but wasn't sure if guys would be willing to cut there bumpers. That's a sold point I'd be willing to pull from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The problem is that there's not a lot in the front that has enough meat to work without pulling the bumper. I could make a low profile cross bar with d ring mounts that uses the front hitch points. I figured people wouldn't be to crazy about that. Pulling the bumper gives you access to enough stuff I'd feel comfortable being pulled out.

I've been looking at making plates like what's on the the rebel rally rl but wasn't sure if guys would be willing to cut there bumpers. That's a sold point I'd be willing to pull from.
Oh yes..... I have already been looking at where the attachment points are for the Rebel Rally RL. Boy howdy if someone could give us REAL front tow points that would be great. I'd cut a hole in my front bumper for it in a heartbeat.
 
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I hadn't thought too much about an aftermarket adaptation to allow for screw-in recovery eyebolts like Subaru and Toyota provide on the bumpers of their crossovers. Cutting a hole in the bumper cover to allow an eyebolt to be inserted when needed would be ideal. It might even be possible to use a Subaru or Toyota part, and there are plastic snap-in caps available to cover holes of many sizes when the tow points aren't needed. The challenge would be finding the appropriate mounting points. I think the Rebelle Rally team had the expertise to do it right, but the installation time and required bumper cutting may be a bit much for most RL owners to tackle.
 

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I hadn't thought too much about an aftermarket adaptation to allow for screw-in recovery eyebolts like Subaru and Toyota provide on the bumpers of their crossovers. Cutting a hole in the bumper cover to allow an eyebolt to be inserted when needed would be ideal. It might even be possible to use a Subaru or Toyota part, and there are plastic snap-in caps available to cover holes of many sizes when the tow points aren't needed. The challenge would be finding the appropriate mounting points. I think the Rebelle Rally team had the expertise to do it right, but the installation time and required bumper cutting may be a bit much for most RL owners to tackle.
401761

I like the stealth cover idea with an eye bolt but you're still going to have to pull the front bumper to do the install. Either way you do it you're adding structure because there really isn't a lot of solid metal up front to pull from.
 

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View attachment 401761
I like the stealth cover idea with an eye bolt but you're still going to have to pull the front bumper to do the install. Either way you do it you're adding structure because there really isn't a lot of solid metal up front to pull from.
If you could tie in to the blue frame (see attached) behind the orange "bumper", that might be the most ideal location. One on each side, then a yoke harness to distribute the load to each point would minimize any chance of tweaking the frame.
 

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If you could tie in to the blue frame (see attached) behind the orange "bumper", that might be the most ideal location. One on each side, then a yoke harness to distribute the load to each point would minimize any chance of tweaking the frame.
Great information in there. I think the biggest thing will be figuring out how many people are willing to do it if the parts existed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you could tie in to the blue frame (see attached) behind the orange "bumper", that might be the most ideal location. One on each side, then a yoke harness to distribute the load to each point would minimize any chance of tweaking the frame.
It looks like you could pull the whole "orange" aluminum piece out of the frame horn and simply replace it with a whole new bumper.... a winch bumper of course, with built in mounts for the factory fog lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If that's the simple part, what's the hard part?
Well.... Like CentexG2 said, the solution is simple, it's execution that gets hard! :) It is, however, WAY easier to just pull a factory bumper completely off and replace the whole thing with another bumper than it is to try to modify something to "fit in" with the factory bumper. Hope that makes sense.
 
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