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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey i just saw this video

Contemplating buying a 2013 Ridgeline RTL for $16k. 101k miles.

Do you think this video is a legit fix ??

 

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Bypassing the ATF heating exchanger in the radiator increases the time it takes for the transmission to warm up when it's cold and reduces the cooling capacity of the transmission if it overheats.

Do the right thing by proactively replacing the radiator rather than changing the fundamental design of the system.
 

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2006 Ridgeline w/ 148K miles
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Thats not a very bright thing to do.. keep it the way the engineers designed it. In my opinion, its usually the bean counters that are to blame for just about anything.
 

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He’s not even correct as to why it happens. Classic example of “just because something can be done doesn’t mean it should be done.” If that concerned about it, buy one of the redesigned radiators.
 
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In my experience 2009 and above do not have SMOD issues. Change fluids, drive and enjoy it.
 

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Not to mention, if you live in a place with colder climate, and you bypass the rad, then you can't get your transmission fluid up to temperature early when driving. Could hurt the life of the trans.
 

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Absolutely!
 

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2007 RTL
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I went the new radiator route. Truck already had >200K miles on it and came with extensive service records - none of which indicated a radiator replacement. This might work. It might also create other problems. If you're a DIY'er, a radiator replacement isn't terrible. If you hire it done, it's probably a $500-700 job depending on the shop rate and parts markup.
 

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Does anybody know how warm/hot the cold radiator tank (where the tranny cooler is located) gets in cold ambient temps?;) What does TFT need to be?;)

I would think if the TF line connections at the bottom of the radiator appeared rust/corrosion free, the cooling system had been regularly/properly maintained, SMOD would probably be a non-issue. 🤷‍♂️

That video is stump dumb.
 

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It is my understanding that the failure eventually occurs due to galvanic corrosion that results from the dissimilar metals used in the fitting being immersed in the an electrolyte (the coolant mixture). It corrodes from the inside out no matter what you do. Certain conditions may accelerate failure, but I don't believe it can be avoided.
 

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I don’t recall seeing a SMOD thread with rust/corrosion free connector pics......the pics I recall seeing have always been of terribly rusted/corroded connectors, but I’m still a newbie, could have missed the rust free pics. I’m still leaning toward poor cooling system maintenance (corrosion inhibitors getting weak/non-existant) causing internal corrosion.

Getting back to the OP....”Do you think this video is a legit fix ??”....what are we trying to fix?.....and what TFT fixes what?
 

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It is my understanding that the failure eventually occurs due to galvanic corrosion that results from the dissimilar metals used in the fitting being immersed in the an electrolyte (the coolant mixture). It corrodes from the inside out no matter what you do. Certain conditions may accelerate failure, but I don't believe it can be avoided.
The SMOD issue was limited to the early Gen1 '06-'08 and then fixed. I can personally attest that as my''09 that saw a LOT of salt in the Toronto GTA had zero issues. I replaced my OEM radiator less than 2 months ago and there was zero corrosion inside the fittings. The truck had one Honda brand coolant change at 120,000km with timing belt and water pump.
 

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2014 Sport
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The SMOD issue was limited to the early Gen1 '06-'08 and then fixed. I can personally attest that as my''09 that saw a LOT of salt in the Toronto GTA had zero issues. I replaced my OEM radiator less than 2 months ago and there was zero corrosion inside the fittings. The truck had one Honda brand coolant change at 120,000km with timing belt and water pump.
I'll probably change my 14's radiator by the 10 year mark (I doubt I will hit the 105kish mileage interval for the timing belt before then) so I won't be able to add personal evidence to your assertion for a few more years . . .The fitting design certainly appears to be the same yet we haven't seen a report in this forum of a SMOD incident on a 2009-2014 Ridgeline. . .

Do you still have the original radiator and if so can you take some pictures of the disassembled fittings?
 

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Is the radiator a wear item?
 

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I'll probably change my 14's radiator by the 10 year mark (I doubt I will hit the 105kish mileage interval for the timing belt before then) so I won't be able to add personal evidence to your assertion for a few more years . . .The fitting design certainly appears to be the same yet we haven't seen a report in this forum of a SMOD incident on a 2009-2014 Ridgeline. . .

Do you still have the original radiator and if so can you take some pictures of the disassembled fittings?
Unfortunately I do not still have it. I should have taken pictures but I've seen many references to it only happening to 06-08.

Cheers!
 

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Is the radiator a wear item?
I mean, kinda? If only because the front side of it gets beat to death from road debris its whole life.

Plus, unless you're religious about coolant flushes (and have you ever met anyone who is?), eventually the fluids have got to start wearing on its internal surfaces.
 

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The A/C condenser is in front of the radiator providing almost total protection to the radiator from debris.....bugs, gravel, etc.

I would not say I was religious/obsessive regarding maintenance......I just follow the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual of whatever vehicle. 🤷‍♂️

In cold weather, what is the correct TFT that will yield long tranny life????
 

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My family/ friends and I have never had issues with any Honda radiator up to a million KM(~600,000mi). All where changed according to the maintenance schedule with either Honda Coolant or another silica free brand.

But the A/C condenser does get pretty beat up from rock strikes. I've only had one of those fall when a 90cm(3 foot) piece of rebar punched into one on the freeway.. it even held charge until I next turned it on so it had gone 90% or more through as I couldn't figure out what the sound was and kept driving for another 10 minutes.
 

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Does anybody know how warm/hot the cold radiator tank (where the tranny cooler is located) gets in cold ambient temps?;) What does TFT need to be?;)

I would think if the TF line connections at the bottom of the radiator appeared rust/corrosion free, the cooling system had been regularly/properly maintained, SMOD would probably be a non-issue. 🤷‍♂️

That video is stump dumb.
Typical ATF temperature is recommended to be between 160F and 200F, depending on the system's design requirements. I have seen my ATF temps anywhere between 140F to 195F, in the G1.

The video is 'stump dumb'. :)


Is the radiator a wear item?
It is considered to be. The heat cycle does wear that exchanger out.

In cold weather, what is the correct TFT that will yield long tranny life????
The system is designed with same operating parameters, despite the outside temp. Technically, your coolant temp, oil temp, and ATF temp is not changed much, as they are directly dependent on the combustion within the cylinders and they are not changing much. Even though other items such as fuel and ignition timing, are affected by the IAT on typical use.
 
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