[Gemineye]

Hey guys, I've been through this forum for a lot things and like to put out a thanx to everyone who contributes. I feel its my time to do the same so here we go.

First off, this is an awesome vehicle. I couldn't be more happier with my purchase. The only down side is the crappy audio system. I've bobbed and weaved through a ton of threads searching for how to's, gear advice and everything in between. One thing I couldn't find is boosting the stock head unit easily.

I wanted to upgrade my system without breaking the bank and keep my stock NAV/stereo in tact. I found a solution I'm quite pleased with. Here's a break down.

QTY
4 - Polk Audio DB651s Slim-Mount 6.5-Inch Coaxial Speakers
2 - Polk Audio DB1001 1-Inch Silk/Polymer Composite Dome Tweeters
4 - Scosche SAHR6 2006-Up Honda Ridgeline Speaker Adapter
4 - Metra 72-7800 Speaker Connector Harnesses for Select Honda Vehicles
1 - Alpine KTP-445U (45Wx4 channel amp @ 4 Ohms or can be bridged [email protected])

The speakers make a difference in clarity especially the tweeters. The door speakers are under powered with the stock head unit. Remember, Ridgelines have NO amp. (180watt system Honda claims, yeah right!) My answer to this was a small Alpine 4ch x 45W power pak amp that runs speaker level input and tucks away behind your head unit. Wow, what a difference. The Polks really come life! The sub is not effected. It still runs off the deck like before. This amp and runs cool and is pretty easy to install (read instructions, there are certain settings you will need) Very happy with gear combination. Total cost about $450.


The next project is adding a 10" sub and box in place of the stock sub behind the seat. A D class amp with remote bass control to power it. Here's what I've got my eye on:

- Hertz Energy 10" Ultra Flat 250Watt/500Watt Peak Subwoofer (ESF255V) Low profile sub, only 3.25" mounting depth and about 1cu ft of space needed. About $200

- Pioneer 500W RMS Class D Mono Amplifier (GMD8601) with remote bass control. About $250

Keep you posted,


Cheers

Wiring Diagram found here: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=488641&postcount=2

 

[Heli ATP]

How did you hook the Alpine KTP-445U Amp to the HU. Any Pics?

 

[beatle]

I love that little amp. I had one in my Tacoma with an Alpine head unit. Even with the improved amp in the head unit over stock, the KTP still provided a noticeable boost in SQ. I have a similar Clarion XC1410 which is 50x4 running in the RL. It's great as well.

Not sure if the OP cut and spliced the wires in the factory harness, but these units take high or low level inputs. For best performance you should run a wire to the battery, but in most cases you can get away without them.

If you have an Alpine head unit, the non-universal KTP-445a simply plugs in line with your head unit with no additional wiring needed.

 

[Gemineye]

That Clarion looks like a little rocker too. I tapped 12V power off the stock unit to run the amp. Already has the 15A fuse integrated. I did think about running direct to battery, wasn't sure there is any true advantage though. The instructions give both options, i went for the lazy man one.

 

[Carsmak]

Would love to see some pics, sounds like a great/easy setup

 

[beatle]

Advantage/need for running a direct wire would be less voltage drop during heavy use. It may work, but at a slightly lower voltage which would ultimately reduce the power the amp can provide. On some vehicles the circuit for the stereo may not be able to handle the additional load. You've found that not to be the case on the RL, however.

I was planning to run a wire for the sub anyway so doing one for the amp was not really a big deal.

 

[Heli ATP]

Thanks for adding pics. This may be in my future now that you have shown us how.
Great step by step :act006:

 

[Carsmak]

This is now on my to do list for this year, thanks the pictures explain a lot.

 

[lagerboy]

Gemineye, wow is right. Great "how to" write up by the way. So I went ahead and did the dash tweeters and Alpine KTP 445U amp install. The sound improved drastically. I'm no expert in the stereo or music world but I do know this combo works. I've got a pair of 6.5 Kickers on the way for either the front or back doors. Haven't decided which yet. Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards the back doors. Sound is a little muffled back there. The volume level went from typically 8-25, depending on source, before these additions. Now it's anywhere from 3-9 with way more bass and clarity.
$140-amp
$115-door speakers
$60 tweeters
Well worth it in my opinion.

 

[beatle]

I recommend the front. That's where you sit. Some people choose to not even run back speakers.

 

[lagerboy]

Thanks beatle. I'll end up doing all four eventually.

 

[e_piph_a_ny]

I recommend the front. That's where you sit. Some people choose to not even run back speakers.

Ditto on that sentiment.

I disconnected the back speakers so I could power the OEM subwoofer thru my Pioneer HU. Don't even miss them.

 

[Heli ATP]

Is there a plug in adapter that could be used with one of these small amps, that would fit inline with the OEM receiver wiring without having to cut/splice the wires?

I bought this Kicker amp some time ago thinking I could use it to keep the stock sub with an aftermarket HU in my 2011. Just sitting in a box now. Any ideas what it would be good for with the stock setup in a '14?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-sing...Car_Amplifiers&hash=item2a1870fe56&rmvSB=true

 

[cofetym]

These are my favorite and a must if you don't want to solder. They are not cheap but worth every penny.

 

[Carsmak]

Is there a plug in adapter that could be used with one of these small amps, that would fit inline with the OEM receiver wiring without having to cut/splice the wires?

I bought this Kicker amp some time ago thinking I could use it to keep the stock sub with an aftermarket HU in my 2011. Just sitting in a box now. Any ideas what it would be good for with the stock setup in a '14?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kicker-sing...Car_Amplifiers&hash=item2a1870fe56&rmvSB=true

Heli, the guys over at FitFreak are doing something similar, I'm unsure if the parts would be the same, here is a starting point.

http://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...ry-wires-installation-amplifier-speakers.html

 

[KSPhoto]

One more endorsement for the Alpine 445U. I didn't install it myself, but I'm pretty sure that it is powering my upgraded front door coaxial speakers and Infinity tweeters, while my Pioneer CarPlay headunit powers my original back door speakers and factory subwoofer. Sounds great and didn't cost much to add.

 

[Heli ATP]

Heli, the guys over at FitFreak are doing something similar, I'm unsure if the parts would be the same, here is a starting point.[/url]

Thanks Carsmak, That helps.
I added the BT45-Hon in the back for Bluetooth and it was plug n play. I don't mind the soldering just wondering if there might be an easier option for adding the amp where it would be easier to return to stock down the road.

Found this online for someone who used a Metra harness to add an amp to a Honda. Read the included customer review.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12585_Metra-71-1722.html

How about these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Add-An-Amp-...ry-Radio-/120995148355?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-Rad...Kit-/221024673067?hash=item337618dd2b&vxp=mtr

 

[Gemineye]

Gemineye, wow is right. Great "how to" write up by the way. So I went ahead and did the dash tweeters and Alpine KTP 445U amp install. The sound improved drastically. I'm no expert in the stereo or music world but I do know this combo works. I've got a pair of 6.5 Kickers on the way for either the front or back doors. Haven't decided which yet. Any suggestions? I'm leaning towards the back doors. Sound is a little muffled back there. The volume level went from typically 8-25, depending on source, before these additions. Now it's anywhere from 3-9 with way more bass and clarity.
$140-amp
$115-door speakers
$60 tweeters
Well worth it in my opinion.

Good to hear! If your only doing the one pair I would do the fronts. This would be great time to add some LED lights since you're taking the door panels off anyways. The LED conversion kit is well worth it. Especially the cargo and trunk area. Truck looks modern. (pic doesn't do it justice)

 

[Carsmak]

Thanks Carsmak, That helps.
I added the BT45-Hon in the back for Bluetooth and it was plug n play. I don't mind the soldering just wondering if there might be an easier option for adding the amp where it would be easier to return to stock down the road.

Found this online for someone who used a Metra harness to add an amp to a Honda. Read the included customer review.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12585_Metra-71-1722.html

This part would work, and is the same part here on Amazon.

The Metra 71-1722 would plug into the back of your Factory Head Unit, specific wires for the speakers would run to the Amp for "Line In" by solder/crimp, others would bypass around the amp. After the amp "Line Out" the wires would solder/crimp into the Metra 70-1721, which would plug into the factory harness.

Since your only considering sending mono amp from your Kicker and would be feeding it from an aftermarket HU, you could just use the Metra 70-1721 to tie back into the Factory wiring, for the HU amp to power the door speakers although not sure if additional power would be required for the dash tweeters.


But then you would use the aftermarket HU line out to Amp Line in, on the output side you can send the mono signal back int the Metra 70-1721 also. Found here on Amazon.

If someone has a wiring diagram I could cut it up and draw in the additions, sorry but I'd search for one but it's been a long day.


At a glance the first one says it doesn't work/apply for your RL or mine. The second one would work, but not for your intended aftermarket HU, and I believe it only supplies a Line out to send to an amp from the factory HU for adding an Amp & Sub if I'm reading this correctly.

How about these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Add-An-Amp-...ry-Radio-/120995148355?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Factory-Rad...Kit-/221024673067?hash=item337618dd2b&vxp=mtr

 

[lagerboy]

Good to hear! If your only doing the one pair I would do the fronts. This would be great time to add some LED lights since you're taking the door panels off anyways. The LED conversion kit is well worth it. Especially the cargo and trunk area. Truck looks modern. (pic doesn't do it justice)

Thanks Gemineye. Just got the speakers in the mail. Hefty little buggers. Should improve sound a lot.