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Discussion Starter #1
Here's the solution - see attached pics (I posted also in the Tailgate warning indicator thread)

Interlock switch on tailgate indicates when opened (swing from the side)... it is not supposed to indicate if tailgate is down.

What happens is the when the tailgate is down, sometimes the weight of the tailgate pulls slightly on the actuator and the interlock does not make good contact.

If your RL has the bed lights you can test this by pushing down on the tailgate and see the lights flicker on and off.





I added a spacer to the actuator so it would push in the switch more to make better contact and eliminate the play.





I will replace the cork spacer with a nylon one as below to last longer as the cork will reform over time...



Hope this helps! :grin:

-Eric
 
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2014 Sport
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Is there no way to adjust the actuator to more firmly contact the switch?

The issue I see with both the products that your are using is that I don't think that they will hold up for any length of time. I use those vinyl bumpers on kitchen cabinet doors and they work ok for that application but do tend to "squirm" around a bit as time passes. I doubt the self adhesive will behave well in outdoor conditions and particularly with heat and frequent pressure. Perhaps you would be better off with an aluminum "button" of some sort that you glue on with an epoxy?
 

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On the side view of the actuator it looks like there may be 2 thin stacked metal plates at the base. If true you could probably buy a couple more and achieve the same extension as you have with cork.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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LOL, my G1 had to have the switch shimmed to solve this issue and Honda still has the SAME issue after 12 years!!!
 

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2017 Ridgeline RTL-E, Northeast U.S.
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As a belated follow up, I've done the shim adjustment a few times. My 2017 was perfect but my 2020 has needed 2 adjustments of one shim each.

My first shim was a leftover from my G1 but for the second I did splurge and buy two (Lia Parts is $1.23 each - local pick up).

Note that G1s were super easy because when you removed the screws, you had extra harness wire to disconnect it outside the switch opening.

G2s don't provide this extra wire length and you need to disconnect the harness by reaching from under the truck near the muffler...plus the plug to release is secured with clip. Not hard but a light and some patience are helpful.

Basically, if your bed lights even briefly blink when lowering in 'traditional pick up mode' you need to add 1-2 shims.

A 10 minute job at most. My truck is well under warranty at 5,600 miles but I'd much rather spend $2.50 and 10 mins versus an hour sitting in the dealer's well appointed waiting room.
 

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Just has this fix done at the dealer today on my 2020. They added 2 more shims (for a total of 4 shims) to fix what I had temporarily fixed with three layer of duct tape on the striker fitting. Took about 40 minutes for them to do it. The service writer noted that it cost more to ship the parts for the fix than the parts themselves cost.
 

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Just has this fix done at the dealer today on my 2020. They added 2 more shims (for a total of 4 shims) to fix what I had temporarily fixed with three layer of duct tape on the striker fitting. Took about 40 minutes for them to do it. The service writer noted that it cost more to ship the parts for the fix than the parts themselves cost.
These shims are good to have on hand although once you've made the adjustment (early in the truck's life) that should be it.

I assume they use a set amount of shims at manufacture (think it is 6-7) and in theory, it should be close.

However, once the tailgate starts being used, even a millimeter of difference will cause the issue.

My neighbors 2020 BE is worse than my 2020 RTL-E and I offered to do the shim adjustment (2-3 shims). They are going to have the dealer do it at the first oil change (something I don't ever have a dealer do unless I have a free one).
 
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